Ford Excursion :: 4wd Dash Light Comes On But Only Rear Wheels Are Engaging
Feb 8, 2014
My 2002 X won't shift into 4wd. The dash light comes on, but only my rear wheels are engaging. Trying for a half hour, I intermittently was able to get it into 4LO without the front wheels engaging still, but it took me a long time to get it out of LO. While in neutral, I would switch the dash selector out of 4LO into 4HI and it wouldn't switch. Id move the truck a few feet forward and then back and try again and finally got it out of 4 LO, but it went back to just the rears, even with the 4x4 HI dash light on. I replaced the ESOF hubs with warn hubs a few months ago, so the ESOF aren't the problem. The only thing I didn't do when I swapped out the ESOF was plug the vacuum lines, would that affect manual hubs? I am visiting relatives in eastern WA and it has snowed 5 inches in the past few hours. I need to make it 180 miles home tomorrow.
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Couple weeks ago, was in a spot that needed 4wd. Turned the switch, the 4x4 dash light came on, but rear wheels didn't do anything. Lucky that we were able to get out with ft wheels only. Has 3.0, xlt version.
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Yesterday I was parked on an incline with my front wheels on gravel and the rear wheels on wet grass/mud. When I tried to go, the rear wheels started spinning. I then switched on the low 4x4, and tried to go. The rear wheels continued to spin, but the front did not turn. I had new wheels installed, that has a cap that covers the manual locking hub, so I couldn't turn it to lock the hub. What should I look for to fix the problem?
2007 F250 4X4 Larriat SRW
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I have a 2004 F-150 Non Heritage. The 4WD was working fine last year and is not working now. The light on the dash comes on and I do seen to be getting vacuum at the hub but it is not engaging. Several months prior to using the 4WD I did do some front end work and must have knocked the vac line off. It was off for several months, I reinstalled it and it is still not working.
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I have 08 F150 that the 4x4 is not working on.The light on the dash comes on and I can hear the transfer case engaging.I checked to make sure that I have vacuum to the switch under the hood and that the vacuum line going down to the front diff is holding vacuum.I'm just not sure how it engages the diff.
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Vehicle is a 2000 Ex. Limited 2WD 6.8, 3:73 rear, 135,000 miles purchased at the end of December (Merry Christmas to me!). When I purchased the vehicle it had some vibration at speed, that I chalked up to the completely worn tires, tire rod ends and ball joints, all that I knew about when purchasing. The vibration slowly builds up to 70mph, and then comes on like a light switch where it is nearly violent, then slowly dissipates over 80mph. First on the vehicle were new BFG TA/KO2's 285 75 16. No change in vibration. Next were ball joints and tie rod ends. No change in vibration. Next were new inner/outer front hub bearings, rotors, pads. No change in vibration. At this point I was scratching my head a little. I had the tire balance checked twice by two different shops. Alignment was also checked by two different shops.
The vehicle has 2" spacers under the front coils and an aftermarket 4" lift block in the rear of unknown manufacture. I decided that the vibration may be due to an incorrect taper on the block causing a pinion angle issue. I replaced the block with a stock F-350 block for the same wheelbase truck. No change in vibration.
At this point I figure all that is left is the driveshaft and I am very fortunate to have the great guys at Driveshaft Specialists about 2 miles away from my office here in San Antonio. They took it out for a drive and said "we'd love to sell you a new driveshaft, but we don't think that's it." They put it on the lift, jacked up the rear by the differential and ran it up to speed. By 50mph the rear wheels had VERY VISIBLE "hopping" at the hub. You would have thought there were 5lb weights attached to the inside of each wheel. It was vibrating like crazy. There isn't any noise or play to indicate bearings (and with the amount of wobble/hopping/vibration I was seeing the bearings would have to be reduced to dust). Their best guess is that somehow the axles are bent
They referred me to another shop where the Ex will be going today, for possibly new axles. I am leaving for a 2500 mile round trip road trip Thursday and am at my wits (and wallets) end.
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I've only had the Ex for a few months so I'm still learning... After a trip to Orlando this weekend, I noticed a very faint odor of differential fluid from the driver's side front and rear wheels.
Nothing on the passenger's side. I've inspected the pinions and axles and found no wet areas at all, so I'm a little perplexed. The wheels and axle housings were pretty cool considering a 5 hour round trip.
I was also wondering if what I am smelling is due to the axle vent hoses?
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I got my R32 back 2 days ago after deploying to Iraq for a year. Upon driving it for the first time I took it a little easy on the car. I made sure the clutch was fully out before I did anything silly and what not.
Today I took it to the track and on the first launch I dropped it from like 3500 rpm and the RPMs shot up to 7500 and the car was moving at like 5 mph. I hit second gear and the rpm almost instantly shot up to 7500 rpm's again with the car moving at like 10 or 15 miles an hour.
After that, i let off completely. I tried one more time out in the warm up area to see what the hell was going on. Did the same thing. I could smell what I'm guessing was clutch burning pretty freaking bad. I'm, not 100% sure it was the clutch because I've never smelt a clutch smell that strong before.
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I have checked the brake fluid and recycled the emergency brake pedal and the red light in the instrument cluster won't go out. Is it possible that the problem make be the contact switch right above the emergency brake pedal? I have pushed on the switch and the light doesn't go out?
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I have a 2000 7.3 with about 114,000 miles. I just had my water pump, thermostat and belt replaced about a week ago. I've been driving the truck since and everything feels normal. This morning I drove the truck to work and parked it for about 10 hours. Got in it after work and everything started up fine. I noticed the brake light on the dash was lit up which I thought was odd because I never use the E brake. E brake wasn't on and I stepped on the brake pedal and it felt like I had no brakes. I turned the truck off and didn't try driving it, I didn't want to risk anything if I didn't have brakes.
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The "Door Ajar" light on my Ex has apparently decided that I would enjoy having the little red light on the dash illuminated. Normally, I'd consider this just a nuisance, but it's convinced the interior and running board lights to play along so that they don't go out until they time out. I'm pretty sure that it's in the rear door somewhere. Where the sensor(s) are for the rear doors and how to test them?
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I own a 2002 excursion and my dash light for door ajar stays on, I pulled all of the contacts off the rear doors and hatch and found that there are no electric hook up to what I thought would be the contacts i needed to be looking at. So what relays the signal to my dash that the doors are in fact closed?
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My ride 2000 excursion limited v-10 4.10 gears. Now here is the issue when I press the o/d button it kicks down right so far so good! Then i press it again and nothing it wont return to o/d that is unless i lift off the gas. The light turns on and off as it should it just won't reengage o/d with out me lifting?
Shifts fine any other time for example if i am climbing a hill and it kicks to 3rd upon cresting said hill it will shift back to overdrive as it should. It is hard to move the shifter and i have read about the switch on the tranny also read about the wires getting worn through in the column but, as the light goes on and of respectively i fear this is not the case.
My friend told me my trans is shot and it does have 200,000 miles but shifts fine as long as i dont touch the button. I am going to try to take the steering column apart soon and take a peak but it is -15 out right now and yeah that just gonna have to warm up a touch first! In the mean time i will keep reading trying to figure it out! Don't tell me my trans is shot
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I have 1997 ford explorer my 4x4 lights on dash flashing 5-6 times and four wheel drive kicks in and binds when I turn wheel left or right and engages while going straight . Happens on occasion put its happen more often. How to disconnect the 4-wheel drive from engaging.
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2003 ex 6.0 limited....300000 miles ...Automatic.Merry Christmas to all.My Transfer case will not shift into 4wd . Dash light for 4wd high and low works .I get no power to transfer case 2pin connector when key turned on.Also fuses 19,27,31,33,34,45,111 are all good when checked with meter.I also swapped 2 relays in engine compartment and no change.4 WD Switch on dash has power on Green/red wire I think it is for dash light and not for operation.
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I just installed a rebuild 4R100 transmission in my 2001 4x4 Excursion with the 7.3. I'm having trouble getting it to engage into gear. As I shift it into gear it sounds as if it wants to engage but doesn't. I have checked the fluid level and it at a normal range. I'm wondering if I didn't put enough fluid in the converter would that cause the problem.
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I had sold my Explorers but just picked up a 2000 Excursion V10 plow truck. It has been hacked and slashed I find cut wires under the dash and hood. I have tried everything to get the 4x4 to engage and no luck. It is used just for my driveway no road driving...
So question is: Can I engage the 4x4 at the transfer case so it will go, and stay in 4 wheel drive. If so do I take the shift motor off or does that big bolt by the motor do anything.
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Ok, I have a strange no start issue right now. My excursion won't start. I have power to everything and both batteries are at 12 volts or a bit more but the starter won't engage. If you turn the key to start all that happens is relays click under the dash and the airbag light flashes. It almost seems like the transmission is in gear. It did this twice about a month ago and has been fine ever since until today.
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I own a 2010 Jeep Liberty and this is my first RWD vehicle (when set in the normal 2WD mode of course). I notice that whenever I accelerate from a stop, on even a slightly wet road, the rear wheels spin and I get the traction light on my dashboard. I then need to take my foot of the gas and accelerate ohhhh soooo slowly. I've never had this kind of wheel spin on my previous AWD or FWD vehicles. Is this a known "feature" or RWD vehicles? Or maybe my one year old tires are inadequate? With my Liberty I could try switching to 4WD LOCK mode before attempting the acceleration to see if this works.
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My excursion has not been engaging the transfer case when the switch is turned on. I have ohmed the switch and also tried a known good switch from another superduty. I can get everything to work properly with a snap on MODIS by performing function tests.
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So I just bought a E99 f350 lariat. I wrecked the truck on the test drive and felt like the right this to do was to buy it. Finally have everything fixed and replaced on the truck and have run into other issues now.
While flushing the coolant system I started noticing that the starter was engaging randomly. After doing some research I found out it could be the GEM under the dash. Looked under the dash and I could here a sizzling sound and seen "smoke" /water vapor something coming off the GEM. And there is water coming through from the window/cab lights.
So. All the post I seen where from like 6 - 10 years ago. Where is the best place to buy a GEM? Will having the window replaced take care of the leaking issues on the window? What's the best after market cab lights? Cause I think they are leaking too.
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