Ford Excursion :: A/C Shuts Off Intermittently?
Jul 21, 2007
We are having an air conditioning issue with our '03 6.0 Excursion so...
Since about 60,000 miles our air conditioner will Intermittently shut off (meaning the actual head or face unit in the dash is or does not have any power to it). Yes...I have checked fuses, and the possibility of any disconnected wiring and have found no issues. It will eventually just start working again without fail. (Note: Of course this only happens when we are in extreme weather conditions = River/Desert 110+)
Recently it stopped working - after an air conditioning service (recharge) so I took it back to the dealer in Arizona that performed the service. The advisor told me (without checking with a tech) that it was most likely a "head unit" that was out and it would cost about 1000.00 to replace. He also stated that he "sees this alot" and that they have replaced many.
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My dads f150 shuts off intermittently while driving it. He has to pull over and wait about 5 minutes until it restarts again. We have tried replacing the fuel filter, still shuts off! Some one pointed out the coil!? I am thinking that it might be the switch. It might be bad, shorting out and shutting down the truck?
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So for 90,000 miles my reverse sensing system worked like a dream, now suddenly it shuts itself off intermittently. No codes stored in the system.
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We own a 2006 Volvo S40 2.4i. Occasionally, when my daughter is driving at very low speeds, such as braking when approaching a stop sign or stop light, or when she is accelerating from a stop, the engine shuts off, forcing her to stop the vehicle, put the car in park, and restart the engine. Fortunately, the engine always restarts. Unfortunately, however, the problem only occurs intermittently. It may happen twice within an hour, and then not again for two or three weeks. As a result, the problem has not been duplicated by the dealer or any other repair shop. And, when plugged into the computer, none of the codes show up. So far the dealer has removed carbon from the throttle valve control unit and replaced the alternator. But the problem continues. Not sure what do to next as the dealer says he is baffled.
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My Radio shuts off at moments of high power usage. Like with the lights all on, blower motors on high, and having the anti locks kick in.
When this happens, I can watch my voltage gauge drop down to 12v or so. Was thinking a Capacitor would solve the issue.
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When I hit the brakes hard on slick surfaces, the radio shuts off. Black screan, and all. Hit the power button, the clock lights up, hit the power button again, and than than it turns back on. Where to look?? I was thinking a weak alternator maybe.
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My cruise light will activate but won't hold speed, it shuts off when I tap the brakes. I did the self test and it went through complete. All buttons worked. After the test it did not show any blinks which according to the chart shows speed control switch faulty, I replaced the switch and does the exact same thing. The recall was also done.
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My Ex has started giving me trouble cranking over. I though that it might just be bad terminals so I replaced them with no luck. Every now and then when I turn it over it just clicks. Sometimes it does this two or three times and then starts. My guess is that its time for a starter, just want to make sure there is nothing else I should check first.
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So yesterday I got off the interstate and stopped to get lunch. When I came back out to start the X all I got was a cranking engine but no fire. After two passes I got out and lifted the hood to take a look...everything looked normal. Got back in and cranked it again for 20 seconds or so and it fired up. Today it works fine. Fires up on first crank.
New battery. Starter engaged. No engine warning lights showing. Did fill up tank and add a quart of oil before I started and drove about two hours. Anything like vapor lock possible with fuel injection?
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The clutch is on 2 seconds and off 2 seconds, and there is a click up on top that clicks every 2 seconds ?..........no cold air either.
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I have a 2001 5.4L excursion that intermittently shakes (feels like rumble strips/rough pavement) usually at 45-50 mph when the rpms are between 1500-2000. Increasing or decreasing rpms stopps the shaking. What could this be? I'm trying to figure out how much I might have to pay for repairs (pretty sure I'm not up to diying this one) without an expensive estimate.
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I have a 2000 with the v10 4x4 with 130,000 miles problem started one day when putting on brakes the peddle felt like it pulsated a little like the abs had activated, then a couple of minutes later the light came on. Did not do again and the light went off, started doing it on and off every so often same thing. Took to private machenic he checked all the brakes and found the pins froze up on one in the back and one in the front. Took home did it again, took back he ran codes and found the vss coded changed it did it again before I got home.
Took back drove mechenic around with scanner hooked up did it again and showed code for vss. Got on here did search and could not find anything that really matched what I have happening. Seen several threads about the cops causing this but when it happens to me I dont lose my speedo or gauges only the abs light comes on and then after a while goes off. Now the light is coming on sometimes without hitting the brakes. The only other thing the mechenic said when we drove around was that the front wheel sensors one was reading a couple of mph faster than the other one untill you hit 20mph than they both read the same. going back to shop Wednesday but we dont have a clue where to go next.
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Came on intermittently other day, got it home then did not start. Charged for a bit, it started on the charger then off the charger a few times I assumed out was the alternator just replaced it. Battery light now on continually, hope I didn't destroy two batteries driving out for 20 mom after light first illuminated, they already to be only one year old. In addition to the ABS light now and the brakes feel unboosted? Hopefully fuses popped?
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Pulled the codes and erased them a few days ago for the first time and now it's about a once a day thing. I can drive for 2-3 stops and then I come out of a place, get in the truck, and when I start it up I have the light and the OD flashing.
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Been noticing this lately. Kinda smells like coolant I think but it's intermittent and for a short period of time. Notice it more when turning the heater on or when setting the temp to a higher setting.
Havent noticed any leaks on the carpet. Heater core? Why intermittent?
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I had had intermittent issues with the cruise control not working in my excursion. most of the time it was fine though. after a recent 150 mile trip it stopped working half way through. i didnt worry about it too much..got back into town and checked under the hood. i found brake fluid running down the inner fender well! all over everything under the master cylinder. finally tracked it down to the cruise control switch on the master cylinder leaking. I pulled the plug apart and it was full of brake fluid.
Meanwhile the master cylinder was about half full, so i replaced it with the same switch out of a '96 parts explorer which is the same part luckily. also yes i have had the cruise control recall done. So if you have lost CC and you have a leak replace the switch! seems it can leak..and at a pretty good rate..alittle scary! glad i figured it out before my 800+ mile trip later this week/weekend.
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I've been having a problem lately where I'm driving down the road and the brake light comes on and starts binging. I stop push the parking brake and release it a few times, then the light goes out and I'm on my way. Sometimes when I first release it the light doesn't extinguish and sometimes it is never on. I'm guessing there is a switch somewhere for the parking brake that isn't working so great. Is it around the pedal or somewhere in the brakes themselves? Is this a typical problem?
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I have a 2000 X V10 and am having an intermittent high idle condition. I have searched the forums and found some useful info but nothing that addresses this issue. Here's what I've done. New IAC, found PCV valve hose leaking-replaced also new valve, found another vacuum leak-repaired, tested TPS and that was fine according to the specs I found. So here's my problem-upon starting engine occasionally "stumbles" then roars to life idles 8-1100rpm. Drives well till stopping at an intersection and idles 1100-1200 rpm.(lots of brake) Can pull into parking spot place in park and will idle up 1500-1800 rpm and then only drop to 1200 or so. I have checked everything I know. ALL these idle conditions are INTERMITTENT. (and yes I did check for codes "0" ) There is no loss of power.
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Cuz then there wouldn't be nothing wrong with my radio. So my factory 6 disc stereo has been giving me guff. Sometimes when I start my X it comes on normally and other times it puts out no sounds. Like the display is working just fine and i can turn the volume up and down and see the bars move across the display like the volume is changing but there's no actual volume from the speakers. Sometimes I never get output from the speakers for my entire 30 minute drive and other times it may just instantly without warning start playing over the speakers.
When it's not working changing stations or changing to cd/dvd doesn't fix it. It's completely random? I've been searching the net for issues like this and I've found a Taurus forum and a poster had the same issue with his factory Taurus stereo. He replace the RCM, which I assume is a radio control module, and it fixed the issue. Does the excursion have an RCM?
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2002 Ford Excursion cruise control inoperable. Problem began when cruise would come on intermittently. I would push the on button then set, at which point the green cruise icon light would either come on and the cruise would set or she would flash and not set. Sometimes holding the switch down worked, other times not. Now no matter what I do the cruise will not engage.
I have had the recall done for the cruise control by the dealership.
I have checked the fuse on the recall module, the 2.5 is in good shape and not blown.
I also found this guide to a self test (copied below). I used the test, turning the key on with the off button depressed yields a green speed icon light. Letting go and pressing on yields a green flash as well. But when I move on to pressing resume I get no lights at all, same if I continue through the other switches, no more lights.
Here is the self test guide -
*cruise control self test
Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo.
Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL. If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch. NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.
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Went for a drive last night in my "new" 2002, 4wd and which brought up some newbe excursion owner questions. First of all it has 95,000 miles on it and it is a V10. I noticed a clunk sound from the back of vehicle intermittently. u joints?, rear springs? or rear end?
Noticed that the front springs looked like they were sagging, is this normal or do I have an excuse to lift it? Also the shocks appear to be the original units and I figure that they are going to be on their way out. In the past I had good results with KYB gas-a just on a old F250 2wd.
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