Ford Excursion :: 2011 - Temporary Stumble / Miss After Warm Up With Power Loss
May 28, 2016
2001 V10 160000 miles.
1st happened Wednesday on way back. Temps all fine but had been in stop and go traffic earlier. Truck was on cruise and felt like fuel cut. I disengaged cruise. Throttle would keep it running and within 5-10 seconds it caught and ran fine.
Connected and reconnected all injectors, coil connections, tb and MAF connections. Nothing noted loose. No codes on OBD reader.
Drove around town last couple days no issues. Today towing three dirt-bikes about 45 miles. towards the end of the 45 miles. she stumbled as we crossed an intersection. Then caught and ran fine. Did it twice on way back home towards the end of the trip.
Had OBD reader in gauge mode with ignition advance, tp sensor, voltage and gallons per hour showing. None seemed to change when it stumbled.
Fuel pump is about 2 years old. Coils maybe 4 or 5 years old. Aftermarket. No codes on OBDII reader.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2013 F150 with a 3.5 Ecoboost. I was pulling my 16' aluminum boat on a two lane road and pulled out to pass another truck. I stomped on the accelerator and the motor lost power. I limped back into my lane and noticed the engine light blinking. If I had to describe it, it seemed like the motor was running in some sort of "limp mode."
After about a minute or so, I let up on the accelerator and the light stopped blinking where the motor began to run normally. Although I only "stomped" on accelerator once since I had the issue, I haven't had the problem since. The truck has 44k on it..
View 6 Replies
OK, 4th time in a week that my truck has had this problem... Seems to only be when the truck is already warmed up, restarting after sitting for a few minutes. Starts up just fine, but as soon as I drop it into gear it begins to stutter and stumble, running rough as can be and absolutely no throttle response. I have to kill the engine and restart the truck for it to correct itself, but the restart takes up to 5 seconds of extended cranking to finally fire up. Today is the first time I actually got a CEL and a code: P0078. Only had the truck 8 days now...
View 13 Replies
So over the past couple months when driving on the highway I would notice that sometimes my car would lose all power and slowly coast to a stop, but then the power comes back on and I'm off after a few seconds. It happened again today and I notice when I do hit the gas when it decides not to accelerate my boost gauge shows that there is vacuum building up in the engine. It just doesn't make sense to me. Would my car be getting thrown into a limp mode? Or is it something to do with fueling?
View 4 Replies
I live in NM. It's been excessively hot here this summer, 95+ daily for the past 2 months.
Yesterday while I was driving I noticed a weird feel in the accelerator pedal. Almost like a mini-misfire. It was intermittent. Maybe did it 6 or so times in a 10 minute time span. My wife couldn't feel it in the passenger seat but I definitely felt it through the pedal. There was no MIL light during or after the incident.
We get home, she gets out on the passenger side and there was a strong fuel smell (tank, filler, and filter are on that side). By the time I got the car up in the air and the rear passenger tire off and fender liner out the smell had dissipated (probably evaporated due to the high temperature). There were no noticeable leaks. No dripping. Before I had it in the air I definitely smelled fuel underneath the car around the rear passenger side. I opened the hood and didn't smell or see anything in the engine bay.
I called VW customer care and they informed me this recall of the fuel tank ventilation valve was performed back in 2009 but the symptoms explained in the recall are exactly what I experienced. I verified the recall was done using my VIN number search on NHTSA's Safer Car site.
I can imagine that although the recall was done 7 years ago, it's still possible for this ventilation valve to fail. Especially because the recall states high ambient temps are a factor.
I have a legit VCDS but have not scanned it yet. Wife is off today so I took her car. I plan to go home, scan the car, and try to reproduce the issue before taking the fender liner out again. I have the means to do my own work but if I have to do something like drop the fuel tank I'll probably take it in.
View 9 Replies
I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
View 4 Replies
Alright so I have an 03 5.4 with 144000 miles. once it warms up to temperature it has a miss and low end power is low and no fuel mileage gets 12 to 13 if I'm lucky. From idle to 3000 rpm its doggy get it over 3000 rpm it runs great. All new plugs and coil packs. What it could be. When the motor is cold it runs great has most its power.
View 3 Replies
1997 F150 4X4 4.6 engine with 285,000 miles
Truck was running perfect down the road, then suddenly it lost power and started missing at all RPM ranges. So i keep driving another 6 miles and then POOF the miss is gone and truck runs perfect. Couple hours later i hop back in it and its running good and then suddenly it starts missing and loosing power again except this time it never started running good again. Never did throw a CEL.
I hooked up my SCT Tuner (for my F250) to check for codes and came up with P0171 which indicated one of the banks was running lean, but no missfire codes. Did a search on here and learned the common problems(vacum leak) of that code.
Found the vacum leak at the PVC elbow, so i replaced both ends of the plastic tube.
Pulled the throttle body elbow and cleaned out the clogged up EGR ports.
Put a new air filter in and took the MAF out and cleaned it with MAF cleaner.
Put it back together and it idled way better but still ran like crap with the bad miss/sputter. Ran it down the road a few miles and came back thinking of the catalytic converter, i crawled underneath and it was glowing red. It does run and feel like the converter is stopped up but if i have a dead miss and dumping fuel wouldnt that make it glow red to or no? Still no CEL and now no codes.
Also i held the engine at about 1000 rpms where i could here the miss good and unplugged the fuel injectors one at a time to see if that made a difference. Each one i unplugged made it miss worse, so wouldnt that tell me that all 8 cylinders are firing?
And i changed the spark plugs (motorcraft) 250 miles ago.
So it still cranks and runs smooth after a cold soak overnight and then after a mile of driving or less it starts the dead miss/sputter and loss of power.
View 7 Replies
Had this truck a few years now, and it has always had a slight miss/hesitation and maybe a few codes. The timing chain skipped a tooth and the truck was down for about a year. I have 4 other trucks, so it wasn't a big deal. I finally had time to put a new oil pump, chains, guides, tensioners, phasers etc. The truck actually runs very well and quiet. But, now misses far more than I remember it doing.
When driving in town constant at 25-30 mph occasionally it will loose power for a brief moment(<1 second) and then be fine, the security light on the dash turns on for a few seconds. It drives at 55-65 just fine, unless I am going up a hill or something else increasing the load.
2004 5.4 3v 2wd
CEL-
P0453 (fuel tank pressure issue)
P0351 (ignition coil a primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
P0356 (ignition coil f primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
The coil packs are new, and I have injectors on order. Also found this thing on the back of the motor, it connects to the fuel rail on the drivers side. Where it should go. I looked on my other trucks. But my other 04-4wd has a box by the battery it connects to, but mine doesn't have any of that stuff. And my 08 doesn't have anything like this at all.
And a pix of the truck in question.
View 2 Replies
2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
View 3 Replies
This is more of an annoyance than a threat to driveability (so far) but it has me and the mechanics I deal with stumped. 94 GMC 350 with about 175 thousand miles. Prior to my emissions test I cleaned and gapped the conventional plugs, inspected the cap and rotor and gently cleaned off a small amount of accumulated 'snow' on the contact points and put a couple of cans of Seafoam in the tank. I passed the test without issue but for some unknown reason the truck has developed an irregular stumble at idle especially when hot.
I replaced the plugs and the stumble became less noticeable but still there. Mechanic has verified no problem with cap and rotor, ignition wires, coil, PCV valve, coolant temp sensor but did discover a very small leak in the intake manifold gasket which has been remedied but with no effect on the stumble. I had the truck out for a two hour highway drive today at sustained speed of 70mph and it ran beautifully but soon as I came back into town and hit the first stop light I noticed the stumble plus the tail pipe is too sooty after that much hwy driving. There are no stored codes and the SEL has never come on.
View 5 Replies
For the past few weeks I have had a bizarre issue with my 2010 Sonata GLS. If you unlock all doors (press the FOB unlock button twice), get in, close the door and then turn the key and attempt to start the car, all power is lost to the the interior and with no lights, radio etc. The car is literally dead and won't start. If I open the drivers side door and then close it again, all power comes back and I can start the car. All radio stored stations are lost, the clock is reset and usually the trip odometer is reset too. Other times, if I just press the FOB unlock once to unlock just the drivers side door, the issue does not apparently seem to happen. What the issue may be?
View 3 Replies
This last April I was towing my trailer back from camping approx 125 miles when I detected a loss of power and a slight miss. I managed to make it home. It wasn't until I made it home that the engine finally started coding. Miss on start, a couple of cylinders missing and output shaft speed sensor circuit failure. So naturally, I decided to do what I felt needed done anyways, change all coils and plugs. Oddly the problem got worse to the point where I almost didn't make it home after test driving it, it kept stalling out and was difficult to keep running.
After some research and advice from others, I started replacing some components; MAF sensor,IAC valve, output shaft speed sensor. Nothing. In fact now the truck wont move, I start it up it idles a little rough, but then I put it into gear and with in seconds she shuts her self down. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pressure and it is in specs. I've now had it towed to two mechanics neither of which have any solution. They've put expensive computers up to it and still nothing. I really do not know what to do at this point. Lastly the only code that continues to come up is P0720, output shaft speed sensor circuit failure, I really miss my truck!
View 9 Replies
When I take off from a start it will intermittently stumble or hesitate, seems to be around 1500 rpm. have also noted it at higher speed while cruising. its more like a momentary power cut than a miss fire.
So far I have done the following
new fuel filters
clean MAF
new PCV valve
new spark plugs
check all hoses and plugs etc
injector clean
checked techstream for codes. there is one for a heated O2 sensor but dont think thats it.
2002. SC430
View 3 Replies
I have a 00 Accent with 132k miles, I replaced the motor a year ago with a correct 2000 Hyundai 1.5 with 50k miles. I replaced everything that I could at the time, timing belt , starter, water pump, and clutch. It has been running fantastic getting 40 miles per gallon with zero problems , However in the last week I have noticed a rough idle that seems to miss with a vibration that it didn't have before. I have a noticeable loss of power and torque. My miles per gallon has also dropped to about 25 mpg. My check engine light is not on. I will check the plugs and change the air filter today but I would like to know what else could be causing the problem as I am not really sure what to check.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1992 k1500 5.0L. The pickup seems to run good, or at least better when it's cold and engine isn't to operating temp. But once it reaches temp it loses a noticeable amount of power, as well as has a "dead spot" in throttle response. From about 1/2 to 3/4 it's like nothing happens you push the pedal but no response. Only at about 3/4 once it down shifts then you get an increase in speed. So now back to power loss. It is bad enough that just to maintain a highway speed of 60mph it will downshift even on very small hills and on flat ground the pedal is about 3/4 of the way to the floor.
Some history: It has a rebuilt transmission in it with a 2000 rpm stall converter instead of stock(so two questions one when I re installed the kick down cable could I have adjusted it wrong and could this cause my issue, and what's the proper way to adjust? Second could the 2000 rpm stall converter cause any issues?)
It has a new distributor, cap, rotor, along with plugs and wires. I recently installed: knock sensor, map sensor, coolant temperature control sensor, tps sensor, egr valve, pcv valve, ecm, rebuilt the throttle body, as well as a few other things I'm probably forgetting.
I suspect the engine is running rich because the exhaust tail pipe has a lot of soot(it has no cat was that way when I bought it but it has way more soot than it should even with no cat.) I just checked fuel pressure and it's right at 11 to 12 psi. I haven't pulled plugs yet to confirm rich condition, but last time I changed them they were all black as coal.
View 6 Replies
My uncle was pulling his fiver to the beach yesterday with his 2011 f-350 6.7. He lost power, the truck got very loud, and there is a very strong stale kerosene smell in the cab. Strong enough to require the windows be down for ventilation. He was able to limp on into the campground and has an appointment with the dealership Monday. The truck has 19,000 miles and is still covered under the extended warranty.
View 8 Replies
Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
View 3 Replies
Getting DTC P0401 on my 2011 with 92K miles. First time I got the CEL, we were on vacation, so I read the code, took a screen shot, then cleared it. Called my normal dealer, setup an appt, verified that they thought the truck was safe to drive. Coming home from vacation, I was pulling the TT in my sig, and noticed significant loss of power on hills that I have pulled many times before that I couldnt even hold 55 on now. Transmission dropped into 4th a couple times, on hills that it would sometimes stay in 6th, or at most drop to 5th.
CEL stayed off for a week , and came back on again. The funny thing is that after a day or 2, the CEL went back out on its own. I read the codes the P0401 is still there as a stored code(I did not clear this time). Around town the truck drives fine, the only thing I noticed was the decrease in power when towing. Truck is at the dealer now. TECH "isn't convinced" yet that there is a problem. He is not finished diagnosing yet, and I am sure that he has specific tests to run, but I am starting to fear that I will be getting the call to come get my truck.
View 6 Replies
My 2011 6.7 suddenly lost power, started making noise and then stalled out.
After finding out that there are zero 24 hour service companies available in the LA area, I was able to get it towed to the local Ford dealer.the next day they told me it had dropped the #5 cylinder and that they would have to tear into it to find out what happened.
While I realize that any thoughts on the situation would be primarily idle speculation, what would cause this to happen at only 125,000 miles.
View 14 Replies
