Ford Excursion :: 4x4 Will Not Light When Put It In Hi Or Lo
Jun 22, 2015
My Excursion has had an issue for about a week now. the 4x4 will not light when I put it in hi or low. I do this by stopping the vehicle, putting the vehicle in neutral and turning the switch on the dash. I tried to turn the manual hubs but it is not marked like in the owners manual so I don't know if Clockwise is manual or automatic and / or vise versa.
I was diagnosing an issue that I think is related to the $XD feature which is when I turn the wheel hard to the left or to the right, I get a stuttering of the front wheels. At low speed the wheels will not turn at all and the steering wheel kicks back. When driving straight there is no issue at all. All of this started at the same time.
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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Last night I changed out my alternator and charged the batteries on my Excursion. When I went to start it up the ABS light stayed on. I scanned for codes but no luck there.
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I just noticed this happening the other day. Sometimes the battery light will come on for a second then go off. It seems to happen when I accelerate. I've watched the battery gauge and it never moves when the light comes on. I have a digital voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter and it reads 14.2 volts constantly, even when the light is on. So what could cause the battery light to go on besides a drop in voltage?
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Hopped in the truck for a test spin, and then CEL came on, and the OD off light started flashing. Just my luck. Used my SCT ExCal2 to read the codes and got a P0740 (TOR CVT CLT CIR), P0743 (TOR CVT CLT SYS ELEC FL). Had ZERO time to deal with fixing the problem before leaving for the trip. Trans doesn't sound funky, and shifts into OD just fine. So off I went, with fingers crossed. Fortunately, everything went A-OK.
A little hard shift from first to second, but other than that, everything seems "normal" but I'm still concerned. I have a week before I have to do the 900 mile trek back north, but the local Ford dealership is COMPLETELY unwilling to steer my in the right direction to fix the problem myself. They act as if the codes are some kind of trade secret and politely told me to go jump in a lake.
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So yesterday I go to fill up and let the tank run down a bit. The MTE states I have 30 miles to empty. The low fuel light comes on back when it said I have 100 MTE. I fill up and I only take on 36 gallons. So I have 8 gallons still in the tank.
Is this normal for the fuel low to come so early or is it tied to the MTE overhead console and it sets it off? I'm going to try the reset for the overhead the next fill ups.
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Changing 3rd brake light to an led? Im doing the led swap on all the exterior lighting but I can't seem to find a red 3rd brake light. Using the f250 3rd brake light? Is it a direct swap?
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My EX died this morning at a light. Put it in park and fired right back up with no further issues.
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Today I had to replace both batteries and now my ABS light is on. Before replacing the batteries I was installing a XM satellite system and my dash face plate was removed to make installation easier. After putting everything back together and connecting the new batteries the light is on. Tomorrow I will see if any codes come up using my Scangauge II otherwise I'll have to go to the parts store to have them pulled.
This is on an 04 Ex, Limited, 4x4, 6.0 PSD......
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I have checked the brake fluid and recycled the emergency brake pedal and the red light in the instrument cluster won't go out. Is it possible that the problem make be the contact switch right above the emergency brake pedal? I have pushed on the switch and the light doesn't go out?
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On that note I have a 02, 7.3 Limited with 195k on the clock. It has had this problem since I owned it. I have put about 20k on the Ex since I bought it. Right at 70 mph through 75 mph I get a light vibration.
I does not matter what I do, on or off the gas in neutral the vibration is there until I exceed or drop below that speed. The vibration is really annoying on long trips and I feel on edge the whole time waiting for something to break.
Its not strong enough to rattle change or the mirror but is enough that I can feel it and hear it. I had the wife drive and seems like most of it is coming from behind the drivers seat area.
I really don't want to start throwing parts at the problem. The guys at the shop said its a truck and thats what they do. Needless to say I found another place to have work done.
Here is what I have done so fare
New tires (Bridgestone Revos E)
Upper lower ball joints
Balanced front and rear drive shafts
Replaced the front Drive Shaft CV joint - what was not cheap
Lubed the slip joint on rear drive shaft
Ran the truck without the rear shaft and the vibration is almost undetectable but, still there.
I had it up on a lift and checked for play in all the wheels, found drivers side rear to have a little bit of movement. - Could that little bit of play be causing my issue? I am going to take the rear wheel bearing apart this weekend if time permits to investigate that. No leaks on rear axle.
I have not put new u-joints in the drive shaft as the shop said they were fine. Only the front CV joint has been replaced. Should I go ahead and just change the rear u joints out?
Also all fluids have been serviced and no metal shavings on the plug magnets front, rear, tranny, or Transfer case. I have no lift and suspension is all stock. I want to put a lift on but issue more then likely be compounded with a lift.
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2000 EX 6.8 4wd, my oil light and low fuel light will come on together for about 1 second then go off, oil is good and fuel was at 1/2 tank.
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Waiting on a flatbed ... Everything was normal and then my abs light comes on then crunching sounds from my left front. Would a hub or wheel bearing cause this?
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I have a 2000 with the v10 4x4 with 130,000 miles problem started one day when putting on brakes the peddle felt like it pulsated a little like the abs had activated, then a couple of minutes later the light came on. Did not do again and the light went off, started doing it on and off every so often same thing. Took to private machenic he checked all the brakes and found the pins froze up on one in the back and one in the front. Took home did it again, took back he ran codes and found the vss coded changed it did it again before I got home.
Took back drove mechenic around with scanner hooked up did it again and showed code for vss. Got on here did search and could not find anything that really matched what I have happening. Seen several threads about the cops causing this but when it happens to me I dont lose my speedo or gauges only the abs light comes on and then after a while goes off. Now the light is coming on sometimes without hitting the brakes. The only other thing the mechenic said when we drove around was that the front wheel sensors one was reading a couple of mph faster than the other one untill you hit 20mph than they both read the same. going back to shop Wednesday but we dont have a clue where to go next.
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Purchased a set of LED tail lights for the beast last week. I'm having an issue. I know about the hyper flash and I expected that but what is happening is the tail light doesn't come on, it blinks when the turn signal is activated but no tail light, dead. Remove bulb and put old bulb regular standard incandescent bulb back in and it works before it's seated in the socket. Why this is happening? Here's the link to evil bay and what I purchased, maybe it will work.
2pcs 3157 3156 T25 CREE 5W LED Tail Brake Stop Light Bulb Brilliant Red New 35
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Well over the past few weeks, the ABS light has come on but went off after I restarted the truck. Well now it is on full time. Dealer wants $85 just to read it. Any place to read ABS codes? If it doesn't show in my sig, it's a 2000 V10 4x4.
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Came on intermittently other day, got it home then did not start. Charged for a bit, it started on the charger then off the charger a few times I assumed out was the alternator just replaced it. Battery light now on continually, hope I didn't destroy two batteries driving out for 20 mom after light first illuminated, they already to be only one year old. In addition to the ABS light now and the brakes feel unboosted? Hopefully fuses popped?
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I noticed this morning that the brake light on the dash did not go out. I cycled the e-brake, checked the fluids. The fluid level is fine and I reached up and pushed in the contact switch for the e-brake and the light still didnt go out.
Driving it - no issues with braking. I know on some older vehicles, there's a proportional valve that gets stuck and can be cleaned. I'm not very familiar with this and Im not sure if it even applies to this model.
I did have the flex brake lines changed on the front because the right front was leaking and thought might as well do both.
2000 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 ....
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Pulled the codes and erased them a few days ago for the first time and now it's about a once a day thing. I can drive for 2-3 stops and then I come out of a place, get in the truck, and when I start it up I have the light and the OD flashing.
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My battery indicator light is doing weird stuff. I have a secondary volt gauge that shows good voltage throughout. Checked posts and connections tight. At idle the warning light is off. Under slow acceleration it starts to flash with the frequency increasing with greater acceleration until it finally goes solid with normal acceleration and highway speeds.
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2005 Excursion Limited 4x4. Will not go into 4 wheel drive. At initial key on the 4x4 indicator light comes on briefly. Tried manually locking the hubs, no 4x4. Tried swapping the underhood relays around, no 4x4.
Should I be looking for voltage at the transfer case 4x4 motor to determine if it is faulty when turning the in cab switch to 4x4? I'm thinking that would tell me the transfer case motor is shot, I think.
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