Ford Excursion :: Air Won't Come Out Of Vents If Car Is Turned On With Fan Speed On Medium To High
Aug 21, 2013
If we have the air on a medium or high setting (A/C or just vent air) and coming out of the middle vents (at your face in other words), then turn the car off with the fan speed on that medium to high setting, then turn the car on later, the air comes out of the defroster (windshield) instead, even though the middle (face) setting is selected.
I have to turn the air fan speed right down to the lowest setting, then the air switches to the vents (face), and I can then turn the fan speed back up again. Its like it has a weak flap or something in the dash that diverts the air around. Car is an 03 6.0l limited with the "climate control" (the buttons and digital display).
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My father in law has a 2011 Prius -3 - with 135,000 miles on it. He has an interesting issue. The front windshield wipers work on low and medium. When he tries to put them on high, the wipers barely moves. When I drop the stalk back at med or low and it works as if nothing is wrong. I have checked the 30amp fuse and it looks fine. I do not hear any grinding or noise when the wipers are working. I think it could be the motor. However before I go out and purchase the motor, I wanted to make sure there was anything else I could be missing... The dealer wanted 340 for parts and install.. .I know I can do the job myself as I have worked on their other Prius - 2005 with 240,000 miles and counting.
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I have been getting some knocking the under most any loads . I do not have any codes. I tried premium gas and that did not make any difference. If this is not fixed what issues can this cause? What should I look for do get this fixed?
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I've got a 03 x with the 6.8 2wd 4r100. It was flaring pretty bad for a while going into lock up, about 2 months ago the flare went away now NO lockup. Its taking more pedal to get moving and alot more slip, once you reach cruising speed tranny goes into high pressure. Told to replace the selonoid pack, got one use from a tranny shop from a tranny that lost reverse, got it home took mine out and found out the new one is not PWM and mine is, I tested my selonoid by putting 12v to pin 1 and 4 and nothing (on the pwm pack) did it to the new pack and it works. My question is what will happen if I put the non pwm in my tranny that originally had pwm pack in it?
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Recently my brakes were feeling a little spongy so I took my X to a local shop who installed new front and rear brake pads and flushed the brake fluid. The brakes seemed to operate properly.
But, then while driving on the interstate in Tampa, I had to SLAM on the brakes but it seemed like it took forever to slow down. It's hard to describe, but it's like when you are moving at interstate speeds and then you have to SLAM on the brakes, the X just slows down and comes to an eventual stop. It does not stop quickly.
I do not feel any pulsing from the antilock braking system so I don't think it is being activated for some reason. This seems to only happen at faster speeds. I have no problem when driving around town and slowing down for stop signs or red lights. It slows and stops just fine.
So I took the X back to the shop and they replaced the Booster w Ford booster. I thought I checked it out as soon as I picked it up around town AND on the interstate.
But, today I had to SLAM on the brakes while on the interstate again and it is acting just like before - just slowing down, but not fast and without the antilock brakes activating (apparently).
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94 blazer ac fan will work on low and med but not high replaced resistor under hood but still no high speed fan?...........
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Had my first drive with the windows down for a long time and noticed a new medium to high pitched whine, stays relative to engine speed. Not the turbo, its much louder than that, i searched about the water pump issues and no one seemed to mention any associated noise, just coolant on the driveway. Waterpump? Alternator?
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I have an 06 with 105000 miles. Since about 95000, I've been starting to get what sounds like a fuel knock with medium-high load on the engine. Thought it was carbon at first, but a few applications of Techron didn't clear it. Higher octane does seem to solve it.
Do the knock sensors go bad on a Prius? What's the proper way to diagnose the knock sensor on a Prius? (can't exactly bang on the block with a wrench at idle and listen for fuel adjustments on a car that doesn't idle).
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I have the Bridgestone Turanza EL400 radials on my car and now at 8000 miles I have started hearing a noise that is hard to describe. It sounds like a singing, or medium to high pitched whine (no, it's not the transmission sound others have reported). It occurs anytime I'm above 20 MPH. I can put the car in neutral at 55 and coast and it's still there, so it's not the engine (which is idling while I'm coasting). I can't detect any noise from the engine at all at idle or at speed. I took a dealership technician on a ride and he thinks it sounds like tire noise. I have heard some complaints on one of the tire sites about this brand being noisy after a few thousand miles.
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I have a 2004 F-150 SCrew Lariat 4X4 with 80K miles. Over the past month or so, every once in awhile there would be a loud metallic "clacking" sound (kind of like sticking a peice of aluminum in a bike's spokes) that would start at higher speeds and would turn into a low pitched whirring gear sound as I slowed down and eventually there would be a thud followed by a sensation of running over a small bump and the noise would be gone. Kind of confusing I know, but that is the best way to describe it. My gut feeling is a wheel bearing or transmission problem....
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I am having overheating problems at high speed/high rpm/under load. The only codes ive gotten are EGR dpfe (0401). Truck is 99 f250 with the 6.8 new egr valve, dpfe, new coolant, new thermo, new sensor under manifold. I blew 90 lbs air pressure thru the egr lines, big and small, they were clear.
So whats left? I never hear my fan clutch......should I? I've had other trucks and the fan roared when first started for a few seconds, and then again when you were hot...they really roared.
Is it possible for the egr port where it goes into the throttle body to be plugged? guess I should've checked that when I had the egr off. Would an aux. fan be a waste of time?
This is pulling a 3500 lb camper trailer up moderate hills.
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I am pretty sure my heater core is failing and has been for a while (no drip, but coolant smell). Today when I turned on the A/C, I got a nasty, smokey mist from the vents along with the cold air. The fog/mist smells like coolant but with a burned, somewhat oily smell.
2004 ranger, 3.0, 2wd, ext cab, 193,000 mi --- also, what if any, special tools do I need to R&R heater core. The last heater core I did was an 83 GMC p/u and it was a breeze; handful of sockets and I was done - I have heard the ranger will be quite a bit tougher.
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So my truck is making a rapid clicking type of noise out of the vents when the ac is turned on.
The noise sounds like a thin piece of paper getting hit by a fan (that's what I hear) It started during this past winter when I would cold start the truck. but as the heater warmed up it went away completely. well now since its warm out I am running the ac now, and it blows cold but doesn't have a lot of volume to it it seems. but being the problem was when the truck was cold running the cold ac makes the noise permanent.
The blend door acutator is working as should (i can only assume the blend door is ok) the vacuum lines are good and vacuum signal is good.
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I have a couple of concerns:
1. On my temp control when I select the floor for the air it never comes out of the floor vents. Just curious before I tear into it.
2. When I run my AC it seems to alternate from defrost vents to head panel vents. Just wondering if that is part of its function or is there something wrong.
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As the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
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Been noticing this lately. Kinda smells like coolant I think but it's intermittent and for a short period of time. Notice it more when turning the heater on or when setting the temp to a higher setting.
Havent noticed any leaks on the carpet. Heater core? Why intermittent?
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How to keep roof vents from falling out? I had one that was falling out in 3rd row for quite a while which did not bother me to much but today had 1 on passenger 2rd fall & hit my mother. So my question is what can I do to keep them in? It's like PO wrecked all of them he was very messing owner I'm still finding pop in spots on the headliner.
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My 02 V-10 Ex seems to be blowing Air from the front vents up to the Defrost unless it go through a series of events-- Hit Auto then forward Air then the fan has to be a 4 only. It will blow forward vents then go back and forth from theirr to the defrost. Also the Temp seems to be much hotter then it should.
Took a interstate trip this weekend though and it seems to blow much colder and do a little bit better staying in the front vents however still goes back and forth. Im in FL and its HOT!!!! The only thing I know is that its a vacuum system.. and that again its HOT in the truck as a daily driver.
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I have an electrical odor coming from my vents. I always smell it when I start the vehicle. Other then that its not continuous just intermittent. I did have the passengers side front running board light short out and have since cut it off until its warmer to replace it. I wrapped it in electrical tape and stuck it back in the running board. I did have the odor when the fuse was burn out for the running board light. I replaced the pressure switch for the cruse control last year. I was thinking the blower might be going bad. What it may be?
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I noticed one of the adjustments for the Carista 3.0 is to Open vents to outside air when ignition is turned off. The factory default was set to *Yes*. I changed it to No because I was thinking when it's really warm outside (I live in warmer part of silicon valley) and you crank up the A/C and then park outdoors, opening the vents to the outside will warm the car faster. Don't know whether my assumption is correct or not?
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Went to turn car off and vents kept blowing air even after car turned off and key out. Replaced the blower module and that didn't work. Am I doing something wrong? Kinda cold out, would like some heat...
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