Ford Excursion :: A/C Is Leaking Where 2 Lines Go Into Condenser
Jun 28, 2015
Ac is leaking where the 2 lines go into the condenser. I went to Ford and bought OEM o-rings thinking it would be an easy fix. HA! New o-rings were put in by a mom and pop garage. Still leaking. Guy said it wasn't, but with my uv light I could clearly see the dye. Went to a recommended guy. He took it apart, cleaned the hoses where the o-rings sit. They were kinda dirty from leakage and stuff so he cleaned them up with a wire brush and 2000 grit.
Recharged, and we both looked with his huge uv light. Bad condenser, drivers side lit up like a night light. Replaced the condenser with an aftermarket condenser. Recharged, STILL LEAKING from where the hoses go into the condenser. Vacuumed down the system... Removed hoses, checked o-ring fit. They are snug on the hoses and have some resistance when plunging the hoses back in. What gives? I'm 360.00 into this this week...
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I have a 2000 Excursion and it appears the AC lines going into the condenser are leaking. I had a local shop replace them, vac and recharge the system for 96.00. The ac was never really cold, and he used a vac pump and gauges to recharge. He said he thought there was enough refrig in the system for me. I got tired of just cold air so I put a small bomb in the system tonight and woah, I had ice cold air again. I noticed that where he replaced the O-rings, it appeared to be oily again! I went to a friends house and he as the glasses and UV light and we could see the dye around the connections where the hoses bolt to the condenser. We cleaned em off with brake cleaner and will recheck tomorrow afternoon. How odd is it to have the O-rings replaced and then have it leak again? I know he did not use OEM O-rings. I do not think its the condenser, we can only see the die on the fitting and around the flange of the hoses.it is easy enough to replace the condenser and it is not labor intensive. I called the shop and he said it would be about 25.00 plus a recharge but he doesn't know its leaking AGAIN. Should I go and replace the condenser as well? This image doesn't show the lightly wetness around the flanges.... but here it is.
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I believe my rear AC lines in my 2003 EB V10 X pooped the bed on me today and Ford wants 3K to fix. I'm wondering if I could fix it my self. The leak was a bright green color so I'm assuming it was 134 or what ever in in the AC. The leak is right behind the passenger side of the motor just a little lower than the head. The dealer wants to replace almost everything for 3k but they don't want to budge on just repairing the broken line.
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I bought a 2002 Limited EX, 164K on a 7.3 diesel, its been a California truck its whole life, but still has some "rust" on it... I'm sure it can mostly be wiped away with a rag and some solvent . I mostly bought this vehicle to tow my track car around (1993 Mazda RX7) and so my friends can be comfortable while I drag them all over to be my pit crew - the rear captains chairs are a sweet feature.
Unfortunately this is the only picture I have right now... At the pump...
First things to address were the EBPS and EBPS tube, replaced those today... And the HPOP is leaking a bit from one of the lines I think, I ordered some gaskets and whatnot from Riffraff and will address that next weekend.
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Noticed Tranny Fluid under the Ex last week and after further inspection, it is definitely the lines rusted, by the end of the week it was leaking pretty good with the motor running. Picked up the lines from Ford and bought a 5 gal pail of MerconV from NAPA. Going to replace the tranny fluid after I replace the lines. 109k on the truck and never serviced the trans. Never had an issue with this truck, shifts nice and tight. Found Mark W's Fluid Changing procedure which looks pretty simple.
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Is the A/C condenser pretty simple to replace on the 2006 F350? Replaced the compressor but then noticed the condenser was leaking. Looks simple just wondering if there are any quirks to it.
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I hit a Turkey running across a back country road the other day . Never took flight. Shortly after that I lost my AC. I took a quick look at the front of the truck and saw no damage. The next day I found the grill lower chrome bar cracked and the AC condenser bent and leaking.
I had to replace those items plus the plastic support frame that all the chrome pieces are attached to. And recharge the AC. Hard to imagine the damage done since I could not stick 2 fingers thru the support grating. Been looking at Grill Guards but not thrilled with the look .
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What the black spongy tar like substance on the a/c condenser pipes in the rear of my Ex are? It's is put on at the factory but no one at Ford or anywhere else I've been can tell me what it is. I'm relatively sure it keeps the pipes from sweating.
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I have been told my AC hose from the Compressor to the Condenser is leaking. How much time do I have to get repaired before AC stops cooling. Can I just get the hose replaced and about how much should it cost? This is a 2000 model.
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Blew a hole in the 3/16 inch line to the rear on the left frame rail, behind the gas tank. Lost all brake function.
Got the truck home and inspected. The line was rusted bad about 6 ft long from the connection at the rear hose to the axle, up to the rear seat area ( crew cab). From the drivers seat forward, the line looks very good. The line across the rear axle from left to right looks very good. I bought two 50 inch standard lines 3/16 inch. Started at the rear hose connection 6 inches behind the gas tank and ran forward to the rear seat area.
Cut about 32 inches of the other 51 inch line and connected and ran forward to below the front seat area. There is a metric connector at this point. I cut an inch in front of it to eliminate it. NAPA sells a high psi compression fitting ( steel , 10,000#) that you can connect two 3/16 inch lines together. I did that under the drivers foot area. I have done two different 2002 F150s in the last year due to this failure. Something to look into. Not nice to loose brakes in traffic.
If your worried about the steel compression fitting, don't. I have used these on several cars and trucks over the last 15 years. Make sure you get the STEEL high pressure compression fitting. Total line replaced on CREW cab, 51 + 32 inches. Pops right back into the original plastic clamps.... I might mention, that is where the failure was, under the plastic clamp at the rear end of the gas tank area.......... crud must collect on the clamp.
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I am experiencing leaking cooler lines at the turbo. I thought it was only the line coming from the side of the turbo, but it looks like it could be the one going into the top. Can I safely remove the line from the front of the engine without interfering with the other metal lines directly in front of it. See the pic. This is the front of the engine under the turbo.
Also, the fitting in the pictures is not leaking. Can I replace the metal line without replacing the threaded connector going into the engine or does it have to be replaced with the line? I already have parts BC3Z-6A968-C and BC3Z-9U469-A for the line coming out of the side. What is the part #s for the other line pictured?
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2002 4.6 SC with towing package... Transmission cooling lines to radiator leaking. Replacing them? How long does it take, can it be done while working on the ground? Any tricks or problems to look out for?
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I've got the front of the excursion done with my spring swap finally and now it's onto the rear. How do I move these ac lines along the passenger side to get them out of the way from that shackle bolt? I see the brackets holding them but since they are all hard lines how many do I have to remove?
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I am going to be changing my brake lines in the rear and to the rear of my X. i ordered the rubber lines. what i would like to know is the part number for the steel axle tube line and the line that runs the from from front to back.. I don't know if it matters but when i looked up the left caliper line I had to get it for to 12/20/99...
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I'm 1/2 way through a flush and water pump replacement. Its going to get cold and I don't want to blow any heater lines. I have the pump off and the block drained (I also managed to get some coolant into the block - but not the rear heat).
I don't see an easy place at the front to disconnect the lines. I'd like to blow them out just to be safe. What is the best place to disco in the front or if I even need to - can I just disco 1 in the rear and then blow in both direction?
I fear that there may be some vent door closed that will prevent flow. I can't start the truck - I can turn the key on.
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Is it a do it yourself job to replace brake lines. Never done it before or even seen it done. Special tools required? Will the auto parts store know exactly what I need? Are these questions answering my question?(don't do it) ...
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So, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
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Next on my list of needed repairs is new brake lines. The ones running along the frame are rusted pretty bad. I had a 89 F-150 bust a line once and it got real interesting so I would like to change these before that happens.
I have searched and still not gotten a clear answer as to whether I need to get a scan tool and do something with the ABS pump. I would like to know if the scan tool is necessary.
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I have a transmission cooler attached to my transmission. The lines that connect it are leaking around the crimp fittings. I figured if i just cut the fittings off and used 3/8 fuel line, would i be ok. I am afraid that i might get some air into the lines and mess my transmission up...
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Saw a decent amount of oil residue and when I pulled the intercooler there were areas of the plastic deformed and a fairly large oil/air leak.
Truck is completely stock (93K miles) so was wondering what root cause of this might be? Just a failure of the component from age? Boost too high, suggesting an issue with the turbo?
CAC boot that connected closest to the damage may have been leaking, but not sure if that could cause that much oil spray?
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Seems my oil was leaking from my oil filter. I recently changed the oil a month ago but it didn't leak until a few days ago. I used a mobile 1 filter. I read that some people have issues with other filters other than motorcraft sometimes leak. I changed it with a motorcraft and it isnt leaking anymore. Could have just been a bad seal on the mobile 1..not sure
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