Ford Excursion :: Barn Door Lock Stopped Locking And Unlocking With The Key
Jan 23, 2017
Renee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
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My driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
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I'm having a problem with my remote lock/alarm system in my 2010 Corolla LE. The driver door suddenly stopped locking and unlocking with the remote. The other 3 doors work fine, but the driver door won't work. When I lock the driver door with the key and press the lock button, everything locks and unlocks like normal. If I wait awhile and try to unlock the doors again, the driver door lock again won't work.
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Having problem with the rear door latching?the glass hatch closes ok it is just the barn door that wont latch. Is there a fix or do I have to replace the lock mechanism...
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The driver's side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher. I w-d40 the out of it and I'm gonna look at it again tomorrow in the light. Hopefully it was just stuck or gummed up. I don't want to take it in for something that seems like I should be able to do!
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The drivers side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher....
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I just recently purchased a 2000 Excursion and had some questions up in another thread. After doing some diagnosing....I have a couple of questions about the auto locking hubs. The problem I have is that even with the vacuum line disconnected from the knuckle and no vacuum...the hubs won't unlock in auto/2wd. I confirmed that the knuckle and the hubs will hold vacuum when I hooked my vacuum pump up to it and it held vacuum (the fitting should be clear as I heard the hub making some sounds). I'm getting ready to pull the hubs to clean and re-grease them. My question is that being they are still locked....will it be any harder to pull them off the spindle and after disassembling them/cleaning them.....when I re-install them....will they be unlocked by default after putting them back on the spline as they have been pulled apart and reassembled?
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My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
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My FOB is only unlocking my door. It's not locking doors. Thought it might be the FOB battery. I changed it and still no locking, just unlocking.
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I noticed that my key fob has stopped working for remote locking/unlocking. This was not fixed with a brand new battery, and I just noticed that the depressed "unlock" button seems go have lost its subtle click, so there may be a mechanical failure inside there.
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I have a 2000 ford windstar LX. When i drive it, the door chime sensor comes on and off randomly and door starts locking unlocking. Happens more often when the road is bumpy or when i brake hard.
Per the local dealer I changed all four door actuators (the front one had stopped working) . All four door actuators are brand new and working but the issue still exists.
What should be my next steps in troubleshooting? Is there a way to simply disconnect these door chime sensor?
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My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
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My wife said that her keys stopped locking/unlocking doors. I checked the keys and replaced the battery just to be sure. No change. Older keys also couldn't unlock/lock the car.
Both keys can start the car and has blinking red LED flushing when any buttons pushed. Is there a "Remote" button somewhere in a car to allow remote operation?
2007 RX400h 110k mi.
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I have a 2005 GLI which seems to have an issue with intermittent door locks. Sometimes when I press the unlock/lock button they will unlock/lock, other times they won't. It also seems to be random as to which doors will unlock/lock. Opening them from inside works just fine.
The dealer said that the door lock control modules probably need to be replaced. I remember seeing a while back that there was a way to fix these as the problem really was some solder within the control module.
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I'm slowly reading through the ES-350 manual, picking and choosing parts to read. There are several 'Personalized Preferences' that I've noted down and will have addressed at my 1st month service.
I noticed on pg. 21 of the manual that there are settings to set and cancel the door-locking/unlocking functions. These functions are also mentioned in the 'Personalized Preferences' section, so there is overlap here (on paper anyways).
Anyways I tried a couple of times to follow the instructions on pg. 21 to disable the door locking and unlocking when the car is placed in Park and Neutral.
It didn't work for me. The instructions aren't all that clear to me, nor of what they are supposed to accomplish. I'd like to not have the doors lock when I place the shift out of Park and not have the doors unlock when I place the shift into Park.
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My drivers door won't unlock and lock sometimes. It goes off and on. And it's starting to do it more often. Sometimes the beep won't make a sound too when I lock it. Only locks with manually putting the key in. I've tried to use my other key but it didn't work.
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2001 ford explorer sport trac. Power door locks lock from both sides but will not unlock from either side, have tried new switches and lookd for broken wires in all four door jams.
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Well, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
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I got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
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I instead rebuilt the factory trac-lock...well I need more lock....
In the slow crawling I do to get in and out of the camping/hunting/fishing spot with the wife and kids the trac lock just does not lock up well enough.
It I get on it and get it spinning then it will lock up enough but then I fear parts will break, I prefer to slow crawl.
I had my Bronco locked up with Detroit's but I cant do that here it is my DD
So I am back looking at lockable diffs.
I have used ARB and they work well but I came across this Eaton E-Locker. I only saw it for the rear though.
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The fob of my 2006 prius stopped unlocking the driver's door, it does unlock, however, all other doors. Also when locking the car all doors lock no problem, so the weird thing is the "unlocking of the driver door" that doesn't work unless I use the little key inside the fob. I already changed the battery in the fob and it is still doing the same thing.
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