Ford Excursion :: 2005 - Drive Line Vibration - Rear Springs Sag?
Feb 5, 2013
Since I bought this '05 Ex, I have had a driveline vibration. Not bad mind you... just barely noticeable when I let off the gas going 50+ mph. I had my local Ford dealer change the Ujoints and it worked a little.
I just installed Firestone Air Bags on the rear axle. I put 20 lbs. of pressure in them and it raised the rear exactly 1 inch (I measured before and after). After the air bags were in and pressurized and the rear lifted 1 inch, I took it for a drive. WOW! The driveline vibration is completely gone. Smooth as glass.
Question that I need opinions on from those who have more experience with an Ex than I do: Did my rear springs sag enough to cause a driveline vibration? And did the lifting of 1 inch put it BACK to stock height so that the driveline is now correct?
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Here's a pic of rear springs off a 4X2 Ex.
They look the same to me with the exception of not having the bottom overload spring with the rubber snubber on it for the axle wrap.
I need a pair of stock rear springs so I can pull the bottom two leaves off in order to do a modded B-code, and these are available for me to use if they will work.
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I'm going to be installing a 4" lift on my truck and was wondering what the pros and cons are using springs or blocks. I have the option of going with either the pro comp 22210/22415 springs or 22210 with a 5" block. With the block I'd be saving around $200 but I guess my main concern is ride quality. Dont know if the stock rear springs have issues like the front do. I'm probably going to go all spring but it would be nice to save a few bucks.
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My Ex has a ProComp 6" lift that was installed in 2004 (it's an 03) and it seems that the rear springs are worn out and sagging. I'm assuming the lift used the stock springs and blocks. I haven't measured but I'd say the rear is 1" - 2"s lower in the back. Question is should I replace the springs with stock ones? Maybe get springs that'll give me some lift and remove the blocks? Airbag it?
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So my Ex squeaks at low speeds. If I turn the wheel slightly it seems to make it worse. The other day I had the rear end on the ice. Accelerated and spun the tired. I could hear a squeak squeak squeak. I lifted the rear of the truck and put it in drive. No squeak. Every thing sounds fine. I put it in N and spun the drive shaft. Maybe some noise at the transfer case? Could that bearing leaving the transfer case cause it? That an easy fix? Or ?? I also note some chatter occasionally from the rear end. I did just change the fluid. But may need to do it again. The squeak is the more annoying problem at the moment.
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Finally pulling the trigger on some springs so I can get this work done, Tousely prices were great on the W's compared to local dealers. Here are some questions.
1. I am planning to go with the W springs up front.
2. Can I still use the B for the rear mod, or do I need C's to keep it level? (Or F's)
3. Do I need blocks in the rear, or just the springs on the axle?
4. Do I need the 2" shackle up front?
5. I have dual Fox shocks that came with the ex when I bought it. The prior owner said they ran a little rough. Are they able to be re-valved, or is it cheaper to go with Bilstein?
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My rearmost drive shaft u-joint is bad and has slop. I've been having vibration for about 7-8 months, but just started hearing a noise within the past week, especially when taking off with a load on the drive line (uphill or heavy acceleration). The vibration has not gotten worse, just that the noise has just begun to show itself.
I have one u-joint which is OE and has 275K miles on it, and it seems to be OK at the moment. The other two (including the rearmost unit) both have about 100K miles, as does the center support bearing.
Just because I don't want to worry about anything, I'm going to replace all three u-joints with Moog Super Strength units, and will also replace the Center Bearing with a new Spicer unit... just because I can and don't want to be pecked to death with multiple failures in the same drive line. I ordered the Moog joints because the only Spicer joints I could find were for the 4wd configuration.
That's the context... here's my question... The parts are on order and won't get here for several days. I've been driving the truck like it is at about 1500 miles monthly. Do I continue to drive the truck for another week before getting the joints and bearing installed? I know it's a guess... just looking for more perspective.
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Wondering what could cause a driveline vibration after a new clutch was put in at 136,000 by a repair shop.. The vibration was not there before, could the halfshafts or the motor mounts ,engine brackets if not installed exactly as before cause this, am bringing back to shop to get this corrected.
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I have a strange vibration that radiates from, i think, the drive line or transmission.
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I am not sure if it is the high pressure or low pressure line. The line had rubbed on the frame and it wore a hole in the line. I want to get this fixed and wondered any remedies or if I need to replace the whole line. Someone said I could take it to a radiator shop and they could repair the line???
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Routine maintenance gone wrong.
Installing rear brake line and failed to put on the rear washer and stripped out the bolt hole mostly. Will still unscrew and screw back in but not enough to stop a slow drip. Is there an easy repair or time for a new caliper? Thread tape is not brake fluid resistent.
If no repair, what brand should I go with? Are they all similar or MC better? Can get Fenco for $50 and MC for $100. A1 Cardone and ACD for about $75.
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So I finally got my truck running on sunday and I come home after work yesterday and my driveway is covered in coolant. the line that goes to the rear had split in the middle and also in the rear?!? Where to get a replacement. I was thinking about just cutting out the messed up section and hose clamping some heater hose in its place?
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I have a 2003 Ex with the 7.3. There is a leak in the rear coolant line just in front of the rear right tire. Is there any way to bypass the rear heater under the hood?
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Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
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My X has had a vibration in the drive train since I bought it. I have been through 3 sets of tires and a new rear end with no significant change.
I recently replaced the u-joints, and the vibration changed. Instead of being pronounced upon deceleration, the vibration was somewhat lessened, and only occurred around 55 mph when the truck was neither accelerating or decelerating; when the throttle and speed were at an equilibrium. It was reduced further when I reduced the air pressure in the tires. It is reduced, but is still there.
I would like to get this fixed before my spring break trip.
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Before I take my dads truck to the mechanic. He noticed a "noise" when running highway speeds, which does not occur often for his truck..a beautiful 2005 Eddie Bauer Explorer with the 5.0 V8. I need this checked as I drag a boat to the Fl Keys from NJ in 3 weeks and the truck needs to be 100%. He just replaced the tires as his mechanic told him it was tire whine, which you hear and dont feel. The wheel bearings have been replaced in the last 2 years and they just did ball joints. I drove it up the highway tonight and felt it right at 62 mph..go faster it got more pronounced and you could feel it in the drivers seat...not vibration on the steering wheel..above 85 and it kind of smoothed out, drop below 62 and it goes away..makes no difference if you are in the gas or not..feels like something spinning out of balance....I ran it for 30 minutes at 75 and then pulled into a Lowes parking lot and drove one set of tires up onto a curb so I could fit under the truck..I started at the back and touched everything in the drivetrain for see if anything was hot..the rear differential was warm, the ujoints were not, the transfer case was warm as was the front differential, but none of the u joints or cv joints were warm... 2005 Explorer 100,000k miles...
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On my 2003 Excursion 7.3L, I notticed I'm leaking what I think is coolant from the passenger side rear hard line by the front spring hanger. I haven't pealed the plastic loom away yet, but I did see the loom is chaffed near the spring hanger. What lines are the ones that carry coolant, and can I just cut the hard lines and replace with a section of rubber hose?
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2005 X Limited 4x4 with 80,000 miles and I'm pretty sure my non serviceable bearing units are bad. Vibration and growling at 50 thru 70 mph. Only 80,000 on OEM seems pretty low. Front bearing assemblies....
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I have a vibration coming from the rear. I put new tires on yesterday. Still it vibrates. I'm on the verge of doing a complete driveshaft overhaul very soon. The u_joints look a little worn but I can't feel any slop. I have watched a few videos on the slip yoke. How do you fix the slip yoke.
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So I have 3 rear u joints and a vibration. I swear I read some where that there was a change to the rear shaft to aid in vibrations. So if that's the case could someone point me in the right thread or tell me what one to use. I have access to both....
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I need to identify the part numbers for the u joints in the rear drive shaft. The guys at the auto parts store kept telling me I only need two until I showed them that there are clearly three. I just want make sure that I get the correct parts before purchase.
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