Ford Excursion :: 2005 - High Idle Wiring?
Nov 9, 2012
I have a 2005 6.0L Excursion. I'd like to do the high idle mod. From looking in the tech folder there are two options.. Option #1 being for 2003-2004 trucks and Option #2 being for 2005+ trucks. The assumption for Option #2 is that there is wiring from the factory for the upfitter switches. My engine build is a 2004 and I could not find any evidence of the orange upfitter wires so I proceeded with Option #1.
I find wire 294 (white/light blue strip) with no problem.. What I can't seem to find is wire 322 (light blue/yellow strip). I can find the 4 dummy (extra) wires to the engine compartment (Red, White, Blue, Black solids) yet I only find 3 blunt cut wires capped with tape... The colors on those are white/orange strip, light green/white strip and yellow/white strip - no sign of the light blue/yellow strip wire.
Is there something unique about the 2005 Excursions?
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Bought a Powermaster 250amp alternator for my '05 V10. Says I need to upgrade my power and ground wires to 4 gauge with fuse on power cable. I don't really run too many accessories other than HID heads and fogs and 2 DVD screens for the boys.
Do do I really need to upgrade my wiring? Can't imagine I'm pulling much more amperage than stock (130amp on my truck).
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This is on my 05. I assume its for fog lights. Is that correct? If so, where is the fog light switch? I don't have one near my headlight switch. Is this one of those things where everyone gets the harness, but the option is only on the switch if equipped?
Here is the harness....
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OK, I just got done replacing the alternator on the wife's 05 escape 3.0 V6, after it started on fire. The 3 wire plug was melted onto the alternator, so I had to replace the pigtail. I'm 99.9% sure that I got the wires in the right place. But now, after putting it all back together, it idles sporadically, when I drive it seems almost like it's trying to start out in 2nd gear, and shifts oddly. And there are no dash lights or gauges. Headlights work fine. And everything worked normally before I took it apart.
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I purchased a 2000 4X4 V10 with 63,000 miles. It sat with very little movement for 12 years or so. I have been driving it for a few months and it now has 73,000 on it.
To my question. I have an high idle after start up. After the engine starts the idle goes up to 2K but comes back down to normal(1K or so). It takes a second or to 2 for the idle to drop. This seems strange to me. Is this normal? I've done some searching and found plenty on high idles but none seem to fit this condition.
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I have a 2000 X V10 and am having an intermittent high idle condition. I have searched the forums and found some useful info but nothing that addresses this issue. Here's what I've done. New IAC, found PCV valve hose leaking-replaced also new valve, found another vacuum leak-repaired, tested TPS and that was fine according to the specs I found. So here's my problem-upon starting engine occasionally "stumbles" then roars to life idles 8-1100rpm. Drives well till stopping at an intersection and idles 1100-1200 rpm.(lots of brake) Can pull into parking spot place in park and will idle up 1500-1800 rpm and then only drop to 1200 or so. I have checked everything I know. ALL these idle conditions are INTERMITTENT. (and yes I did check for codes "0" ) There is no loss of power.
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Not really sure if the V-10 is supposed to be this way or not. I've had quite a few of the 4.6 and 5.4, both the 2v and 3v variant. Never had them do it.
Basically, my V-10 doesn't idle down easily. I can do a neutral rev and it will hang out from 1,000 to 1,500 rpm for maybe 2-3 seconds, then drop to normal idle revs.
While in gear and slowing to a stop, it feels like the motor is fighting the brakes and I have to press harder to stop. It also comes off the transmission when going 35-40 mph and letting off the gas. Causes a weird lurch if I have to get back on the gas.
Not dangerous or anything of that sort, but very very annoying. And I feel it's costing me some MPG's since I drive 99% city and have lots of stops. Probably 1-2 MPG at max. Back in my 2v Mustang days I remember some of the guys were modifying the 4.6 2v IAC because of similar complaints. I'm trying to dig up that mod, but it's been a few years.
I plan on cleaning the IAC this week when I get the time
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I'm trying to find out what I need to check or replace to get my 2000 Excursion to idle at normal rpm's in park and neutral.
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I have a 2005 Camry XLE v6 that has been draining down the battery lately. I checked the idle current draw and found its about 320mA. What the general range should be? I took the reading with all doors closed (no lights), engine off and nothing switched on except the systems that require constant power.
The car has an aftermarket radio (Pioneer AVIC D1) installed (which has a line tied to the constant power source). At this setting, I suppose only the clock and the security system should be ON, but shouldn't those systems draw very little power? ... I looked through the Hayne's manual but couldn't find anything about idle current draw.
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The car will start up fine, run for 10 - 20 min and stall. I will try and restart it but i takes atleast 7 or 8 sec of the car just turning over before it slowly fires up. Which results in a high idle 1200-1400 rpm and the car stalling another 5 min later.
Ive fixed my o2 sensor the wire was cut, replaced the fuel filter, and got a eurojet lower pcv hose for the vacuum leak i found.
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Recently my 2005 scion tc CEL light came on and I diagnosed p0456. At the same time when I turn the car on in the morning it idles at 2k RPM for about 3 minutes and then the idle goes down to around 900. If I park and return to the car within 2 hours the idle stays down but if I wait it goes back to 2k and I have to wait a few minutes for it to come down. My question is whether this is related to p0456. What could be wrong and how do I fix it?
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The other day I disconnected battery, then removed and cleaned the throttle body. Now cold-start idle is high, and erratic,
goes to 1,600, drops to 1,000
- back to 1600, drops, up to 1,400
-- wavers there, and then finally,
starts to taper down to steady idle of about 650-700 rpm.
Since battery disconnected, does not seem there would be a chance for TB to "un-synch" with cars computer.
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The past two times I've driven to work I've hit significant traffic. While in the middle of stop and go traffic, the engine started to idle at high RPM (3000-4000). Today the temperature gauge really started climbing and hit the red, at which point I shut the car off and waited a few minutes. No smoke, no noise and no check engine lights. As soon as the road started to clear and we were moving again, the car was fine. The engine cooled, stayed cool, and the idle returned to it's normal 1000 RPM.
The dealer was unfortunately unable to reproduce these findings, though they thought it could be a stuck thermostat.
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Early 2000 vs 2001? Looking for info on replacing wiring harness under the dashboard?
Is there enough clearance to pull the harness without removing the dashboard?
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What is this supposed to go to? Found it just flopping around under the hood while we were replacing a fuse.
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My Ranger, an '04 Edge without cargo lights. The high mount stoplight is faintly lit with the parking/headlights on. I had changed out the incandescent bulb for a LED, and went out to see how everything looked after dark. Well, the high mount had a slight glow to it, not really on, just a faint glow. This was never noticed with the regular bulb. I suspect I may have some stray voltage coming from somewhere, just enough to make the LED glow, but not enough for the normal bulb. When I switched off all the lights, it went out as well.
I tried to find a wiring diagram on line, like I've suggested to others in the past, but no luck from Autozone, or the EBSCO host I've used before. In fact the EBSCO will no longer accept "tech" as a user name or password.
So, where the problem may lie? I hate it when I can't figure out something like this!!!
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To make your fog lamps stay on when you go from low beam to high beam ,what do you have to do. I know there is a wire you cut and go to ground under your dash.
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I removed the rear radio controller from the back of the console and installed a power inverter in its place. It fit great and everything went smoothly. I should have known it was too easy... I now have no sound coming out of the rear speakers. I assume there is a way to jump the wires to allow the speakers to work, but I'd need a wiring diagram. Right now I have the controller hooked up and buried in the console, which I guess is fine. It's just annoying.
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Working on the dang ram 3500... I am needing to add a relay, however, i need to strap the coil of it with a diode to protect the frigging cluster (the new dodges aren't very mod friendly!). My question is, should I add a second diode before the relay to protect the cluster against back emf, or will the one strapped across the relay coil be enough?
Since I am sure you're curious now, the cargo light (light that lights up the bed) gets its power from the gauge cluster of all places. I need to add a relay to the cargo light circuit to drive some other lights, and I am worried the back emf from the relay coil will fry the cluster circuitry.
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My Excursion is stuck in 2wd. It worked one morning, then it didn't that same afternoon. I've checked all fuses that resemble a related fuse in the fuse box.
I've replaced the dash switch, Transfer case shift motor and ESOF/GEM module behind the glove box. I've swapped around the relays under the hood on the drivers side fender well.
I ran a hot & ground to the 2-wire plug on the x-fer case shift motor to have it move the ex back into 2wd (replacing the shift motor required me to manually put it in 4hi with a wrench).
At this point, I'm thinking it's a wiring issue? Where to go next?
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Got my 240 amp alternator in and had all new 1/0 GA battery cables with a 250amp fuse in line made to do all new lines. I started tonight and found a small line going from the alt connector down the power line to a fuseible link (fuse) all in the power line
I wanna do away with the main 4 ga alt wire but obviously I can't do anything with that line going to the plug. Can I put a connector on it and wire that into the one side of the 250amp fuse.
The only other option is to add a wire to beef up the stock line ....
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