Ford Excursion :: 2005 - New Tires - 285/75R16 If The 315s Are Too Big?
Dec 17, 2015
I have an 05 Excursion Eddie Bower. Ordering new tires tomorrow and trying to figure how large of a tire I can fit on my factory rim without any issues My Excursion is completely stock!Going with the BFGoodrich All terrain K02's. I was going to go with 315/75R16's. Is that too big? Will I have rubbing issues? Will that fit the stock rim without any issues? Or how about 285/75R16's if the 315's are too big?
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How much air pressure should you run on 305/70/16 tires?
I had tires rotated and the shop had them at 35psi. That was just too low and didn't drive well. I have about 42psi right now and they drive better.
I've heard everything from 35-50psi.
What do you run?
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" Michelin LTX A/T 2 Load range E tires that are size 265/75/16"
I don't haul much and I don't tow.
How much in the front tires and how much in the rear?
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Had the tires balanced, still shakes. Had them balanced and tires rotated on the wheels for optimum placement. Still shakes, no visible bubbles for tread seperation. What to check next?
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What is the cause of my New Tires are starting to Cup and or Feather pretty bad. Is this a aligment issue? Camber? I am just not sure because it feels like the truck drives Normal...
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My Excursion only has 74000 miles and I just replaced the original shocks with Monroe Reflex and combined with my Goodyear Silent Armor tires was running beautifully. Then after a "deal" from Ford, I replaced the Goodyears with LTX-MS2's and had the alignment checked since my Goodyears did have a little cupping after 45000 miles. They also checked all the front end components and said that everything was in good shape! Upon driving it home, the Excursion steering was extremely loose and I was ready to return the tires and get new Silent Armors, but I figured that there probably was something screwy with the alignment that they just did. So I brought it back, test drove it with the tech at 75 mph and he decided he needed to recheck the alignment. After the realignment, it drove beautifully, but after reading the posts on various forums regarding the proper toe-in on the front, I am questioning whether the alignment is set properly?
After the 1st alignment (in degrees):
LF Camber .3; Caster 3.0; Toe .01
RF Camber -.2; Caster 3.2; Toe -.03
Total Toe -.03; Steer Ahead .02
LR Camber .1; Toe .12
RR Camber -.03; Toe .16
Total Toe .27; Thrust Angle -.02
After the Realignment (in degrees):
LF Camber .3; Caster 3.0; Toe -.03
RF Camber -.2; Caster 3.2; Toe -.04
Total Toe -.07; Steer Ahead 0.00
LR Camber .1; Toe .13
RR Camber -.3; Toe .18
Total Toe .31; Thrust Angle -.03
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Just put new tires on my excursion 4x4 powerstroke and I'm getting cupping just on the inside of both front tires it already has new ball joints and steering box tire rods are tight and all joints in the front. what else could cause it?
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The stock 265/75/16 tires need to be replaced and I was considering swapping 285's on the stock wheels. Will I notice an increase in fuel consumption? I realize that calculating mpg will need to be adjusted due to larger tires since the speedometer will be slightly off.
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I recently purchased a 2000 Ex Limited 2wd. It is stone stock except a slight lift. This lift gives it a pretty significant rake that I'm not a fan of. I'd like to get this thing leveled out without spending a fortune and I believe that would require the knowledge of the FTE.
The pictures below show the rake and existing suspension mods. With 285/75 16 Tires there is about 6" clearance from tire to fender on the front and 9.5" in the rear. It has a 2" spacer under what I imagine is the stock front coil spring and a 4" block below what do not appear to be stock leaf springs (guessing because the anti wrap spring is not present).
I'd like to get the front end to sit about 3" higher than it currently is to better match the rear. Lifts of any type are foreign to me. What front springs (and other components) do I need (and what brands would you recommend based on hard earned experience) to make this thing work?
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Just bought a 2001 v10 ford excursion limited with 127xxx miles. I have a few questions.
1. I can't get the front tires to rotate while parked and stepping on the brakes. I thought it was caused by the 35 inch BFG goodrich all terrian tires and a lift kit i dont know how tall but apparently i'm just a sucker. From the searches i did, i think the problem is that either the power steering or brakes doesn't have sufficient pressure to power both at the same time. what is the fix to this?
2. I found metal shaving in the rear differential. For lack of picture, the best i can describe it is that it looks like shaving off an ice block. Also, the fluid is gray and consistency of sludge. I searched and some said the shaving is normal and others said fix now. Which is it? I assume that the rear differential fluid needs to be changed.
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 with the 3.55 LS rear end. I just changed the diff fluid to Lucas 75W140 synthetic and added 4 oz of Motorcraft friction modifier. The gears looked great when I had the cover off. But now my truck only seems to want to spin one tire. It was on a ice covered road so it shouldn't be that one tire was catching more traction than the other. Could a simple oil change cause the limited slip to stop working?
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2005 Excursion 6.0 with normal bullet proof mods... towing 6000# dual axle enclosed race car trailer.
I've been towing this same package since 2008 all over the eastern half of the US and averaging right around 10MPG.... hand calculated from fill up to fill up. Sometime a bit more on a flat run to Daytona, or a bit less through the mountains... but very close to 10 MPG.
Well the factory trailer tires finally wore out and I replaced them with 8 ply Maxxis M8008 trailer tires...... highly recommended by the camper crowd.
Since then, I've been round trip Baltimore to Pittsburg, and Baltimore to Daytona (total of 2500 miles) and I've been averaging a bit over 12 MPG consistently..... again hand calculated. Same package, same highway speeds.... nothing has changed in my towing style.
Seems almost to good to be true. At this rate the tires will almost pay for themselves by the time they are worn out. Any trailer tires make such a difference ?
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I have found the OE tires are very noisy at lower speeds. They are Michelin Energy. I have Michelin Primacy MXV4 on my 2008 Avalon and they are very quiet. Is there a solution other than replacing them?
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I have a 2005 Cadillac CTS with 23k miles. It was my grandmothers car and is in excellent shape. It has had regular service and has had no mechanical problems. I have noticed recently that there is a humming noise that corresponds with the rotation of the tires. It seems to be coming from the left side and is almost unnoticeable at slow speeds but around 55-60 mph it is very noticeable. I had the wheels rotated with the last oil change and it seemed to stay the same, although the left rear tire is now on the left front. That tire loses pressure and I check it weekly. It's always a few pounds low. Could a bad tire be the cause of the noise? There is no vibration in the steering wheel and it doesn't get louder when I turn the wheel to one side of the other like a wheel bearing might.
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I recently got new Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires mounted on new OEM Toyota rims and am noticing my 2012 Avalon pulls slightly to the left. This car is the first front wheel drive car I have ever owned & am wondering if this is somewhat normal. It did not seem to do this when I had the old tires(Michelin Energy MXV4) tires with the original rims. It is not THAT bad but I DO notice it. My current mileage is 36k.
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I have a 2005 Honda Accord 4 Dr. When I accelerate starting at 60 mph to about 70 mph, it seems as though my tire is vibrating yet after 70 mph everything seems to be ok. I feel like it's coming from the back, but can't really tell. I've replaced my tires, balanced them, rotated them, balanced them again, even had my front axle replaced because the mechanic thought the axle was the problem. Yet my issue still persists.
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2011 Limited. 44867 miles.
Today when I rotated all five Turanza tires (RF > SP, RR > RF, SP > RR, swap L, as per the manual), I noticed the left tires (only) have exaggerated outer edge wear. All three from the right have even wear.
Wifey says it's because I weigh 400 lbs (181kg) and am generally driving alone. When I'm not alone, my passengers are all normal weight. This would be the first time in my life my weight cause uneven wear to tires.
By the way, these tires are LOUD on certain road surfaces.
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My steering wheel on my 2012 Avalon Limited began shaking above 65 mph immediately after the tires were rotated for the first time. The balance was checked, and two new tires were installed. That did not fix the problem. The car also seems to pull to the right. Wondering if the problem are the tires, or an alignment issue.
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The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
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Why am I getting at best 14 mpg. I drive 80% highway. I have 05 6.0 powerstroke 4x4. 285/75r16 non lifted 65psi. I never get over 68 mph. I see a lot of post and people are getting 17. I ran diesel keen silver through last tank still didn't do anything. My ficm puts out 48.5 constant. My delta between oil temp never gets over 5 degrees. Would stiction cause lower mpg? When first crank it rump rumps a couple times and lines out. I ordered Rev x should be here in next few days. How do I tell what flash for ficm. I read that if it has latest flash it could get bad mileage. I would like to get at least 16mpg.
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I have a 05 EB Excursion 6.0L and I am on my third alternator. Just bought the third and I have 113K miles on the Excursion. No extra electronic just a set of backup lights. What is making the alternators go out. The second on lasted about 4 years and the first one 5 years. I have added extra wire from the alternator to the batteries.
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