Ford Excursion :: 2004 - Interior Light Do Not Come On - Relay?
Feb 17, 2015
My 2004 EB 6.0 2wd Interior lights do not come on. Running boards lights do. Pulled the fuse and its good. Is there a Interior light relay some where in the truck???
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0 diesel 189k kilometers. Had an egregious delete done about 3 weeks ago. A couple of nights ago the temperature was about 10 degrees f and Whalen I started her it sounded like electrical arcing or grinding. She started and off I went. The next morning it was 0 f went to start and made the same noise and then just stopped cranking. Now when I turn to start I get nothing except the relay click under dash. I tried jumping the solenoid and got nothing. Someone told me that my ground connection might be off the starter. Problem is I can't seem to get at the starter.
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I know this has been beaten to death for years, but I can't find anything to my specific problem. My dome light stays on but rest of my interior/running board lights will go off after 30 seconds on my 2000 Excursion 2wd with V10.
When I got truck it had the door ajar light on which I fixed with the WD40 trick. Then I realized I had no dome light up front - pulled off the cover and there were no bulbs. Replaced the bulbs but couldn't get the lights to go out. All the other interior lights would go off.
I've swapped relays, checked the fuses, used the WD40, and I've made sure dimmer switch wasn't all the way up. Only thing I can see is that passenger side bulb "foil" power thing for that dome light bulb is torn so that bulb won't work.
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Looking for a wiring diagram for the interior lights? 2004 EB.
Gotta chase down the problem, no interior lights coming on, switch or gem...
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3. I started out with my batteries dying after a few days of sitting. I found the interior lights were coming on dimly, and the relay buzzing. great, got it. I pulled the fuse and ordered the dimmer/light switch. I came back next week and the batteries are dead again. Charged them, drove the truck, and then the radio starts coming on without the key on. Pulled the radio.
Next day the truck starts fine, but now the seatbelt noid is going off all the time and the tranny overdrive is blinking "off" but still shifts fine, and goes into overdrive. The speedometer also works erratically... I read a post about the marker lights leaking, I looked and that's a definite possibility. My question is are all these related back to the GEM or BCM? or more problems?
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I bought my 2001 f250 5.4 a few weeks ago. It had a blown plug but other than that everything worked fine no codes. I fixed the plug yesterday finally had time, tried to crank it and battery was dead. So I charged the battery up and tried to crank and engine wouldn't turn over just a click like battery was dead even tried battery off my explorer same thing. I tried arcing the solenoid on started it arced but engine didn't turn over. Tried cranking again and started having crazy electrical problem. The #1 relay for the interior lights was making a repeated click click click and int lights would flash in sync with the clicks.
I then realized my headlights,blinkers,stereo wouldn't work but when I would cut headlights or hazard lights on the blinking int interior light would stop until I turned headlights off. I have an obd link sx with enhanced ford diagnostics software so I plugged it in, and I had 12 B codes all of them was relays that "supposedly" went bad at exact same time and there was two C codes that were raps related. My initial thinking is the gem but if it was bad why would it throw 12 bcm codes and two chassis codes. Could it be the raps and if so I wonder why it would throw 12 faulty relay codes. I guess my question is where would I start gem,bcm,raps or is it something totally different then that.
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I found that both my headlights was out. I went and replaced one of the lamps and found that it still did not work. I started troubleshooting and it led me to the headlight relay. Where to find it?
*When I turn Headlight switch on = No Headlights
*When I turn the switch to auto = No Headlights
*When I turn the switch to headlights and hit the function switch to turn on brights = No Brights either
*If I pull back on the function switch to momentary = Brights come on until I release the function switch
I have 13v on Red/Yellow wire when I switch to headlights, but I do not have any voltage at the Headlamp wires.
Headlight System with DRL 2002....
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My horn isn't working. The under-dash fuse is OK and was going to check the horn relay, but can't figure out which one it is despite numerous FTE and Google searches. I pulled the cover on 2 power distribution boxes under the hood, driver's side. One box has 2 relays. The other has 4. Which one controls the horn?
Then...how do I test it to see if it's good/bad?
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Working on the dang ram 3500... I am needing to add a relay, however, i need to strap the coil of it with a diode to protect the frigging cluster (the new dodges aren't very mod friendly!). My question is, should I add a second diode before the relay to protect the cluster against back emf, or will the one strapped across the relay coil be enough?
Since I am sure you're curious now, the cargo light (light that lights up the bed) gets its power from the gauge cluster of all places. I need to add a relay to the cargo light circuit to drive some other lights, and I am worried the back emf from the relay coil will fry the cluster circuitry.
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I had a loose bulb in my overhead interior light I tightened the bulb and now the gauges quit working the sunroof, rear window, air compressor, windows, radio and airbag warning flashes?? I checked the appropriate fuses in the panel fuses and the 30 amp breaker all good??
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I have a 2005 6.0 and a FICM tuner from PHP. I need to remove the FICM relay so I don't fry injector 1 (I think that what it is). Anyway, I've done a lot of reading and can't seem to figure out which relay it is. The instructions say the relay closest to the passenger front, but also say almost always grey. So, The grey relay is passenger toward firewall. The directions also say that the injectors will not buzz if removed. I took each out and still had injector buzz. Tried again tonight, truck is hot, just been driven. I pulled the grey relay and turned key to on. Buzzed for just a second then stopped but did the same for the other relay and same when put back in.
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Well, it's starting to look like I may have to build my underhood harness from bits of multiple harnesses. I found a 2000 Excursion harness, but the engine plugs and wires were hacked off during engine removal.
After in-depth study of wire diagrams, it looks like I can just get a pickup harness and combine it with the aforementioned damaged Excursion harness to get what I need- and do it for about 50 bucks.
I also notice that there are a few Ebay sellers who just sell the fuse/relay box with the wiring harness hacked off of it. So my question is- how do you remove the wires (including the terminal ends) from the fuse/relay box? I've fiddled around with my burned up parts and can't seem to figure it out.
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I added signal paddle mirrors on my 2000 Ex. I found the left and right turn signal wires under the dash. The mirror led signal arrows light up but they do not blink. Do I need a separate relay or am I just missing something here? I did a search about adding mirrors and extra wires but nothing is mentioned anywhere about the blink/no blink remedy.
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I have a 03 for excursion and I am pretty sure i blew the relay for the fog lights today but looked in the glove box and everywhere for the owners manual and cannot find it anywhere in site... Looking for a diagram or can take a picture of where the fog light relay is and post it on here and which fuse or relay it is ?
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I installed an EP27 electronic turn signal relay and changed the tail bulbs to Sylvania red 3157Rs in our Exped and everything works fine. I installed another EP27 in our Excur and the relay starts clicking when nothing is on and nothing else has been changed - all stock bulbs and working fine before.
No lights are blinking, but the EP27 turn signal relay is clicking away. Select left turn, right turn or hazard lights and they blink fine. Deselect the lights and the relay continues to click. Swapped the relay from the Exped to the Excur and it clicks, too. Reinstalled the stock turn signal relay and all is fine. There must be some difference or problem in the wiring, it doesn't make sense.
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- Fuse Box - Part # 3C7T-14A067-DC Engineering Number on white label.
- Ford Dealer Part # 3C7Z-14A068-DB
I have a 2004 Ford Excursion 6.8L 4x4 that has a bad fuel pump relay. I am looking for a used replacement fuse panel.
Of all these number and letters which of them tells me the real part number? Does the last two letters mean anything "DC" or "DB"?
So I don't get one for a diesel, what is the prefix for the diesel? I am assuming the 3C7T is gas and the year model?
Also, will this fuse panel interchange with a F250/F350 6.8L or do I need to stick with a fuse panel from an Excursion?
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On my way home from work today I could not believe my eyes when the Hybrid Warning Light came on…yes, the RED TRIANGLE! I was just cruising down the highway and I heard a relay click and then I saw the warning light illuminate. Also I noticed the A/C air started warming up, the fan stayed on though, so I am guessing the computer shut off the compressor?
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Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
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2000 excursion V-10. I parked the truck, went back to start it and all my gauges blink, and the number one relay under the dash (interior light relay) begins clicking. The truck will not even crank. The relay will continue clicking (even with the key off) until you remove and replace the relay. Sometimes I will get absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I have tried jumping the battery, no change. Also tried starting it in neutral to trouble shoot the NSS, but it won't even click when in neutral. I checked battery connection, and followed the battery cables to look for a short but found nothing.
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My Dome lights will work when switched for "reading lamps" but will not come on via the dimmer switch or when the doors are opened.
I have a bad bulb in the cargo area which I removed. (don't know if every bulb has to be functional)
I have no listing in the owners manual for interior lights or dome lights for the fuses. I assume the 10amp one for the gauge cluster was it.
Have an 411 on where to check now? Also looking for a parts listing for replacement bulbs for all the dome/reading lights.
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I want to start swapping out the stock lights for LEDs, beginning with the interior ones. I have read the de facto standard thread about LED swap here: [URL]...
For interior lights, the tacked thread mentions 39mm Festoon. However, when I go to Super Bright LEDs and put in my year, make and model (2002 EX), I get 578 LED Bulb - 8 LED Festoon - 44mm for replacement interior bulbs. Which is correct? 39mm or 44mm? Is there that big of a difference between the two? Will either size work?
I just want to make sure I order the right size to fit a 2002 EX. ETA: I want to start with ordering a few each of 5900K and 4300K just to see the difference in the truck and want to make sure I get the right ones. I don't want the Close Encounters look going on inside.
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