Ford Excursion :: 4WD - Driver Side Hub Seems To Be Stuck In Locked Position
Dec 10, 2013
The drivers side Hub seems to be stuck in Locked Position. I lifted the Wheel and when I turn it the Front Drive shaft turns and you can feel a fair amount of resistance.
I lifted the Passenger side and it spins free. I then started it and put it in 4WD and the passenger side engaged and i could not free spin the wheel. I then lifted the drivers side again and it would not spin. Turned off 4WD and it spun again but moved the shaft.
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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Today my driver side seat belt got locked in the retracted position for no reason. I drove the truck to work, no issues with the seat belt, but when I got in to go get some lunch, I went to put the belt on and it moves about 2-3 inches out of the retractor and locks.
The other issue I'm having, is that I can't get the retractor cover off to see if theres something inside locking the belt or if it is going to need to be replaced.
How to get the cover off and if possible, fix the belt without replacing it.
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My driver's side air vent is stuck in the open position. I can coax it down with a piece of wire, and it will then (sort of) engage with the motor and move up automatically when activated (again with a bit of coaxing), but then gets stuck again... Not sure if it's the motor or gears/teeth on the vent itself...? Looking for instructions for removing the motor? Apparently it's straight-forward...?
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I have a 2010 LX and the third row seat on the driver side got stuck in folded position. Warranty on these parts is over.
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2011 Santa Fe limited fwd
Bought as 6 month old demo in 2011 and from day one rear driver side power window has gone up and down slower than other three windows. Going up decidedly worse. My fault for not having it looked at while still under warranty.
Behavior the same using either driver's switch or the rear switch.
Well, now it occasionally gets stuck in down position. Neither switch works. But, if I press switch and pull up on window I can eventually get it to close.
I looked at other posts and saw no clear solution for this intermittent problem.
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A relative's '04 EX Limited is having an odd problem. He put it in "4x4 Low" to back a trailer into a barn and after the task was complete the transfer case wouldn't shift out of low range. He tried multiple times and after about 5 minutes of fiddling around with it, it shifted into 4-Hi but wouldn't go back to 2-Hi. The hubs are in the "auto" position and will not manually unlock (the selector turns). 4x4 indicator on dash is not lit. Could the dash switch be bad? Why would the transfer case and hubs act up at the same time?
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Is it ok to keep my front hubs locked in and the switch in the 2wd position for everyday driving? Only reason I do it is because in auto it doesn't always go into 4wd.
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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Any trick? I folded down the larger (driver's side) middle seat to get a large payload in...now it won't pop back up...no matter how much lever pushing and seat-yanking I do. It's a 2001 Limited.
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2001 excursion 4'4 V10 XLT.
One or more of my door switches is stuck in open position. Door ajar light on and interior lights on.
Interior lights stay on for about 15 min than go off.
I have sprayed all 4 doors and both rear hatch lock assemblies several times with WD40 and electrical cleaner with no improvement.
When I open drivers door there is no key chime with key in cylinder. Could the hood switch cause this issue? How do I determine which door/doors is/are the offending crimimals?
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Ok so I got a good deal on a used F350. When I got it home I found the heater was stuck on defrost. I posted on here a few weeks ago with questions on what could be wrong. From that post I learned that my front passenger side hub is stuck locked in. I pulled the vacuum lines at every connection from the pump on and had good vacuum all of the way to the passenger side hub. I turned the axle shafts and found the drivers side is free the passenger side is locked.
I flipped the dash switch and heard the drivers side hub lock. Then I turned the axles again and found they were in fact both locked in. I flipped the switch back to 2H and the drivers side freed and the passenger side was still stuck locked in. So I pulled the passenger side hub off of the truck and found it was seized up. I put it back together and locked both hubs in manually until payday when I can pick up a new hub.
Yesterday we had a lot of ice! Where I park the pickup the front wheels drop into a low spot. I could not get backed out of my driveway with the front wheels in the hole and the rear wheels on ice, so I flipped the switch to 4x4 and tried again. It still could not pull out, the front wheels didn't seem to engage. Now I am thinking I have more troubles than just the one hub stuck locked in.
So, my questions now are, 1 if the passenger side hub is bad but both are locked in it should still go into 4x4 correct? 2, the 4x4 light on the dash lights up when I flip the switch. If I had a bad switch or fuse would I still get the same result (light on and drivers side hub clicking in)? Does this pickup have to move a few feet before it engages the 4x4 or should it click right in? And finally what is a short explination of how the 4x4 system works. The dash switch engages the solenoid on the firewall to switch vacuum down to the hubs but what else does it do? I assume it has some kind of switch or motor in the transfer case that engages the 4 wheel drive?
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I am able to operate my power drivers seat in all position except for reverse. My wife was the last one to drive and the seat is stuck in almost the full forward position. I can move the seat forward but not in reverse.
I've already looked under the seat for blockages along the railing and didn't see anything. I would try to remove the seat, but its positioned too far forward to access where I think the bolts would be. I did notice one unconnected wiring harness coming up from the floor under the seat, but it looks like it doesn't go to anything. Maybe its for models with heated seats or something because I don't have heated seats. My car by the way is a 2009 sonata GLS.
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Both passenger and driver front windows get stuck in down position. What do you think the problem is and can it be repaired by me?
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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Problems with the passenger side automatic mirror sticking in the down position (position it assumes when Touareg transmission is put into reverse). I have had my Touareg for about 1 week and the mirror does not return to the regular position when I place the transmission in drive.
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So I've noticed a problem. When I go to lock my doors with the keyfob my drivers side door doesn't lock. Manually I can turn the key and lock it. Now what's weird is my drivers door will lock when I press the lock button on the inside of the door(the button on the handle). So I'm pretty sure the actuator isn't bad since the door will lock via the inside button, maybe I'm wrong though? Not really a super bad problem but annoying nonetheless.
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Put the driver side rear seat down and now it won't come back up. It feels as though the latch isn't connected yet I can see the cable wrapped on it still. Need to tear into it... do the backs of the seats pop off?
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My 02 F250 is killing batteries. Also, when I try and lock the doors with the door lock switch, the doors lock then the driver side door almost immediately unlocks.
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This piece just blew all the coolant out of my vehicle. Pulled it off and headed to the parts store.
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