Ford Excursion :: 2004 V10 Won't Start / No Crank At All
Sep 20, 2014
Tried starting the Ex for the first time in two weeks and it won't start -- no starting problems before. Battery is 4 months old and fully charged. When I try to start it electrical power is there (gauges act normal) but no crank at all -- motor does not turn over. Its acting like a switch or some electrical connection is bad. I tried moving the gear selector around to make sure it is in Park....... also tried starting it in neutral but no luck.
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My Excursion didn't start the other day. It would barely crank. A new Interstate battery was installed about a year ago.
I jumped it and it fired right up. I went inside and left it running for about 20 minutes.
The next day I started it up and drove about 5 miles. I noticed whenever I was braking both the audio and lights on the radio would cut out.
It sat for about 4 hours and then wouldn't start again. I jumped it again and stood next to it while it was warming up.
I noticed the interior lights got dim, the radio cut out again, and then the entire gauge cluster went crazy. The needles were jumping around and would then shut off, then jump around again. Whenever I increased the RPMs the problems would stop.
I got home and it sat for about an hour. I tried to start it again and it would barely crank.
I'm trying to avoid a trip to the parts store to have the alternator tested since I'll have to jump it again... and worse, I could get stuck on the side of the road if it completely dies.
I'm guessing the alternator is shot. Could it be anything else?
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Still haven't found out the problem with excursion quitting it has stopped for good this time cranks but wont start, fuel pump and filter have been replaced shop said it was going bad, sent to dealer twice no fix.
2000, XLT, V10, 150k, 4X4 .....
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My 7.3 won't start after sitting for almost 2 months, the wiring for the injectors was bad, and the first package was damaged, so I had to order a new one, and wait trough Christmas before I get the new parts. The valve cover seals have now been installed, and all parts fitted. Thieves stole my batteries so I had to buy new ones there as well.
When I tried to start it, it will crank, but not start, white smoke comes out of the exhaust, and glow plugs seem to be fine. One thing I did notice is that the fuel pump under the driver side of car was making a wired noise when turning on the ignition, it was not a constant hissing sound that I used to on my other cars. I poured a small amount of condensation remover in the tank, the tank is half full, but still no start.
After trying a few times, it did sound like it would get better, but that only lasted for a second. Strange problem, I think my fuel pump is acting up, but I don't know for sure yet. The fuel pump did work when I parked it. Could it be a fuse that does it? I checked the hpop to see if there was any oil there, and it was.
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I am having a starting problem with my Excursion. It cranks but immediately quits as if the entire engine jams or locks up. I thought it was the starter so I replaced the current one with the original starter that I happened to still have from a previous starting problem. The problem persisted. What the problem could be?
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I own a 2003 Limited with the 6.8 V10. I drove the truck on Sunday and all appeared to be fine, gas gauge was setting just under a half tank. When I went to start it yesterday, it would not start. Strong crank, no start. I checked my fuse and it was fine. Fast forward to this morning, since I had kind of depleted the battery with attempting to start, I put my little jump start pack on it and gave it a whirl. Truck started fine but the gas gauge was sitting on empty. I had five gallons of gas in the garage so I added that to the tank then drove to the local gas station to add more fuel. I put another 10 gallons in the tank so it should have roughly 16 or 17 gallons in the tank. Gauge shows 3/4 tank but miles to empty is right around 175 miles which would seem right with 17 gallons in the tank. I suspect the fuel pump. I don't really want to spend $500 on the Motorcraft unit but was wondering if the group believes the Delphi or the Bosch units are quality replacement parts?
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Having some problems with my truck.... First off I bought a 2002 excursion and drove it for one day. Then I was at the car wash cleaning up the truck. Then I saw the window fogging up so I turned the car off. Now it won't start.
I had previously installed a new stereo, but had some problems, so I ran the remote wire to the fuse box, because the wire in the harness wasn't getting power.. So after a little trouble shooting we found out that the fuel pump wasn't working or was bad.
We replaced it, now it has pressure but will not start, will start with starting fluid but will not crank on its own. someone told me it may be a bad PCM? and a dealer can only replace it... I don't have tons of cash, as i bought this truck on 8/30/12 and this happened the day after i bought it.
The previous owner has paid or the fuel pump replacing but I don't think its right on my part to have him pay more money as this may be a mess up on my part with hooking the radio up to the fuse box... we have tried the fuses,realys, crank sensors...
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I have a 2000 V10 4wd. I'm going to list what happened in time order to best describe this problem. Sometimes when key is off there is a clicking from under the brake proportioning valve and sometimes a 2 second long buzz. When this happens, the A/C blower motor can run with key out also. If mistakenly left on over night it kills the battery.
I also notice that sometimes while driving my airbag light comes on randomly and sometimes it dings with doors closed. Also a few weeks ago the overdrive light starts blinking every few days. A few weeks later it wont start. No crank. So I put in new starter because mine was looking pretty crusty. Still no crank, but if I jump connection on inner fender solenoid/relay, then it starts fine.
Next day I put in a new solenoid/relay on passenger inner fender. Cranks fine and starts fine for the whole day until it randomly begins cranking by it self. With no key in. It did this several times even after re-checking everything and cycling key switch to check for bad connection there. The trans starts shifting hard, like the line pressure increased and sometimes it growls a little when it shifts into 4th
I then figured it was the Digital Trans Range Sensor which only allows start signal to go from key switch to the inner fender solenoid/relay if the trans is in park or neutral. I tested the DTRS and it seems to be working fine. It only has power at the solenoid if its in park or neutral on the tan/red wire, but the wht/pnk wire has power even when not cranking.
Being I couldn't figure out why it had power, I cut the red/lt blu wire at the ignition harness and ran a wire from the key switch side to the solenoid. Cranks and starts fine for 2 days and no mystery cranking either. Then after my wife had it all day acting fine I go to leave work that night in the rain after working a 14 hour day..... no crank. I noticed the "THEFT" light blinking but I've noticed that before and never had an issue starting.
When I came back to work in the morning it cranked and started fine 3 or 4 times then crank but no start again. I reconnected the crank wire back to factory thinking I bypassed something necessary. No change. Still acting randomly. I just ordered a VSS for the rear axle and a new DTRS for the trans. Gonna put these in today and test. Next will be a key switch since I'm having things work with key not on and I have 8volts on my grey/yell Accessory wire with key off.
I found a relay that clicks when inserted in it's socket even if key off. Its located driver side by Firewall by the Brake Booster. It has a tan/red wire(same as activation wire on inner fender solenoid but doesn't effect starting.
I have a schematic of starting system but I can't post pics because new acct here. The starter wire is red/blue at Key Switch then wht/pink after Central Junction Box, then dk blu/org after CPPJ clutch pedal position jumper(mine is auto trans. thats why is has factory jumper) but then turns to wht/pink before the DTRS then tan/red out of DTRS and at solenoid(I'm not sure it goes direct from DTRS to solenoid but color stays). As mentioned earlier, the white/pink wire has power but it shouldn't unless cranking, so its either getting it from the CJB or from where it changes from dk blu/org to wht/pink. Is there anything between the CJB and the DTRS? If nothing then why does color of wire change, and what could be giving the wire power?
Just as a note, in case it matters....my interior lights don't come on when door is opened but when it is open it dings like the key is in even when its not.
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2004 LTD 220K miles.
Starting to rust and trying to decide if its time to part with it. Runs perfect. But started having the slow crank when sits for a while. Yesterday would not start at work. Battery new. Volts test good when running. Alternator replaced before but could not tell you if it was 100K miles ago or 50K miles ago.
Anyway, started the look for drain process by putting multimeter in series in neg post. Drain is .135 A. Started the fuse pulling but every time I open door I have to wait a while for lights to go off and acc to turn off before it settles to .135A. Is there a way to trick the car into thinking doors are closed?
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Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
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2000 excursion V-10. I parked the truck, went back to start it and all my gauges blink, and the number one relay under the dash (interior light relay) begins clicking. The truck will not even crank. The relay will continue clicking (even with the key off) until you remove and replace the relay. Sometimes I will get absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I have tried jumping the battery, no change. Also tried starting it in neutral to trouble shoot the NSS, but it won't even click when in neutral. I checked battery connection, and followed the battery cables to look for a short but found nothing.
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I have a 2001 Excursion 7.3 Diesel that is having a starting issue. Have replaced the batteries, has new glow plugs, common failing cam position sensor replaced once already. It runs great when it starts, no codes. It will crank, but not turn over at random times. Will do this for 3 or 4 tries...charge the batteries, go back later to start and it will on the second try. Turn it off, try again..and back to cranking, but not starting. Not fun having to worry about being stranded somewhere. Absolutely desperate at this point.
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2008 F150 XLT 5.4L
1. Replaced fuse #9 for fuel pump.
2. Checked fuse #9 with check light, power to both sides is good
3. No check engine light
4. Battery is 1.5 years old. Just in case I charged for 1 hr.
5. Replaced fuel filter. Possible clog in fuel line.
6. Detached fuel line at fuel filter, turned key on and fuel came out of line. Seems like fuel pump is working.
7. Every time I can hear the fuel pump prim when I turn the key.
8. Relay#1 starter solenoid, I swapped with relay #2 and also replaced
9. FPDM replacement, I removed and it looked to be good.
10. Light checked all fuses, only fuse #5, fuse#35, and Fuse#36 did not have power. These fuses don't seem to have anything to do with starting or fuel to the engine.
11. Inertia switch check is good
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Went to leave this morning and my '05 with 135K would crank but not start. Pulled air cleaner and sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired some so I had a feeling it was fuel related. Reset the fuel cut-out with no luck. I then remember seeing the issues on the forum about the fuel pump driver module corrosion and failures. Bought a new one at the local dealer, installed it and it fired right up.
Pics below...from the side it didn't look to bad but was holed through on the bottom. I highly recommend replacing this if you live in the rust belt.
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I have a 2004 6liter. I parked one day two weeks ago and a went out last week to move it and I will only crank over. No fire No start!!!! Have new batteries. New fuel filter and have fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. I have gone over the harness, checked my fuses. I do not have a reader or scanner. Any recommendations. I want more than just a code scanner.
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So I used my 07 F150 4x4 Lariat (5.4 l) yesterday and it ran with no problems. Today, I went to start it to go to work and it would crank over strong and fast but not run. I filled up two days ago and it has been below freezing the last couple of days. What to check as I currently have my wifes explorer for work tonight.
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I was working on trailer lights and now no trailer lights and relays click but eng no crank. Batt has 12volts.
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06 5.4 screw. This truck sits in the garage all week long as I drive a work van daily. When I take the truck out on the weekends it starts up normally at the house and when I stop someplace for a few minutes it starts right back up but if it sits for an hour or more it will crank over for 10-15 seconds, it does always start back up. It always runs and drives fine, it is all factory as far as the motor, intake, exhaust, tuner etc. What to do with it.
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ok, so after all the work done (headgaskets, head bolts, egr valve, ipr valve, egr cooler, oil cooler, blue spring kit, new ficm injector harness connectors), this is what I'm left with on start up. I am now getting no SYNC -0
I had ficm sync before i changed the connectors on the injector harness (last thing i did besides blue spring kit). Has this motor turn this way? And my glow plug light now comes on during and post crank along with a weird fuel light with 3 teardrops I've never seen before. I need to check this out.
48.0 ficm KOEO, 48.3 crank
IPC 3 KOEO, 1100 crank
IPR 14.1 KOEO, 46 crank
IPC volt .23 KOEO, 1.23 crank
Passed bubble test
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Picked up a super nice 03' as is with a no start. It cranks over nice and smooth, sounds like it has proper compression, and has proper fuel pressure. Tried spraying either in it and it will almost catch.
Tried putting a known good coil pack on it, no dice. Usually when other engine slip timing chains, it will crank rough, like a few cylinders are zero. This is not the case.
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2004 6.0 truck ran fine parked it, went out next morning and has been a crank no start. Brand new ficm put in today. Also scangauge readings while cranking.
IPR DUTY 30%
ICP -1000+
ICPV-.2 and rises
FICM-49.5 Never drop below 48
FICM LOGIC-11.5V And it also drops to 9 volts cranking
FICM SYNC-Yes
CAM/CRANK SYNC-Yes
I can here fuel pump running and have checked the bowl and fills in 3 second, also have held valve down in oil filter housing and it fills up in 4 seconds. Oil level perfect half tank fuel .. Also I get no smoke from tail pipe while trying to crank. Acts like it not firing or has no fuel... Driving me crazy been working on it for three weeks.
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