Ford Excursion :: ABS Light Stayed On
Nov 14, 2013
Last night I changed out my alternator and charged the batteries on my Excursion. When I went to start it up the ABS light stayed on. I scanned for codes but no luck there.
View 2 RepliesLast night I changed out my alternator and charged the batteries on my Excursion. When I went to start it up the ABS light stayed on. I scanned for codes but no luck there.
View 2 RepliesSo I get in my X today and she fires right up as usual... Then the battery light started blinking then stayed on... Then I hear a click and all my stock gauges go out my window and lock switches don't work and my radio doesn't work... Battery light stays on and all signals work as do the mirrors and everything else... I turn the truck off then back on it all comes back on.. 15-20 seconds later I hear the click and all the same stuff is off again.... No seemingly applicable fuses are blown... And the behavior is repeatable...
View 14 Replies97 Ford F150 4.6 V8 230+ thousand miles. Driving this morning, the ABS light came on and started blinking then the blinking stoped for a minute but the light stayed on. It did this several times untill reaching the destination. The brakes worked properly the whole time. Started the truck after shutting it down and the ABS light stayed on and the shifter would not come out of Park. What could be causing the light to blink and is the shifter not moving related to the light?
View 3 RepliesSo a week ago, I had a good load of sod in my 05 F150 4WD. After a few miles, the ABS light came on and has stayed on. Will this go back off by itself after a time, or is this a get it fixed deal? Tried unhooking the battery, but no luck.
View 14 RepliesSo I get in my X today and she fires right up as usual... Then the battery light started blinking then stayed on... Then I hear a click and all my stock gauges go out my window and lock switches don't work and my radio doesn't work... Battery light stays on and all signals work as do the mirrors and everything else... I turn the truck off then back on it all comes back on.. 15-20 seconds later I hear the click and all the same stuff is off again.... No seemingly applicable fuses are blown... And the behavior is repeatable...
View 4 Replies98 Ranger 4.0..4WD ex CabXLT Automatic..started the engine yesterday and my charge light came on and stayed on. Checked the guage and it showed no charging and then slowly began to charge and the light went out. If I rev the engine above 2,000RPM's the charge needle starts to drop but if I keep RPM's below 2,000 charging is okay. Is this the sign of a failing alternator? The belt only has about 20,000 miles on it and tension seems oksy
View 4 RepliesI gave my truck a little more gas to hold my speed up the hill to my exit and as I did the truck downshifted. As it downshifted, my tranny light on the dash came on and stayed on. I drove the mile or so from exit to my parking lot and here it sits. Drives fine, shifts fine, and doesn't smell. It needs to be able to make that hour long drive home Thursday night. Is it okay to drive? Is there something I need to do? It's an 06 F-250 5.4.
View 9 RepliesSo my truck drove great to ocean city MD this weekend. Power is perfect again, feels really tight. But now I have having to additional problems.
1) My alt light had been flickering a couples times a month. Last night it came on and stayed on. Lots of threads about this I Know!
I am hoping that cleaning and tightening the connections will do the trick since the alt is a Bosch with only 25k miles or so. But I want to order a rebuild kit:
is my alt a 3G or a 3G8429?
F SERIES | Alternator Starter Rebuild Kits
2) I started to have a ticking at idle. Its very regular and sounds like its coming from the passenger side valve cover. In random threads I have read about timing chain guides breaking and loose rocker arms.
Most of the time its 3 ticks in a row and then a pause. Should I be pulling the valve cover? Think I need to R&R the timing chain? I will post a video later!
1999 Olds Intrigue, 3.8 eng.Last month, I replaced the Oil Level sensor while changing the oil, which was causing an oil leak due to a broke seal. Three weeks later, the "Low Oil" light came on and stayed on shortly after starting the car. I checked the oil level and it was full. I went ahead and drove it to work. No engine operating errors during the drive. While continuing to drive the car (yes, driving it), I did notice that the light stays off after starting the engine at operating temps, but comes on while the engine is cool (Faulty sensor?) I asked an Autozone associate about a Oil Pressure gauge to test the engine but was told that they dont sell such a thing. Chiltons repair manual says to use a 3amp fuse jumper to test the Oil Level and Oil Pressure sensor. What a fuse jumper is.
View 5 RepliesSo today I was playing around with a Honda civic from light to light with my 2012 v6 AWD Santa fe. After lighting the tires up on the first light I decided to hit the AWD lock switch.
Second stop light was great, my suv launched and before I knew it I was doing 100km/h. Only problem is my AWD light stayed on and didn't disengage? Is this normal?... I could be wrong but I think my check engine light flashed but I'm not 100% on that.
Yesterday morning, when starting my 2010 Prius, the red BRAKE light stayed on, and also the yellow Traction Control light and yellow ABS light. The brakes seemed less than usual. Dealer says the left rear caliper froze up, causing the ABS sensor to melt, causing the system to go into fail-safe mode (no regenerative braking).
I have done no hard braking, the car is currently getting over 50 mpg, and has only 57,368 miles on it. I checked the brake fluid level, it looks fine. Also shut down and restarted several times, no change, lights still on.
I had the oil changed in my 2009 Prius but the "change oil" light stayed lit. Rather than taking it back in to the Jiffy Lube, I found instructions on this site for resetting the light (hold down odometer button while pressing on button twice, etc.) and the display did what it was supposed to--the numbers were replaced with dashes and it seemed like the system reset. But the oil light remained on. I tried it several times to no avail.
View 11 RepliesThis morning I went out to warm my car up for a few minutes because it has been so cold and when I started it the red triangle warning light stayed on and the consumption screen said "problem" across the top with a little icon in the upper left hand corner that looked similar to a high beam headlight indicator. I turned the car off and started it again wondering if it would clear which it did not. I left it running and went inside to get my child and by the time I came out it had cleared itself.
In typing this I recall that I thought it stayed on a little longer than normal the other day and just ignored it thinking it was still in lamp test mode on initial start up.
I recently had my tpms light turn on when I started my car in the morning. It blinked for about a minute and then stayed on. After checking my tire pressure and seeing they were all normal, I checked online and found that when the tpms light acts like it is for me, it means there is a malfunction somewhere, so rather than deal with trying to fix it, I went into vagcom to turn it off. I went to the proper byte/box for tpms and unchecked it. But the light is still on...
View 14 RepliesI have 2006 Honda civic my SRS indicator light came on and stayed on about a week and a half ago, Today while driving the car i turned the steering wheel and the horn went on by itself and even stayed on for a minute. Later the volume on the radio went off when i turned the steering wheel and then the cruise control light came on and stayed on, i can't' turn it off. The horn no longer works.
View 2 RepliesRandomly, on my way home from work yesterday, the ECS light turned on, and stayed on for about 10 miles.
I got home, turned the car on and off, even drove around for 10 more minutes, and the light never turned back on.
Now this morning, on my way to work, the light popped back on and stayed on.
I have a 2011 Santa Fe, 4 cylinder.
This is regarding a 2007 santa fe.
Today I noticed my airbag warning light came on and stayed on driving to the store. At the store, I locked the doors with the remote, but when trying to set the alarm (second click of the remote) it would not arm (no lights/horn). About 30 seconds later, the alarm then sounded on its own. Had to hit "unlock" on the remote. 30 sec later, the door locks by itself (as it should) but then again, 30 sec after that, the alarm sounds.
Don't know if the airbag light and alarm issue are related. Sounds like a possible electrical issue. We're bringing it in next week anyways, but if it's something simple that I can look for, it will save my wife a trip and gas.
So, for the first time in 6 years and 82K miles, the engine light (malfunction indicator light) came on while driving and stayed on (no blinking... knock on wood). This is about a week after passing the emissions test. I turned the gas cap three ticks, so I'm hoping that the light will go off in a few days.
The manual seems to say that if it blinks you should proceed at reduced power and get it checked out immediately. Do I have to drive slow if it's not blinking? I'm a good two hours from home and I'd prefer to drive at my normal pace. This is probably nothing, right?
I have a 2003 pontiac grand am gt 3.4. About 5 days ago my change oil light came on and did not have time to do it at that point. Then 1 day later my service vehicle soon light came on, I thought it was due to the change oil light being on. Then next day, I changed my oil and pushed the reset button in, let the light flash then held it in until the change oil light went out. But my service vehicle light stayed on, took it to AutoZone and they put the scanner on it and the scanner did not show one thing wrong. So I had him clear the code and the light stayed of for about 10 seconds then came right back on! Is it a faulty issue or what?
View 8 Replies1992 Honda Accord with 104,000 miles automatic transmission..was my mom's car and has been consistently maintained and serviced and gently driven!!The car performs well until...about 3 weeks ago when it starting revving up and the D4 light stayed on even when I was in reverse. Idling high and Drove like the car was in high gear.
Mechanic #1 checked the gear position switch and checked connection at Trans ECM. After unplugging and re-pluging in connector system functioned properly. And it did for about one week. then we were back to the same problem and it was clear that the car was not shifting like it should.
Mechanic #2 didn't provide much feedback: he emphatically stated that it was a transmission problem and that the trans would absolutely need to be rebuilt: price quote: $3500 including labor. I'm scratching my head at this point & reaching for the aspirin..as little as I know about cars I'm wondering how a transmission needs to be rebuilt at 104k?
Oh well..as much as I like this car, I don't want to put in $3500 and hope for the best. Mechanic #3 is a Hondo maven..and he says it's not the transmission...this is what he says: checked for codes; found none. Reset Transmission computer by removing power to it resulting in the car running better and D4 light if off. He advises that we Wait & See if problem happens again.. He suspects a possible electrical problem. Car does drive better and the D4 light remains off but when I get on the freeway the car seems stressed and noisy and when I decelerate, it's noisy. I am waiting for the other foot to drop.
I got a 2013 Turbo. This morning I gave it 90% throttle and I got shaking, check Engine light flashed on and stayed on until I layed off the gas. It drives fine under regular throttle, but for ie. Passing someone on the highway.. Yeah ain't happening, idk if it just won't downshift, or the turbo is acting up.
I have an Injen intake and Had it installed since day one or two of ownership. Bought the car brand new, it has 43k miles, and I usually give it WOT a few times a day ()
But it's weird how all of a sudden it's doing this, I tried restarting the car, leaving it to rest for a while and same result. I personally think it's the tranny not being able to downshift, even holding a gear at high RPM, it shakes. Turbo sounds like it's working fine but who knows what's going on under the hood.