I have my excursion sitting in a parking lot near my house. The ex will not start, it turns over but not starting? I hooked up my SCT tuner to read the codes, and it is pulling nothing. The Check engine, check gauges and battery light is on. Would a different scanner read the codes?
View 13 RepliesComing home from spring break towing the TT, the Check Engine light illuminates. Seems to be sputtering at idle, but otherwise OK, so we continued home.
Scanner lists the P0171 and P0174 codes. Ok, where to begin? based on internet info, started by cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body. When I pulled apart the intake, noticed that the grommet which feeds the MAF in the air intake had become separated letting air bypass the MAF. Hence the reason for the codes.
If you get these codes, check the grommet for the wires feeding the MAF in the air intake to make sure it hasn't become separated from the intake. No more codes.
The X has been running great, well good enough, lately with no issues. I left work the other morning, and apparently the X didn't want to wake up that early. As soon as I started it up, the check engine light came on and it was running like crap. Had a bad hesitation all the way home. It feels like it is misfiring, but only under load. It doesn't do it if I brake torque it or Rev it up. Only while driving.
The codes I am getting are in the P035x family (typed that way for future searches). P0353 and P0358 are the codes I am getting (along with 4x4 codes for the vacuum solenoid...but that's the solution to other problems not relevant to this!). Being codes for the primary circuit, I popped the hood and checked out the connectors. Both connectors are fine, and tightly connected. I did notice however that cylinders 3 and 8 have other than OEM coil packs on them. These are the only 2 cylinders with those coil packs (they are white and the other 8 cylinders have black coils).
I don't want to just throw parts at it, and I'm not getting a hard miss fire code, just the 2 above. I might try to swap the coils with other cylinders tonight and see if the codes move to those cylinders. It has run like this a few times, but never set a code, and turning it off and back on has "fixed"this in the past.
And just for complete disclosure, while looking for where I saved a password, I found notes from August last year where I pulled codes, and these two codes were present then, with a cylinder 7 hard miss fire code. I replaced the c7 coil with motorcraft cleared the codes, and P0353 and P0358 went away and I haven't seen them since. The plugs are brand new and only have about 1000 miles on them (changed them in September when repairing the misfire and I don't drive it much).
I have an 05 F-150 Lariat 5.4 and it has been going haywire today. While driving if I hit a hard bump the power will cut off (radio, a/c) and even sometimes the truck. Check engine light came on and I pulled codes P2160 & P0506. Also, when it completely cuts off and I start it back up it says "engine in failsafe mode".
View 1 RepliesEvery year at this time I get check engine code about either the temp. sensor or the thermostat. I replace the temp. sensor every year, and last year I replaced both the temp. sensor and the thermostat and flushed the cooling system and replaced the coolant. but not this year, no I'm not doing it! For there has to be some other reason other than the temp sensor failing each year! 2005 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8 V6....
View 6 RepliesWeekend trip in the 09 Avalon and after stopping for fuel i end up with a check engine light and two codes P0014 and P0015, camshaft over advance bank 1. Cleared the codes but came back hours later. What am i looking at to correct this problem?
View 14 RepliesI just purchased a 2005 elantra with 133k on it and she runs fine other than a slight erratic idle. And by slight I mean it will jump about 50-100 rpm idling and every blue moon it will jump up to 250 rpm sitting there. After idling for a while my CEL came on with the following codes.
P0507 idle air control rpm high
P0506 idle air control rpm low
P0170 fuel trim malfunction bank 1
P0121 throttle position sensor
What could be causing this? I took the iac off and cleaned it with maf cleaner but it didn't work.
I have an 05 diesel. I have noticed the last 3 days I needed to crank it slightly longer to start it and it takes a second before ideling normally. It usually fires right up and jumps to life. Today i drive about 45 minutes. Stoped for about 30 minutes and shortly after I started it back up the check engine light came on. Will the Ex flash you the codes or do you have to have a reader? Thought I would try Autozone tomorrow but not sure if they read deisel codes or not. I was suspecting maybe glow plugs but who knows at this point. It seems to be running fine and I checked all fluids.
View 13 RepliesCar dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
View 1 RepliesWhen I started the car the check engine light came on. Since there had been a lot of rain recently, I thought that perhaps it was an electrical malfunction since the performance of the car did not seem to be affected. I was only a few miles from home and going at a constant speed on the highway. When I slowed down to get off at my exit I noticed that the car wasn't getting up to gear with the same power as it had been. By the time I had to slow down for five or six stop signs, the car was having a lot of trouble getting up to speed, and at the stop sign before my drive way, it stalled and wouldn't start (although it always sounds like it's just about to turn over). The mechanic is suggesting an engine flush and tune up, but both seem a little excessive, especially the engine flush.
2005 Hyundai Sonata (manual transmission)....
I have a 2005 jeep liberty 3.7L with 60,000 miles on it. The engine light when on 2 weeks ago and gave a p300 code. the dealership replaced coil and plugs, I believe. Then would start rough when cold, the engine light would blink for about 10 seconds then remain on. the car runs just fine except when cold....first minute of starting it. they checked for head gasket problem, and cant seem to find the problem. They told me that this could just be something that happens. I don't believe that. I have no loss of power, no hesitation. Runs fine 99% of the time
View 19 RepliesThis issue has only happened twice to me.
I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
My 2005 Prius was working quite fine until few days ago when the dash lit up with ABS, Check Engine, red triangle, ((!)), and the red car symbol on MFD. Additionally, the hybrid battery fan now comes on once in a while. Mileage on car is 164K; changed the 12v and hybrid batteries at about 153K. Running it through codes scanners, the following codes were read off it:
* B1421 (Solar Circuit malfunction, passenger side. Also, AC malfunction [although on the car, the AC still seems to work fine])
* P3000 (Hybrid control fault, and cruise control error)
*C2318 (Low voltage error-power supply malfunction)
I have checked 12V status using the diagnostic mode this morning and found it to be 12.0V (although 2 days ago when I checked it was 11.8V.)
I have not used the car since as I wouldn't want it park up by the roadside. I'm scarred to think its the hybrid battery again... For now, the car still moves well. What should I check to confirm real cause(s) of all these?
My 1998 Explorer with 120,000 mile on it. The check light just came on. I have had several auto part stores plug in the scan tool and there were no error codes. I'm looking for the reset button location. I am also wondering should there be something missed by the scan tools, will the light activate should there be a real problem.
View 9 RepliesSo I have been having some troubles with my 2003 F150 4.6L ... Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors??? I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
Ive got a question for all you code readers out there. My dreaded check engine light has been on for about a month. I bought a code reader recently and checked it out. Two codes come up; PO401 and PO446. What these mean. My book says "Exhaust Gas Recirc. Flow Insufficient Detected" and " Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction". Which sensors, location on vehicle, etc..... this is a 97 5.4L Expedition.
View 9 RepliesI have 2007 explorer 4.0 4x4. Check engine light and wrench symbol on with codes po743 po750 po755 po po765 po966 po966 po970. Feels like it is now stuck in 3rd gear.
View 2 RepliesI just got a new 2006 E-350 van about 4 months a go (my previous 2004 got scraped - found out the fuel line leaving the secondary filter into the engine with clogged with bits of paper (wtf?)... after I decided salvaged it for parts for my new van...).
New van drives beautifully in the last 4 months without problem, but shut down on me on the highway yesterday. No strange noise or anything when it went out. I managed to coast safely to the side of the highway. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to start the truck again and had it towed home. It cranks, but doesn't start.
I have a scan gauge ii this time and it shows the following:
KOEO:
FICM ~48.5V
ICP 0
IPR 14.8%
Sync 0
Cranking:
FICM ~48.5V
ICP ~8PSI
IPR 84.7%
Sync 1
I still have a P0299 and P2262 check engine code from 2 days previous to the above, but this doesn't seem to be related to the no-start conditioning (both turbo related)
So, pretty much, I'm looking at a very low ICP. Some research indicates this is is due to a bad HPOP, bad STC fitting, or a massive leak. Given the really low ICP, can I rule out the STC fitting and leak? Looks like only the LPOP is providing pressure. Is there anyway to tell if the HPOP is dead or not once I remove it?
Anything I should shot-gun replace first? I have a bunch of salvaged parts from my old van in my garage, which doesn't include the HPOP unfortunately.
Alright i have a 05 1.8t GLI I just installed a 42 draft designs full 3inch turboback, and a eurojet turbo inlet hose, after I put the stuff on my check engine light came on which I thought was gonna happen and is normal but my traction control light came on as well, the cars running better then ever and pulling harder then ever, but when i hooked it up to the computer I'm throwing 18 codes? Ive triple check to make sure everythings tight and in the right spot? What could be wrong?
View 5 Replies1999 ranger 3.0. Check engine light popped up showing P1000 and P0401 codes. I think the p1000 is a system readiness test. Not sure why that came up and the 401 is exhaust gas problem. I put on a new autozone DPFE a few months ago..
View 5 RepliesA couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light. Pulling the codes I saw that it was a p0304 and sometimes a p0316. The first time this happened I check the spark plug cables and one was loose (cycylinder 4). Then last week my fuel pump died. since then I have gotten the two codes on a somewhat continous basis. I replaced the plugs (needed to anyway) and the problem did not go away.
The odd thing is that the check engine light does not come on at idle. IT only comes on after the motor is at a higher rev. The replaced plugs looked pretty normal, but the cylinder 4 plug had some carbon deposits. I am currently running injector cleaner in the gas. I may go ahead and replace the plug wires since the current ones are high mileage and it is not an expensive fix.