Ford Excursion :: 2004 - Stumbling And Running Rough With White Smoke
Nov 4, 2015
So I bought an 04 3 months ago everything seemed good all deltas were good had a small leak nothing serious. I had the egr deleted then i did the mistake of flooring it 1 morning at top end and the mech is telling me threw a valve. The truck was stumbling and running ruff with white smoke. looks like cycl. 7 took a hit and shows 10 psi of compression. The injector are in working order and so are the rockers. the bill is 3500 all in for new gaskets and oil cooler head work, arp studs and labor.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
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I have a 7.3 that's running rough. Started it the other day it ran alright but started blowing white smoke. Bought a oil and fuel additive i was going to run through it. Came a few days later, it stated up and was real loud and sounding like it was loping. It blew a good amount of white smoke, but it just smelt like real heavy diesel. Now i can only turn it over and it won't start.
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Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
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My car was running rough, with white smoke and strong gas smell coming from exhaust. It died out on me a few times as if it was not getting enough acceleration. Well, I coded it and said misfire cylinder 3 and 4. I also tried to shut down 3 and 4, but did not shut down. I switched 3 and 4 with 1 and 2, still did not shut down cylinders 3 and 4. Engine coils are good, engine module was tested and passed twice. Ok, fuel injectors 3 and 4 were leaky and I changed them out. New spark plugs and boots. New oil and filter..(There was gas in my oil and oil in my air filter.) With the new parts....my car sounds soooo much better!!! still a little rough, does not bog down, but it still has the strong gas smell and white smoke from exhaust..(gas smell soo bad I had to open all doors to the garage!!) What else could be wrong?!?! I'm getting frustrated!! It also has NOT ever over heated, does not run high.
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I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
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2004 6.0 Excursion.. I had an issue with lots of white smoke. A p0401 code, then the smoke stopped. I removed the egr and cleaned it. All seamed good until two weeks later. Now I have smoke again. Its seems to be only after it is warm. Do I need a NEW egr valve?
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2004 f250 6.0, 173k miles. I just had the head studs done and a new head due to a crack in one head, I got it back 3 days ago and she was running great. I towed my landscape trailer yesterday full of mulch and only went about 5 miles with the load, after the job driving to another one I noticed it sounded like it was missing at idle with a small amount of white smoke. Drove it home let it sit overnight, started it up this morning and a cloud of white/ blue smoke and a horrible rough idle. Smoke does not stop.
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My 04 PS was blowin white smoke constantly while running. I just towed a uHaul from Connecticut to Virginia Beach and had some coolant issues on the drive down (I was out of coolant on 95 in PA, added coolant and it made the rest of the drive no problem). I got here to Virginia and it was low on coolant again. I added coolant to it, and now I have some other issues. I had what looked like oil comin out the stacks onto the bed, so I pulled the turbo thinking it was seals. But the turbo was just rebuilt prior to me buying it with a wicked wheel in it. It still had stock EGR and it has 202K on it.
Checked and found EGR valve was wet. Ordered an EGR delete kit, and just finished installing it. Now with everything put back together, the truck doesn't want to start. It cranks but doesn't fire. I pulled the codes from my tuner and I got: P0403, P0405, P0683, and P2623. I know P0403 and P0405 are related to EGR but the others I'm at a loss on. The EGR delete kit I bought included the blank to remove the valve but what do I do with the plug that used to plug into it? Any way forward to get the truck back up and runnin again? This is my daily driver and not lookin to break the bank to get it goin again but I really need her to be reliable.
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So the last couple times I got a car wash the truck started running real rough, sometimes dies, then runs fine after a few minutes. Well, the last car wash I got it did it again, but the issue didn't go away. I checked the injector plugs, cleaned and greased, no change. Validated the bowl is filling with fuel, changed fuel filter, no luck.
Sometimes it will start and idle fine, rev in neutral fine, if you come off throttle abruptly it will fall below normal idle and start stumbling with an SES light and eventually die.
I managed to get it idling good, started logging with TPro (attached) and it was throwing codes P0475 - Exhaust Pressure Control Valve, and P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, as well as P1211, p1249, p1316 listed as 'multiple descriptions'.
I'm assuming this is an electrical issue since it happened after washing the truck, just not sure what sensor would cause all this?
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124k, original owner, no mods. Car was running rough and stumbling a bit. A bunch of codes came up. I replaced coils because I had them, spark plugs look good. One code came back p0103. I cleaned the throttle butterfly and replaced the maf sensor. Still same problem.
When I first start it cold it idles high but stays running , once it warms a little the idle drops and then it won't stay running. Then the traction control light comes on and then the cel. I checked for a vacuum leak but came up with nothing.
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My girlfriend has a 2004 Toyota Camry SE, 2.4, 4 cly, with 198k miles. All maintenance has been done per book guidance since she has owned the car. The other day the car began running really rough on her way home. as soon as she put it into park and lowered rpm the car stalled out. temperature gauge did not read hot, but noticed white steam comes from hood when i seen she pulled up, Opened hood let cool down and coolant looked nasty as heck. So I did coolant flush and replaced the thermostat as per advised from parts store. Did not make a difference because during test drive, half mile down the road, car temperature gauge was reading hot. Shut the car down waited 10 to 15 minutes and drove back home.
Altogether drove roughly 10 miles max in hot condition is stop and cool down and go again mode. Also note, this is the first time using a forum of this sort. Along with, I'm not a mechanic as some are, but I know my way around a tool box no problems. I'm on the verge of just ordering new water pump, belts, fans, fan relays switches, radiator and all since I'm going to be in there to fix it anyways.
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I've been googling for about 3 hours now, and no answers for the gassers, just diesels. When I start my excursion (v10) it pours white smoke for a while, then stops. It does this every time I start it no matter how far I go or how long it sits.
There is plenty of coolant in it and I've never had to top it off, so I don't think it is getting coolant in the cylinder. With that much smoke it wood definitely need coolant if that's what it was. Oil consumption is kind of high in my opinion, but the smoke smells rich.
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Tonight we left baseball field and my 2005 excursion was white smoking all the way home. I Stopped Several Times And Checked Coolant Level And It Never dropped. I let it sit for a hour and coolant level is still at my black mark. So does this mean it's a injector? It poured down raining so I'll have to wait till morning. Will scanguage show any codes for injectors. If so I can program in the morning.
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I was having an issue with coolant loss and white smoke from tailpipe. Was told it was likely intake leak vs headgaskets. Changed intake gaskets, fixed the issue for a day then it started just dumping coolant from every available place in the exhaust system. Was draining a full collant bottle in about 2 minutes. Was also checking for exhaust in the coolant with the tube and blue liquid which it stayed blue. Had previously done a degas pressure test and it passed. The only test I hadn't performed was compression test which all the cylinders output was lowest 160 to the highest about 185. Did not perform a wet compression test as I was mainly looking for base compression and consistency.
Not sure what healthy is on these vehicles but considering they were all running pretty close I call it good. Also it idles just as smooth. Pulled intake a 2nd time and rechecked my previous work. Everything looked fine so I put it back together. Ran smoke free for about 50 miles now I'm back to smoke after it sits a bit but it clears up after a short drive. What am I missing? I will note that I had a small coolant leak from drivers side rear of engine that I noticed while it was parked in the shop. I'm assuming that would be the oil cooler? But oil is clean so it's not mixing. What other avenues on these engines can coolant make it into the exhaust? Drives perfect with no power loss.
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My 7.3 won't start after sitting for almost 2 months, the wiring for the injectors was bad, and the first package was damaged, so I had to order a new one, and wait trough Christmas before I get the new parts. The valve cover seals have now been installed, and all parts fitted. Thieves stole my batteries so I had to buy new ones there as well.
When I tried to start it, it will crank, but not start, white smoke comes out of the exhaust, and glow plugs seem to be fine. One thing I did notice is that the fuel pump under the driver side of car was making a wired noise when turning on the ignition, it was not a constant hissing sound that I used to on my other cars. I poured a small amount of condensation remover in the tank, the tank is half full, but still no start.
After trying a few times, it did sound like it would get better, but that only lasted for a second. Strange problem, I think my fuel pump is acting up, but I don't know for sure yet. The fuel pump did work when I parked it. Could it be a fuse that does it? I checked the hpop to see if there was any oil there, and it was.
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06' with 85,000 on it started smoking yesterday. When idling , and stopping at red light, and then sometimes it doesn't. Run it this afternoon for about 10 miles, let it warm up. Ran good and smooth didn't smoke when cranked then at the red light it started to put out a little white smoke. Drove back home, pulled egr valve and it did have a little wet on it, the coolant level has dropped some to. I scanned it and it didn't have any codes, no misfires or anything! Is it safe to say that the egr cooler has a small crack in it and its just starting to leak?
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After a hard rain overnight, my truck would not stay on. I had to give it gas while still in park or it would cut off. Also I noticed white smoke from the exhaust while doing that. Eventually car stayed on. But now at when I come to a stop, the car will cut off when I put my foot on the gas to take off. I also.noticed the overdrive button will start to blink. Once the car gets going a few miles, then it's fine. Then this process starts all over again once the car is parked. Also the service engine soon light came on.
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When I first start my excursion in the morning, it starts fine, idles fine. If I don't let it sit for about 5mins plus i have this issue. I will start off and it has no power at all. I can barely get up to 20mph. It doesn't seem to want to change gears, I don't hear the turbo spool up. Then all of a sudden it will go to next gear, turbo spools up and it has power again. It is like I said a 6.0 power stroke, its a 2004 excursion with 214k miles.
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I have a 2007 F-150. Here is the story....
Last summer the truck was idling rough and seemed to be stumbling a bit. Took it to the dealership and had it diagnosed. Had a mis-fire code on cylinders 1 and 3. I was told to do the spark plugs and clean the MAF. After replacing all plugs and cleaning the MAF the truck seemed to run better but it didnt last long before it started doing the same thing. My Edge Evolution started showing misfire codes in cylinders 1 and 3 again and the truck is stumbling like crazy. Here is what i have done:
1. Swapped the plugs from cyl. 1 and 3 with cyl. 5 and 7 and the problem followed.
2. I replaced the bad plugs with new ones and i no longer get a code for those cylinders but the truck is still acting the same.
Now I am getting two codes saying the system is running rich on bank 1 and 2 and a misfire code in cylinder 4. I cleaned the K&N filter and replaced the MAF but it is still the same. The truck stumbles horribly under a load and has NO power.
History:
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat
75K miles +/-
K&N Filter
Edge Evolution (has been kept in stock mode)
new spark plugs last summer
new MAF (this week)
New Fuel filter (two summers ago)
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I have a 2001 7.3 that almost has everything practically brand new... new hpop, water pump, uvch, gpr, glow plugs, icp sensor, ipr sensor, cps and new turbo pedestal that was leaking oil, well now my truck has a cold start to where it has to be plugged in to start and when it finally does it smokes white pretty bad, misses and sounds like it's jumping around under the hood up until it warms up and revs fine with less white smoke but still a miss!!
Compression on test has been done, and good, fuel pressure is good, but the buzz test when cold shows 123457 muffled and quite and when the truck is warm only 3 and 4 are still muffled and quite? Injectors sticking?? Or just need New injectors!
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