Ford Excursion :: Back Hatch / Door / Windows / Glass Seal Leaking?
Jul 8, 2014
Okay here is the deal: My X has been leaking from the time that I purchased the thing almost 2 years ago, in the back intermittent at first and I have been trying to trace it. It's not the roof rack and not any hinges or goodies around the edge, top, door, trim, etc. So what is it! Well we finally got some rain here and I am pretty sure it's the actual glass seal!?!? What should I use to seal it If I pull all the nuts off the bolts does the glass pop out? I just don't want it to go "pop"
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I may not be searching correctly...? How the back inside trim is removed from the hatch window. I know the handle has the two Torx screws does the trim pull out or are there clips? Don't want to break any plastic parts. I found how to fix the back lock. I found the back barn door trim removal.
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Just picked up a 2005 and the hatch glass will not open. Tried everything that I have read on here and on ClubTouareg. It has to be the fuse or something. Pressing the button on the remote does nothing and neither does the switch on the driver's side door.
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2001 ford escape. cannot open back door and glass. there is no kep option, only auto and they are not working. checked fuses, all other doors working fine, I was hoping to move this weekend and need to get in the back door. Is there any safety latch? or possible child lock?
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I just had a heck of a day. I was using my weed whacker to clean up my front yard before the city got on my case- we got a bunch of rain so the desert is oddly very green. Anyway, I was working on the other side of my yard when I hear a sickening, loud pop sound. I turn off the trimmer and go to look at the Ex, thinking a rock somehow hit the door panel pretty hard. No damage. Weird, I think.
As I'm turning around, my eyes glance up to see... my driver's side rear door window in a million pieces being held together by the tint. Holy. Dang. My trimmer kicked up a rock which flew a good 25-30 feet and shattered my door glass.
So, I am planning on ordering a replacement glass online. I's it a very difficult job? I have done window glass before, but just in old trucks and cars- 1960 Falcon, 1969 F100, 1970 F500, 1976 Jaguar XJ-12. Never did a new truck.
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Well, the ac in my truck has been less than exciting since I've owned it and its time to address it before another trip.
I crawled under last night to explore the Ac clutch air gap and found that the shaft seal is leaking and clutch is grooved pretty bad and covered in oil.
I'm thinking it's time for a compressor, clutch, orifice tube, expansion valve and reciever/dryer. Does that about sum it up? I haven't messed with AC systems much outside of my simple jeep system that was as easy as two seals and recharge in my garage to fix it.
Do I need to flush the lines out? Should I do that at all? Motor craft worth the cost over something like four seasons? Its almost twice the cost but in the end if something goes I'm further downstream after freon etc to charge it and the possible shop charge if I pay to have to done.
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Had my 2003 7.3X for a couple months now. Noticed the back hatch will not lock. Hatch will not lock when you push the lock button on the door or the remote.
The second issue is that my ignition key (the only one I got with car) does not turn the lock on the hatch.
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I am getting ready to do the door seal mod and have all the materials but can't find the post with the instructions.
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2005 4wd excursion. I have a leaking rear seal on passenger side.
I have the hub assembly off. I'm down to the spindle. My old seal came out in pieces. There's either a piece of the old seal or another seal on the back of the spindle.
Are there two seals? This what looks like a seal still on the spindle against the plate on the back...
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I have a 2003 Excursion. I shut the back hatch the other day and the window completely shattered. I bought another one from the junk yard.
My husband replaced it and everything seems to fit right and it closes down and it looks nice. Problem is now the interior lights wont shut off at all.
Running board lights are on as well. We have had to un-hook the battery to keep it from running down. Is there a sensor or something that needs to be reset?
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While diagnosing an issue with my ebrakes I found the drivers rear axle seal was leaking coating the ebrakes in gear oil, replaced the seal. Decided to pull the differential fill plug and check to make sure it was full - drained a good bit out pulling the hub to replace the seal. To my horror this is what I find when I pull the plug. First photo is as it came out on the magnet - second is after a clean up. What is it? I am almost afraid to drop the cover....
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So this morning is just getting better and better. Was coming back in from getting the mail and noticed a small puddle under the passenger side tire/wheel area.
I never ever have a puddle of any sort in my drive way so...I start crawling around the truck and this is what I find. I can free spin the dust seal, but its all the fluid that has be worried. With less then 4 days till I have to haul everyone to the airport this is not what I need.
IF (man I feel stupid for asking) IF I leave it in 2 wheel drive how big of an issue would it be to drive it?
None of the parts will be in before I have to drive everyone out to the airport, this is the only reason I'm even considering this..
Plus would this explain a sudden lost of MPG?
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I need a new upper driver side door seal and the plastic driver side fog light bracket but can find part numbers for my 2005 Ex.
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So I got my VR6 Turbo Mk2 driving bout 3 weeks ago and parked the R. Its been raining pretty good the last few days and the Mk2 has proven to be more than a handful in my short drives in the wet so I took the R today...Turns out the drivers door seal is leaking on me when I am driving. I figure its probably tied to the wind noise problem, but Ive not seen it before given it rarely rains in Az and I don't think its rained since I got the car.
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My 2002 Santa Fe Back Hatch Door will not open. I have removed the inside panel & all the linkage seems to work OK. But the main latch will not let go & I cannot see where to trip it. How I can get it opened, just can't see where to trip it but believe it can be done from inside.
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My wife tried to close the hatchback door on our 2010 Prius I, something was in the way, she forced it and now I can't get the door to unlock. I tried the manual door release which is small metal lever on the lock assembly (as covered in the user manual); however, the lock won't release the striker. I've unbolted the lock assembly to see if the striker was jammed in the lock mechanism. I can now rock the lock assembly back and forth and I don't see any foreign objects in the locking mechanism, but still cannot open the lock. How to manually open the lock mechanism (is there somewhere I can apply pressure to force the mechanism to open and release the striker)? Again, the metal lever discussed in the user guide does not work.
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WHen i open the back hatch, the light does not come on when the switch is on door but if i flip it to on it works fine...
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My passenger and back door windows won't open with the use of their switches. I can open all three with the master control. I thought the master switch was bad and replaced it. The problem persists. Are these individual switches for the passenger and back doors in series, where one goes out and none work ?
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My wife's 2012 Pilot EX-L has developed an odd problem. Occasionally the front passenger door will fail to unlock when I use ether the door panel unlock button or the FOB. I figured it was a bad actuator and I was going to fix it next weekend, but today I noticed that when the issue happens the rear trunk also fails to unlock. It seems odd to me to have 2 different actuators go bad together, and really odd to have them both be intermittent and in sync. What else could this be?
I have noticed when it rain really hard water gets into the back door hatch through the screw holes for the license plate. That could be related, or it could be a red herring.
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I think the top AC line that runs from the back of the compressor is leaking on my '01. It looks straightforward to replace, but I don't have any way to evacuate or recover the R134a refrigerant. Is this something that an AC place has to fix, or is there a way to do this on my own?
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Having squeaks coming from their window seal between the glass and the seal? I mean, it can get really bad... I have to roll my windows down a touch and then it's a smooth, quiet ride. I was going to try and drag a small amount of some kind of lube around the seal soon.
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