Used a 2010 or newer SD axle for there Coil conversion ? I did and am having abs issues. It's to cold to spend a lot of time outside figuring it out . I have these codes c1155, c1230,c1233,c1234. The right front sensor is brand new and the speedo works fine. Are the hubs maybe not compatible? Sensors plugged right in.
View 14 RepliesImmediately after replacing both front hub/rotors (and front pads and wheel bearings), my ABS light came on and will not go away. I finally ran codes a couple weeks ago while troubleshooting my CPS problem which left me stranded on the interstate while trying to get to the airport for a business trip.
Back in December, all I did was remove, clean, and reinstall the sensors like I always do whenever I have to R&R the rotors. I can't find any damage to the wires or connection points. I have re-removed and reinstalled each sensor again. I have cleared the codes, but once I start pulling out of the driveway, the codes come right back again for both front wheels.
There were absolutely no symptoms prior to the rotor replacement job, and this has been an ongoing and increasingly irritating visual issue ever since I did the brake job back in early December (I can't NOT look at the ABS light every time I start the truck, and I HATE seeing it stay lit)!
What bugs me the most is that I'm getting codes for BOTH sensors after replacing BOTH rotors. I MUST have gotten something wonky, but can't figure out what it was. Now I did replace all the drive line u-joints at the same time, but I never touched anything on the pumpkin or tranny in the process.
So, I have two questions..
1) Possible causes?
2) Possible solutions (I don't want to just start throwing new parts indiscriminately)?
From what I've read, Roland posted acceptable ohm values for the front sensors a couple years ago, so I can check that tonight.
I have had an intermittent ABS light for a while now. Since I have gotten the injector o-ring issues, and oil consumption problems nailed down, I am starting to check other things off the list. I have 2 codes:
C1229 Speed Wheel Sensor Rear Center Coherency Fault
C1230 Speed Wheel Sensor Rear Center Input Circuit Failure
Bought an '04 Aviator 2wd on Saturday. ABS light is on almost all of the time, but it has turned off a few times. Pulled a C1155 code. I removed the left front sensor, and there was no dirt, metal, debris, etc in the hole. Before I buy a new sensor, is there a test procedure to follow on the old sensor??
View 2 Replies1997 and up F-series trucks. If your ABS light comes on, it's about a 90% chance it's a bad rear axle speed sensor. If you scan it (or have it scanned for you) and the DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) C1229 or C1230 come up, thats probably your problem. I'm a Ford mechanic and I repair about 2 or 3 of these a day. The magic number seems to be 40,000 miles, but I've seen them go sooner or long after that. It's VERY easy to change, it's on top of the axle housing. Just disconnect the electrical connector and remove the 3/8 bolt and it's outta' there. If you don't have access to diagnostic equipment to clear the codes afterwards, simply drive the vehicle a little and the computer will clear the light from the dash. The computer is constantly performing system checks and will realize the sensor is working correctly and shut off the light.
View 11 RepliesMy O/D Light flash some times, no codes thrown. What could cause it?
View 9 RepliesI have my excursion sitting in a parking lot near my house. The ex will not start, it turns over but not starting? I hooked up my SCT tuner to read the codes, and it is pulling nothing. The Check engine, check gauges and battery light is on. Would a different scanner read the codes?
View 13 RepliesComing home from spring break towing the TT, the Check Engine light illuminates. Seems to be sputtering at idle, but otherwise OK, so we continued home.
Scanner lists the P0171 and P0174 codes. Ok, where to begin? based on internet info, started by cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body. When I pulled apart the intake, noticed that the grommet which feeds the MAF in the air intake had become separated letting air bypass the MAF. Hence the reason for the codes.
If you get these codes, check the grommet for the wires feeding the MAF in the air intake to make sure it hasn't become separated from the intake. No more codes.
The X has been running great, well good enough, lately with no issues. I left work the other morning, and apparently the X didn't want to wake up that early. As soon as I started it up, the check engine light came on and it was running like crap. Had a bad hesitation all the way home. It feels like it is misfiring, but only under load. It doesn't do it if I brake torque it or Rev it up. Only while driving.
The codes I am getting are in the P035x family (typed that way for future searches). P0353 and P0358 are the codes I am getting (along with 4x4 codes for the vacuum solenoid...but that's the solution to other problems not relevant to this!). Being codes for the primary circuit, I popped the hood and checked out the connectors. Both connectors are fine, and tightly connected. I did notice however that cylinders 3 and 8 have other than OEM coil packs on them. These are the only 2 cylinders with those coil packs (they are white and the other 8 cylinders have black coils).
I don't want to just throw parts at it, and I'm not getting a hard miss fire code, just the 2 above. I might try to swap the coils with other cylinders tonight and see if the codes move to those cylinders. It has run like this a few times, but never set a code, and turning it off and back on has "fixed"this in the past.
And just for complete disclosure, while looking for where I saved a password, I found notes from August last year where I pulled codes, and these two codes were present then, with a cylinder 7 hard miss fire code. I replaced the c7 coil with motorcraft cleared the codes, and P0353 and P0358 went away and I haven't seen them since. The plugs are brand new and only have about 1000 miles on them (changed them in September when repairing the misfire and I don't drive it much).
Does the car store a code if the airbag lights comes on and then goes off the next time i start it up.
View 4 RepliesThis is the third time this has happend in a week I used my torque app but it says no fault codes but the warning lights are clearly lit and wont turn off unless I shut down the car. Its a 2012 with 8,000 mile?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
So on Thursday night I replaced all of the plugs and boots on my 01 v10. I used Autolite 103's and Autolite boots. On Saturday the truck threw a code for cylinder 8. I bought a bag of 8 used coils off a buddy who has a mustang buy a few months ago so I put one on, cleared the code and the miss went away. On the way home tonight the truck started missing hard, but no CEL. I use torque, so i did a scan anyway and it pulled a code for cylinder 7. I haven't been out to troubleshoot yet. Could I have done something wrong for 2 coils to go in such a short amount of time? I followed the write up in the tech folder. Used proper torque specs, dielectric grease, and anti-seize on everything.
View 6 RepliesI have not yet managed to fix the Ex, i have replaced the CPS with a Delphi 101 cps, and the ICP sensor. The truck ran great for almost 3 hours, but then started acting up again. Codes I pull are P1000 and P1280.
The p1280 code is probably from a loose connector, i got injection pressure of 728psi constant at idle and during low rpms, will fix that tomorrow, but that is probably not what causes the hiccup, but if my new one is function correctly, then i might be something else? The old was from stock and had an oily connector, i have replaced the pigtail though.
The funny thing is, that when i open the hood, the rpms will climb up around 200rpms at idle, to right under 1000rpms, it will do this slowly, takes about 10 seconds. Close the hood and it goes back to normal, so maybe a vacuum leak? When i slam the hood shut, it will sometimes do the hiccup. I have managed to loose 2 of the bolts to the valve cover, but it sits tightly.
Really lost on this truck, what can cause this hiccup, when it does it, the water-fuel light comes on (got a new filter in it). I also have a check engine light, but if i delete the codes when its running, it goes away until startup again.
Another thing i have noticed is that the truck is slower to start then normal, before i got this problem, the truck would start right up when turning the key, now i have to crank it for about a second more.
I have had a wet weather issue twice, once last fall and once this spring. Both times were very wet and damp conditions causing a sputtering and chugging and dying at lights, both times no codes and after drying out in brother's shop it went away. Now this weekend up at the cabin it reappeared, again very wet conditions. Replaced the MAF...no change. Sputtered and chugged my way home with it killing at most stop signs/lights. Finally got home and couldn't even back the TT up the driveway, it would kill. Finally threw numerous codes (misfire in cylinders 1 and 9, and misfire in first 1000 revolutions). I'm thinking COPs as the plugs are not that old and the little research I have had time to do suggests this also. If it is COPs, I have heard there are some to avoid and some that are recommended?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 Excursion with the V-10. Two weeks ago, the upper nipple on the radiator cracked and I overheated. Was towed home and replaced the radiator with a quality aftermarket one. I then drove to the whiz wash and cleaned the antifreeze off of the engine.
Immediately I noticed a slight "miss" when cold, particularly when backing out of my driveway. I have no lights on the dash and it is throwing no codes. The miss gets much better (almost gone) when the truck is warmed up.
2000 Ford Ex 5.4 V8 175K miles
Top of radiator (plastic part) had a small crack and started leaking on drivers side. Fixed with JB Weld. Ran fine for a day. Now I have a bad misfire and codes P0301 and P0302 (Cyl 1 and 2). Cleaned MAF and checked Air Filter. All good. Plugs replaced at dealer less than 20K miles ago.
So I took off Cyl 5 (easiest) and found that the boot is fine but the collar on the boot is done for. Can this cause the issue?
So on Christmas day I turned on my truck and all was well. I had family over and we were going up to my range to do some Christmas day target shooting. I let it warm up for about 20 minutes we then loaded up and headed out.
When I locked the hubs I soon found out my 4WD was not working? Due to the cold? It worked fine last time out and now not at all. I decided to forge ahead in 2WD, Sure enough we got stuck in deep snow. I had to gun the engine off and on to get out and as soon as I broke free (CHECK ENGINE) appeared for the first time ever. Worst Christmas ever!
The truck is running fine, full power and no irregular noise from the engine. So I ran the test and P0303, P0307 misfires on cylinder 3 and 7 appeared. This whole post is about me doing a full tune up this spring the truck is parked since Christmas and will stay parked until I do a full tune up.
New Plugs.
New Wires.
New Coils.
New oil filter and oil. Changed last year with less than 2000 miles but changing anyways.
Flush radiator and add new radiator fluid.
Clean air filter (Aftermarket, It is washable).
Is there anything I'm missing? Also, any tips on figuring out the 4WD issue?
I just returned from deployment overseas, excited to get in my truck and ride with the windows down..... Only to find it losing power when I accelerate. It will slowly gain speed but it seems to have no turbo/boost. So I start down the road troublehooting.
I have pulled the EGR valve and it was clean
Checked Map hose, cleaned port on intake
Changed the ICP
Changed the IPR
New Powermax turbo
VGT learn done
New batteries
New DC power 250
Pulled the EBP sensor and cleaned. Even tried it unplugged
New fuel pump
New FICM with Atlas 40 from ED
Truck is 2003 6.0L Ex 163k
New ARP studs/gaskets/
Has a tune but also ran it in stock; no change
Flushed and filled with CAT ELC
Has new BPD oil cooler relocate behind passenger batt
So for my scan gauge numbers....
My deltas are good; 201/196
When I pull out, and normally drive my IPR will do 86.7 in the throttle but ICP won't go above 15-1700. If I floor it the IPR will jump to the 86 but the ICP drops to 700-800 and it's obvious the truck just doesn't have power. It feels like everything is working. Turbo spools and it acts like it wants to roll coal.... But it won't. That ICP drops and she falls on her face.
I ran the SCT code and usually don't get anything except the 1000 which isn't anything. I once got a P0278 and P2623
I even tried another ICP today. The pigtails were clean and I had already swapped them last year.
What else ???? It starts fine. So it shouldn't be the HPOP but that's all that's left really. When I do start it, it starts right away but sometimes will kinda rev or run into the start. Either way of all the troubleshooting steps it seems normal. I just don't have the power.
Error codes -
P0674 - Glow Plug N0. 4 Circuit Malfunction
P0475 - Exhaust Backpressure Control Valve Malfunction
P0381 - Glow Plug Indicator Circuit Malfunction
how to fix?
I get these beeps continuously for the first ten minutes of driving.
I have a small problem that has been going on for about the last 6 months. It only appears once in a while, and only when I have parked facing uphill for longer than a day or so. Upon first start (cold) after sitting pointed uphill for a day or two, it starts real rough and sputters a bit. Then when I check codes, I always have a pending P0316 (misfire within the first 1000 revolutions) along with a P0306 or P0301. No dash lights or anything.
Since those two cylinders are at the front of the motor, could it be that the fuel is leaking back down the rail and leaving those two injectors dry? It isn't always both cylinders, sometimes one or the other. If this is the sign of something bigger on the horizon, I would like to have a heads up.