Ford Excursion :: 4WD Will Not Disengage
Jun 3, 2017
I just put new seals in both front hubs because they were leaking. Now I have good readings when vacuum is applied. When I switch to 4wd the vacuum in hubs goes to about 15 in hg for about 30 seconds or so and my 4wd engages. After the 30 seconds the vacuum is released, I believe that is normal.
Now though my 4wd will not disengage. I get no vacuum pulse when I switch to 2wd, gauge stays at 0 in hg. I'm pretty sure a 5 in hg or so vacuum pulse is required to release hubs....is this correct? Would I be correct that the vacuum solenoid could be the issue or its connection?
Both locking hubs are in great shape and I spliced a vacuum gauge between hub and frame vacuum hose to get my readings. I drove it for 10 min hoping the hubs would disengage but they never did.
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After a lot of reading and troubleshooting, I have come to know that it takes vacuum to engage and vacuum to disengage the automatic locking hubs on the Ford F series and Excursion. Most indications is that ~ 15" hg is required to engage and approximately half that much to disengage them. The mechanism that either engages or disengages them acts similarly to a ball point pen. The full amount of vacuum causes the mechanism to travel to it's limit, where the hub is engaged, whereas half the amount of vacuum applied only causes the mechanism to travel to its midpoint, which is where is should be for disengagement.
In my case, I have tested for vacuum leaks, none are present. I have installed new Ford OEM hub assemblies, a new locking hub solenoid and have tested the function of my vacuum pump. It draws about 13.5" hg of vacuum on the system. I do not have any issues with HVAC controls in the cabin of the truck. When installing the new hubs, I ensured that they are unlocked, the inner spline assy spins freely and once installed, the wheel shaft spins freely by hand. When I shift to 4WD on the dash, the hubs engage and all is well.
Problem I am having is when I shift back to 2WD, the hubs remain locked. I can tell as the wheel shafts are not able to be spun freely by hand. I have tried backing the vehicle, etc. No luck. Furthermore, when monitoring vacuum while engaging and disengaging 4WD, I can see that the full vacuum (~13,5") is applied when engaging. What concerns me is that only 3.5 - 4.0" hg is applied when disengaging. This is certainly not enough to operate the mechanism to the point of disengaging the hubs.
I have considered replacing the vacuum pump as I am only getting 13.5" hg of vacuum, however, when I research the replacement part, many have indicated that a new one only draws about that much, so I do not see the value in replacement.
Have any of you dealt with the same or similar problem and if so, what was your resolution?
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2000 ranger, 4.0L 5spd 4x4
Recently my buddy's 2000 ranger's clutch stopped working, it wouldnt disengage. I checked the reservoir and it was empty, checked below and between the bellhousing and engine was soaked. I filled the reservoir up and attempted to bleed the system with my vacuum bleeder and it barely got any fluid out. Ordered a new slave cyl and just put it in today. You could see how wet the old one was when I took it out.
So today when I finished installing everything, I filled the reservoir and bled the system, lots of fluid coming through, everything seemed good, however the clutch still feels extremely light, and won't disengage. I looked at it through the inspection cover and there is maybe a 1/4" of movement total. I don't get why this thing is not working! How can you tell is the clutch master cylinder is bad?
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There is some kind of electrical issue. It might be the GEM (i really hope not), but it might be the shift on fly switch itself.
The 4x4 will engage, but when i turn the switch to 2h nothing seems to happen. Driving in reverse doesn't work. But sometimes it switch from 4h to 2h, just by turning the truck off and restarting it. If restarting doesn't work, then i have to pull the 5 fuse, let it sit, then put it back in. I read that this resets the GEM. (Number 5 fuse, middle row, 5th from the top).
Resetting the GEM usually does it, but not all the time. Sometimes it will still be in 4x4 again after resetting the gem. And then what is really weird, after driving it in 2h (after the gem reset) then turned it off and restarting it, it will go back into 4x4. All this happens with the switch set to 2h. So I have been having to reset the GEM, each time i restart it. (This was going on for a day or so.)
Any easy testing i can do? Do you think it could be the switch on the dash, or more likely to be the gem? I hope it isn't the gem. I don't want to have to pull a fuse each time to drive my truck.
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I have a 2000 ford f-150 4 wheel drive that will not disengage, I am down here in south fla where and don't put it in 4 wheel drive much, but yesterday I put in 4 wheel drive and I heard the click click and it engaged I put it in drive and drove it about 5-10 miles parked it and turned the switch to 2 wheel high and got out , got back in the truck turn her back on and the 4 by 4 lamp came one went off then came back on and stayed on and it still in 4 wheel drive and wont disengage.
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1993 Ranger XLT 4.0 AT. Initially replaced ECM for other problems and then noticed Cruise w/n disengage when brake depressed unless pedal is pushed several times and with more pressure. Put in another ECM and have same problem. Have replaced the brake switch and lights come on as they should. When pedal is pushed the vacuum dump valve on the pedal will dump the vacuum to the servo but when you release the brake pedal the cruise control kicks back in and speeds truck back to set speed.
So this tells me that the dump valve is only a fail-safe feature for when pedal is depressed and does not actually deactivate the servo. Everything else with the cruise works fine: On/Off switch, Set/Accelerate, Resume, Coast. How to proceed next? Like where to find speed control module and how to test it? How to check servo to see if it is getting or dropping voltage that will electrically disengage it, etc? Don't want just throw parts at it. The new ECU's that I used came from ECU Exchange in Florida and there still remains the possibility that they are still the problem.
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YouTube video : 2012-02-16_15-35-45_211 - YouTube
2nd problem is it hesitates a second or so before it goes into gear and clicks in hard, kind of like when you are low on oil, but its not low on oil. It also shifts hard. When I got it the column bolts were loose so the shifter was floppy, I am wondering is someone tried to fix it the wrong way. Also now its pretty stiff to move the shifter selector.
Also what tranny is in it, it may be some sort of heavy duty unit, it was an x electrical municipality vehicle, it appears to have an 8.8 and heavy duty rear springs. Door tag reads axle rd, tr D, and spr 2c...
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I've read many posts about ESOF and fault vacuum lines and how that will prevent 4x4 from engaging. I experienced a different problem this past weekend. Here's the situation...
Was about 1.5hr drive up to the mountains. Outside temp when we left the house: 10F. Outside temp when we arrived at destination: 9F. Quite a bit of road grime on the way up from sand, slush, and that magnesium chloride (or whatever they hell they put on the roads in an attempt to keep it from freezing). 4x4 worked fine on the way up. 4x4 light on dash was on, and I KNOW I could not have climbed the snow-covered forest roads without being in 4x4. Also, I could hear and feel the front hubs turning.
On the way home, once I got to where the roads were sufficiently ice free, I turned the dial on the dash back to 2WD. 4x4 light goes out. But I can hear and feel the front hubs are still turning. Toggled the switch back and forth a few times. 4x4 light would come and go with the toggled switch. But the hubs didn't disengage.
When I got back into town (outside temp now about 5), we stopped at a red light and I toggled the switch again. This time, the hubs disengaged. Is this a sign of bad vacuum? Or more an indication of faulty hubs??
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Is it possible that the clutch disengages but that the bearings are bad and its somehow still turning the compressor? Would a mechanic be able to diagnose this or would I just have to throw money at buying a new compressor? My first indication should have been that I get about 15-16mpg when I used to get 18+ occasionally.
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