Ever since i put tires and rims on the tread of my tires gives i little bit of vibration in the cab. Now i noticed at highway speeds mostly an annoying metal tapping noise from the second row captain chairs. What could be doing that out of the seats....
View 5 Replies2012 Passat SEL ... I got new tires put on a few weeks ago and have a new rattle, sounds like glass tapping against glass or metal on metal. It only happens when I'm cruising around 65 mph. From where I am in the drivers seat, it sounds like it's coming from the drivers rear tire area or under/behind the center console/dash board. I know it's not a lot of info, but need to figure out what's going on.
View 1 RepliesI presume it to be possibly a blend door actuator/switch. It does not happen all the time, when it does I have simply shut down the hvac and it stops.
View 1 RepliesThe brakes were sounding like metal on metal. Three wheels in, some of the pads needed replaced but none were worn out. I got to the right rear wheel and the inside pad is worn to the bracket but the outside pad hardly looks worn at all.
I'm already replacing rotors, pads and calipers (I wasn't going to replace the rear rotors or calipers until I got to this wheel). Is there anything else I need to check because of such uneven pad wear?
There are 2 metal straps going left to right between the rear seat mounts. They don't appear to do anything. The seat doesn't touch them. The mounts are bolted to the floor so they don't give support. What they are for?
View 13 RepliesSo out of nowhere after about 20k miles, I am driving and start to feel what seems like something metal, tapping my brake pedal (felt like someone was tapping it lightly with a hammer). It clearly was not coming from inside of the car and was annoying, if you place your foot on the brake and "jiggle" the steering wheel you could feel it, as if something was loose. After looking I could not find anything on the inside or outside of the vehicle that seemed loose. I did not have to equip to jack the car up and get into the nitty gritty, but did what i could from the top.
Since I still have a warranty I took it in. Stealership calls about 2 hours later and says there is an obvious issue with my ABS. Then proceeds to tell me that my car is "heavily modified" (i have a twintake and hi-flo pipe) and they are basically trying to blame the issue on my intake. Because clearly that makes sense.
What we have is a 2011 F-350 with the ambulance package (obviously) and it has started making a very annoying sound from the front end. It has been into two different Ford Dealerships and they have not been able to remedy this issue. What happens is, when we are backing and turning, the front end makes a bad metal on metal grinding noise. When going straight down the road no issue just turning while backing. I know this is an ambulance and has the ambulance package but I think from the cab forward should just be all ford right?
View 2 RepliesI have an '02 Taurus. For the last year or so it has intermittently produced a metal on metal grinding noise while failing to start up. I'm told this is due to teeth being missing on the flywheel between the starter and the transmission. It's taken as many as six tries to get the car going. But the car has always started in the end.
My questions are: Is the problem flywheel worth replacing at this point at this price? Is it likely to fail totally any time soon?
Also, might the March '09 replacement starter be implicated?
I have intermittent metal on metal grinding noise. Seems to happen when I am at highway speed. Seems to go away when I put it on 4 wheel drive or slow way down. On one occasion though, the grinding noise did not stop even after putting on 4 wheel drive - had to stop completely before it went away (did not come back after I drove off again). Diagnostics so far....
Unhooked the vacuum lines on passenger side actuator and hooked up vacuum gauge. Vacuum held at 20 psi and drops and raises slightly as the truck is being revved. Takes about 10 seconds for vacuum to drop to zero once truck is stopped. Putting it on 4 wheel drive drops it to zero immediately. Exact same scenario on the passenger side.
This leads me to believe my IWE solenoid is ok. So also my check valves. Next opportunity I get, I will raise one wheel, remove the vacuum line on that wheel and apply vacuum with my pump. Want to see if it will turn my half shaft.
2004 F150 FX4 ....
My father's 1997 F150 with the 4.6 two wheel drive, has me stumped again. I have a lot of mechanic knowledge but this one has got me wondering whats going on. Here is the run down. When you are driving down the road, it rides just fine and makes no noises from 0-20 MPH, after about 25 to 35 mph it makes like a metal on metal noise that is coming from the rear, and forces the truck to slow down, when you try to accelerate through this problem it has a bad bang and it wont allow you to speed up anymore, it does not seem like a brake issue (but I could be wrong) since it does not actually pull to one side or the other.
It seems like an equal force trying to stop the truck. I have heard rear ends that were going out and they make clunk noises or whirring noises etc, but its still some what driveable. I have checked the rear end oil and it does have oil in it, and its probably about an inch from the full level (but that shouldnt cause this issue im sure). My father wants a definite answer before we start tearing this thing apart to try and fix it. Since its mostly used to take trash off, and also get the kids down the dirt road to the bus stop.
I bought a used 2001 Excursion. Neither of the middle row 60/40 bench seats will lift up.
The 60% (wider) bench seat lifted fine a week ago. Then I installed two car seats above them, drove it for a week, and when I took them out and tried to lift that bench seat, it seems stuck. I pull up on the lever, but the seat won't lift.
The previous owner re-upholstered the seats before I bought it, and there is no opening in the new upholstery for it even to latch into the base. So I'm very confused how it could be locked.
Similar story for the other 40% (smaller) seat. We actually just lifted this seat up and cut out holes in the new upholstery so that it could lock into the base. And when we finally pushed it down and heard it lock, after that we could not get it to lift. We pull the latch up and hear it unlock, and we can feel underneath that it is unlocked. Yet the seat will not lift.
I'm pulling with all my strength, but the seats are stuck.
My 02 X limited has velcro to hold up the panels behind the 2nd row seats. It has been abused by a previous owner and will not keep the panels up. It makes the 3rd row unusable. Tried some new glue backed velcro but that lasted about 10 minutes.
View 14 RepliesI commute 180 miles a day, 6 days a week. I noticed metal on metal grinding noise(more noticeable) at high speed above 75mph especially on asphalt road. I'm sure noise is there at low speed but not enough to notice. My car has 50,000 miles. Tires? Electric motor?
View 7 RepliesI got some coilovers installed last night, they are ksports. i have them on fairly low height as of now but i have noticed every time I hit bumps, I hear a kthunk (metal hitting metal noise) from my front driver side. is it from the coilover nuts itself or something wrong with my control arm? the sound ONLY comes from the front DRIVER side.
View 4 RepliesI recently worked on a 2006 with 140K miles that presented with the following symptoms:
The hybrid battery was at 1 bar; the ICE would not start; the car was in Ready, but there were no codes. As I let it roll off the flatbed wrecker in Neutral, it felt lumpy. If you have ever pushed a car (or run out of gas in one) with a manual transmission that was in a high gear, engine off, it felt just like that.
I popped the hood and could see that the engine crank was turning while the car was being pushed in Neutral. What else turns with the wheels? MG2, or more specifically, the MG2 ring gear. What is the only way that the wheels could turn the ICE crank? The planetary carrier pinions were locked to the ring gear.
Surprisingly, while I was looking at things, it did manage to start the ICE pushing it around must have freed the carrier pinions, so I let it charge the hybrid battery. It was basically the worst metal-to-metal noise that I have ever heard! I pulled the drain plug and saw about a teaspoonful of large metal chips on the magnet. The fluid condition itself was very good, not the black factory fill that I am used to seeing come out.
My Elantra's HVAC fan has always been a quiet thing, even on 3.....we won't mention level 4 and the fact it sounds like a 747 at takeoff.
I kid you not, the very evening I hit 60,000 miles and the general warranty expired, the blower motor started making noise like it was throwing a bearing and definitely sounded like some light metal-on-metal rubbing. After I became irritated at this, the noise went away and didn't come back until just a few weeks ago. I could make it stop by smacking on the bottom of the fan assembly a few times but I want a more permanent solution.
Tonight I dropped the blower out which was stupid easy except for the fact you're upside down in the dark with your head in a hole. But three screws and an electrical connector later, I dropped the assembly to find no serviceable components. I mentioned this to friend of mine who's into Volvos suggested spraying some lithium grease on the hub of the blower and letting it run long enough to quiet it down. I'll do this over the next few days and report back but part of me thinks a new blower may be in my future.
I have a base v6. When I turn the steering wheel (for example, to make a left turn), it sounds like there is metal-on-metal rubbing. The wheel is not extended (turned all the way til it stops)...
View 2 RepliesWhen driving in my parking garage, I can hear a slight metal on metal noise. An extreme example would be sharpening a knife on a sharpener, its not as loud or predominate.
-I've checked the lugs, they are secure.
Car has springs and spacers.
I have a 2011 Prius with about 32K miles on it. I've been hearing light metal on metal grinding noise for a few days now. So I decided to take it to a stealership and they told me my ceramic pads and brake rotors both need to be replaced for all 4 wheels. I thought Prius brakes don't need to be replaced for 100K miles.
View 7 RepliesFor the past few months, pretty consistently, whenever I engage the clutch from full stop into first gear (it does it when starting in second gear too; and reverse) there is a pretty obnoxious and loud screeching noise that I would liken to a subway/train braking or just metal on metal grinding situation. When I took the car in to Douglas for an oil change and APR Stg 1 flash, they told me it's just the brakes being cold, etc. After driving the car some more, I really doubt that it's the brakes and I can reproduce this regularly by slowly releasing the clutch and get the noise usually just before the gear engages.
That car has just over 16K on the clock and has never been abused. The clutch pedal feels fine and there is no issue shifting into any of the gears other than the noise. No mods other than the APR Stage 1.
My 98 CR-V is now making a metal on metal ticking noise. The noise only occurs when the car is in motion. The noise seems to occur about every two revolutions of the wheels when moving slowly; I can't determine if the ratio holds true at higher speeds. The noise seems more prevalent when standing on the car's passenger side, but not significantly. The car has 225K miles.
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