The radius arm bracket holes and the holes on the frame line up, but there is a gap between the bottom of the frame and the bracket. I am wondering what to do at this point.
View 1 RepliesI just noticed my excursion is rusting at the bottom of all 4 door panels With the rubber seals you wouldn't notice it unless you look for it. I was thinking of using pro-15 metal prep before the por-15, how did it work?
View 14 RepliesHave problems with the 4 inch lift kit from BDS? The trackbar drop bracket does not align with the trackbar.
My drop bracket sits about 3/4 of an inch towards the back, compared to the original location of the drop bracket.
Bought a 2013 FX4 two weeks ago to replace my 94 F150 and got to enjoy it for a whole 10 days before I got rear ended at a stop light. The car hit me doing between 30-40, fast enough to make her airbags go off, and it was hard enought to force the bed to hit the cab. Unfortunately, the damage is more than cosmetic body work. The bottom of the bed is pushed up under the bedliner and the frame is bent in front of where the leaf spring connects. My concern is that the adjuster will want to "fix" the frame and I will be stuck with a lifetime of alignment issues, suspension issues, etc. I know the rear of the frame is not as much an issue as if the front was bent, but I don't know how they could fix it without cutting it and welding in a new piece, and how can I know that the frame is true?
View 14 RepliesI need a new upper driver side door seal and the plastic driver side fog light bracket but can find part numbers for my 2005 Ex.
View 3 RepliesI've never used a rust converter, so I have no experience and wanted to hear from those who have. I've got some light rust on the frame rails and the hitch receiver. What product would you recommend, or do these products work well enough to consider? According to all of the websites, they all work miracles...
View 3 RepliesJust got bad news hours ago...frame not safe ?
View 2 Replies I will be repairing the rust at the bottom edges of my doors. I work at a body shop and we've done 2 X's in the last 2 weeks! one was an 02 and was really bad. the owner wanted 4 new doors and rust repaired at the R/R lower C-pillar. the one today was an 04or 05? and just started to pop. After the first I looked at my doors and my L/R is the worst with just starting to flake paint. The others are just starting to pop.
I'll take some pics of what I'm doing which will be the same we did at the shop. In the years I've been on this site I've never seen mention of this! I know it`s more common in the midwest and east so I'm sure there are more than just a few! In as you don't know what I'm talking about.....look under the rubber weather strip (flap) on the lower part of the doors. the rust starts at the seem where the door frame and skin attach!
I replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Tundra, 60K miles. Dealership just told me the frame is rusted out, with actual holes in frame under driver side. Said car was unsafe to drive or have on road. Called Toyota and opened case but said I was out of warranty and they were not accountable.
View 19 RepliesMy front carrier is leaking at the bottom of the Ring and Pinion Cover. I am going to pull the cover and replace the gasket. I am also a believer in Amsoil full synthetics, should I use the Severe Gear 75W-90, Severe Gear 75W-110 or the Severe Gear 75W-140. How many ounces does it take. I presume to fill until the bottom of the fill hole? What are the torque specifications for the bolts?
View 14 RepliesJust got it a couple weeks ago from auction. 2005 CCSB Lariat FX4 automatic. I have been running through the truck and replacing every filter and anything that needs replacing. Most filters on the truck were wix, everything now is back to OEM.
The truck had the infamous check TFT and flashing overdrive on the dash and wouldn't shift over 3rd gear. I changed the transmission fluid a couple weeks back when I went to sort out a TFT flashing overdrive problem. The fluid that came out of the truck was new fluid and so was the TFT sensor so my assumption is someone had tried to fix the transmission problem by changing the TFT sensor but in reality one of the harness connector pins was bent all the way over (the pin that went to the TFT of all pins). Easy fix but I still replaced the TFT and the complete harness since I was that far in the transmission before I found the broken pin. New harness, trans fluid, and TFT sensor. But I stole the truck from auction because everyone thought it had major transmission problems. easy enough fix in the drive way.
Today I went to replace the transmission filter after receiving it from diesel filters online and finding my 22mm socket. The filter change was easy and strait forward. The filter itself looked pretty bad and there was about 2-3 oz of this white gunk in the bottom of the metal canister. What it is? Is it going to be a problem?
What is the part # for this bottom for an 05' F250 supercab?
I swapped these seats into my OBS truck, but the driver's seat bottom has the typical wear/tear on it and its getting worse.
I have been searching for three days for a replacement bottom cover. I have found them for F150s and the pattern is close but not right. I cannot find them for F250s or F350s as I cannot find the proper part # for the gray DS cover.
This is the tan one: 4c3z-2562900-eaa
How can I pull this up?
I have a 2005 T-reg V8 and it has been running great. (This is my second treg had a 04 that VW baught back from me.) On Saturday I went in for my 5K service and was called to the service bay to be shown a bottom cover that was filled with oil.
The crank seal was to be sent to the dealership, however, the tool to repair it will not be here for a week. VW said my car did not loose too much oil, so there should not be any serious damage.
I have a 83 F350 with the 6.9 that I am trying to put back together. I am currently working on the A/C system and I and needing the A/C Bracket for the compressor.
I have found a few gassers and in my area but no 6.9s yet. So I was wondering if these brackets are interchangeable or not?
Why am I getting at best 14 mpg. I drive 80% highway. I have 05 6.0 powerstroke 4x4. 285/75r16 non lifted 65psi. I never get over 68 mph. I see a lot of post and people are getting 17. I ran diesel keen silver through last tank still didn't do anything. My ficm puts out 48.5 constant. My delta between oil temp never gets over 5 degrees. Would stiction cause lower mpg? When first crank it rump rumps a couple times and lines out. I ordered Rev x should be here in next few days. How do I tell what flash for ficm. I read that if it has latest flash it could get bad mileage. I would like to get at least 16mpg.
View 14 RepliesI have a 05 EB Excursion 6.0L and I am on my third alternator. Just bought the third and I have 113K miles on the Excursion. No extra electronic just a set of backup lights. What is making the alternators go out. The second on lasted about 4 years and the first one 5 years. I have added extra wire from the alternator to the batteries.
View 10 RepliesJust bought a 2005 excursion diesel and they handed me a key fob and said that all I have to do is program it.
View 8 RepliesMy 05 excursion wont go into gear some times. I have to push the brake pedal a few times to get it to go..
View 6 RepliesMy 2005 Diesel Excursion is stuck in 4 low. I have tried suggestions in manual but it did not work.
View 7 RepliesI am in the process of re-assembling a 97 F-150 that was disassembled by someone else. Looking for photos or reference as to where the bracket for the parking brake should be located and how? It looks as if the bracket connects to the front leaf spring hanger, but I'd like to see a photo of it in position as well as routing of the cable around the spring and axle. I'm concerned with re-installing it and having it in a position where it will bind or get pinched.
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