Well just replaced most everything in the front axle. Hubs, vacuum seal, dust seal, inner seals and calipers. I also cleaned the autolock hubs. Fist time I used them they worked. I tried again today and no 4wd. I checked the vacuum lines and they are all intact. Not sure what to do next.
View 14 RepliesTrying to enable the auto lock feature so when I start driving the doors automatically all lock. I have the 5 digit code and followed Apoc's instructions of entering code, holding 7/8, pressing 3/4 and releasing 7/8. Did not work.
When I enter the code just on it's own it will unlock the door however when I enter the code just on it's own it will not lock the door. I do hear it doing something but just does not lock it. I also tried the ignition method. No luck there either. Horn never chirps. Tried it with the wipers on too just in case. Is there something wrong with the actuator possibly?
Someone mentioned that the '01 may not even have the feature.
2001 F-250 7.3. The auto lock hubs are not working on the truck lock hubs in and all works fine. First thought is the vacuum system has a leak or something of the sort. Had truck at the shop they are telling me the GEM module controls the vacuum to engage the auto hubs and the signal is not coming from the GEM and it need to be replaced. It was the GEM causing the problem.
View 6 RepliesWant to confirm if this is a malfunction or a normal behavior:
The Auto Door Lock function in my 2016 Elantra VP seems to be behaving oddly.
1) If I do not lock or forget to lock the doors using the remote or the door button after exiting the car, all 4 doors remain unlocked even after 24 hours. For security reasons, I expected that the doors should get auto-locked after some time when the vehicle key/remote has been out of the vehicle for a substantial amount of time. However, this is not happening to my surprise.
2) After driving a few miles when I have stopped the car and turned off the ignition, I sometimes find that the Passenger and Rear Doors have locked automatically by themselves whereas sometimes they remain all unlocked. I have not noticed any particular pattern when the Passenger/Rear doors are getting auto-locked by themselves and when they are not. It seems random to me.
Is it a malfunction in my car? The owner's manual does not specify anything in particular about such behavior.
The lock post (or whatever you call it) on the driver door stays up when all the other lock posts go down, either when the car is moving, or you lock with the remote. I first noticed this when it was wet outside a couple months back - then it became intermittent, now it's always. How to fix it?
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 toyota avalon. I just had the battery and alternator changed. Now my clock does not keep correct time (I believe this is only when the car is not running). Also my dome light will not work any longer. My car auto lock does does not lock on its own any more, and if I use the power locks and turn on the dome light, the car unlocks, but the dome light still does not come on. This all started about a week or two ago after installing the alternator.
View 7 RepliesFuse 29 was blown when I got my truck, automatic headlights and overdrive lock didn't work. I replaced the fuse, the lights came on and overdrive locked out but when I shifted into park the doors locked and the fuse blew. How the door locks are related and why they would lock when shifting to park?
View 2 RepliesJust bought a 2000 Excursion PSD 4X4 last week. So far, I have really enjoyed it. There is just something special about these beasts.
I have had trouble with the liftgate lock not working. I tore into the liftgate and found that the actuator works just fine...the lock mechanism is just a little stubborn. I have soaked it liberally with wd-40. There is a lot of dirt road dust in the liftgate body.
My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
About a year ago I put in a new lock motor and it worked fine for a while but has stopped working. Is it the lock motor or something else? It unlocks but won't lock. There is not latch indicator on the upper hatch so it stayed unlocked without me knowing it.
View 12 RepliesNew to the 4x4 6.0 just bought an 06' King Ranch 130K miles. My other truck is a 95' 7.3 non 4x4 now for sale. So the new to me 06' will not lock the hubs in Auto mode but will in Manual. I have good vacuum down to each wheel hub which is where my question is.
The vac port at either wheel I get 20-30hg however I believe this is only because something is plugged. If I pump up my vac tester to ~25hg right at the wheel port the needle doesn't move, holds vacuum, but does not Auto lock the hub. So I pulled out the Manual/Auto hub by removing the 3 torque screws thinking my vacuum should then go to 0 but it doesn't it stays right at ~25hg.
Before I bought the truck there was some work done to the front end. New ball-joints, Rt tie-rod and perhaps a few other things I haven't ID yet. Could my problem above be an axle seal or something else perhaps installed incorrectly causing the small vac hole going down inside the hub to be covered up or maybe plugged somehow? I believe to replace the ball joints the axle, hub and other parts have to be removed, correct?
After a lot of reading and troubleshooting, I have come to know that it takes vacuum to engage and vacuum to disengage the automatic locking hubs on the Ford F series and Excursion. Most indications is that ~ 15" hg is required to engage and approximately half that much to disengage them. The mechanism that either engages or disengages them acts similarly to a ball point pen. The full amount of vacuum causes the mechanism to travel to it's limit, where the hub is engaged, whereas half the amount of vacuum applied only causes the mechanism to travel to its midpoint, which is where is should be for disengagement.
In my case, I have tested for vacuum leaks, none are present. I have installed new Ford OEM hub assemblies, a new locking hub solenoid and have tested the function of my vacuum pump. It draws about 13.5" hg of vacuum on the system. I do not have any issues with HVAC controls in the cabin of the truck. When installing the new hubs, I ensured that they are unlocked, the inner spline assy spins freely and once installed, the wheel shaft spins freely by hand. When I shift to 4WD on the dash, the hubs engage and all is well.
Problem I am having is when I shift back to 2WD, the hubs remain locked. I can tell as the wheel shafts are not able to be spun freely by hand. I have tried backing the vehicle, etc. No luck. Furthermore, when monitoring vacuum while engaging and disengaging 4WD, I can see that the full vacuum (~13,5") is applied when engaging. What concerns me is that only 3.5 - 4.0" hg is applied when disengaging. This is certainly not enough to operate the mechanism to the point of disengaging the hubs.
I have considered replacing the vacuum pump as I am only getting 13.5" hg of vacuum, however, when I research the replacement part, many have indicated that a new one only draws about that much, so I do not see the value in replacement.
Have any of you dealt with the same or similar problem and if so, what was your resolution?
Was about to buy a headlight switch with the Foglights option...realized I miss the auto lamps.
Is there a write-up on how to add these? Looked in the tech folder and didn't see one
What parts are needed?
And the vacuum pump was replaced.
View 7 RepliesIs it possible to disable the auto lock feature after time-out? I am not referring to the auto locks after driving 15kph. I am referring to when you unlock the doors with the remote and then don't open any of the doors for a minute or two. If you do not "wake" the car by opening it, the doors automatically lock again.
This is my most hated feature. There will be times when I unlock the door from the house and walk out to the car to get something. If I don't open a door within 1 minute, its locked again. Now I just have to carry the key for the most trivial things. Is this a menu option or a vag option?
I just bought a used 2003 camry, it has I assume a stock alarm system (stock Toyota alarm fob), the alarm is set to auto lock after about 20 seconds after the door is shut (previous owner lived in NYC). How do I turn off the auto lock? I want the system to lock when I press the lock button on the fob (live in a very rural area and often leave the keys in the car).
View 1 RepliesMy 14' SE i4 locks when the trunk is left open for about a minute. To make things a little more confusing is that the car does not auto lock if the trunk is closed, I know this because when I get to work I never lock my doors. The first time the car locked with the trunk open I thought I must have accidentally hit the lock button on the key, but I have tested this with the key left in the house.
View 14 RepliesWhen I unlock the driver side door with the remote and i hope the door, if i do not close the door or if i close the door and do not start the car within a 10-20 second window, the door lock on their own and engage the alarm.
I am use to having the auto re-lock engage if you unlock with remote but no doors get opened during a certain timeframe, is it possible that my driver door is not sending the signal that it has been opened? is this behavior normal?
The doors & trunk will auto lock @10mph and will not auto unlock when car is stopped. This is very inconvenient. When I buy groceries then try to open the trunk when I get home, I always have to unlock the trunk before I can open it.
My dealer told me they cannot reprogram it. The older model has an option on the MFC but not ours.
I own 2010 3rd gen European Executive Prius which is equipped with fabric Toyota's alarm VSS1. I read in manual it is possible to set Automatic doors lock function (over 12mph) , but is not described how to enable that function. How I can activate this function?
View 2 RepliesI just recently purchased a 2000 Excursion and had some questions up in another thread. After doing some diagnosing....I have a couple of questions about the auto locking hubs. The problem I have is that even with the vacuum line disconnected from the knuckle and no vacuum...the hubs won't unlock in auto/2wd. I confirmed that the knuckle and the hubs will hold vacuum when I hooked my vacuum pump up to it and it held vacuum (the fitting should be clear as I heard the hub making some sounds). I'm getting ready to pull the hubs to clean and re-grease them. My question is that being they are still locked....will it be any harder to pull them off the spindle and after disassembling them/cleaning them.....when I re-install them....will they be unlocked by default after putting them back on the spline as they have been pulled apart and reassembled?
View 14 Replies