Ford Excursion :: 2004 - Tires Feathering / Cupping
Aug 23, 2013
What is the cause of my New Tires are starting to Cup and or Feather pretty bad. Is this a aligment issue? Camber? I am just not sure because it feels like the truck drives Normal...
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Just put new tires on my excursion 4x4 powerstroke and I'm getting cupping just on the inside of both front tires it already has new ball joints and steering box tire rods are tight and all joints in the front. what else could cause it?
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I have been "fighting" a front tire cupping problem on my L99 F350 Dually 2wd since I have owned it.
I got LOTS of paperwork with it, one of which was a service ticket from the dealer where it was bought new (with VERY low miles on it) saying several passing motorists had informed them that the front tires were bouncing down the road.
I have read this service complaint several times and I now feel that has something to do with it. I bought the truck with 70k on it some 8 years ago-the PO had installed EXPENSIVE Michelin XPS Rib steering tires on it and they were already destroyed by cupping.
I replaced all 4 shocks, and all 6 tires, begged the folks to FIND something wrong/loose/worn out on the front suspension/steering and they found nothing, they aligned it. THAT set of Cooper Discoverer HT tires did exactly the same thing, except I spent a lot of $$ having the tires rotated.
Now I have a set of Firestone TransForce tires on it and its been to a HD truck shop where I begged them to rip into the front end and FIND something wrong-THEY DIDN'T. THEY installed camber bolts and aligned it, yep, you guessed it STILL CUPPING!!
So, now I'm thinking is it possible that the wrong coil springs were installed at the factory causing this bouncing that the original owner reported to the dealer? I have now destroyed 2 more tires and getting tired of it.
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I had my car drop for a while now on megan ez coilover. Before I bought my new set of wheels, I drove the car with the OEM wheels and they never had any cupping issues. Then after I bought my AME Shallen with 20mm hub centric H&R spacers on Nankang NS, and then they started cupping on the front inside tires after 5000 miles. I had the alignment done and only had the toe adjusted.(don't have camber kit) At first i thought it was the spacers causing the issue, but then I bought Orden's with new Nankang NS and had the toe adjusted to spec's again. Camber is at -3 BTW. Recently i started hearing the same road noise so I inspected the tires and found it was cupping in the front again! I also checked the front end of any damage or worn out bushing and couldn't find any signs of damage. I always keep my tires at 40psi, torque them down evenly, and I'm using hub centric rings. My questions is do you think is the Nankang tires or do I have a suspension problem?
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My tires are cupping on my Azera. I've had the tires rotated every 7500 miles as required by the maintenance schedule. The tires make a lot of noise while driving, especially at highway speeds.
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I just had an exhaust manifold replaced on my F-150. It has the small 8 cyl.. While the manifold was leaking, the truck of course ran like crap.....spitting, sputtering, barfing, etc.
Now that the manifold work has been done, the truck runs pretty well, except for some intermittent increase in throttle (not by me) when cruising at highway speeds. This is comparable to the "feathering" of the throttle that you would do when checking for engine noises.
Hard to explain without feeling dopey, but kind of a mild ruuum, ruuum, ruuum out of nowhere when I'm cruising along. I drive a 5 hr. trip every weekend, and it will do this about every 10-20 minutes.
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I am working to analyze my Granddaughters 2008 Escape FWD Auto 2.3 L issues with the Transmission. Vehicle has 142K miles with engine oil changes but no maintenance on the Transmission.
Engine was replaced about 9 months ago with a used 2.3 L with 52000 miles. Engine runs fine with no issues and NO Codes. BUT when driving the Escape I find it starts out in 1st gear and with a little feathering of the throttle will shift at 2600-3200 rpm directly to 3rd gear. (Based on known ratios and rpm vs MPH) Also no OD/ 4th gear. OTHER than the shifting issue it runs fine.Reverse works normally.
Summary: NO CODES from OBDII, NO OD lite ON or flashing, NO leaks, "wrench" light is ON solid after 1-2 miles driving, "wrench" light is OFF on restart but turns ON after 1-2 miles driving, Changed ATF - old fluid was slightly dark but looked and smelled OK - Drain plug magnet had slight coating of sludge - no dirt, metal or other solids. Transmission Shifting Lever properly selects Park - Reverse - Neutral - Drive with a quick/Normal change.
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How much air pressure should you run on 305/70/16 tires?
I had tires rotated and the shop had them at 35psi. That was just too low and didn't drive well. I have about 42psi right now and they drive better.
I've heard everything from 35-50psi.
What do you run?
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" Michelin LTX A/T 2 Load range E tires that are size 265/75/16"
I don't haul much and I don't tow.
How much in the front tires and how much in the rear?
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Had the tires balanced, still shakes. Had them balanced and tires rotated on the wheels for optimum placement. Still shakes, no visible bubbles for tread seperation. What to check next?
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I have an 05 Excursion Eddie Bower. Ordering new tires tomorrow and trying to figure how large of a tire I can fit on my factory rim without any issues My Excursion is completely stock!Going with the BFGoodrich All terrain K02's. I was going to go with 315/75R16's. Is that too big? Will I have rubbing issues? Will that fit the stock rim without any issues? Or how about 285/75R16's if the 315's are too big?
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My Excursion only has 74000 miles and I just replaced the original shocks with Monroe Reflex and combined with my Goodyear Silent Armor tires was running beautifully. Then after a "deal" from Ford, I replaced the Goodyears with LTX-MS2's and had the alignment checked since my Goodyears did have a little cupping after 45000 miles. They also checked all the front end components and said that everything was in good shape! Upon driving it home, the Excursion steering was extremely loose and I was ready to return the tires and get new Silent Armors, but I figured that there probably was something screwy with the alignment that they just did. So I brought it back, test drove it with the tech at 75 mph and he decided he needed to recheck the alignment. After the realignment, it drove beautifully, but after reading the posts on various forums regarding the proper toe-in on the front, I am questioning whether the alignment is set properly?
After the 1st alignment (in degrees):
LF Camber .3; Caster 3.0; Toe .01
RF Camber -.2; Caster 3.2; Toe -.03
Total Toe -.03; Steer Ahead .02
LR Camber .1; Toe .12
RR Camber -.03; Toe .16
Total Toe .27; Thrust Angle -.02
After the Realignment (in degrees):
LF Camber .3; Caster 3.0; Toe -.03
RF Camber -.2; Caster 3.2; Toe -.04
Total Toe -.07; Steer Ahead 0.00
LR Camber .1; Toe .13
RR Camber -.3; Toe .18
Total Toe .31; Thrust Angle -.03
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The stock 265/75/16 tires need to be replaced and I was considering swapping 285's on the stock wheels. Will I notice an increase in fuel consumption? I realize that calculating mpg will need to be adjusted due to larger tires since the speedometer will be slightly off.
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I recently purchased a 2000 Ex Limited 2wd. It is stone stock except a slight lift. This lift gives it a pretty significant rake that I'm not a fan of. I'd like to get this thing leveled out without spending a fortune and I believe that would require the knowledge of the FTE.
The pictures below show the rake and existing suspension mods. With 285/75 16 Tires there is about 6" clearance from tire to fender on the front and 9.5" in the rear. It has a 2" spacer under what I imagine is the stock front coil spring and a 4" block below what do not appear to be stock leaf springs (guessing because the anti wrap spring is not present).
I'd like to get the front end to sit about 3" higher than it currently is to better match the rear. Lifts of any type are foreign to me. What front springs (and other components) do I need (and what brands would you recommend based on hard earned experience) to make this thing work?
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Just bought a 2001 v10 ford excursion limited with 127xxx miles. I have a few questions.
1. I can't get the front tires to rotate while parked and stepping on the brakes. I thought it was caused by the 35 inch BFG goodrich all terrian tires and a lift kit i dont know how tall but apparently i'm just a sucker. From the searches i did, i think the problem is that either the power steering or brakes doesn't have sufficient pressure to power both at the same time. what is the fix to this?
2. I found metal shaving in the rear differential. For lack of picture, the best i can describe it is that it looks like shaving off an ice block. Also, the fluid is gray and consistency of sludge. I searched and some said the shaving is normal and others said fix now. Which is it? I assume that the rear differential fluid needs to be changed.
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I have 3 new tires and 1 with wave or cupping wear. It is a new tire not even a year used. I went in to get my alignment fixed because I was told the cupping is due to car being out of alignment. They told me I have to replace the tire with the cupping wear on it before they do the alignment. Is this true? or can i keep the tire and not have to shell out more money for a tire that is not even a year old. that being said, I am now doing more research and realizing that cupping is actually due to problems with the shocks. not alignment.
It's a 2009 toyota matrix xrs....
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I've had some noise while doing slow turns for the past 9 months or so, seemingly coming from the rear of the car. It's sort of a rrrrr ----rrrrrr -rrrrr noise, but it has a slight buzz to it too, like something is vibrating. It's hard to say which side it is coming from. It only occurs when turning to the right. But recently it sometimes occurs when going straight, but slow, like when approaching a stop light. Braking seems to have no effect. The other symptom is the left rear tire has very definite cupping. There are easy to see flat spots on the surface of the tire. The tire isn't perfectly round in other words, but more like an alternating sequence of flat spots. The other 3 tires don't have this cupping, they show a normal wear pattern.
I jacked up the rear of the car and tested each tire to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled, pushed, twisted. I could detect no play at all in either tire. I spun the tires by hand, and there was no unusual noise. They both just spun quietly, freely, with no apparent wobble or anything unusual. The service manual says the rear wheel bearing is bad if there is 0.2 mm of axial play. I doubt I could have detected 0.2 mm of play the way I did it, just pulling on the tire.
The only other thing I noticed is that the (rear) toe-in adjustment is different on the left than on the left. By this I mean the eccentric bolt-gadget is set on different marks on each side. The right one looks like it is set to have more toe in that the left. The right one is 4 marks positive toe-in, the left is 1 marks positive toe-in. I'm assuming these marks are just for reference, and don't represent the actual toe-in, just that's the setting it took to get the rear wheel alignment correct when the car was built.
Do I have a rear wheel bearing problem? A rear-tire alignment problem? Something else?
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I have 2010 GS350 AWD. Tires are Dunlop and have 7000 miles on them and the car has 47k miles. The issue is the rear inner tire are cupping and make roar noise. Car is all stock. I have done alignment twice at the dealer. They are telling me everything is normal. I have personally inspected everything under the car and did not find anything abnormal, no blowing bushing, and no oil coming from struts. I have read there is no camber adjustment in the rear.
What could cause the gs350 AWD this cupping? Only in the rear? Would camber correct such problem?
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 with the 3.55 LS rear end. I just changed the diff fluid to Lucas 75W140 synthetic and added 4 oz of Motorcraft friction modifier. The gears looked great when I had the cover off. But now my truck only seems to want to spin one tire. It was on a ice covered road so it shouldn't be that one tire was catching more traction than the other. Could a simple oil change cause the limited slip to stop working?
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I got a 04 f150 5.4 and ive ran into trouble and im not sure whats the problem. So im up in the snow right now and every time i start to go threw some thick snow my tires start to spin out and my truck shuts off on me. It only does that when i really give it some gas and my tires are spinning. Could it be the throttle body?
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My tires are 245/75/16, is there any benefit in installing smaller 16" tires?, I'm 5'5", I can still get in, but I would like to have it a little bit lower, will that affect mileage, speed etc.? would that even make a difference? if it possible how small can I go without affecting performance?
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