Ford Excursion :: After Oil Change Shakes At Idle?
Dec 3, 2015
Just changed my oil on my X since I just bought it. I put 6 qts in it but now it shakes at idle which it wasn't doing before. It seems like the oil may be a little high but I want to make sure before I drain any out. Also while I was under there I found that the drivers ball joints were replaced but not passenger side. I also found that I have 4.30 gears according to the tag so that's good. I also found that I'm missing a boot or something on rear driveshaft so not sure if something is dry and contributing to my highway shake separate from my idling and acceleration shake. I just put a matching set of dura grapplers on there which worked a lot as the 4 tires on there were all different and worn differently too. Also it seems someone replaced all but 2 cops
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I just recently upgraded to a 2007 LS460 from a 2001 GS300 (rear-ended and totalled in an accident). Anyway, I have it for almost a month now, just took it to Firestone Auto Care for a full synthetic oil change for the very first time. I also purchased the life-time alignment and rotated the tires. Last night when I put it in Park, it started to shake pretty badly. I took it to them this morning, but it didn't reproduce the obvious shake so they said bring it back if I feel it again. What could have caused this? The oil change? The alignment? Or could it possibly be the tire rotation? I also notice that the ride is not as smooth and quiet anymore when I'm driving. I can hear the engine bay swirling about, is this normal? I swear I didn't hear that before. Also, my front passenger seat seems to vibrate more than my driver seat.
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Recently bought a 2001 Excursion 4x4 but failed to take it on the highway and get it up to speed. It shakes real bad around 65 but I can't tell exactly where the shake comes from. Here is what I've fixed so far. Balanced tires, Alignment, Fixed Steering Linkage, Balanced rear drive shaft, new shocks, new brake pads (slightly warped rotors but shakes w/o braking), lubed everything, replaced all fluids except transmission which was clean, no metal in any fluids, removed front driveshaft. Checked wheel bearing as best as I can.
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My question is I have a 2002 Excursion 5.4 2wd with 126K on it, I have been chasing a shaking steering wheel while braking at higher speeds 50 mph and up, it is stronger at higher speeds and gets weaker and eventually goes away when slowing under 45ish mph. The shake in the wheel does not pull the truck at all, you can let go and it still stops straight. I have aligned and balanced I know its right I did it myself. I have also replaced steering dampener, and have done a full brake job on the front all new parts everything. Also the steering linkage is tight no slop or play in it.
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My 2002 excursion 7.3 is acting weird when in drive. I have to get to around 2k rpm to get moving and hard shifts. But if I put it in 1st it has no problem but in 2nd i have hard vibration that shakes whole truck.
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Truck seems to have a rough idle not bad I had kid in back seat and ran into store came out and he asked why my truck was shaking. Plugs been changed dunno anything else I could do.
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I have a 1997 explorer xlt 2 wheel drive 4 door. It's got 189,000 miles on it. It's shakes a lot on idle when put in drive. I've replaced a lot of stuff. I've also lost a lot of power. I can put the gas pedal to the floor and still not get enough power. The shaking feels like it's about the stall out but it doesn't. Oh and there a rear main leak if that works.
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I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven. 2005 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles
I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.
Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.
So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue. Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.
I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.
My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.
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My 95 4.0 has had a periodic idle issue for quite a while. It seems it may be getting worse. Here is when it may only happen:
Vehicle is fully warm. I shut it off for about 1 hr or so and when I restart it, it shakes and misses in idle. It will idle fine after I drive it around or if I rev the engine for a while when still parked.
This never triggers the "check engine light". New fuel filter, plugs and wires.
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Changing 3rd brake light to an led? Im doing the led swap on all the exterior lighting but I can't seem to find a red 3rd brake light. Using the f250 3rd brake light? Is it a direct swap?
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Do you change when you change your oil, or at what interval? How often to change fuel filter?
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About a month ago I changed the plugs on my EX to see if I might pick up a few tenths on my mpg. There was no real issue, but I wasn't sure when they were done last. I used Autolite platinum's(AP103). Since I changed them The truck has a hard miss during acceleration. It feels like it is missing on multiple cylinders. It is most noticeable below 2000 RPMS. During hard acceleration it almost clears out, but the the truck feels like a pig.
There is also a miss at idle, but it goes away if the truck is in park, or neutral. Thinking that it may be my choice of plugs I went back last week and replaced them again with motorcrafts. Still having the same issue. Have scanned the truck with both the Torque app, and an sct scanner and its not throwing any codes. I'm at a loss. In the last year I have replaced the fuel pump, and the filter so I'm ruling those out.
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Well I've got 54K on the Ex and we'll be heading out for what will likely be our last long towing trip through some pretty serious terrain. I've got Hawk LTS pads on the front and those are doing really well but I wanted to change out my rear pads...upon closer inspection I still had about 1/3 of the pads left...but since I had torn everything apart...I installed the new pads so here's some pictures and a little write up as I go.
First jack up the rear of the Ex and make sure you support it with jack stands for safety.
Next remove the wheels and here's what you got
What you are looking for are 4 bolts on the back side. There are 2 caliper mounting bolts and 2 slide bolts. Torque values for the caliper mounting bolts are 166 ft-lbs and for the slide bolts 42 ft-lbs. I believe the caliper mounting bolt is an 18mm and the slide bolt is a 12 or 13mm (sorry I can't remember right now). But here's what you will be looking for...notice I'm reaching behind the rotor to take this picture outwards...
You will want to LOOSEN the caliper mounting bolts FIRST but DO NOT REMOVE them yet...then loosen the slide bolts...once both are loose...remove the caliper mounting bolts and SUPPORT the caliper...do NOT let it hang by the hose.
Here's a close up of my old pads...you can see there's still plenty of meat...but I was here and it don't take long to change them...
Remove the slide bolts and then separate the slide from the caliper
Next you will need to remove the slide pins from their holes...CAREFULLY grip the top of the rubber boot and slide if off of the pin as you are pulling hte pin up and out. Work with one slide pin at a time to not confuse them...one has a NOTCH and that will go on top the of the caliper...but if you work one at a time...there's no confusion. Pull out the slide pin and clean it off...you will need some high temperature brake grease to LIGHTLY lube up the pins before reinserting them. IF the pins are STUCK (mine weren't but I've heard they can be...) you may need to apply a little heat to try and break them free. Inspect the boots to make sure they aren't cracked or dry rotted and once you apply a THIN layer of grease...reinsert them into the hole and slip the boot back over the ridges. It will be obvious for the orientation when you reinstall the slide onto the caliper...basically the "flat" edge goes against the caliper and the "round" or "notch" sticks out the end...
At this point you will need to "press" the caliper pistons back into the caliper...there are a number of ways to do this...you can get a caliper tool from Autozone (they give it to you for free you just leave a deposit on your credit card so you bring it back!)...or you can do what I do...use a big C-clamp and I use my old brake pads to press against...compress the pistons back into the caliper...BUT REMEMBER TO LOOSEN YOUR MASTER CYLINDER CAP FIRST...when you compress your piston...the fluid in the lines gets forced back into the master cylinder...if you don't open the lid...pressure could be built up...
Here's the new pads installed and the slide bolts barely engaged to hold the slide to the caliper...Do not tighten these bolts until you have reinstalled the caliper onto the mounting brackets and snugged down the caliper mounting bolts.
Here's a view looking DOWN from above with the slide bolts AND mounting bolts engaged but NOT tightened yet.
Now make sure you torque everything up on this side and move to the other side and repeat the steps.
Once you finish the second side make sure you tighten your master cylinder cap.
At this point I also rotated my tires...but if you aren't doing that...simply return your tires to the Ex and torque your lug nuts and you are done.
I can typically change brake pads in about 30-45 minutes...they aren't that hard at all.
Next step...start the truck and pump the brakes to return brake pressure...then take the truck for a drive.
It is important to also "bed in your pads"...this involves a number of 30mph to 5mph HARD STOPS to heat up the pads and rotors and allow for a transfer of brake pad material to the rotors...you'll smell "hot brakes" when you have done it enough...typically about 6-8 hard stops. Then let the truck cool down without your foot on the brakes.
I didn't mess with the parking brake while I was back there because I had tested it just prior to my starting and it is holding nicely...I didn't feel like messing with it incase it is all rusted and fell apart on me.
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Ok, I've read about the blower motor resistor, and everyone says you should have HIGH speed on the fan.
2002 Excursion with digital display.
I turn the truck on, then turn on the blower. A small puff of air comes out then shuts off completely. I can hear the direction doors opening when i change between foot and face A/C.
Is this the blower resistor that needs changing?
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My 05 Powerstroke X has a coolant filter installed by the previous owner.
I have no directions for the kit. To change the filter is it as simple as close the valves and spin off the filter and put a new one on?
Any need to bleed the system?
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I ordered a new factory steering wheel to replace mine, which is starting to get nasty. I know how to change the steering wheel but have never done it on one with an air bag. Is this a dealer only thing? What is the procedure?
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I decided to change out my alternator to a high output. After researching I've decided to go with a DC Power...I'm planning more lights and a power inverter. Any recommendation on which one? I don't care what it cost just don't want to over do it, can too many amps hurt anything? Also, on my previous EX I did the big 3 upgrade. Is it the same on a 2 battery setup?
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Truck has been running like a champ the entire time I had it. Took it in yesterday for an oil change. They also changed the fuel and air filters.
Drove off the lot and noticed some loss of power. This morning truck still feels sluggish but it is also blowing out black smoke pretty much every time I touch the gas pedal. I am even being super gentle with it. Starting from a stop, I hit 1500rpm and it's blowing thick black smoke as if I was flooring it. Same thing while rolling to get a bit more speed to pass.
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This may be my only chance to do a step-by-step ...
Tools Required : Fingers (preferably attached to hands)
Step One : Check diver side floorboard for cleanliness (people are going to see it in the pics)
Don't worry about passenger side. There will be no pics of it.
Step Two (fingers required for steps two through seven and ten) : Vacuum driver floorboard since there will be pictures made of it.
Step Three : Remove old, worn out brake pedal cover.
Step Four : Remove aftermarket brake pedal cover from ridiculously oversized Amazon box that's still in the passenger side floorboard.
Step Five : Take a picture of the old and new covers together to make fun of the old one.
Step Six : Install new brake pedal cover.
Step Seven : Remove new brake pedal cover and re-install right side up..
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So I think it's time to change my belt on my 6.0. I came back from Fort Hood, started the beast back up, and heard the belt squeal loudly at first, then settle into a rhythmic squeak that at first seems to intensify with RPM, then seems to die out at highway speed.
On every car I've ever owned, when the time came to change out serpentine or fan belts, I would also change tensioners and idlers. Is this necessary on these trucks? Or something I should do for peace of mind? Or not at all?
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My TC motor picked today of course with the snow to go bad. Luckily I hobbled to advance right as they were about to close and got one. I laid in the snow and changed it. Needless to say I got soaked beyond belief. Anyways now it changes in and out well but still seems way to loose in the rear. Not sure if something else is malfunctioning or if these things are like that. Right now I don't feel nearly as safe as I did in my expedition and that was without even using 4hi or low just the A4WD. The excursion is sliding everywhere. My tires have great tread but are highway tires so maybe that's the issue. They are Dura Grapplers. I'm going to try throwing some weight in the rear to maybe gain some traction.
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