So I was doing my coolant flush yesterday and turned on the heat, both front and rear, to move any old coolant out of piping and cores. I notice that the rear was not blowing as "warm" as the front.
I did notice that the compressor was clicking on and off the whole time. A/c pipes coming off of accumulator were freezing up/getting cold/frosty.
Is it normal for the compressor to do this when the heat is on?
I have a 1998 Explorer XLT V6 (4.0 SOHC) with an AC problem. The AC compressor will not turn on via normal means - turn to AC or AC Max, rotate temp to left. It hasn't been a problem as I never use the AC, but I'm fixing a few of the minor inconveniences (dash lamps, re-solder radio) and figured, why not look at the AC too.
A while back my mechanic said he used the Explorer to test his AC equipment and made sure the Freon was good. He said everything was working. I am assuming he was able to control the AC system from his tools under the hood. This tells me the system is good and the problem is related to the temperature control or a switch somewhere.
Ok so I have another issue. This is one of three right now. Had the truck flat bedded home due to a seized rear caliper. Carrier bearing is causing vibration, will replace that this weekend. My question is does the ac compressor spin even if the ac or heat isn't on? Mine wasn't spinning today when the truck was idling. Should it always spin and just not be "engaged " my ect was quite high too but I thought that was due to the locked up brake.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Mazda B3000. The a/c compressor is coming on while I'm running my heat. The air coming out while the heat is on stays warm. However, when I was running the A/C during the summer the air would start blowing out warm after it had been on for a while. Several people told me it may have something to do with the blend door or blend door actuator but both appear to be working fine. What it could be?
View 1 RepliesWhen I turn the control to heat the AC compressor kicks in. If turned to vent it does not kick in. Was this just a design flaw.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 F-350 S/D w/7.3. Question is... Is it possible for the mode switch ( one controls floor/ defrost and A/c ) to not function or should I say leave the a/c on even if it is not in a/c position? What I have noticed was that when it is in the floor mode or the vent mode (not the floor/vent) the compressor does not come on. When it is in vent/floor or either a/c modes it does. Is this normal... I don't think so though I do know anytime the a/c is switched on compressor should come on but no time without a/c being on.. Maybe I'm wrong
View 9 RepliesI have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 4.0L and here recently my ac compressor has been making a loud click noise engaging even though i am not using heat or AC, so when it engages the rpms drop and almost wants to stall and it does this in about 10-15 sec. intervals, but when I am driving it acts fine. What is going on here, I recently had a vacuum leak and i found it and fixed it, and now this issue just started.
View 2 RepliesThe AC on my 2002 Prius works fine, as long as it's cool outside and I'm running it on low. As soon as I stress the system -- either it's above 75 degrees outside, or I'm running it on maximum, or driving on the highway for more than 30 minutes -- the compressor conks out. Fan's still blowing, but no cold air. The light on the a/c button starts flashing. If I turn it off for a few seconds, the cold air comes on again, but usually only for a few minutes, and then we repeat the cycle. The Toyota mechanics claimed they couldn't replicate the problem, but I bet if I forced them to ride with me up and down the highway on a 90-degree day with the windows up and no a/c, they'd believe me.
View 18 RepliesModel is 2006 2.2l Diesel (Europe - so second gen)
I've noticed that as the weather has gotten cooler my heater just doesn't heat up at all under normal driving conditions. I can see the actuators moving at the back of the unit and the car seems to get up to temperature fine.
When climate control is set to auto the A/C seems to come on intermittently which I find quite odd even when I have the temperature up quite high. If I leave the car in park and rev the engine heat will start to come through the vents, but this doesn't really represent normal driving conditions.
I have noticed small patches up water under the car when it's parked, so assumed there was a water leak, but when I top up the water it quickly overflows. So I'm thinking it might be an airlock maybe?
I'm really stuck, just want to see if there is anything I can rule out before I drop it into a garage to see if they can get to the bottom of it.
So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
Twice in the last year my 1999 Ranger (@138,000 miles) has started running very loudly: I checked dash and see oil pressure gauge says no oil pressure. First time this happened, I pulled over, had it towed. At garage they start it up: gauge normal, they check oil says its OK. I take it to the dealership, they replace sending unit, but can't explain why it was running loudly. Today same thing happens: I checked oil pressure gauge, it's OK. After an hour, starts running loudly, gauge in red. Park car for 15 - 20 minutes, start it up: all is well: gauge OK, running quietly. This is amy 'spare' car, so it only gets driven 1 -2 times per month, short distances.
View 4 RepliesIts a first Generation I have had about a year, had some of the typical issues with a vehicle this old---bad connection with a relay under hood, cracked fan blade, IAC, nothing I could not find.
Temp (issue is getting worse) runs up to high end of "Normal" yet I note radiator does not seem overly hot. (to the touch).
Antifreeze tests very good and is full---no signs of leaks or liquid in the oil.
I am hoping thermostat or radiator===vehicle has been well maintained and does not show rust in the coolant, and no signs of leakage around the pump or anywhere else---coolant level does not drop.
I am planning on removing the thermostat and seeing if same issue with it removed====it should rule that out or not----
It is not boiling over but just running towards the high end of the normal area.
So here's my problem; my 05 Excursion has a v10 and now it does not idle correctly. At a stop sign and in gear it idles anywhere between 900 to 1200 rpms. Normally it should be idling around 750. I just noticed this as I had to apply more brake pressure to keep from driving through an intersection. Since this has happened I have changed the air filter and fuel filter. Do you think I need a computer reset, or something else?
View 14 RepliesI have a 98 ford explorer just changed the alternator and now its running rough also it sounds louder than normal from the muffler. I am clueless, what the problem can be?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1994 F-250 that we have changed the thermostat, radiator, water pump, cap, hoses, and installed a spring fan. New heads. Hot heat in the heater. It runs normal at highway speed for around 10 or 12 miles and gets hot. pull up and idle and the temp retracts. Even the block has been blown thru. What could possibly be the problem?
View 2 RepliesMy temp gauge (which very seldom deviated form its position) is showing above normal temps. Yeah its over 90 here but this is unusual for my car to run hotter. I put in a new thermostat about 3 years ago. I've also been adding water/anti-freeze because there was a small leak (that I finally found in the hose) that I corrected. Could it be that my mixture isn't a 50/50 mix or is it my thermostat again? They say they don't last long anymore???
View 1 RepliesWell I've thrown out the situation of having low freon for discussion earlier and of course consensus is a leak. I added freon by way of one of those guage on the can deals and it seemed to be mostly ok for a while. Today it was around 90 degrees--doggy and I were on a road trip. What started off as a comfortable trip became progressively warmer. I noted the rear air was blowing warm air--not "not as cold air" like what you'd expect from the vents being in the ceiling. Got back home and hooked up my new manifold gauges I had ordered which of course, were in metric.
Long story short, I added some freon but while the low side pressure seems to be in the proper range, the high side pressure is very low, as in not much higher than the low side. The compressor comes on for approximately 1 second and goes off. Both sides have a pressure drop when it comes on-maybe the low side dips a hair below ideal but I am perplexed-or actually lacking knowledge. I know this is going to be a professional's issue for me, but what could be going on. I read a little on the expansion valve but I guess I am wondering if there is anyway to narrow down the problem--guess it comes from always trying to learn stuff.
I am having heat issues with my 2004 Prius. Recently it has been difficult for the defroster to keep the windshield clear and the heat output is clearly not normal. It's chilly here in Vermont so having heater is important. I have been doing some reading in this forum and have gained some insight into how the heating system works.
One observation I notice is that the radiator does not seem to get hot at all. If I open the cap on clear overfill tank under the hood it appears to be full. In fact the coolant seems to be circulating through this tank. If I dunk my finger into the fluid it is only warm. There is a warning about not opening when hot but it is not hot so I can open it.
As I sit in the car I can hear liquid circulating through in the dash board area. When I change heater setting to enable different vents and defrost each change produces sounds that would make me believe the mechanical things are working ok. It's just not very warm.
I got a 04 V10 6.8L excursion with now all of a sudden the clutch won't engage in the compressor. Is there a shut off switch I don't know about or do I have to replace the whole compressor.
View 11 RepliesChecked fuses, relays, low pressure switch, switch on high side line. Compressor runs and gets cold when voltage is applied to compressor.
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 2005 Monte Carlo, it has the 3.4l V6. I live in Pa. and like others our winter has been real cold, I was waiting to pick up my wife from work the other day, while sitting in the car i was changing the heat selections from defrost to floor to bi-level and realized that the A/C compressor clutch is engaging when the selector is on defrost and floor, it disengages on bi-level. I know that it is supposed to engage on defrost. Is it normal for this car to activate the A/C on floor? if so it is a first for me.
View 4 Replies