The adjustable brake pedal on my excursion works fine, but the throttle doesn't and never did adjust. It just doesn't move at all. Why? Just a bad electric motor on the adjuster? Just curious if there is something common that fails before I delve into trouble shooting it more.
View 7 RepliesDon't know how to increase the brightness of the interior clock/temp display. Mine is fairly dim and doesn't seem to be adjustable in the instrument settings anywhere.
View 2 RepliesJust wondering if the second row seats in a excursion r adjustable. Wanting to make the rear seat of my 05 F250 adjustable.
View 13 RepliesI have the CaryT V/ modded B 33" kit installed, and re-torqued after 200 miles. But since the install the EX pulls to the left and I have a clunking in the front end. The alignment shop said they have my alignment "dead nuts", and it must be my tires. Well I replaced my tires and wheels and I still have the pulling problem.
The clunking I believe is coming from the adjustable track bar, the torque wrench only goes to 250 ft/lbs so went to 250 and then tightened a little more. I have no way to measure the 396 ft/lbs in the specs.
I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre with 226k and my parking/E-brake annoys me. The brake isn't stuck or anything, but the pedal doesn't come back all the way, at least not enough to turn off the brake light or accompanying dinging. Most of the time, the cable is disconnected from the pedal to keep the light and dinging off unless I have to use it. Is there any way to adjust the parking brake to get the pedal to fully return or is there something else wrong with the system?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2003 Eddie Bauer with the v10, the problem I am having is at random times the brake peddle will just fade away. It doesn't go all the way to the floor but pretty close. I had the master cylinder replaced and that did not fix it. I took it back in and had them bleed the entire system along with the analoc system, they tested the analoc system and said that was not the problem. Brakes did fine for about a week and has now started to fade away again.
View 9 RepliesI picked up a nicely used 98 XL in Alabama yesterday, with 106k original miles. The dealer threw in FREE oil changes for life with my purchase, but I don't see me driving 2.5 hours to Alabama for that.
It's got crank up windows, manual locks, standard tranny, 4.2 V6, and the regular seats. Yep, pretty basic. It came with a matching fiberglass shell also. The only things wrong are the radio volume doesn't adjust, and the rear window frame appears cracked. These are minor in my opinion.
What drew me to this truck was the beautiful condition it's in and my love of this body style. What would be added to improve creature comforts, performance, etc.
I have a 2005 Excursion 4x4 Limited 6.0 diesel. I had someone pull alongside me today and tell me my brake lights were out. Sure enough. I double checked and nothing at both lower lights and also nothing at the third brake.
So... here's the short version of the things I've checked so far:
1. no brake lights when pedal depressed.
2. running lights work fine
3. turn signals work fine
4. hazards work fine
5. brake lights DO illuminate when I press the brake button on my trailer brake controller
6. checked power to the green with red tracer wire going to the brake light switch on the pedal. 12 v present continuously
7. checked power to light green wire. 12 v present when pedal is depressed. 0 v when pedal is released.
8. checked power to tail lights (wish I had tried the trailer brake controller sooner, this step would have been unnecessary). voltage present (I think 10-12 v) when the running lights were turned on. 0 v when brake pedal depressed. I suspect now that I would have 12 v when squeezing my trailer brake controller button.
I was pretty convinced it was the brake switch at the pedal. But since I'm seeing the voltage pass through the light green wire when depressed.... I know the wiring to the lights are good because they work when pressing the trailer brake controller button.
So... Do I need to dig into the multifunction switch that I've been reading about? Does the power go from the pedal switch to the multifunction, then to the trailer brake controller? I'm really hoping that I don't have to dig into the column to check that multifunction switch!
This may be my only chance to do a step-by-step ...
Tools Required : Fingers (preferably attached to hands)
Step One : Check diver side floorboard for cleanliness (people are going to see it in the pics)
Don't worry about passenger side. There will be no pics of it.
Step Two (fingers required for steps two through seven and ten) : Vacuum driver floorboard since there will be pictures made of it.
Step Three : Remove old, worn out brake pedal cover.
Step Four : Remove aftermarket brake pedal cover from ridiculously oversized Amazon box that's still in the passenger side floorboard.
Step Five : Take a picture of the old and new covers together to make fun of the old one.
Step Six : Install new brake pedal cover.
Step Seven : Remove new brake pedal cover and re-install right side up..
2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
View 2 RepliesWhy is there a sensor on the brake master cylinder? Most other cars and trucks I've seen have tied the cruise control into the brake light (and clutch interlock if Manual transmission.) switch so that when the pedal is depressed, the cruise control cuts out.
In the Ex, could I tap the brake pedal enough that the brake lights come on yet I don't trigger the pressure sensor in the master cylinder to cut the cruise control?
So towed the trailer down to a remote lake side spot over the weekend, pretty bad dirt road with lots of breaking bumps. Now pushing the break pedal creates a swooshing noise, and a vibration under the hood around the master cylinder, and the power steering whines a little bit. Took it two several mechanics and 2 think it's the pump, one thinks it's the hydro booster? I tried to bleed any air out by turning the wheel all the way maxed and pushed the brakes, did nut really work, but I did notice that when pressing the brake pedal and turning the steering wheel at the same time, it becomes extremely difficult too turn the wheel, makes me think it's the pump because there is not enough pressure to do both?
View 5 RepliesHave an 07 gs350 awd and lately the pedal feels stiff and doesn't depress all the way down at startup. Sometimes the steering wheel will go back up as if I have just stopped the car and occasionally I will get the message on the dashboard that I need to press the brake pedal at startup even though I am doing that. Dealership claims they can't duplicate problem and don't know what it could be.
View 3 RepliesI'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
I have a '02 Excursion with a 7.3L PSD, 238,000 miles. When I drive and say stop at a stop sign or light, when I transfer from the brake pedal to the accelorator and initially begin moving, I hear a slight "Thump" in the back. Could it be a sticky rear brake caliper? Bad U-joint? Sloppy ring/pinion gear? Just put AMS oil in the rear diff but have noticed slight shavings on the fill plug magnet.
View 14 RepliesI've had my 2008 RX350 for 2.5 yrs now and just love it! However, over the last 8 months or so, I've been having a strange annoying problem. And a few times, the car has left me stranded. What happens is I turn the key and my first indicator is that the steering wheel doesn't adjust and I know the car is not going to start. However, the radio may work, dash lights work, steering wheel is not locked. It seems entirely dead as if the battery is dead. The car may start 15 min later or may take 3 hours then decide to start.
A strange thing is, is the windows don't work following these episodes which normally signify a battery failure, however the battery is not very old, otherwise performs perfectly and the dealership tested it and say it's good. Because this is so intermittent, they couldn't re-enact the problem so I'm stuck with being stranded again....usually 6 weeks later. The dealership has no answers. I was lucky last night because the car started after 15 min. 6 weeks ago, I was stranded 50 miles away from home where I had to leave the car overnight after trying for 3 hours to get is started.
The next morning, it promptly started. I am at a total loss and it makes me nervous to drive. My husband who works for a chevy dealer and knowledgeable with cars is stumped. He asks the question, could there be a computer malfunction after so many starts which would answer the 6 wk consistency for which this happens? Should we just replace the battery even though we have no reason to suspect?
My passenger rear door handle opens at almost end of the pull if that makes sense. This is different than the others. Is there a way to adjust it?
View 2 RepliesI have an 08 F450 equipped with Ford integrated trailer brake controller. I tow between 6,000# and 14,000# machinery on a daily basis. I know the gain can be adjusted up to ten. I have noticed while braking "normal" The controller only outputs 1 green bar of power. Manually, the brakes on all my trailers don't grab untill around 3 bars of output. I find myself always sliding the manual lever to relieve the truck. The truck is suffering. I have the gain set to 10 just to get minimal result from the 1 bar output. I know my trailer brakes rock, they can stop the truck and trailer if needed. Can it be adjusted? How many bars are you folks getting with easy braking?
View 6 RepliesI just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
View 14 RepliesI'm having problems starting my truck. The second it catches, it just dies right away. It doesn't stay running even if I keep giving it throttle. Although when I did try to start it 5-10 times the other day, one of those times, it started and stayed on for about 5 seconds then died again. What to check? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this vehicle, but I would consider myself mechanically inclined since I've worked with newer cars and smaller engines before.
Also I don't know if this might be related, but I recently changed the oil & oil filter in the truck (after not having changed it for a long time).... and it was a castrol full synthetic high mileage oil. It ran and shifted a lot better for about a week before this starting problem happened. I checked the oil level and it's still perfect so I know it's not leaking oil or anything like that. Just wanted to throw this in there just in case.
So I installed my chip today. It's got anti-theft, high idle, stock, 50, 75, 100 tunes.
With the chip installed the truck starts. In all tunes except "High Idle" it idles at about 1000... normally it would be like 500-600. High idle position works (1100-1200 RPM). Anti-theft position works - it kills the truck. The throttle does nothing when pressed no matter which position it is in. Stock, 50, 75 or 100.
I removed the chip and the truck runs fine. Did these guys send me one for an automatic? Or do I have the wrong computer in my truck? My computer code is DAC3 and the truck is a 2000 with a manual transmission.