Ford Excursion :: 6.8 Quits / Restarts After Sitting For One Minute
Apr 11, 2015
While driving down the road 60 mph, my X hesitated/bucked once then the motor quit... Luckily I was able to pull over to the side of the road. Tried to restart... The 6.8 turned over but didn't start. I turned it off, sat about a minute, it started no issues.
Same thing happened again except this time I smelled an electric component smell... Like after running a new computer... before the motor quit.
The check engine light is not lighting up when the issue happens. No codes. The issue has happened 3 more times. Twice, minutes between episodes... another time, 150 miles between episodes. All times I smelled "the smell" just before it quit.
Will the PCM (computer brains of the X) shut down if it overheats due to an issue... Thus the computer component smell.
I have been trying to do a search... What is the exact name of the computer brain in a 6.8?? What does it take to swap in a new one?? I have read that the PATS system is effected if changing out the brains (PCM).
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To start off I have replaced the MAF sensor in this car 3 times now, and have all new oxygen sensors and a new fuel pump. The most recent MAF sensor I have put in the vehichle was 2 months ago and I did it because The car would die while idling, however the mass air flow code did not show up on the cars diagnostic trouble codes. Yet this did solve the problem. The previous MAF sensor had been installed a year ago and failed on me, it was under warrantee. Now that I have installed this newest MAF sensor the car has been running fine until last month.
Since then It runs especially rough at idle and has a tendency to die when sitting for more than a minute in idle. This problem is on and off however, it can run fine one day and as soon as i start it up the next day the problem will reoccur. Now I am getting the DTC for the throttle position sensor, evaporative emission control valve, and throttle position sensor. And more recently, today the problem occurred again, the first time in a week, and now I am getting gray smoke out of the tailpipe. I would like to know if I should again, try to replace the MAF sensor, or if there is some other problem that the Sentra is prone to that I am unaware of.
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My eXcursion is showing the typical signs of a failing fuel pump. It cranks and fires on a few cylinders, then quits. I released the schrader valve on the fuel rail but very little pressure is released. From these indications, and after checking for a blown fuse, it appears the fuel pump is going. I say going because it did start after this happened, but would you trust it?
I ordered a new fuel pump, it's due in tomorrow. I remember seeing instructions on how to drop the tank but can't locate them with the search function. I'm also concerned with how to remove the pump from inside the tank. I know you have to spin off the big plastic ring, how do you get the pump off the bottom of the tank?
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Occasionally when i start my Ex, there will be NO tach reading (0 RPM) and NO fuel gauge reading (E). The Temp and Oil gauges will work fine though.
After a min or so, they come to life and move normally. This happens intermittently.
2001 V10 4x4 Limited.
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When my Excursion sits for a while, the transmission slips a lot at first till it builds up pressure. Is this a problem? It seem fine other than this.
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I changed out my front springs awhile ago and recently pulled off the track bar and replaced the bushings with Energy suspension bushings.
Today I noticed that the Ex is sitting a bit low on the drivers side. I measured from the bottom of the fender to the ground, drivers side 40 inches, passenger side 40 1/2 inches.
It was really hard getting the track bar back in after the bushing change. Would an adjustable track bar fix this?
This is for a 2004 Excursion 4x4 with a 6.0. Bilstein shocks, approx 1 1/2 years old.
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Monday I started my truck after leaving it in the garage while on a 8 day vacation. Shifting into reverse led to almost no movement at all. After a few seconds, I shifted back into park and then reverse again and got a solid reverse right away. I may have noticed sluggish shifting into reverse previously, but not this noticeable. What could be the culprit?
2001 Excursion 7.3 4x4 .....
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I have a 96 explorer, and it will just shut off, but restart ok. V6 push rod motor. It has only done it 2 times in the last 2 weeks. One time I was driving slow, been running for about 20-30 min
The other time I had left it run, while I ran in to pick up a pizza, and my wife said it just shut off, had been running around that day , but started it about 15 min earlier. I fill it up before it hits 1/4 tank....
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My friend has a 2004 explorer v6 150k miles. Randomly shuts off while normal driving just going down the road, and when you try to restart it it starts up and runs fine. This used to happen every few months and is getting more frequent. The only code it has is a lean code from the o2 sensor, I'm trying to get more info on that but it's been like that before this problem started and possibly just a bad o2 sensor. Where to start and any know issues that would cause this? Sounds like a wiring issue are there any spots in particular prone to chaffing?
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Truck has been driving great for a long time and this afternoon after driving fine to work just died 3-4 times while trying to accelerate from idle. Engine restarts easily but the power is soft off idle, the injectors sound noisier and then quiet down and will accelerate decently once rolling but something is off I can tell.
Fuel pressure is read post filter and is good. Truck is well maintained with all the basics replaced in the last couple years. Could this be CPS going out even if it is only a couple years old? IPR is new in the last year, ICP sensor isn't leaking. Most recent change was a full tank of fuel yesterday afternoon and on a whim performing a boost leak check which was all good.
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I have a 2014 TDI SE.
My Samsung phone is connected to car via Bluetooth. It seems to work fine. However my phone restarts when I start and turn the car off.
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Have swapped the following parts from my 92 240 into my 93 240 without any change in my stalling issue:
AMM, coil, ignition module, fuel relay, spun all fuses and checked hose between throttle body and AMM for holes.
Was super hot in NM today and after driving the car about 1/2 an hour it stalled and would not restart until it cooled off for about 20 minutes.
It doesn't seem to matter what level the fuel tank is. Stalled the other day when it was full.
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1997 Ford f-150. No heat.
I have replaced Radiator (Leaking)
New heater core (Signs of leaking when I replaced it)
New blend door (Why not...I am already in there)
Actuator motor works fine
New thermostat.
Both heater core hoses are hot. (same temp, feels like)
My next step is going to be water pump. I read where some have replaced pump and found that although no leaks were found the fins were deteriorated to the point it would not work. Truck does not overheat. Coolant level is fine. Cab gets heat for a few seconds then quits.
Money is not an issue so I don't mind throwing a few parts at it. What other parts are left?
Temp. control switch
Water pump?
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I have an 07 6.0 diesel and I'm having trouble once it gets hot. It begins to lose throttle response and shakes while cruising and also has a rough idle. sometimes it dies while idling but after cooling off for a few minutes starts back up and runs fine. I've checked the high pressure oil and the ficm and both of those are fine. I've done an EGR delete so it has nothing to do with that either. My MPG also goes way down when this happens.
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My 1990 Jeep Cherokee (automatic trans) will occasionally stall. The engine stops turning, the tachy goes to 0, no power steering, no power brakes. After I come to a stop I can always start it right back up. The previous owner suspected it was the ignition switch because the vehicle was stolen multiple times, column broken, etc. but I took the switch out and everything seems good and tight there. I tested the switch, not connected to the lock and I couldn't get it to duplicate the problem. It locks cleanly into each position. Start position has strong spring. I tested all the positions with the ohmeter. I drove around with the switch disconnected from the lock and wiggled it as I drove and I couldn't get it to stall. Sometimes I can go days without a problem and other times it will do it three times in a mile long drive.
I've searched the Internet for an answer but all the other posts about stalling the owners have trouble restarting their vehicle. Mine has never failed to restart after stalling. When it stalls it is a sudden loss of engine, no coughing or sputtering. The tachy drops to zero along with oil pressure, etc but the radio, lights, etc stays on. If I wiggle the key in the ignition I can't get it to start back up even if I'm coasting along at 40 mph. I have to turn the key back to the start position.
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Its done this twice to me, once last week, once this morning. Drive a short distance after cold startup and it dies. Cranks strong but doesn't turn over. I waited a few minutes (took longer today than last week) and it restarts with a larger than normal puff of smoke, perhaps due to the multiple cranks, and the epc light comes on. Last week, I finished my errands with it on, it even went off after a restart. Today I didn't bother driving it because I was late for work. 137,xxx miles
Fuel pump and filter were replaced recently, relay was not because I could hear it and a new one didn't fix my fuel pump issue. One day I didn't hear the pump prime so naturally it didn't start but after opening and closing the door and waiting some time, it did prime and start.
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The engine on our Ford Expedition (2003) has started quitting for no reason. The engine light does not come on. We might be driving and it just stops or stopped at a light or turning into the driveway and it just turns off. Often it we simply turn it back on and it is fine but occasionally it is difficult to restart.
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98 f150 4.2l imrc quits working after 30 secs or so. Valves are good,linkage is good, vacuum lines good, electric vacuum switch/valve on r/h side of intake good, power to that switch/valve is there, loosing ground from computer??? What tells the computer to operate these valves?
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Just a hour ago, driving along about 45, then I hear a loud bang and my truck quits. I get off the road and it won't even turn over. I had a friend tow it back to the barracks and put a socket and breaker bar on the crank and can't move it. All the fluids are fine. Possible seized up? The thing was running great as always then boom. Nothing! It's a 06' F150, 5.4, 97K on it.
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All of a sudden all the power to the van just quits when I try to start it. I put a load test on the battery and it seems fine. I've still got power at the battery terminals when everything is dead - no dome light or anything else.
We went out for lunch and had to get a jump to get back home. The battery was turning the engine just fine before this sudden event. What would kill all the power to everything every time I try to start it? After some time goes by, the dome lights and chime come back but I can no longer turn the engine over to start it up.
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I come over from the old school forum (48-60) with a question about a new to me 1999 F150 XLT 5.4L, 4x4, Auto. Truck has ran awesome for a couple of days. Truck has in excess of 410,000 miles but don't let that mislead. I believe the engine has been replaced sometime along the way. Yesterday I was driving and it just stumbled and stopped. After sitting for 5 minutes it started again, stumbled and stopped.
Today I checked the following:
- Fuel pump/relay - both work
- Dropped gas tank and replaced fuel pump strainer and fuel filter
- Fuel pressure at rail remains steady
- No codes present and no SES/CEL on.
Could this be a plugged EGR valve or IAC valve? I have had similar issues on Tauruses but it always threw a code when it did. Could this indicate a cat issue?
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