Ford Excursion :: A/C Clutch Cycles Intermittently?
Sep 20, 2012
The clutch is on 2 seconds and off 2 seconds, and there is a click up on top that clicks every 2 seconds ?..........no cold air either.
View 12 RepliesThe clutch is on 2 seconds and off 2 seconds, and there is a click up on top that clicks every 2 seconds ?..........no cold air either.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Explorer with AC that is not cooling. The AC clutch engages, then cycles off and repeats the process over and over. With a gauge on the low side port, the pressure rises to around 65 psi when the compressor is off, then drops in seconds down to nearly 10 psi. Does this indicate low AC pressure? I have always seen the pressure pretty much stay static at a certain pressure....haven't ever seen it fluctuate like that from low to high as the compressor kicks in and out.
View 2 Replies2000 Explorer Sport with 4.0L SOHC engine. When I turn on the A/C the clutch on the compressor cycles off and on every 10-15 seconds. The A/C cools and the gas charge is checked as OK. Is this normal?
View 1 RepliesHow often should my A/C clutch be cycling when the compressor is being used. (i.e defrost, mix, a/c and max a/c). My clutch never cycles, it starts spinning when I turn something on and it does not shut off until I shut off the a/c. The truck is a 95 F-150 4.9L 5 speed...
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 f350 7.3 diesel. The AC clutch cycles on for 3-4 turns and then off for 45 sec. It the does it again. The low side starts to cool down and then the clutch quits. as the truck warms up the clutch quits completely. it will restart for a few times if I push in on the elec conn on the ac clutch. My Ac has quit cooling and summer is almost here.
View 1 Replies2002 - f250... I originally posted this issue in July of '03. Nothing has changed.
1. At max ac, regardless of how hot it is, the ac clutch cycles due to low pressure once the cabin temp reaches about 78 degrees. This is not acceptable or expected in my opinion.
2. I have run extensive tests, done this for years, and the conclusion is that there is too much pressure drop in the evaporator. I'm seeing 5-7 psi drop measured using a Fluke digital temp probe, insulating the probe tip around the pipe. Compare outlet of orifice tube several as far away from orifice as possible and comparing to outlet temp of evaporator where it comes out of the plastic shrowd. Convert temp to pressure.
I've seen many posts over the years of people not happy with '99 to '04 ford truck ac operation at cruising speed. I have confirmed that the compressor is cycling way too much to cool the cab down. I even ran an experiment where I completely blocked the condensor to raise the head pressure and the compressor still cycked at 1500 rpm's with the cab above 75 degrees on a 90+ degree day.
My next step is to blow out the evaporator and see how much oil and junk I get out of it. I'm also considering taking the evaporator out and trimming the rubber gasket that is around it. It is blocking about an inch of the coil face all the way around.
My conclusion still is that the evaporator just isn't loading up enough as if it's partially clogged. There is only about 2 psi drop between the outlet of the evaporator and the compressor.
The compressor cuts out at 21 psi so the low pressure cutout switch is working properly.
What should I use to flush the evaporator out? Will mineral spirits do it as long as I blow it out real well and make sure I get all of it out? Also wondering if I should blow out the condensor thinking maybe there is something clogging it up.
In spite of some folks on this forum saying it is normal for the compressor to cycle at cruising speed, that is a correct statement depending on many factors. In my case, the cycling is not normal or expected. I have also tried:
1. VOV
2. Larger orifice
3. 14 oz charge over what the sticker says
Sometimes in the morning the AC will work just fine, but after a while it stops working. It looks like the clutch will not engage and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. I'll take a picture later on today. I'm wondering which part is what, and what might be causing the problem.
View 9 Replies1997 Ranger extended cab, 222k mi., 4 cyl, standard transmission. Shifting got worse until it finally died and the mechanic replaced the clutch "kit" and slave cylinder.
It still fights back going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. But it is intermittent. If I put it in neutral, depress the clutch, and start the vehicle, then, after a few seconds wait, when I try to go into 1st (or reverse), it fights me back, forcing me to pause and apply about twice the pressure I should need to go into gear. When I go forward in 1st, and am ready to shift to 2nd, it fights back so that I have to pause just a bit and apply more pressure than I should for it to go into 2nd gear. 3rd, 4th, and overdrive are FINE. Also, the clutch seems to disengage about halfway down, where I was expecting it to disengage after only 10 -20% depression.
The mechanic doesn't see the problem (or won't admit it). Is there an adjustment to make the clutch disengage with only 10-20% depression instead of the 50%? Is that something I should be worrying about?
Is there some other problem? Like maybe the synchromesh mechanism in the transmission itself not bringing the transmission rotor to engine speed soon enough (wear on the synchromesh)?
When it was new, it went into ALL gears with ease, no fighting back, and it starrted doing this after about 150k miles. Now, at 222k mi., even with a new clutch, plate, throughout bearing, and slave cylinder, it still seems partially stuck going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse.
I just don't want to start replacing things until I can get a correct diagnosis as to what is causing the problem.
How can I determine if my compressor is bad or is the solinoid/clutch bad. Truck had sat for about 9 months-1yr. A/C hadn't been operated for an additional 5-6 months. It worked like a freezer before I parked the truck. When i started the truck back up and tried the a/c the clutch would try to spin but very intermittently, now not at all. What direction should I go?
View 9 RepliesMy Ex has started giving me trouble cranking over. I though that it might just be bad terminals so I replaced them with no luck. Every now and then when I turn it over it just clicks. Sometimes it does this two or three times and then starts. My guess is that its time for a starter, just want to make sure there is nothing else I should check first.
View 1 RepliesWe are having an air conditioning issue with our '03 6.0 Excursion so...
Since about 60,000 miles our air conditioner will Intermittently shut off (meaning the actual head or face unit in the dash is or does not have any power to it). Yes...I have checked fuses, and the possibility of any disconnected wiring and have found no issues. It will eventually just start working again without fail. (Note: Of course this only happens when we are in extreme weather conditions = River/Desert 110+)
Recently it stopped working - after an air conditioning service (recharge) so I took it back to the dealer in Arizona that performed the service. The advisor told me (without checking with a tech) that it was most likely a "head unit" that was out and it would cost about 1000.00 to replace. He also stated that he "sees this alot" and that they have replaced many.
So yesterday I got off the interstate and stopped to get lunch. When I came back out to start the X all I got was a cranking engine but no fire. After two passes I got out and lifted the hood to take a look...everything looked normal. Got back in and cranked it again for 20 seconds or so and it fired up. Today it works fine. Fires up on first crank.
New battery. Starter engaged. No engine warning lights showing. Did fill up tank and add a quart of oil before I started and drove about two hours. Anything like vapor lock possible with fuel injection?
I have a 2001 5.4L excursion that intermittently shakes (feels like rumble strips/rough pavement) usually at 45-50 mph when the rpms are between 1500-2000. Increasing or decreasing rpms stopps the shaking. What could this be? I'm trying to figure out how much I might have to pay for repairs (pretty sure I'm not up to diying this one) without an expensive estimate.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 with the v10 4x4 with 130,000 miles problem started one day when putting on brakes the peddle felt like it pulsated a little like the abs had activated, then a couple of minutes later the light came on. Did not do again and the light went off, started doing it on and off every so often same thing. Took to private machenic he checked all the brakes and found the pins froze up on one in the back and one in the front. Took home did it again, took back he ran codes and found the vss coded changed it did it again before I got home.
Took back drove mechenic around with scanner hooked up did it again and showed code for vss. Got on here did search and could not find anything that really matched what I have happening. Seen several threads about the cops causing this but when it happens to me I dont lose my speedo or gauges only the abs light comes on and then after a while goes off. Now the light is coming on sometimes without hitting the brakes. The only other thing the mechenic said when we drove around was that the front wheel sensors one was reading a couple of mph faster than the other one untill you hit 20mph than they both read the same. going back to shop Wednesday but we dont have a clue where to go next.
Came on intermittently other day, got it home then did not start. Charged for a bit, it started on the charger then off the charger a few times I assumed out was the alternator just replaced it. Battery light now on continually, hope I didn't destroy two batteries driving out for 20 mom after light first illuminated, they already to be only one year old. In addition to the ABS light now and the brakes feel unboosted? Hopefully fuses popped?
View 2 RepliesPulled the codes and erased them a few days ago for the first time and now it's about a once a day thing. I can drive for 2-3 stops and then I come out of a place, get in the truck, and when I start it up I have the light and the OD flashing.
View 14 RepliesBeen noticing this lately. Kinda smells like coolant I think but it's intermittent and for a short period of time. Notice it more when turning the heater on or when setting the temp to a higher setting.
Havent noticed any leaks on the carpet. Heater core? Why intermittent?
I had had intermittent issues with the cruise control not working in my excursion. most of the time it was fine though. after a recent 150 mile trip it stopped working half way through. i didnt worry about it too much..got back into town and checked under the hood. i found brake fluid running down the inner fender well! all over everything under the master cylinder. finally tracked it down to the cruise control switch on the master cylinder leaking. I pulled the plug apart and it was full of brake fluid.
Meanwhile the master cylinder was about half full, so i replaced it with the same switch out of a '96 parts explorer which is the same part luckily. also yes i have had the cruise control recall done. So if you have lost CC and you have a leak replace the switch! seems it can leak..and at a pretty good rate..alittle scary! glad i figured it out before my 800+ mile trip later this week/weekend.
I've been having a problem lately where I'm driving down the road and the brake light comes on and starts binging. I stop push the parking brake and release it a few times, then the light goes out and I'm on my way. Sometimes when I first release it the light doesn't extinguish and sometimes it is never on. I'm guessing there is a switch somewhere for the parking brake that isn't working so great. Is it around the pedal or somewhere in the brakes themselves? Is this a typical problem?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 X V10 and am having an intermittent high idle condition. I have searched the forums and found some useful info but nothing that addresses this issue. Here's what I've done. New IAC, found PCV valve hose leaking-replaced also new valve, found another vacuum leak-repaired, tested TPS and that was fine according to the specs I found. So here's my problem-upon starting engine occasionally "stumbles" then roars to life idles 8-1100rpm. Drives well till stopping at an intersection and idles 1100-1200 rpm.(lots of brake) Can pull into parking spot place in park and will idle up 1500-1800 rpm and then only drop to 1200 or so. I have checked everything I know. ALL these idle conditions are INTERMITTENT. (and yes I did check for codes "0" ) There is no loss of power.
View 8 RepliesCuz then there wouldn't be nothing wrong with my radio. So my factory 6 disc stereo has been giving me guff. Sometimes when I start my X it comes on normally and other times it puts out no sounds. Like the display is working just fine and i can turn the volume up and down and see the bars move across the display like the volume is changing but there's no actual volume from the speakers. Sometimes I never get output from the speakers for my entire 30 minute drive and other times it may just instantly without warning start playing over the speakers.
When it's not working changing stations or changing to cd/dvd doesn't fix it. It's completely random? I've been searching the net for issues like this and I've found a Taurus forum and a poster had the same issue with his factory Taurus stereo. He replace the RCM, which I assume is a radio control module, and it fixed the issue. Does the excursion have an RCM?