Ford Excursion :: 911-4 - 4x4 Hubs Reinstallation?
Apr 12, 2014
Okay, pulled them and checked it all out.. Looks fine, disassembled the hubs and cleaned then greased went to reassemble them on the truck and they will not slide into the hub!?! What's the deal, is there a special trick to this?
It's a simple procedure, but it seems that the center shaft on the axle and the outer splined hub are not centered. thus binding, but why. It came out without a fight. I also have jacked up the front and wiggled it.
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Trying to get my original auto hubs to unlock. Both are stuck locked. The dials turn but they won't disengage. Installing warn premium hubs tomorrow and the instructions say to unlock the hubs first. How can I do this if you can't unlock them?
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A relative's '04 EX Limited is having an odd problem. He put it in "4x4 Low" to back a trailer into a barn and after the task was complete the transfer case wouldn't shift out of low range. He tried multiple times and after about 5 minutes of fiddling around with it, it shifted into 4-Hi but wouldn't go back to 2-Hi. The hubs are in the "auto" position and will not manually unlock (the selector turns). 4x4 indicator on dash is not lit. Could the dash switch be bad? Why would the transfer case and hubs act up at the same time?
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After a lot of reading and troubleshooting, I have come to know that it takes vacuum to engage and vacuum to disengage the automatic locking hubs on the Ford F series and Excursion. Most indications is that ~ 15" hg is required to engage and approximately half that much to disengage them. The mechanism that either engages or disengages them acts similarly to a ball point pen. The full amount of vacuum causes the mechanism to travel to it's limit, where the hub is engaged, whereas half the amount of vacuum applied only causes the mechanism to travel to its midpoint, which is where is should be for disengagement.
In my case, I have tested for vacuum leaks, none are present. I have installed new Ford OEM hub assemblies, a new locking hub solenoid and have tested the function of my vacuum pump. It draws about 13.5" hg of vacuum on the system. I do not have any issues with HVAC controls in the cabin of the truck. When installing the new hubs, I ensured that they are unlocked, the inner spline assy spins freely and once installed, the wheel shaft spins freely by hand. When I shift to 4WD on the dash, the hubs engage and all is well.
Problem I am having is when I shift back to 2WD, the hubs remain locked. I can tell as the wheel shafts are not able to be spun freely by hand. I have tried backing the vehicle, etc. No luck. Furthermore, when monitoring vacuum while engaging and disengaging 4WD, I can see that the full vacuum (~13,5") is applied when engaging. What concerns me is that only 3.5 - 4.0" hg is applied when disengaging. This is certainly not enough to operate the mechanism to the point of disengaging the hubs.
I have considered replacing the vacuum pump as I am only getting 13.5" hg of vacuum, however, when I research the replacement part, many have indicated that a new one only draws about that much, so I do not see the value in replacement.
Have any of you dealt with the same or similar problem and if so, what was your resolution?
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And the vacuum pump was replaced.
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I bought a 2001 Excursion Ltd 4 years ago. A previous owner put Warn Premium hubs on it, which I would have eventually done myself.
I got stuck a couple of weeks ago and tried to use my 4wd. Nothing.
A friend suggested I replace the Transfer Case Motor as it can go out if you don't use it. I got that done today but I still don't have 4wd.
I can hear the transfer case shift and see the drive shaft spinning, but the front tires don't spin.
I thought it was the PVH solenoid, but discovered the Warn locking hubs don't use the vacuum and it has been disconnected/plugged.
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So I will be replacing the manual hubs on my Ford 2002 Excursion 7.3 diesel 4x4 with the WARN 38826. Just a few questions. Will I need to use the small snap ring? Also, do I have to worry about blocking the vacuum lines going to each stock hub? Any videos or step by step instructions with pictures for my truck.
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It has done this to me several times--both sides. Still learning about these auto lock hubs--though I did get them to "auto lock" now. It looks like the hub lock is not going as far down and creating depth for the retainer ring as I have seen on some youtube videos. I have taken out the hub lock and cleaned the outside of it before and cleaned its seating area but I have not disassembled and cleaned the hub locks themselves--had this about 4 months.
Last night, I had the right front tire off checking brakes. When I go to put the tire on--heavy mothers--I had it hanging on the outer part of the hub lock (installed of course). We're talking seconds here. I pick the tire up to put it on the lugs and the inside of the rim hits against the retainer clip area and it pops out. Why these frigging things keep popping off or hub not seating fully? Is there a reason these have el cheapo dryer vent clips instead of screws or something else?
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The 2000 X I have has Warn locking hubs on them. Just to be clear, I'd need to switch them to 'lock' then choose either 4-Hi or 4-Low on the dash in order to engage the transfer case, correct?
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On my new to me '03 Excursion (I've owned it for 1.5 weeks now), I'm starting to get through the 1st level of issues (Wandering - fixed, Speedo/ABS issue - still working on that, changing the rear diff fluid this week, hopefully).
Now, I want to look into why the manually locking hubs won't turn. When I brought it up to the Previous Owner, who was about as mechanically inclined as my Golden Retreiver, he said "these are auto locking hubs. I never turned those things before".
They are frozen in the non-locked position, so I have to pray that I never need to actually manually lock them.
Any lucky experience at un-freezing stuck hubs? I've started the liberal application of PB Blaster process.
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I just recently purchased a 2000 Excursion and had some questions up in another thread. After doing some diagnosing....I have a couple of questions about the auto locking hubs. The problem I have is that even with the vacuum line disconnected from the knuckle and no vacuum...the hubs won't unlock in auto/2wd. I confirmed that the knuckle and the hubs will hold vacuum when I hooked my vacuum pump up to it and it held vacuum (the fitting should be clear as I heard the hub making some sounds). I'm getting ready to pull the hubs to clean and re-grease them. My question is that being they are still locked....will it be any harder to pull them off the spindle and after disassembling them/cleaning them.....when I re-install them....will they be unlocked by default after putting them back on the spline as they have been pulled apart and reassembled?
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Swapped for Warn standard hubs a few months back when the ESOF's turned out to be trashed.
Since then, I've noticed a rattle coming from the hubs when driving over rough or broken pavement. I've checked the outer caps and they're good and snug, proper amount of grease inside, and the hub itself is completely secure.
Do aftermarket hubs have tis issue? It's not critical, but on cooler evenings with the windows down it sound like a rattle trap unless the roads are in good shape. More of a pet peeve I suppose, but still curious.
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Is it ok to keep my front hubs locked in and the switch in the 2wd position for everyday driving? Only reason I do it is because in auto it doesn't always go into 4wd.
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My Excursion is having an issue with the 4x4 system. The. 4x4 selector switch on dash lights up properly for 4x4, but the auto hubs don't actually engage. The hubs will lock only if I manually lock the hubs. I can hear relay click, so I don't think its electrical. The hubs had new o rings installed when I did front ball joints a few thousand miles ago, and the 4x4 worked fine up until today.
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I have been recently told that it is bad to drive my F350 with the manual hubs locked when I do not have it in 4 wheel drive mode. There are times when plowing snow that the roads are cleared but I am still plowing driveways. I do not want to travel with 4 wheel engaged in the scenario. So I would just disengage 4 wheel and travel to next stop. Is this a bad procedure?
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2004 fx4, transfer case engages, but front wheels won't engage. I assume the vacuum solenoid is stuck, any other thoughts?
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Front hubs are making a clicking noise pull in 4x4 and it quits also when pulling camper or boat quits make noise when you let off the gas could this be a vacuum line issue or automatic hub issue?
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Last weekend I was cutting wood and put my 2001 F150 into four wheel drive for the first time in a long time. I did it "just in case". Anyway, now my fuel mileage really took a nosedive. Is it possible one of the hubs did not unlock? If so, how can I test? Common problem?? 215,000 and going strong!!!
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I have a 98 ranger4x4 front hubs will not lock in. replaced vac lines that were rotten still will not lock,checked vacuum at solenoid had vac for a min or so then it stopped, ran vac strait to main vac line for continuous vac and they still will not lock in, had 4 wheel just the other day. What can I check or do besides set it on fire.
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My 2010 f150 stx 4x4 fails to lock in the front hubs...
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Warn Premiums, installed them and now the 4x4 is engaging, but still have a grinding issue. When the hubs are locked and the switch is in 2 wheel drive, the frond end is grinding, if I switch it to 4 hi, the grinding goes away.
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