I have a 05 EB Excursion 6.0L and I am on my third alternator. Just bought the third and I have 113K miles on the Excursion. No extra electronic just a set of backup lights. What is making the alternators go out. The second on lasted about 4 years and the first one 5 years. I have added extra wire from the alternator to the batteries.
View 10 RepliesYup, just joined the dead alternator club. Lost all charging capability, everything went dead on my way home in snow on Saturday. Most likely going to replace my failed stock alternator with a 185 or 270 depending on price. Where can one find a supplier that has them in stock at a good price
View 14 RepliesYesterday my 2002 Ford Focus SE Zetec wagon (140k) died at a stoplight. Before that, the radio would turn off and on like it was possessed. The last five miles before it conked out, the fuel gauge and speedometer dropped to zero (ie same as with key-out). Waited two hours and was able to drive it two blocks home but the same symptoms w/instruments occurred. Battery measured 12.0v @ home. The alternator is the first suspect but what else should get replaced? Any guesses as for cost? DIY or take it to a shop?
View 17 RepliesIn January, I had the alternator replaced on my 2004 Focus after it died in the middle of the street. It's been fine since then, but yesterday I was driving it and it suddenly seemed to lose power - the dashboard battery light came on, there was the dinging noise that indicates that a seatbelt is unbuckled or the headlights have been left on when you open the door, and the fuel needle dropped to empty (even though the tank was 3/4 full.) Then everything kicked back on. Then it happened again. This cycle repeated three or four times. I parked the car, restarted it, and after that it was okay. BUT - I have two long trips coming up, to remote areas of the Rockies, and I want to make sure it's okay before setting off on these journeys.
It seemed like the alternator was bad, or maybe there was a loose connection, but I took it to the mechanic and he couldn't detect anything wrong. The alternator is under warranty, so he's suggesting that I just replace it, but also wants to run "other tests" to see what's going on.
Of possible relevance: it's been pretty cold out here for the past week (-5 F), I don't drive the car that much, and it was the first time I'd started it in several days. The heat and radio were both on when I started it. I left it running in neutral while I scraped off the windows, which I usually don't do. Generally I scrape off the windows first, then get in, start, and just drive. Sometimes it's sluggish in the cold when I do this, but usually it's fine.
Is it possible that this was just the cold? I'm wary of getting into a situation where the mechanic starts finding a bunch of stuff wrong with it that isn't actually wrong.
Car started losing electrical power on the way home from work last week. Dim lights, blower stopped, wipers stop, almost stalled out when getting off the interstate. Barely made it home. 30 minutes later went out to troubleshoot and it started right up. Ran for about 2 minutes and stalled out from lack of electricity. Put voltmeter to alternator and it seemed to only be putting out 8.5v. Took to store to have tested. Replaced alternator and it didn't work. Reman alternator still seemed to only be putting out 8.5v or so.
Checked fuses and cleaned battery terminal and verified good block ground and good body ground. Still having problem. 1996 Taurus. What next? Battery is exactly 2 yrs old and was putting out 11.6 when the problem first started last week. Due to cold and this existing issue, battery is only at 6.5v right now. Can jump the car, but then after removing jumper cables car dies in 30 seconds. Should I have the battery tested? What else could/should I be looking at?
I was messing with the battery in my 200 Ford Ranger the other day and must of arc something. I know this because after plugging my battery back up my radio fuse was blown and my alternator was killed. I replaces the radio fuse, that works now, and got a new remanufacted alternator (tested mine at Advance it was dead). I installed it and nothing changed. The battery still wasn't charging. I know the battery is good because I tested it at Advance Auto. I took the alternator back and the shop replaced it with another remanufacted one. Same thing, installed it and the battery doesn't charge.
This time I took the alt back off and had it tested at Advance. The alt was dead. So I don't know if the part store gave me TWO bad alternators or if my truck is killing them. I find it hard to believe it could kill them immediately but my automotive knowledge is not that vast. I took the second (third counting my original) dead alternator back and they gave me a brand new one no extra charge. So I don't want to put a brand new alt in my truck and it kill this one too because I doubt they will give me a fourth one. What is going on? Could it just be as simple as I got two bad eggs?
Why am I getting at best 14 mpg. I drive 80% highway. I have 05 6.0 powerstroke 4x4. 285/75r16 non lifted 65psi. I never get over 68 mph. I see a lot of post and people are getting 17. I ran diesel keen silver through last tank still didn't do anything. My ficm puts out 48.5 constant. My delta between oil temp never gets over 5 degrees. Would stiction cause lower mpg? When first crank it rump rumps a couple times and lines out. I ordered Rev x should be here in next few days. How do I tell what flash for ficm. I read that if it has latest flash it could get bad mileage. I would like to get at least 16mpg.
View 14 RepliesThis problem has been happening on and off to my a car for about a year. When I start my car I'll begin to hear this screeching sound coming from under the hood. When I go to drive it the sound get's worse, especially with acceleration. However, after I make a turn or hit the "sweet spot" it goes away. This usually happens at night, which makes me think it's some sort of water/condensation building up on the serpentine belts which are rubbing together creating friction of some kind. Today however was unusual because as I parked my car at school I accidentally left the head lamps on and the battery died. Got someone to jump start me and right as I started the engine...that horrible screeching sound started. I am guessing this is because the alternator had to work harder to get power to the battery? I am not sure. Wondering what I can do to fix this problem.
View 5 RepliesI have a 99 volkswagon passat. I've replaced the alternator once a month for the last three months. Other than the belt, what could cause me to go through alternators so quickly. Also, this may or may not be related but as the alternator deteriorates my drivers side window which is automatic becomes more difficult to roll down. Then works perfectly after the alternator is replaced.
View 12 RepliesJust bought a 2005 excursion diesel and they handed me a key fob and said that all I have to do is program it.
View 8 RepliesMy 05 excursion wont go into gear some times. I have to push the brake pedal a few times to get it to go..
View 6 RepliesMy 2005 Diesel Excursion is stuck in 4 low. I have tried suggestions in manual but it did not work.
View 7 RepliesI have a 98 Subaru Legacy wagon and have replaced alternator FIVE times in last 7 months or so -- originally my mechanic (who has been awesome & doing all the replacements for free) thought the parts were defective, but last one came from a different supplier and only a month or so after installing, my car just died at a light this morning. Battery not drained, and mechanic was able to start it after had it towed there. What can it be?
FYI, bought the car used two years ago, so don't know whole history, but was fine for first year or so. The first time I lost power, I think it really was the alternator (and snapped belt), so I don't know if something happened or something was not reconnected correctly. (First time it broke was on a Saturday and my regular mechanic was closed to went to someone not very good -- and if this is useful info beyond just complaining, when this guy put in the new alternator, he didn't connect it to the battery, so I stalled out within hours of the "repair.")
My mechanic is stumped and I am at a loss -- don't want to sink a bunch of money in if this is the beginning of the end of the car (mileage is just over 100k, though, so seems to young to die), but need a bit more reliability.
When I purchased my 2005 Limited 6.0l I just assumed it had the factory gears in it which are 3.73s but I noticed the other day that my speedo is pretty much bang on with the 35" tires. So, that got me to thinking maybe they've been replaced already. It runs right around 2000rpm at 70mph.
View 14 RepliesHow many have had luck and results adjusting there steering box.I ajusted mine and it corrected the bad wandering proplem. I just hope this will last.
View 7 RepliesI work at a ford dealership in detroit, im looking into doing a v/b code swap, and just had some questions. my current stock excursion springs are completely shot. so i need new ones so might as well do the swap. do i need to order or get anything other than the v code springs, and the b code springs, new u-bolts, and modify the b code springs? i do not need shackles or anything to have the ex sit level when im done..? just making sure before i get involved. have viewed many topics on here about it and just want a definitive answer. 2005 excursion, v10. i actually wanted to go with the X's in front, but i dont know how to make those level in back.
View 14 RepliesI recently purchased a 2005 Ex 6.8L V10 and I have been struggling to figure out the Cylinder 4 Misfire for close to 3 months. First thing I did was replace all 10 spark plugs with Motocraft plugs. Check engine stayed away for a few weeks... then came back. I next replaced just the #4 coli with a DG508 Motocraft coli I picked up at O'Reilly's. Again the check engine light stayed away for a few weeks.
Finally, I cleaned out #1-4 fuel injectors and swapped positions of #1 and #4. This time the check engine light stayed away for over a month. However, it just came back today, and again, it is #4. I am now at a loss for what to do. I assume it is not the fuel injector since I swapped the #1 and #4 injectors. If I have new plugs and a new coil pack, then what am i missing?
I have a 2005 Excursion, V10, 6.8 2WD w/ 177k. About 3 months ago, I started the engine and both headlights (low beams) did not turn on (it was dark out/automatic lights) The running lights were all running. Turned the switch on/off and no luck, however the brights (high beams and flash to pass) work while this is going on. About 30 seconds later, the low beams turn back on by themselves. Fast forward 3 months, the low beams will turn off for anywhere from 1 second to 30 seconds and turn back on. This happens while sitting in driveway, driving, sitting at a light etc. No changes other then an oil change. Happens when switch set to automatic and "on" as well. Brights always work, running lights etc, just the low beams turn on and off.
View 5 Replies2005 X Limited 4x4 with 80,000 miles and I'm pretty sure my non serviceable bearing units are bad. Vibration and growling at 50 thru 70 mph. Only 80,000 on OEM seems pretty low. Front bearing assemblies....
View 4 RepliesI can buy front and back for 200. Specifically wondering about rear bumper.
View 4 RepliesThe middle a/c is not working and to clarify my front top display is out (I took down the display and the little chips appear to need to be re-seated or soldered) so I don't know if that is playing into the whole scheme.
Right now the front a/c works, rear back works on floor, but the middle does not blow at all. I have read several posts the mention a TMX(not sure if that is it)? also mention are flapper doors (?) directional doors(?).
Had the EGR delete done (and because mine is an 05 my engine light stays on - yeah) and the SCT computer and oil cooler are next. Also replaced all the injectors and performance has greatly improved.