Ford Excursion :: 2004 - Hard Start When Warm?
Mar 9, 2014
I got a new to me 2004 4x4 Excursion v10. 98,000 miles but why it is hard to start when the engine is warm. Starts right up when cold, engine not ambient air temp, idles great once started. In park idles at 1,000 until normal op temp is reach, then down to 750ish. In gear idles right at 650. Drives great. Plenty of power, does not surge, averaging 13.7 mpg over two tanks (70% hwy, 30% city) and no codes. Since it is new to me, and I don't trust people to do maintenance I have:
Replaced spark plugs
Replace downstream o2 sensor (the two upstream were not in stock)
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced belt
Replaced crank sensor (because the belt was already off)
Changed oil (mobile 1 5w20) and filter.
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I have a 2002 F-150 4.2L that is hard to start when warm. Cold starts are no problem, except in the below 0 F stretch last winter. Also when it is a hot start it is not an issue. Only when it has sat for a few hours does it have an issue. The following is the list of things that have been done.
- New Plugs,
- New Plug Wires,
- New Coil Pack,
- New Fuel Filter,
- Clean Throttle Body,
- Clean Mass Air Sensor,
- Clean Idle Bypass,
- Replace EGR Vacuum Control Switch,
- Manifold Leak Repair (Ford Dealer),
- Throttle Body Stop Adjusted for more idle speed,
- Check fuel pressure (40 psi key on, drops to 35 psi static).
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I have a recently rebuilt 400 with a mild cam and Tmeyers flat top pistons. The carb is a 600cfm edlebrock that was bought new and installed a few months ago.
The issue I'm having is if I'm driving around and shut it off to run in the store its hard to start when I come back. I end up having to floor the gas to get it to start. When it's cold I tap the gas and turn the key and she lights right off. Could this be an issue with vapor lock? Why does it go away if I floor the gas?
Only other thing going on is when accelerating the engine runs noticeably smoother above 2700rpm. It's a little boggy below that. Probably two different problems but I figured I would throw it out there.
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I have a problem here which isn't funny around 30F. The engine temperature act quite normal after a cold start, but the heating inside is disabled somehow. So I can select any temperature in the front and back, but it stays cold.
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I recenty replaced the upper intake manifold gasket on my gmc sierra 1500 350 motor. In the process I did plugs and wires and power steering pump. I went through everything and cleaned it to perfection and put it together. It started like a dream and took it for a test burn out in the country. About 15 miles down the road I shut it down and went through all the fluids and upon starting I noticed it was really hard starting. Kinda like it had alot of compression. I just replaced the battery 2 month ago with the best Interstate battery they had and it still checks out good.
Every time I went to start it cold it started normal but when warm it had the same hard starting issue. Well a week later I stopped at the store before work and it did the same but then just rested to a stop and now the starter just clicks every time I turn the key. I can turn the motor over by hand with a wrench and all battery connection are good. I just put a new starter in today thinking that may have been a fluke of a deal but nothing still. I did see when I first tried the new starter that the pulley on the alternator was trying to spin over ever so slowly tell it quit again.
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I am having a problems with my intrigue... Hard to start when warm i checked the pressure reg vac hose found no fuel so im not sure if that is the problem. I have the 3800S11 engine. sometimes it will start when warm other times i need to push the gas a little to get it to start.
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My Camry has 185,809 miles on the 4 cylinder, it has recently started to be hard to start when it's at operating temperature, has code P0301 and p0302 replaced spark plugs at 185,000 miles no change, possibly ignition coils?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry LE V4 version, it has about 47k miles on it and about 4.5 yrs old. I have developed a problem over the past few months where the car will crank fine in the morning or when cold (sitting around for several hours or overnight) However if the car is Warm when driven for about 10 miles or more, then parked and then started again in 15-20 minutes it will feel hesitant to start, seems like it takes several cranks before starting and literally feels like it will die while cranking but it will eventually start.
i have the original stock battery, i got it checked at O'Reilly and they confirmed that battery, stater, alternator looked good and cold cranking amps looked good and other items checked out as well fine.
I am not sure what the issue might be at this time, However since the problem is at random and only when outside is like a 100F (which it is not now) and it is warm/hot (driven after 10+ miles), i am not sure what is wrong with the car. I have been using Top Tier gas for the most part, however i had used Arco for about 3-4 months during the Spring/Summer of 2013.
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This has been going on for 3 or 4 months can someone tell me where the ETC sensor is located on 4 cylinder 2008 Elantra ?
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I have a 99.5 golf gls with an 02' engine in it. 5 Speed, neuspeed supercharged with a bunch of other stuff done to it.
I've had this issue as long as I've owned the car (3-4 years). Starting the car cold, it usually fires right up and can drive it e, no problem. However, when I get the car up to operating temp and turn the car off, if I immediately try and restart the car it either :
A.) chokes but will fire or
B.) will have a long crank and usually starts hard.
Another thing I noticed is that at low RPM right after the clutch has been engaged, the car seems to almost hesitate like something is holding it back, even if I give it more gas. I have checked my codes with Vag com and the only CEL I have it for not having a post cat o2 sensor (picks up that the heater circuit is unplugged). I also have run some diagnostics on my fuel trim and both long and short term fuel trim are within spec. I tested two different mafs and both were around 2.5g/s at idle. Checked for vac leaks and didn't have any.
I have read that a dead/dying crank sensor can give me the symptoms I have, but I seem to be lacking a symptom where the CEL is on for the sensor, and my car doesn't randomly die when driving. So my question is, have any of you had the same symptoms but no CEL?
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1991 honda crx si - starts fine when weather and engine is cold but lately giving me trouble starting when it is warm [above 80] and engine is cold [has not been driven for several hours].
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My 2000 VR6 Jetta has an annoying problem of hard starting in warm weather. Last summer through fall when the weather was warmer, it would often crank but not catch. All winter it is fine. A jump will usually gets it after a while. Replaced the battery with limited success. I park in the shade whenever possible. It has the manf. alarm system, and, also, but not always, it is accompanied by key not turning off the alarm. Do not have remote. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. No success. Cannot predict, so I don't want to have it sitting at the dealer for days on end.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe and have recently noticed the following problem. When it is hot outside (95 degrees) and car has been idling for a while, suddenly the A/C will start blowing warm air and the temperature gauge will start creeping up above normal. It hasn't fully overheated as when this occurs, I shut off the A/C or start moving and it returns to normal temperature. The A/C will then work properly again. Also, when this happens, if I turn the car off and then try to start it again a few minutes later, it is very hard to start but eventually starts. It can easily be reproduced, but I want to try to understand possible cause before taking it to a dealer. I was thinking maybe fan going bad, or fan switch.
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I just bought an 03 Ex that hadn't been driven but 600 miles the past three years. Needless to say, there's probably some sludge causing issues somewhere. I have a Scangauge installed, which has been very useful thus far.
I've flushed the coolant, currently with distilled water, changed the oil and filter, atf and filter, and installed my 2nd set of fuel filters after getting stranded after I ran my first tank of fuel through it. After changing the fuel filters the second time, I was still having cold starting problems, requiring 3-4 long cranks before firing. Once warm, runs fine. I just installed a FICM from Diesel Tech Ron, but I still have to try 3-4 times to get it to cold start, then it runs and starts ok. Not sure why the hard cold starts...
Also, the heat doesn't work. A/C is fine, blower is working. I installed a new thermostat, and like I said, I have flushed the coolant with tap water and now distilled water, but didn't want to pour in fresh coolant just yet, in case I have to drain it again with this heat issue. That vc7b is not cheap. Tonight I drove the truck about 20 miles and my highest temps for EOT was around 215 and ECT was 205. Fluctuated between the the mid 190s to low 200s most of the time, this was over some hilly roads with no load or anything. Anything else I can monitor or check on in the mean time?
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I've got a 2004 wagon and occasionally, when it's warmed up, if I shut it off it's hard to start again. When I turn the key it fires up, but when I release the starter it dies, like I've shut the car off. Giving it throttle makes no difference. I have to do this several times, and then it keeps running. Never does it cold. No codes.
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Truck runs great if I get it started. Here are symptoms.
-Extremely hard to start when engine is cold
- It will start fairly quick if plugged in all night
- After running there is no issues with starting unless sits over night
- Batteries good and engine cranks fast
- Tests and parts I have replaced
- Replaced GPM (Glow Plug Module) I do not have the relay as most seem to have on their engines. I did replace this unit.
- Replaced Glow plugs all 8 this morning. Since they where cheap enough it did not hurt the wallet.
- Replaced crank position sensor. Tach moves when engine is cranking.
- Checked the HPOR and it has oil about 1/2" from top.
Now what is left to check besides doing a buzz test to rule out injectors? Also if truck runs fine and does not run rough could injectors still be bad?
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The vehicle is a 2000 Excursion 7.3 Diesel. I have never owned a diesel before....
First issue is that I have developed a hard start. It started last Saturday, and went from sporadically starting hard, to starting hard every time. I have 146,000 miles on her. She cranks strong, but will not turn over the first time, sometimes takes 2, 3, or 4 times. (Foot on gas pedal) I don't know if it's an issue of not getting enough fuel or what. Occasionally, even after she starts, it's very rough (shaking the whole vehicle, and acting like she wants to die) until I rev the engine and she smoothes out. After she smoothes out, there is no problem with wanting to drive, she's strong. If I kill the ignition, and start up immediately, she starts the first time, it's only after 10 minutes or so of being off.
My next issue is a clunking noise when I press the gas pedal. I don't know if it's the tranny, because she shifts pretty smooth for the most part, doesn't miss gears, etc. I could be travelling say 50MPH, press the gas pedal very little, and I can hear the clunking, and actually feel it every time I press it. (Don't have to be mashing the pedal, happens on very light presses as well).
I have the TS Performance 6 position chip, otherwise she's stock. I tow roughly a 7000 travel trailer every couple of weeks, never any problems before this.
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Got 2004 v10 and my truck shifts hard into 2nd gear when starting off slow. If I take off at a faster pace it does not do it.
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I have 2004 f150 small v8 (4.7?) Has about 92000 miles.
When warm truck runs excellently. At first start up the idle is very rough and raw gas smell for about 4 minutes then truck runs like new. Will start and restart great until it cools down overnite.
My actron says missfire cyl 3. Did not fix it. Dealer says that on start up compression is zero in cylinder three but is 100% when it warms up. Suggested I run seafoam through it. He thinks it has a vacuum leak or carbon at start.
In my limited knowledge I am thinking:
sticky lifter
bent push rods
warp valve
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My 04 6.0h started puffing bluish colored smoke typically only when I was accelerating. After a short amount of time I noticed it was smoking quite a bit when cold and until it had fully warmed up. I took it to the repair shop and they pulled it apart saying the turbo seal had failed and the turbo was full of oil. I purchased a new Garret PowerMax and had it put it in.
I picked up my truck and of course it was still smoking when cold. After it warmed up nothing, just like before. Since I just put a new turbo in I am worried this one will be ruined as well since the same condition exist. My mechanic said I need to run the truck for few days before the oil would get cleared out which had accumulated in the system. Am I mistaken in thinking that if it was residual oil burning that it would be more likely to do smoke when warm as opposed to when cold?
Since the turbo and seal have now been replaced what else should I look for to cure my blue smoke blues?
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I just rebuilt my E4OD transmission in my 1996 F250 7.3L it has all new clutch packs torque converter and a shift kit. When I first put itback together it would not shift out of second cleaned mlps and shifts threw all the gears now. I took it out on the road to test it and this thing ran great shifted smooth and quick could not askfor any better but when Trans temp gets around 140-150deg it shifts hard and od light flashes. I have ordered a scanner to read the codes but won’t be in till later this week. What I could check in the meantime.
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