Ford Excursion :: 2004 - Dash Lights / Gauges Stopped Working After 30 Minutes Of Driving
Dec 15, 2012
2004 Excursion 4x4 6.0. I just had the fuel injectors & wiring harness replaced and it runs great, but after 30 minutes of driving the complete dash lights/gauges stopped working. I found that the #45 10amp fuse had blown so replaced it and after 20 minutes the same thing happened. While it was working all of the lights & gauges seemed to be working okay. This doesn't effect anything else, still starts & runs okay, turn signals work, head lights work, but the head light auto on/off doesn't.
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2003 Excursion 4x4 Limited v-10 gasoline engine powered
gauges stopped working
gauges dead
gauges not working
gauges
Coming home tonight, I lost all the instrument cluster gauges. Speedometer, tachometer, fuel, oil, temperature and transmission temperature.
So the logical thing to do was check both instrument cluster fuses, fuse 35 and fuse 41. They were both OK.
Kept looking and found fuse #45 blown, it's the "Ignition switch Run/ Start feed" fuse. It was blown.
Popped in a new one and gauges came back to life. I don't know why fuse #45 controls power to the instrument cluster gauges. Strange.
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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I am working on my son's 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4/6L truck. He was driving it when the gauges and the tach stopped working. I replaced the cluster and it still blows the fuses. The five amp fuse that is specifically for the cluster doesn't blow. It is a twenty five amp fuse that also power the overdrive circuit, etc.
After replacing the gauge cluster I installed a new fuse and the overdrive button on the shifter started smoking. Where I could get a wiring diagram of this circuit so I can see how it is wired.
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My truck was fine yesterday morning, but when I got in it after work, nothing worked. The power windows, radio, ac, gauges all stopped working. Everything else does - power seat, wipers, turn signals....etc. What is going on?
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A few days ago my speedometer stopped working. Then yesterday all of my gauges stopped working, as well as my turn signals. If this is a fuse issue then which fuse it is?
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All five clearance lights on my cab stopped working, and I can't figure out why. I've read all the threads, but few show the wiring, and are more useful for installing than troubleshooting. I think I have the Ford SKU'd ones, not the Recons, but I can't say for sure. Here's what one of them looks like:
My questions:
1) How do you remove the bulb from the rubber mount? Just pulling it out didn't work.
2) Is there a fuse somewhere (in the harness, perhaps?) that protects these things? All my overhead console functions and lighting work fine.
3) Is their only connection to the vehicle wiring at the harness connector behind the passenger kick panel? I checked it, and it is well connected.
4) Is there a connection on the headlight switch? I've not checked there.
I bought this vehicle 14 years ago and they were already installed, and have worked perfectly since then. I hate stuff that doesn't work...
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Have a 2000 excursion V10. Cruise wasn't working when I bought it. There are no lights on the dash that come on and I changed the switch on master cylinder. What to do. Fuses are good
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Tail and dash lights would go out unexpectedly, so I would turn light switch off and then back on and they would work. After about a week they stopped working all together...I checked all fuses related to the lights and dash as well as bulbs.
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Ihave a 2004 F350 4x4 Dually diesel. While in my hay field I hit a small rut and the truck bounced. About two seconds later all gauges and lights/windows quit working and the truck ran rough. I have a Banks system and it registered a code 33. Maybe 32 error. Book says it is an airbag deployment. They did not deploy. So I drove out of the field and turned it off to see if that would reset the gauges. No, not only that but the gauges all swept the faces from off to full to off and the truck would not start, just chatter.
I disconnected both batteries and waited. Reconnected and it started, but the gauges quit after 10 seconds..... Everything flatlined even the banks IQ. But the truck kept on running. Got back to the ranch and the batteries went flat overnight... Charged them up, starts fine gauges work but alternator puts out 11.5.
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this thing stopped working on me today, can i fix it? or how can i get another one?
04 Ex
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I need a tutorial as to how to get to the dash lights in an 04 Excursion.
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My keyless keypad has stopped working on my 04 Excursion, what could be wrong.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 94k miles. On cold mornings I have consistent problems with the car's electronics. They can be as benign as a warning bell about 2-3 minutes after starting driving. Sometimes, one of the warning lights will accompany the bell (power steering, traction control, etc), and then return to normal. Some mornings, all of the gauges will not work/stop working for the first 2-3 minutes of driving and then return to normal. The worst case scenario is that the car will not start at all. All lights, radio, etc. will work, but the car will not crank. I have had the car to a couple of shops where they have tested the battery and starter.
Both are new and working fine. No codes are ever generated. My question is how can I go about isolating what appears to be an electrical (or electronic) fault somewhere in the system that gets aggravated by cold weather. I read in another forum that the ignition system in other GM cars (the Saturn ION was one example) would trigger a fault in the ignition system in cold weather and the KeyPass security system would shut down the ignition for 10 minutes. For me, it's only occasional that the car will not start, but there is some electrical issue most every day that it's below 40 overnight. I have never had an issue after the car has started once during the day - this only happens on the first start of the day. Only once did the car go 2 days without starting.
1. Battery cables?
2. fuses?
3. etc.?
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We have a 1999 F-350 V10 super duty. The alt was over charging and the gauges stopped working. Replacing the alt, the guages still don't work, and the new thing is the charge light and selt belt light comes on. The fuses 29 (5amp)and 30(30Amp) which are supposed to be key on hot only are hot at the same time. With these on, it causes a drain killing the battery. Also if the truck is started, the lights go out, but when you try to turn the vehicle off, it stays running, one with the battery disconnected. The only way to shut it down is pull the fuse box power fuse, 50(amp)Some one had been in the dash before we got this vehicle and busted, burned out or removed the check engine light. I can read codes and their vehicle runs fair and does operate. Could this be a dash board? Also this problem appears when the truck is sitting, and the key removed nothing on. No fuses are blown either.
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OK, I just got done replacing the alternator on the wife's 05 escape 3.0 V6, after it started on fire. The 3 wire plug was melted onto the alternator, so I had to replace the pigtail. I'm 99.9% sure that I got the wires in the right place. But now, after putting it all back together, it idles sporadically, when I drive it seems almost like it's trying to start out in 2nd gear, and shifts oddly. And there are no dash lights or gauges. Headlights work fine. And everything worked normally before I took it apart.
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My father in-law gave us a 1996 explorer AWD with a 5.0 for my son who is 16. A couple of weeks later he's out learning with my wife and a very strong electrical smell took over the cabin. They came right home and when I got in I found all of the gauges not working. The instrument lights work, blinkers work, but all gauges do nothing. Pulled cluster and wires look O.K. behind it from what I can see. They saw no smoke, just smell, fuses look O.K.. What could cook on this vehicle that would wipe out just the gauges?
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Was driving the other day then suddenly fog lights stopped working, I changed the bulbs still wont work, so I checked the fuses to make sure all was ok, and everything was perfect. And now I am completely lost, have no clue what to check to make them working..
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I have a 1995 BMW 318i and my gauges freak out when I drive or when I am stopped. All of them, not just one or two, like flip back and forth over and over and then eventually will return to their accurate readings. Then they do it again and again. It's not always the same how long they do it for and sometime they will go a whole day without doing it and then other days like today they just dont stop.
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I have a 2000 F350 4x4 with 7.3L diesel and a manual transmission. While driving home yesterday my gauges (fuel, temp, volts, oil pres) stopped working. Within a couple min the speedometer and the tach also stopped working, but the truck was still running fine. Within a couple miles the engine stopped running, just like I had turned the engine off.
After having it towed home I checked all the fuses, none are blown, but there is no power to fuse #16 (15A, instrument cluster, high beam head lamp). Also in the fuse box under the hood, again, no fuses are blown, but fuse #9 (left head lamp low beam) and #11 (right head lamp low beam) have no power to them.
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The other day I bought an sct tuner for my excursion and its been a little glitchy, likes to freeze up and lock out my ecu.
I was driving yesterday and today I try to turn it on and my engine knocks badly revs erratically and all gauges weren't working so i shut it off. I tried to start up again and it flashes the theft light and abs light. Won't crank won't do anything my whole engine is locked out.
So i tried reverting the ecu back to stock. I did this several times once it simply lost power and shut off at the end another time it said wrong vehicle and the final time it said completed.
Now when i try to start up it does the same thing and will not do anything but flash lights at me... When I downloaded the file it said select vehicle: 6.0 superduty. That was the only choice, and the guy at the store said that the truck tuner will work in my excursion I specifically asked if this works in the ex.
I really need my truck otherwise I will he paying hundreds in taxi fare. I tried calling the store and sct but both are closed on weekends.
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