Ford Excursion :: 7.3l Ex Limited W/310k, Should I Bite?
Oct 30, 2012
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Hey everyone,
I've been shopping for a 7 seater with some decent gas milage and maybe room for dogs in the future and school buses are too expensive, heh. Would love to get a 7.3l Ex and I may have a chance now...but wanted to get your input...
A good mechanic friend of mine that owns his own shop, and a former ASE Ford Mech has a friend with a 2001 Ex Limited 4x4 7.3 w/310k. The interior and leather seats are in great condition, no cracking in the leather. They have never towed with it, mom drove it to shuttle kidos. He only wants about 5-6k for it, should I ****** it up or wait for something else, it seems like a great deal for a 7.3l.
There has been no mods and the front end was rebuilt by my buddy about 3 yrs ago. This would not be a daily driver but would get a fair amount of use with 7 of us on weekends.
thx
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The X has 107K on the clock. I have a 6 quart after market aluminum diff cover installed with Royal Purple 75W-140 synthetic gear oil and no limited slip additive in the gear oil. When I make a left or right turn, I get this vibration like the limited slip clutch pack is engaging then disengaging. It is not a thump or thud but just a subtle vibration. I don't hear any noise but I just feel the vibration. It happens either going forward or backing during a turn and is more noticeable when pulling a load and turning. Going straight down the road I hear no noise and feel no vibration. I thought I would ask before I pulled the diff cover off.
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I am a proud new owner of a 2000 X 6.8l 2wd with the 4.3 rear end .
I have had the truck for 2 weeks now . When I bought her , she ran a little rough but I expected as much after sitting for 6 months ... After driving her home I began to start a massive tune up , because she was acting like there was a miss ... The miss only started after she was at normal operating temp and at first only when at cruising speeds in overdrive on the freeway , it progressively got worse ... The miss became all the time once up to normal operating temp but will do it wether she is in any gear or even park .... Oh and the miss is NEVER at the same time it is always completely random ...
I have changed all 10 coils , all 10 plugs , the PVC valve , and I am changing the fuel filter this afternoon ... Other then that I think I can hear a vacuum leak , but I have tried spraying carburetor cleaner around the engine bay as instructed by a " ford expert " at the local auto parts store and I did not notice any change ... After I install the new fuel filter I am going to fill her full of 93 octane and add a bottle or 2 for Lucas octane boost as well as the Lucas injector cleaner ...
Other then these things I am at a complete loss ! This is my first v10 ford so I am a little at a loss ... Now if this was my wife's BMW 760 or my Lexus IS 300 I would not be having this problem.
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So I was talking to a guy today with a 2002 Limited diesel. I noticed that his truck didn't have radio buttons on the steering wheel. I thought all 2002 Limited had radio buttons on the steering wheel. The inside of his truck also had simulated wood grain in places that my truck (also 2002 Limited diesel) didn't have.
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I have a 2wd f150. I want to put in a limited slip diff. I have found a ford racing one that is reasonably priced but all the application guide shows is mustangs. Will it work in my truck provided the size and number of splines is correct? I also found an AAM diff...
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Friend bought a 2012 Explorer Limited and there is no cabin air filter. Is this right or might it taken out by previous owner?
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2 1/2 gallons was added to the tank less than 1,500 miles ago.
Heat problem many have been solved but will not know until winter, see this link [URL] ....
Because of the unreliability and unpredictability of the truck we are now filing for lemon law under NY state law.
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So I bought my truck about three months ago. The first day I got it I obviously wasn't paying so much attention to the key, that I didn't notice that my keyfob wouldn't work at all or had limited distance. Anyways, I go to the dealership and the keyfob(Normal one, NO Remote Start) works perfect for them every time. I have been so frustrated with this for a couple of weeks now, I decided to take it into my own hands and take it apart and see whats going in there.
On the top right side of the key, there is a gap between the two plastic pieces that you can fit a flathead in and turn to open up the actual key. In between those pieces is a rubber mat type thing, I assume to keep water out. After you take that off, you will see the battery. On BOTH of my keys, there was this clear goo stuff, which again I will assume that it's some sort of contact/battery protector put on by the factory.
Well the text on the inside of the key says not to wipe the battery contacts, but I took a Cu-Tip and got all the clear stuff off the battery and contacts! I now have 100 yard distance with my key. It works EVERYTIME now.
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I've got a coolant leak on the drivers side of the radiator. I don't drive the vehicle that much because I use it primarily for towing in the good weather seasons. I drive it once a week unless we have snow than I drive it more.
I have seen small amounts of coolant (yellow/gold) in the snow when parked. It does not appear to be very much, but it does concern me.
Anyway, here is a link to some pictures : [URL]....
Where to look for this leak. I looked from the bottom and the top (without access to a lift) and I couldn't see anything revealing.
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What airbag code 36 is and how to fix it?
Its a 2004 3.0L limited .....
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Ok so I was going to just swap the whole rear end from drum to disk but it looked to be too much difficult;t. So the rear I have has 278,000 miles in it and its starting to make noise we were thinking about swapping the gear from the disk to the drum because the disk rear has 140,000 miles on it. Both have a limited slip. And 3.55 gears but i was thinking about getting 3.73.... So my question is can I swap in 3.73 gears into a rear end with the limited slip from one with 3.55 gears? Or do I need to buy a different limited slip?
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How can I tell if I have a limited slip in my '01 F250 4WD? I need to know if I need the additive for the gear oil.
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I picked up a 2004 F150 a few weeks ago. It has the limited slip 3.73 rear end. During acceleration on turning, I'm feeling quite a bit of chatter out of the rear end. I've read the TSB on it, and I'm wondering how much it'll cost to get the clutchpacks replaced in the rear differential.
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I have a 2006 fx4. And I am about it change the rear differential fluid. i want to know if i have a a limited slip differential.
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I recently changed the rear diff fluid on my 1999 F250 Super Duty (180k) It was due plus I was getting some chattering when making turns from a stop. The Diff fluid had about 60k miles on it and seemed to be a little low even though I don't see any leaks. I paid to have it done last time so I can't say what kind of a job they did.
I used Motorcraft diff fluid and 8oz of friction modifier. Two weeks later and about 500 miles, today I noticed on two occasions when turning a moaning sound coming from the rear of the truck. Could this be a sign of too much friction modifier and the cluthes are slipping or is something else going on?
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I recently purchased a rebuilt 2014 Ford Focus ST3 with about 11,000 miles on it. The engine is a turbocharged 2.0L EcoBoost. I usually use 91 or 93 octane fuel, whichever is the highest available. - 6 speed manual and around 285 horsepower (with tune) is a lot of fun to drive. When I bought it, I had the mechanic that was rebuilding it put an Injen cold air intake on it. A few weeks after I got the car, I took the it to a local performance shop to get it tuned. The tune works great and added a bit of power to the car, but now I have a strange issue.
About 1 time out of 75 when I take off, the car throttle is limited and displays the message "Engine fault - service engine now". On one occasion the engine even stalled on me while crossing a highway. Note that this happens while shifting into and releasing the clutch ONLY on first or second gear. In order to get my car running properly again, I need to come to a complete stop and turn off the engine and then restart it. Sometimes the check engine light stays on, but it usually goes away after I restart. The only engine code that is shown is P106B, which has something to do with an incorrect reading on MAF sensor causing the throttle body to close.
Research online told me this issue is commonly caused by a damaged/improperly sealed intake filter or a crack in the intake itself, which changes the angle that air hits the MAF sensor. I have checked both of these and they are good. I have ruled out a bad throttle body control because if that is bad it usually throws another code indicating that it is faulty.
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I am not sure what to do at this point because (A) the issue impossible to replicate and seems to happen at random, and (B) I cannot just take it to the performance shop and tell them to fix it because I am not sure what is wrong in the first place.
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I am getting ready to do my both differentials and need to know if I have limited slip or not on the rear, what is the best way to tell?
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I tried to use the rear defroster and the button never stayed on. As I started to investigate the truck through the owners manual I realized that it was supposed to come with heated mirrors, standard equipment on the limited, and it shows them on the VIN build out. It does not have the heated mirrors installed.
I take it to my local dealer to get the rear defroster fixed and have the mirrors installed and the dealer won't do it. I have to call Ford and open a case. I do this and Ford rejects my claim since I bought it used.
To me this shows a very poor business ethic and is disrespectful to a long time loyal Ford customer. To be honest this has really ticked me off and completely turned me off towards Ford.
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