Ford Excursion :: 5R110 Running Hot - No Warning And Not Towing
Aug 17, 2014
2005 Excursion 6.0 104,000 miles
I have a scanguage2. Normal driving yesterday morning. Not towing. Temp got up to 200 deg.....then later to 240!! Never an issue with the tranny !!
Yesterday I checked:
-the fluid level and it's fine.
-There was some crud on the dipstick though.
-temps for EOT and EWT are fine.
-a distinctive hot rubber smell too when it got to that temp.
Today I checked:
- the coolant for traces of transmission fluid...there was none.
-looked under the truck for fluid that may have blown out the vent....none
-no leaks anywhere
The truck is parked and will be towed to the shop so i don't incurr any more damage. So what could the prob be??
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We just got back from our first big trip with the EX since we have owned it. We towed our (new to us) 25' TT up to northern Michigan (Elk Rapids area). This was my first time pulling a camper this far. We have been on smaller weekend trips with it.
My question is regarding the speed control. I tried using it but when it was going up a slight incline it would not kick back down. I would have to turn off the speed control in order for the RPM's to drop back. Do you guys use your speed control while towing? What about over-drive? Should I have it on or off?
By the way, we had a great time and so glad we have the EX!!! Kids had plenty of room. Got about 8 MPG! That's how we roll!
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I have a 02 excursion 7.3 with 120000 miles. Went camping and towed my 28ft travel trailer weighs about 9000 lbs loaded . The trans got super hot dumped fluid in the past this time same thing but the front seal went had it replaced and the trans pump rebuilt on the way home it got super hot a few times what I need to do now. The trans guy said the trans had been rebuilt in the past don't know when cuz I bought the truck used 1.5 yr ago..... The truck has tow package coolers its set up for towing how the hell do I keep the temp down...
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I had a flow master 50 sieries on my v10 and it sounds like something rattling around when towing. Guess i will have to find something different later on.
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For the last couple months when not towing I take the front tires to 65 psi and the rears to 50 psi. It gives me the warning light which I click OK to every time I start it. This weekend I put everything back to 80 psi getting ready to tow and I can't get the warning light to go out anymore. I double checked my pressure to make sure everything was OK and it was. I will be taking it in unless someone knows a reset or something else to check out before I do.
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I towed my friends car hauler yesterday for a short distance for him. I had no turn signals or 4 way flasher while towing. After dropping off the trailer still no signals or 4way flasher. I parked and checked fuses all were good and signals started to work. But still no 4ways. Any thoughts on what to look for. Never had this before. I have blown a fuse before and always been able to find and fix.
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How much do any of you increase your tire pressure while towing?
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I have a new set of towing mirrors for my beast and also a set of the LED smoked signals. It appears that the old ones just "pop" off but I would like to know for sure.
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So a little back story. Did the oil cooler a couple of years ago as the deltas were getting high. Coolant flush and new Ford gold. Also welded EGR shut and had PHP reprogram. That was approx 25k miles ago.
Well now I have to fix the EGR because it won't pass smog. But my truck is running hot again BUT only when climbing a grade while towing my toy hauler. As soon as I crest the Temps come down fast. Also my deltas are fine normal driving, which was not the case last time I did oil cooler. My deltas were off all the time.
Also when I shut the truck off and stand in front of it after driving I can hear the coolant system gurgling.
I will be tearing my truck apart next week to fix the EGR and was thinking of doing the oIL cooler but don't want to waste money if that is not the issue. How do you tell if the water pump is bad? Also the fan is working according to scan gauge but doesn't have the big whoosh and squeal like it used to.
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3 for 3 this year. When I'm towing, arrive at our campsite and back our trailer into the spot. I get white smoke pretty quickly and there is transmission fluid all over the ground.
4R100 transmission with 71k miles on it. I had the fluid changed this year HOWEVER it did do the same thing last year on a camping trip when I was towing.
I don't have any other issues other than this. I assume the fluid is getting ridiculously hot and then boiling over? The gauge doesn't change at all in the cab (but I assume it is either a GOOD/BAD sensor vs. an actual temp sensor).
I've tried using 2WD, 4HI and 4LO all with the same results. What needs to be done to prevent this? Larger transmission cooler? Is there anything that is 'plug and play'?
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Ive got a 2004 excursion Eddie bauer and I've got the non-towing paddle mirrors with power adjustment, heated, and turn signals. I want to put the 2008 style towing mirrors on that have power adjustment, heated, turn signals, and have the marker lights but not power fold or power telescope.
How I can wire these new mirrors to my factory wires? I understand that the marker light may have to be separately wired in, but all of the other functions I want to wire in to my existing wires.
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I have an 01 EX that handles excellent (no wandering)! I tow my 06 Jeep LJ Rubicon (4500 lbs) that is on 35" tires with a Ready Brute tow bar. I use a 10" drop hitch (reversed) to get the tow bar level and my tire pressure is 65# front and 60# rear. It handles nice on level, uphill and mild downgrades. When I am doing steeper downgrades (I-70 in Colorado) it tends to want to push my rear end to the point that I am really fighting the back and forth feeling. If I slow down to about 50mph it steadies out.
I'm thinking that part of the problem might be the slop in the hitch. What I mean is that with just the hitch installed I can rock it back an forth in the receiver about 1/2 to 1". When I start downhill instead of a steady transfer of weight I get a "bump" as the weight shifts which contributes to the handling problems. Is there anything I can do (other than wood shims) to get rid of the slop in the hitch? What my problem might be?
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I have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3 diesel. I have 245k on the clock. Engine and transmission are original. I have an overheating issue when I am towing and pull a long grade. It's not as bad as it was before but it still happens and I am tired of turning off the AC and putting the heaters on full blast to support cooling when it is 90 plus outside. A list of things that I have done so far.
Newer water pump and thermostat.
New tensioner.
Installed a new trans pan with about 7-8 larger capacity.
Used some magic juju juice to clean out colling system.
Installed a coolant filter. I am on my 5th filter. The first one didn't last 500 miles before getting stopped up.
Switch to Delo ELC.
I recently had the upper hose off and when I looked inside, I didn't see any scale or build up. I also read about some of the trucks of that vintage didn't get a trans cooler. When I looked, I saw a cooler but it doesn't look like it is plumbed through the radiator.
I want to install a large trans cooler. I don't want to replace the radiator just for the sake of replacing it. Also, look at the pic of the water pump with the thermostat sitting in it. Is the thermostat supposed to be resting all the way down? I keep wondering about that.
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My 99 f250 ran hot while towing my travel trailer when the fan clutch gave up. ever since iv been noticing coolant loss and pressure in the day tank.ive changed the water pump,radiator. day tank and cap plus the thermostat.
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So this may be a really dumb question, but here goes. I have a new to me 2001 v10 gas 4x4 ex. It has obviously been lifted in the past. The springs seem totally shot as the back end is quite a bit lower than the front and drops dramatically while towing. I am adding a helwig and have a wd hitch but have not set it up yet. So my question is can i do the spring swap? It would seem that i would need to address whatever changes are made from the stock ride but im not sure. I like the current lift and would be fine keeping it and adding the lift from the new springs.
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Ford Excursion ... Transmission gauge went to the High end of the scale - red. This was on drive home from work level ground through town. Shifts fine, fluid level is good, does not smell, looks good not brown or discolored.
Rechecked the fluid level again this morning and took it for a drive, went about 2 miles on freeway and it pegged to the hot side and the engine light & check engine light came on with the tow haul light blinking.
Waited about 20 minutes and thought about checking the filter lines to from the cooler back to transmission. Well the one line is warm the other three are relatively cool and the filter housing seems warmer than the three other lines.
Don't see any drips or leaks. No codes yet? What to check and or do?
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Started flaring between 3rd and 4th I changed the pressure solenoid and the direct clutch and no change. Flushed the tranny and changed filters and no change the oil is not burnt. When it flares it goes into a safe mode on the dash and will shift perfect through 4th gear no issues. I guess I've always know if it's bad it's bad but I don't understand why it works in a safe mode but slips in regular. Also if it is a bad tranny will a 3c2p-7000 work as a swap in my truck. 2008 6.4 4x4 ....
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I have a 2005 Ford 6.0L Diesel with the 5R110 transmission.
About a month ago, i started seeing some strange shifting issues with the transmission. While driving normally, it would suddenly hard shift (slam itself into gear), the entire truck would shake it shifted so hard. It would also cause the Tow/Haul indicator to start blinking. (my understanding is that the Tow/Haul light indicates an error code).
I drained/flushed the transmission, installed the larger pan/with the improved filter. I put Mercon LV back into the transmission (what type of fluid was in there before).
The problem still persists, and got a bit worse. The truck is almost un driveable at this point. Still getting Tow/Haul flashing messages. Can the error code be read by an standard ODB2 reader ?
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Iv got a 2003 6.0 stroke with 212k miles on it. Runs like a top. Done a slew of work from injectors to hpop, 2 alternators, intake, exhaust. NO tuner! Stock. Anyway recently I started the old girl up, warmed up a bit and shifted into reverse and truck did nothing. Went to drive and same thing. Held brake and revved it up and it dropped in gear. Shifts fine after that. No issues other than the occasional NO shift from park problem. Iv dropped pan and replaced all filters recently.
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The truck belongs to a very good customer of mine and is a 05 f350sd 6.0 td with 5r110 torqshift tranny. The vehicle presents with these symptoms and codes....
-there is a delay from p to r and its intermittent, sometimes it will be in a weak reverse where it wont creep unless you give it some gas, sometimes it will hit reverse hard after this. sometimes it bangs reverse
-there is a delay into drive intermittently with the same symptoms as reverse where sometimes it bangs and sometimes it will take a little throttle to get it moving
-once the trans is hot (operating temperature) it has trouble downshifting. my solus tells me sometimes it tries to start off in 3 or 5 then sometimes it will bang back down into first and almost chirp tire with little throttle input
-tow haul light will flash after several miles and then it only has 1-2-3-4 no 5-6. then the starting off symptoms get worse
-throws codes for
p0766 shift sol d performance/stuck
p2701 friction element b apply time range/performance
p2703 friction element d apply time range/performance
p0700 trans control system fault.
So far the ideas i have are as follows
replace solenoid D
direct clutch replacement and seals for corresponding drum
torque converter replacement and pump replacement
harness rub through between pcm and transmission
The truck has had similar issues a year ago. Upon testing line pressure i found it was out of spec and replaced the epc. (electronic pressure control solenoid) and this cleared most of it up . I have had the pan down many times and the fluid has not been burnt and there is little debris in the pan. nothing i would consider beyond normal wear. Tomorrow I will be dropping the pan again to inspect the magnet and fluid as well as the condition of the harness. i will post my findings at that time. I am hoping between now and then some of you will be able to point out a few possibilities to get me on the right track.
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1997..FordF150 4.6L 4x4 Manual transmission ~~
To start ... truck seem to be having misfire issues one day...first thought was gas tank was low and running out of gas with no warning from low fuel light. Made it to station got gas no more trouble. Week or so later climbed in truck that morning went to start it and felt like it was running off 4 cylinders, shaking, misfire and engine light flickering constantly.. eventually died left it off took the Harley to work...
Later that evening after I got home put scanner on it got a code PO453 "Evaporation Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input".. Looked it up.. found the location to be on top fuel tank...first thought great gotta drop tank to replace sensor... after the scan reset sensor. Next mourning started truck ran great ..no engine light... took it for a spin no problems parked it. Next mourning going to work started it same problem...Shake Rattle and Roll...
Friend told me to unhook ground cable to reset computer... did it..left it for couple hours..hooked it back up..started fine..no engine light running great drove it 3 to 4 miles no problems. Took it to car wash cleaned it started again drove home parked it. Next mourning same thing shaky shaky...
Took to local shop to have it checked out (drove it there ran great with engine light on)... they seem to think sensor is OK.... Their thought P C M.. Supposedly took PCM off cleaned contacts and one of the mechanics drove truck home with no problems...next mourning same issue shaky shaky.... New PCM right direction ?
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