I just purchased a new to me 05.
PO, had a pioneer H/U installed, however the 4 rear speakers have no sound.
The rear of the radio seems to have everything plugged into it correctly.
My steering wheel controls work fine.
I'm guessing the rear volume/controller is canceling out the rear speakers???
If so what can I do to make the speakers play? I don't need the rear control to work.
I have a OEM base model head unit and today both front speakers stopped working out of nowhere I pulled the head unit out to see if everything was plugged in and it all was snug.. I checked all the fuses too. Is there any other way to check to see if its my head unit thats bad or the speakers? And I guess my second question is if I replace my head unit with a aftermarket one do I still need to retain the stock unit? My sunfire had that problem I needed to put my oem radio in the trunk and hook it into my new aftermarket one. I did try adjusting the fade and all the setting too with no luck.
View 3 RepliesLooking for the easiest route to get my video cable from a rear (aftermarket) flip down monitor back up to the head unit. The monitor flips down pretty much in line with the back rest of the 2nd row (for reference purposes). I am thinking to the side down the pillar and under the carpet might be the easiest.
View 3 RepliesWhat harnesses or adapters do I need to get my some aftermarket speakers plus my aftermarket subwoofer hooked up. I have a 4 channel for the speakers and a mono for the subwoofer.
Trying to figure out whether to go this route or buy the wiring harnesses and dash kit needed for my old pioneer d3 double din HU and hooking up RCA's that way.
So as of last night my radio is not cooperating. I had the battery disconnected due to other work on the Ex and now I am having radio problems. When the key is turned the radio "buzzes", from the unit itself, not the speakers. It seems as though as soon as power is applied it is trying to eject a disc but no buttons are pressed. It lasts about 15 seconds and then stops. I also have CD error showing on the display. I have read the multitude of issues with the factory head unit but hoping I can fix it, maybe CD is just stuck?
View 8 RepliesIf I take out the stock non audiophile head unit will I lose the reverse sensor functions?
View 1 Repliesmy 07 Camry has about 80k miles on her. I got fed up with the boring stock head unit and decided to get a new 8" headunit that would match the interior touch screen and all. Anyways I'm a fan of my AC as I normally use it. I took it to the audio shop to get my new headunit installed. I drive a couple hours enjoying it and decide to put on the ac. My problem is The air conditioning is only coming out of the passenger side now very cold and stale warm air is coming from the driver side vents. I can't figure it out. I got upset and went back to the shop to see if maybe they did something wrong and didn't hook something up correctly.
So they did everything they could and showed me that it wasn't any of there doing and that it's extremely "coincidental" that this happened immediately after they installed it. Anyways I'm also noticing that the light pointer above the dial on all 3 dials on the AC unit are not lighting up. And the light I am talking about is the pointer light that points and which measure of heat/cool comes out. The middle buttons still work and are lighting up as well as the off/on ac portions night back lights are working properly.
Also I have only the standard AC unit. Not dual climate. All my vents are set correctly as I never really mess with them. is there a possibility they could have damaged the Blend Door actuator. And know where the blend door actuator is located on a camry?
My 2009 Sonata GLS stock sat radio, dvd head unit stopped working. Appears no power to it, won't light up or anything? Looked at the fuse shows OK? The radio / dvd fuse circuit, shows the led-digital clock is also on same circuit. The clock is working fine. I can not find any of the radio's wiring loose or disconnected. Has my radio gone bad already? Car has ~ 14,300 mi on it.
View 2 RepliesI have 2005 4x4 6.0 excursion. The rear heater stop working. I just get cold air in the back seats.
View 4 Replies2002 F250 diesel ... I found these two plastic pieces yesterday on the floor near the 4X4 shifter. I noticed the other day when i step on the brake the rear view camera in the head unit comes on, so i am thinking they are either a part of the brake switch on the pedal assembly, or something to do with the shift tube.
View 2 RepliesAlright i have one here to stump everyone.... My uncle called me and his 05 f150 STX left speakers both front and back aren't working. I took a look at it the other day, i switched his radio with my radio from my 06 f150 stx, then I switched my front speaker out. Didn't work. I looked at his back speaker and the magnet on the speaker was stuck in the door. I checked fuses and don't see any blown.
View 1 RepliesSo I just replaced the stock head unit in my 2005 ford f150 with a brand new Sony one. Install went pretty smooth and I had every thing working pretty quick. So about an hour after the install I got in my truck to drive home and everything was working fine until about 5 minutes into driving all the door speakers just stopped working.
(Music was not blaring). Sub still works but that's it. No sound from the door speakers what so ever. I checked the fuse and the head unit. And all the fuses related to audio in the fuse box. Everything looks normal. Head unit powers on fine. Just no sound from any door speakers. The only thing that plays sound is the sub.
Just having a little stereo work being done and noticed a wet floor under the insulation after removing the rear side panel covering the a/c unit. Is that normal? I read some folks have had to seal the fan box...is that most likely the issue?
View 2 RepliesInstalled Kenwood DDX7701HD unit and I have lost right side speakers. Used Metra Axxess TYTO-1 harness along with ASWC-1. Also had bad battery cell and replaced battery. I get plenty of sound from drivers area but when I adjust balance to right there is no sound at all there. At this point my ASWC-1 cycles through but isn't recognizing radio. That issue can wait unless it is part of this issue.
View 4 RepliesDriver side rear seat speakers are not working. Are they on a fuse? Haven't had time to look over the owner's manual. If not fused what else could be happening?
View 4 RepliesOk, I've read about the blower motor resistor, and everyone says you should have HIGH speed on the fan.
2002 Excursion with digital display.
I turn the truck on, then turn on the blower. A small puff of air comes out then shuts off completely. I can hear the direction doors opening when i change between foot and face A/C.
Is this the blower resistor that needs changing?
Well I've got 54K on the Ex and we'll be heading out for what will likely be our last long towing trip through some pretty serious terrain. I've got Hawk LTS pads on the front and those are doing really well but I wanted to change out my rear pads...upon closer inspection I still had about 1/3 of the pads left...but since I had torn everything apart...I installed the new pads so here's some pictures and a little write up as I go.
First jack up the rear of the Ex and make sure you support it with jack stands for safety.
Next remove the wheels and here's what you got
What you are looking for are 4 bolts on the back side. There are 2 caliper mounting bolts and 2 slide bolts. Torque values for the caliper mounting bolts are 166 ft-lbs and for the slide bolts 42 ft-lbs. I believe the caliper mounting bolt is an 18mm and the slide bolt is a 12 or 13mm (sorry I can't remember right now). But here's what you will be looking for...notice I'm reaching behind the rotor to take this picture outwards...
You will want to LOOSEN the caliper mounting bolts FIRST but DO NOT REMOVE them yet...then loosen the slide bolts...once both are loose...remove the caliper mounting bolts and SUPPORT the caliper...do NOT let it hang by the hose.
Here's a close up of my old pads...you can see there's still plenty of meat...but I was here and it don't take long to change them...
Remove the slide bolts and then separate the slide from the caliper
Next you will need to remove the slide pins from their holes...CAREFULLY grip the top of the rubber boot and slide if off of the pin as you are pulling hte pin up and out. Work with one slide pin at a time to not confuse them...one has a NOTCH and that will go on top the of the caliper...but if you work one at a time...there's no confusion. Pull out the slide pin and clean it off...you will need some high temperature brake grease to LIGHTLY lube up the pins before reinserting them. IF the pins are STUCK (mine weren't but I've heard they can be...) you may need to apply a little heat to try and break them free. Inspect the boots to make sure they aren't cracked or dry rotted and once you apply a THIN layer of grease...reinsert them into the hole and slip the boot back over the ridges. It will be obvious for the orientation when you reinstall the slide onto the caliper...basically the "flat" edge goes against the caliper and the "round" or "notch" sticks out the end...
At this point you will need to "press" the caliper pistons back into the caliper...there are a number of ways to do this...you can get a caliper tool from Autozone (they give it to you for free you just leave a deposit on your credit card so you bring it back!)...or you can do what I do...use a big C-clamp and I use my old brake pads to press against...compress the pistons back into the caliper...BUT REMEMBER TO LOOSEN YOUR MASTER CYLINDER CAP FIRST...when you compress your piston...the fluid in the lines gets forced back into the master cylinder...if you don't open the lid...pressure could be built up...
Here's the new pads installed and the slide bolts barely engaged to hold the slide to the caliper...Do not tighten these bolts until you have reinstalled the caliper onto the mounting brackets and snugged down the caliper mounting bolts.
Here's a view looking DOWN from above with the slide bolts AND mounting bolts engaged but NOT tightened yet.
Now make sure you torque everything up on this side and move to the other side and repeat the steps.
Once you finish the second side make sure you tighten your master cylinder cap.
At this point I also rotated my tires...but if you aren't doing that...simply return your tires to the Ex and torque your lug nuts and you are done.
I can typically change brake pads in about 30-45 minutes...they aren't that hard at all.
Next step...start the truck and pump the brakes to return brake pressure...then take the truck for a drive.
It is important to also "bed in your pads"...this involves a number of 30mph to 5mph HARD STOPS to heat up the pads and rotors and allow for a transfer of brake pad material to the rotors...you'll smell "hot brakes" when you have done it enough...typically about 6-8 hard stops. Then let the truck cool down without your foot on the brakes.
I didn't mess with the parking brake while I was back there because I had tested it just prior to my starting and it is holding nicely...I didn't feel like messing with it incase it is all rusted and fell apart on me.
I took my sub and amp out of my SD when i traded it in and I want to put it in my new truck but it has a stock head unit... I am not wanting to put a new deck in so I am curious how to do this with the stock stereo. I have a 2012 f150....
View 14 RepliesI have an 02 f150 xl, I'm taking the stock head unit out and replacing it with a Pioneer 1900. I didn't buy a connector I'm just splicing the wires together, I know I shouldn't do it that way but it's to late now, what my problem is, there are three ground wires coming from the truck and the new head unit only has one ground, I just looked wiring diagrams up for both head units and that got pretty much everything done, just there are two speaker ground wires that are black and green, and then a regular black ground wire, I'm not sure if I should connect them all together or cap them separately, because I connected everything up and the head unit wouldn't turn on...
View 2 Replies2005 f150 xlt supercrew. Battery dead overnight. New battery installed, and it was drained after a few days use, then an overnight sit. I hooked up my meter as required to check for an amp draw. 5.87a draw. Disconnected alternator, no change. Started pulling fuses. Fuse #107 Power Door Lock(BSM) pulled drops down to 1.04a. Radio power fuse pulled also, drops to .033a. I have had a problem with the 6 disc changer trying to load, read, eject etc so I will be changing out the head unit. I am stumped as to what to try for the 107 fuse though.
View 14 RepliesHave my new-to-me 2006 F250 and managed to wire up my back up camera, USB connectors, and run the wire for my microphone. My only hang-up is trying to get the wire to stay up under the headliner. I ran it across under the steering wheel, up the A-pillar, and out behind the headliner and I want to attach it on the side of the overhead console. I tried simply stuffing the cable between the roof and headliner but that didn't seem to work. Trying a non-permanent solution so not wanting to use glue or other adhesive in case I need to replace the mic someday. Can successfully make mic cord stay underneath the headliner?
View 1 Replies