Ford Excursion :: 6 Disc Stereo Works Intermittently?
Sep 23, 2016
Cuz then there wouldn't be nothing wrong with my radio. So my factory 6 disc stereo has been giving me guff. Sometimes when I start my X it comes on normally and other times it puts out no sounds. Like the display is working just fine and i can turn the volume up and down and see the bars move across the display like the volume is changing but there's no actual volume from the speakers. Sometimes I never get output from the speakers for my entire 30 minute drive and other times it may just instantly without warning start playing over the speakers.
When it's not working changing stations or changing to cd/dvd doesn't fix it. It's completely random? I've been searching the net for issues like this and I've found a Taurus forum and a poster had the same issue with his factory Taurus stereo. He replace the RCM, which I assume is a radio control module, and it fixed the issue. Does the excursion have an RCM?
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Fairly new to the ex. I just picked her up from the stealership last night, I'm in love! It's an 05 limited, v10, 71k. Loaded. Still tryin to figure out all the bells and whistles. It has one issue, I think it's minor, the drivers side power seat works intermittently, heat and movement. Being an electrician I believe it's probably a bad connection.
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we just bought a 2002 Excursion and it has a few issues. First off the door, the ajar light will not go out, however, the dome lights are not on constant, they come on briefly while the key is removed and do work with the roller switch. Also the radio doesn't shut off with the key removed until the timer relay kills all power. I have ohmed the door switches to ground all the way back to the VSM/GEM module. The door lock/unlock switches do nothing for any of the doors, the actuators don't even try to move. The auto headlights also do not function.
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Okay, I have checked the clutch issue and I have read the sticky damper door thread but, non of these seem to fit my problem? The a/c blows cold when it has a mind too but, in a mere few seconds it will blow like you turned the temp control to boil. go a little while then the a/c blows ice cold again. The compressor never misses a beat on the the back and forth.
I am headed out with the family for a 1500 mile trip in two weeks and a/c would keep the masses happy!
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My radio works only intermittently. It may pop on a minute or so after starting the car, it may come on immediately or it may not come on and the digital display does not even light. What is strange is that the clock appears to be keeping time even when nothing appears to be working. It may work for a day or two then not work for a day or two. I have pulled it out of the dash to check connections in the back and they appear to be okay. I find this rather baffling. It is a Ford Ranger with a factory installed radio..
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2000 ford excursion limited v10 removed factory radio and put aftermarket stereo now wont start just clicking....
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Inserted updated nav disc as directed in nav disc slot, closed door. Now the disc is stuck in the scan-disc mode and the load/eject button doesn't work on it. Wondering if there is a way to force eject the disc or other way to unstick it. You can hear the disc 'whirring' briefly as if it is trying to eject, but is stuck. It does this over and over. That's the only sound; none of the other buttons are responsive.
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Basically, my JBL will intermittently only play sound from the tweeters. Sometimes it does this, sometimes it plays like normal (i.e. from all the speakers; therefore, I don't think the other speakers are blown). It's only happened to me twice, so I have yet to notice a pattern, but I suspect it may have something to do with the Bluetooth capability. It's just a guess, and I'm sure an unlikely one, but that's about it. I figure it could also be wiring, which I will find out when I take the area apart to get a closer look. But since it's playing from the tweeters that makes wiring or connection an unlikely culprit, right? It's not a major problem, just annoying, that's all.
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The Cruise Control on my truck works intermittently. Sometimes it cuts out when I am driving and sometimes it fails to work at all (usually in the morning). Sometimes it will re engage if it cuts out and sometimes it will not re engage for hours.
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My mom has a 1988 350 Econoline van chasis that is a motorhome class C.
The front heater/AC blower motor only works when it wants to. It starts very intermittently and then shuts off then you go down the road a little more and it comes back on, it will do the same thing sitting in the driveway just idling. There is no timing it, it just turns on when it wants to and then back off again.
I checked the fuses and the fuses are fine. The blower motor when hooked up directly to the battery blows fine. When it isnt working of course there is no juice going to the blower motor through the hotwire of the blower motor, I have checked this with my volt meter.
I did replace the switch that turns the blower on in the dahs, and it didnt do the trick.
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So you can see from the photo my AC condensor is pretty well f'd. My AC guy at work says I prolly wont be able to straighten the fins back out. My ac in the truck works when it wants to. At idle pretty well but driving it warms up. Sometimes works great, usually when its cold out. I'm sure this mangled mess isn't working. My question is, replace just yhe condenser or so compressor and accumulator at the same time? I don't know what is actually wrong with the system and don't "want" to spend the extra $ on the other items if I dont need them. But I kinda feel like I might as well.
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I have a 2006 F-150 S/Crew and I seem to have the same intermittant odometer problem as many of the folks in that 1999-2003 group. The odometer comes and goes, flashes intermittantly and sometimes doesn't work for days.
Can it be repaired in the same fashion as those older units? The dealer is more than willing to sell me a new cluster (obviously). They say that there is "no way to possibly repair those odometer problems and we see them all the time."
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I have a 2011 F250 6.2 xlt 221k miles. I have an issue where my AC works sometimes and other times it doesn't work. On the occasion it will work kind of, meaning that it will blow cold for a few seconds (when the compressor clutch engages, but as soon as the clutch disengages I get warm air. My low pressure is at about 30psi and the high is about 140psi (seems low to me). When I bought the truck the a.c. didn't work at all. I pulled a vacuum and put the recommended 29oz of 134a in it. When it works its VERY cold. There doesn't seem to be any ryme or reason (temp, humidity, drive time) as to if it works or not. On occasion (not working) I have been able to turn off the a.c. for a couple minutes and when I turn it on it works.
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My fan control went out yesterday (hot day with no A/C), It comes back on at times, but if it's on three it may only blow like it's on one. What I need to replace??
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on my 04 supercab f150. one moment door locks work, the next nothing. started this weekend. its a bone stock truck with 128000 miles. sometimes work sometimes don't. have wiggled harness and connections outside the door. worked fine, pulled it out of the shop and parked it now not working again.
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Over the last few years my power windows in my '99 Super Duty have started working intermittently. The problem seems to be with both the main controls on the drivers door and the control on the passenger door. Sometimes both of them have problems operating, sometimes just one. Does not make a lot of sense. Could I have bad switches or do I need to check something else?
Rowland '99 Ford Super Duty 7.3 Diesel Dually
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So either these trucks have a super small window wash reservoir or there is something wrong with my truck. The window washer works just fine and then stops. The washer motor is still working but nothing coming out. I fill it up to the top again and suddenly it works just fine. The thing is that when I fill it up it only takes between 1 and 2 quarts of water. I'd imagine the recover probably holds close to a gallon so not sure why mine quits working and then is full after 1 to 2 quarts of water is added. Perhaps the pickup tube in mine is bent or something? No light or message on the dash...it just stops.
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I am having a hard time figuring out what is going on with my A/C. First time you start it for the day, works great, blows cold air, but will only do it for about five minutes, then the compressor kicks off.
I have tried by-passing the high and low pressure switches, compressor still will not kick on. Checked the air-gap, it is fine, and I actually removed the shim, so there is almost no gap at all now, didn't fix the problem.
I tried replacing the A/C clutch relay, no luck there. I can tell you that if I manually push the contact in on the A/C clutch relay, the compressor kicks in and runs.
The only thing I can think of at this point is the A/C control panel in the dash, but wanted to check before I buy that expensive part and replace.
If it matters, this is on a 2000 Excursion, with the 6.8l v-10
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My A/C works fine when I am moving, but when i come to a stop it does not come out cold.
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Just bought a 2010 f250 and I noticed that the warning chime works intermittently. I think this speaker or whatever it is also makes the turn signal noise because that sometimes is silent also. Where this thing is?
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The Transfer case motor works fine changing from 2H to 4H and back to 2H. Verified the drive shaft is locked in 4wd. Drive shaft is free when switching back to 2H. Hubs work fine and no problems on the vacuum side. Garage is 50+ degrees.
Very occasionally I can get into 4 Lo. (Neutral - complete stop - brake pedal depressed). My main question is could the Transfer case motor be bad if it works in and out of 4H with no problem? I have not seen any answer to this question from my searching. Also, could the dash switch be going? Last summer this started and now seems to be getting worse. This weekend I could only get into 4L one time. Where to start checking (motor on transfer case or dash switch or other)?
I have tried rolling slowly, backing up etc... Problem is I can easily hear the motor work when going to 4H and going to 4Lo (when it is working) most times when it is switched to 4Lo, there is complete silence like there is no power to the motor at all. Tapping the motor does not work. I pulled the electrical connectors off the motor and all pins on both plugs look clean and new.
Thought to first check the dash switch but not sure how to check it. The motor could be also a problem? Is there a way to remove the motor and check it?
I want to get this fixed by the spring since I use 4Lo every weekend when launching the boat. (Never has been deep enough in the water to get close to the Transfer case)..
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