Ford Excursion :: Beeps Continuously For First Ten Minutes Of Driving / Error Codes P0674 / P0475 / P0381
Aug 2, 2017
Error codes -
P0674 - Glow Plug N0. 4 Circuit Malfunction
P0475 - Exhaust Backpressure Control Valve Malfunction
P0381 - Glow Plug Indicator Circuit Malfunction
how to fix?
I get these beeps continuously for the first ten minutes of driving.
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I had new glow plugs installed 3 weeks ago. Ran fine since. Today, first cold day. No start, oil pressure gauge does not move off zero, interceptor reads ICP 126. Oil level is good. WTS light does come on. Checked fuse 19 as I saw on another thread, it is good.
P1670 and 0381. My ford software is down, trying to reinstall. As soon as it is reinstalled, I can go thru the step process?
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I went and got my truck smog and it failed because of this code. I then changed the sensor cleaned out the tube and I still can't figure out how to get rid of the error code?
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0 power stroke. I had a crank no start when hot issue. I bought an obd scanner with the torque app. IPR was at 85%. ICP pressure was low. I got the IPR out and bought a new screen because it was clogged. Upon putting in I broke the injector female side plastic connection.I bought the injector connector piece and installed it. After putting everything back together it starts but runs very rough,low power. The IPR was fixed. ICP,ipr and ficm are at good levels now.
IPR=14.7%-30%
Fcim sync=1.0
Fcim voltage=48.5
ICP pressure (idle)650-850psi
My fault codes are:
P0672 (glowplug)
P0674 (glowplug)
P0678 (glowplug).
Why it would be running/idle rough?
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I have had my Prius for over a year and this has never happened to me before. Two days ago, about 3 minutes after starting driving, the display switched to a rectangle with BRAKING written in the middle with rapid beeps. This flashed very briefly on the display and nothing else happened. There was no one in front of me at a close distance and the cruise control was not engaged. I discarded it as a fluke.
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My '07 started making three very quite beeps while driving, happens about every 15 minutes. It sounds like it might be coming from under the passenger seat. Mileage on vehicle 168000.
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As title says, the EBP stays at 43psi key on running or not. MAP is at 13.7psi like it should be. tried a new sensor and also unplugged and no diff. Wiggled engine wiring harness and it never dropped. No tuner. Codes are P0472 and P0475. Truck runs very sluggish. 4.7v on EBP plug
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I have 2000 VW Passat. I had my car in shop shop to replace windshield washer nozzle. After picking up my car found out that car started to have electrical problems
- keyless entry does not work;
-When i turn on headlights, the alarm tone inside the car does not go off. I drive the car home with this noise inside the car.
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2004 Excursion 4x4 6.0. I just had the fuel injectors & wiring harness replaced and it runs great, but after 30 minutes of driving the complete dash lights/gauges stopped working. I found that the #45 10amp fuse had blown so replaced it and after 20 minutes the same thing happened. While it was working all of the lights & gauges seemed to be working okay. This doesn't effect anything else, still starts & runs okay, turn signals work, head lights work, but the head light auto on/off doesn't.
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Need to diagnose a problem with my 2001 Prius. I was driving it on the highway when suddenly the hybrid system warning light and the main battery light, along with the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned off the car, and turned it back on. The main battery light error cleared but the Hybrid System warning light stayed on as did the check engine light.
I took my car into the dealership and they told me that the 12V battery was probably low at some point but that they didn't find any problems.
The error codes that came up were: C1215, C1241, C1259, C1521, C1522, C1558, and C1559.
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Had the two batteries disconnected on the 2002 Excursion (7.3). Once reconnected, the door actuators all repeatedly lock. They all click every 5 - 10 seconds. Sometimes they click every second for about 5 seconds.
I can't actuate ANY of the door locks on the truck, the switches seem dead. Also, the "door open" LED in the dash is lit. The "THEFT" light is blinking fast as well.
I've disconnected the batteries again several times to see if I can reset whatever is going on. I am keeping a spare key in my pocket because I will get locked out otherwise.
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I bought my 2002 Excursion 6.8L about 2yrs ago, no less than a week of having it I started to have all sorts of problems. (insert nagging wife here) the biggest of problems was the darn thing started to run very rough and the ABS light cont to flash, then the truck just died (engine stopped, EXTREMELY scary in a intersection) I replaced the VSS in the rear diff.. acted a little better for a while then..no luck. I called around to every ford dealer in town. I need more break light fluid to there isn't enough grease on my wobbler pin?
So I got the initiative to simplify what I was seeing and hearing. I found that there was an OSS sensor on the tail of the transmission...drove my very intense self up to the dealership and bought myself a new OSS sensor. I got home and replaced it, then I drove my truck under the largest shade tree I could find and replaced all the coils and spark plugs. (Insert bloody knuckles and curse words here) Job Done. I thought to myself if this doesn't fix it then I don't know what to do. (I couldn't sell it)...again the point being...the truck has never ran better, gas mileage has doubled and the true power of the v10 has been restored. I found 4 different types of spark plugs in it and 3 different types of coils...?
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What that is for?
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I'm having a very strange problem with my 2011 Prius.
About two and a half hours ago, I drove home and parked my Prius for the night. About an hour after I parked, my Prius started beeping, three short beeps, every couple of munutes. It's now been doing this for over 90 minutes. Because I can hear it from the house, it is very, very, very annoying.
I have checked all of the doors, and also took the car out for a quick spin around the block, in hopes of getting the beeping to stop. No luck. It keeps beep-beep-beeping every few minutes.
It has been unusually cold here the past couple of days, in case that has anything to do with it. That being said, it was a good 10-15 degrees colder yesterday, yet the car wasn't having this problem. It only started this evening.
My question is, what in the world could be causing this beeping? Is there any way to stop it?
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When driving have five beeps from dash. Is this a dash fault code or abs code. and where can I find info on them. need to get rid of. Changed out complete engine a month ago. Running great beside this beeps. Almost forgot 4.6 auto 2wd extended cab long bed red and silver.
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Why does my Volvo 850 (1994) continue to shut off? The fuel pump and filter have been changed as well as having the gas tank cleaned. Car runs good but occasionally shuts down while driving on highway and local driving.
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My 03 F250 6.0L Starts and Runs fine but will never illuminate the glow plug/ wait to start light? Scan tool test on GPRM and tells me everthing is OK. Cleared all codes, turn on key, no WTS light and throws P0381 DTC every time. What my problem is?
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The seat belt warning indicator is flashing continuously when I am driving with my seat belt fastened. When I pull outward, lengthening just the shoulder harness, the light stops flashing. Letting go of the shoulder strap starts the light flashing again. Is there a sensor near the floor where the shoulder strap take up roller winds and unwinds the strap?
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I have Camry 2002 LE which has 110000 miles on it. After last winter in Pittsburgh, first time I drove it for 200 miles continuously and all of sudden the engine started making very loud sound after 2-3 hrs drive and I had to pull it off.
When you give more gas, the sound increases even further. It is very load and unbearable. I called AAA and mechanic advised something wrong with engine and I cannot drive it anymore so have to tow it.
The sound is coming from engine and it is very very load. I will take it to mechanic tomorrow but what would have gone wrong. Is it the end of my car life?
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I have a 1996 Ford E-150 van that has a misfire. The plugs, wires, cap and rotor have been changed and I still have it. The error codes come up as cylinder 3. ( I was getting the same before I replaced everything.) Scanner also says lean on bank 1. It also says that the O2 sensor behind the cat is not doing much.
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Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors???
I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
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