Ford Excursion :: ABS Light On After Batteries Replaced
Jul 11, 2015
Today I had to replace both batteries and now my ABS light is on. Before replacing the batteries I was installing a XM satellite system and my dash face plate was removed to make installation easier. After putting everything back together and connecting the new batteries the light is on. Tomorrow I will see if any codes come up using my Scangauge II otherwise I'll have to go to the parts store to have them pulled.
This is on an 04 Ex, Limited, 4x4, 6.0 PSD......
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 Superduty 4x4 6.0L Diesel with an alternator/battery problem. We have charged the batteries (had them tested at auto zone), and replaced the alternator and still cannot get the batteries to keep a charge. I'm not talking a slow drain, with the ignition switch on for less than a minute it drains about 4 amps and the truck dies. We also noticed a trouble code "TBC fault" and discovered that was to do with the trailer brakes. Disconnected the trailer brake system (have been noticing a "check trailer" warning occasionally recently). What could be causing such a massive drain on the batteries?
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In the last 2 months I've replaced my starter and 2 new batteries. I've tested the alternator and it's fine. What more is there? I'm guessing the FICM is going to crap. If I attach a scangauge 2 to it now would it tell me if that's the problem?
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Replaced batteries in key fob but does not work.small red light comes on on fob so it is getting power. Maybe a reprogram problem or broken fob.
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My wife drives a 2005 Solara 4 cylinder 2AZ-FE. Over the past few years, it has been going through batteries about every year and a half. The batteries have all failed on the load test.
So far, I've removed the alternator and taken it in to get it bench tested, tested fine. I had the full charging system check with the machine, starter tested fine, alternator volts were fine, only problem was the CCA load test (for which the battery was replaced under warranty). I tested for parasitic battery drain several times, got some drain for awhile after car is powered off, but it eventually falls to zero. I checked for voltage drop across the wiring, visually inspected the wiring to the starter, alternator, etc. and made sure the ground connections were tight from the battery to the frame and engine. Everything looked good.
The only thing I can come up with is that the most recent battery boiled over a bit at one point in time because there was evidence of acid spillage. Also, once (and only once), my wife noticed her lights flickering while her car was idling for awhile during a cold morning. These two things lead me to think it must be the alternator (voltage regulator), but neither the bench test nor anytime I test it at home reveals any issue.
Maybe it's an intermittent problem from vibration, etc. I just hate to plunk down the cash for a new alternator if that isn't the issue.
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I have a 2001 Prius and I replaced the modules with Gen II. It ran fine for awhile then the red triangle came back and the ICE would have a high revving sound and the brake warning light would come on. I can make this issue go away but pulling over and turning off the car and turning it on again. I pulled codes 3000 and 3006 and understand the problem may be uneven battery module levels. I have been driving it in an attempt to see the the modules will self level. An earlier dealer diagnosis also recommended a system main relay replacement which I did not do. It drives fine most of the time but maybe once a week the high revving issue comes back.
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You can see in my sig that my Ex is an '03 w/ a 7.3L. In the last couple of months I have been having a problem with her. Someone goes to start her and there is not enough power. The batteries are dead. We get out the cables, connect her to a power source, let the source build up some power, and she starts up. Then she runs well for days. Starts regularly. Like nothing ever was wrong. Then, suddenly, low battery power, not enough to start her.
Power source, let it charge the batteries some, turn the key, starts right up. Runs great for days. Suddenly.... It's like the movie "Groundhog Day".Since the batteries are only 3 years old I am thinking they are okay. They work day after day. The alternator must be working, Right? She runs well once started. The alternator charges the batteries so she works well for days. The alternator is only two years old.
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So my toddler turned on my dome light on Friday and I didn't realize it all weekend. Monday morning the battery was D.E.D. Charged it all day then jumped it and it turns over but no start. Took it to Autozone for a deep charge and test and ended up with a new battery. Installed it and the engine turns over but still won't start. It ran fine on Friday. This car is my commuter and I don't want to spend the money to take it to the shop. Why it won't now start? Could the dead battery have killed something else while it sat in my driveway?
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I had the clock spring replaced on my 2007 Ford Focus replaced at the dealership exactly 1 month ago because the airbag light kept going on and off. I paid about $200 for that repair. Yesterday when I was driving home (after being on the highway for about 20 miles) everything on the dash went dead except for the ABS light. When I tried to turn the radio back on, it said "Low Battery." I was able to make it to the dealership, but as soon as I turned off the engine, it was completely dead. When I turned the key, a couple of lights came on but it wouldn't even turn over. Is is possible that the mechanic didn't hook the battery up correctly after replacing the clock spring? Should I expect the dealership to pick up the cost for whatever needs replacing now? Or is this just really bad luck?
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I have a 99 excursion and it has me confused. I had the transmission replaced in it about 3 weeks ago. I parked it about a week ago and it was idling fine I turned it off and now it won't crank over. I have already replaced the starter and the starter solenoid. A friend suggested that there might be an engine ground strap in the area of the transmission that became loose with the recent transmission swap. (I had a shop do the transmission swap so no telling if they did everything perfect) ...
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I successfully replaced the radiator on my 2003 Ford excursion (LMD, V10, gas). I filled her up with coolant and started her and turned on the air full blast.
Noticed though that she is now leaking somewhere between the engine and the transmission pan.Where and what to check?
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Here is my current situation. No cruise, Replaced clock spring because the air bag light was also on. Still no cruise, checked fuses, they are fine, replaced bulb in gauge cluster. Still no light coming on at all, so I can't do the self test. Do you think my steering wheel switches are bad? Is there anything else I can check?
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The X 6.0 was running rough at 1700 rpm and cold it barely ran at all. The dealer did full compression test - pass with no issue. Fuel pressure regulator was bad, they replaced it. They also replaced the fuel filter. That didn't work, so back to the dealer and they diagnosed that the injectors were not optimal for about half of the cylinders. The recommendation was to replace the injectors and they gave me their quote...time for some DIY.
So, I dive in; order and install Warren rebuilt stock injectors (new down tubes and dummy plugs as well). I also went ahead and replaced both oil cooler and screen as well as the EGR cooler with an aFE improved design. I also noted the Turbo was throwing oil into the intake so I replaced the turbo with the PowerMax. Additionally, I replaced the FICM with a BulletProof unit set at 53V. Heck, I went ahead and installed an XPD coolant filter system as well.
Got the X back up and running this weekend and she runs nice, smooth and with authority. So far so good.
This morning I start her up, notice that she isn't running as smoothly. I drive and now the X is not running with that real authority (not as much power but she runs) and I note that some roughness is once again apparent at 1700 RPM.
Obviously, all of this work didn't take care of the root of the problem. What else could cause this issue? Will Rev-X take care of it (I'll get some of that ASAP)? How did she run so well for a few miles and now the problem is coming back?
I have the PHP FICM programmer and am looking to install that next but I doubt that will eliminate the root problem. I don't want to get frustrated so I'm trying to approach this systematically.
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I have a 2004 Big X. Original alternator was replaced as it only was producing 9 volts under a load. Replacement alternator failed within a day. Did I just get a bad re-manufactured one or would something else cause failure?
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I replaced the motor mounts, and now there is a vibration at speed (70 or so). I've taken it to Michigan and back, so it is probably broken in. Can these things be put in improperly?
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I bought my Excursion about 3 months ago. So far I've replaced the Alt and battery all because it randomly die on me. I guess no the issue isnt the Alt or battery but an error P0231.
P0231 Low Voltage Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit
[URL]....
I've replaced what I thought was the fuse but not 100 percent sure. I cleared the error message and now it's still doing the random turn off. Now I'm getting an error P1000. Tried google search with very little success.
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Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
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My 2002 Excursion was rear ended. Body shop replaced the bumper. I noticed that the reverse aid was no longer working. I checked and noticed that non of the sensors were working. It was working before they replaced the bumper. If the speaker is out, would the four rear sensor still tick? I find it mighty strange, that it worked before and after the accident. Now that they've replaced the bumber, Every time it's placed in reverse, the light comes on.
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I have a Honda Accord 2004 Hybrid with 85,000 miles on it. My IMA and check engine light went on less than 2 months ago, and the dealer replaced the starter battery and it was "fixed". Less than 2 months later the same thing happened and the dealer claims that the hybrid battery is failing, need to replace it, and they can't do this anyhow because the part is backordered "indefinitely". Honda extended the hybrid battery to 80,000 miles but you are over the limit. So here's my question:
1. Can the car be driven without the hybrid battery, just using gas engine, without risk of getting stuck somewhere?
2. Is there any other remedy that would be less costly?
3. Was this a known problem that I should have been warned about when I bought the car.
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I have a '96 Honda Civic DX model, manual transmission. I replaced the battery, sparkplugs, distributor last summer. Yesterday, hottest day yet this spring, my car wouldn't start. When cranked, the lights came on the dash, the fuel line was running, the check engine light blinked, but then no ignition. Left it overnight, started up fine this morning. Took it to a shop,Mechanic said battery and alternator were good and a replaced starter later, I took it home. Driving home, the idle dropped way too low (no tach) and almost stalled the car (battery light came on) when I pushed in the clutch. Now when I turn it on, it starts, idles regular, then the idle drops again.
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I've replaced the rear sensor and the two front ones on my 2002 Ltd, but the lights still on! It's driving me crazy...what now?
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