Ford Excursion :: Adding Sliders To The Middle Row Captain Chairs?
Feb 9, 2015
My third row gets used once in a blue moon. Usually the first two rows are enough. I have captains chairs but when I put the drivers seat all the way back it doesn't leave the middle row passenger much foot space, especially for how large the truck is. I've thought about buying a set of eBay sliders and putting them between the second row seat frame and the floor. That way I could keep all the factory features like the flip and fold, but still slide them rearward a few inches. I'm not sure I'll ever get around to it but I have had it on my mind a while.
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The middle a/c is not working and to clarify my front top display is out (I took down the display and the little chips appear to need to be re-seated or soldered) so I don't know if that is playing into the whole scheme.
Right now the front a/c works, rear back works on floor, but the middle does not blow at all. I have read several posts the mention a TMX(not sure if that is it)? also mention are flapper doors (?) directional doors(?).
Had the EGR delete done (and because mine is an 05 my engine light stays on - yeah) and the SCT computer and oil cooler are next. Also replaced all the injectors and performance has greatly improved.
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I am thinking of doing a hydroboost setup on my ex??
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My tail light. The middle wire broke I was thinking of soldering it together?
Is this part specific to the Excursions or can I go to the junk yard and get it from other Fords?
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Was about to buy a headlight switch with the Foglights option...realized I miss the auto lamps.
Is there a write-up on how to add these? Looked in the tech folder and didn't see one
What parts are needed?
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The local shop here suggested getting a set of F350 springs and they would take them apart and a leaf to the front and rear springs.
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So I finally got my truck running on sunday and I come home after work yesterday and my driveway is covered in coolant. the line that goes to the rear had split in the middle and also in the rear?!? Where to get a replacement. I was thinking about just cutting out the messed up section and hose clamping some heater hose in its place?
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I have the 2000 Ex. Tan leather seats. Two seats in the front. I need to add a third. I used to have a F150, that had a flip up/down center console. It was a seat when flipped up (the console became the seat back). What are my options with the Ex?
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My driver mirror has small clip failed, only way is a new mirror. I found a pair of mirrors with heat like mine BUT they have the turn signal.
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Working on the dang ram 3500... I am needing to add a relay, however, i need to strap the coil of it with a diode to protect the frigging cluster (the new dodges aren't very mod friendly!). My question is, should I add a second diode before the relay to protect the cluster against back emf, or will the one strapped across the relay coil be enough?
Since I am sure you're curious now, the cargo light (light that lights up the bed) gets its power from the gauge cluster of all places. I need to add a relay to the cargo light circuit to drive some other lights, and I am worried the back emf from the relay coil will fry the cluster circuitry.
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I am interested in putting speakers in the barn doors of the Ex.
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Is there any way to add Bluetooth to the stock 2000 Ex Radio?
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I have a 2006 F250 and it has the stock keyless entry. I would like to have remote start system as well. I know I can buy an aftermarket system, but I'd prefer to no cut any wires. Is it possible to add on the OEM remote start system that may have been used on a superduty or excision of this vintage? and if so, is it a plug in type installation? or do you still have to cut and splice the stock wiring harness.
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After doing some extensive searching it appears Kenwood is well liked as far as their in dash GPS/touch screen units. I know there is one model above this one that is more expensive and one or two under it without the WiFi features etc. that are less expensive.
Getting ready to pull the trigger on a unit..... Kenwood - DNN770HD
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Any trick? I folded down the larger (driver's side) middle seat to get a large payload in...now it won't pop back up...no matter how much lever pushing and seat-yanking I do. It's a 2001 Limited.
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I have seen plenty of the king ranch models that have the rear Captains chairs. My question is, I have a 03 Lariat Crew Cab w/ a bench seat, however, I would like to remove the bench and put 2 captains chairs in the back. Is this possible without lots of interior body modifications?
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Looking for a guide to adding OEM 2001 to 2004 fog lights and light switch in a 2000 model?
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2003 Ex, EB, bench style middle row. I have owned less than a year.
Purchased with a broken latch assembly the drivers side middle row...promptly replaced for $70. Today, it is broke again, less than a year. I am going to do some more investigating as to HOW this happened TWICE.
Chipped, broken housing on their middle latch assembly? It breaks the black part first, which holds the guts in alignment....once the black part slips down or up to far...the guts do not function.
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I want to add an in-line filter to my power steering set up. I'm replacing my pump, lines and steering box and I want to add a magnetic filter that will be easy to clean and change the filter without dumping fluid every time I want to replace the filter. I'm thinking of adding the Magnafine pro filter with aluminum billet housing. I know the plastic magnafine filters have been used alot and the knock off Raymundo's as well. Has anyone used this filter before and where did you mount it? I'm thinking of placing it between the PS reservoir and the air filter with fuel fittings and a fuel shutoff to close while swapping out the filter. Is there a better filter set up out there that I should consider?
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I've been making steady progress tearing down the transmission from my 2002 E-150 but have reached a point that I can't continue. The ATSG AODE manual says to "Rotate the shell assembly to align indent with overdrive anchor pin and then Remove forward sun gear." This is the step right after removing the intermediate stub shaft.
Well, the stub shaft came right out but the shell will not rotate, move, or do anything. It certainly cannot be removed. How to get this out?
Background: The trans is being worked on due to a failure that prevented it from being driven and it actually stalled the engine when shifted into any forward gear. It would idle in park or neutral. It would also still allow the engine to run in reverse but the van would still not move. I was able to push it into the garage in neutral.
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In January, I had the alternator replaced on my 2004 Focus after it died in the middle of the street. It's been fine since then, but yesterday I was driving it and it suddenly seemed to lose power - the dashboard battery light came on, there was the dinging noise that indicates that a seatbelt is unbuckled or the headlights have been left on when you open the door, and the fuel needle dropped to empty (even though the tank was 3/4 full.) Then everything kicked back on. Then it happened again. This cycle repeated three or four times. I parked the car, restarted it, and after that it was okay. BUT - I have two long trips coming up, to remote areas of the Rockies, and I want to make sure it's okay before setting off on these journeys.
It seemed like the alternator was bad, or maybe there was a loose connection, but I took it to the mechanic and he couldn't detect anything wrong. The alternator is under warranty, so he's suggesting that I just replace it, but also wants to run "other tests" to see what's going on.
Of possible relevance: it's been pretty cold out here for the past week (-5 F), I don't drive the car that much, and it was the first time I'd started it in several days. The heat and radio were both on when I started it. I left it running in neutral while I scraped off the windows, which I usually don't do. Generally I scrape off the windows first, then get in, start, and just drive. Sometimes it's sluggish in the cold when I do this, but usually it's fine.
Is it possible that this was just the cold? I'm wary of getting into a situation where the mechanic starts finding a bunch of stuff wrong with it that isn't actually wrong.
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