I have a 2004 Big X. Original alternator was replaced as it only was producing 9 volts under a load. Replacement alternator failed within a day. Did I just get a bad re-manufactured one or would something else cause failure?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 VW Golf 2.slow. I have done some research from other threads but I'm wondering if mine is a simpler fix then testing all the wiring. After taking the car to Auto-Zone and having my battery and alternator tested they said the alternator was the problem. I had to wait a day to get paid to buy the alternator so I had them charge the battery. After I put the battery back in and started her up I got a flashing e-brake light, ABS light and no A/C. My A/C clutch compressor isn't kicking in either. I checked my brake fluid and it's fine as well.
View 15 RepliesI just recently replaced my alternator and battery in my 08 Toyota yaris and it's still not holding a charge. My blinkers, radio, and heating and air won't come on , also my wheel is hard to turn and in order to shift gears I have to push down the white button near the shift stick. I'm so confused as to what else could be going wrong and my mechanic can't seem to figure things out my last resort is the dealership but I'm thinking that would be expensive
View 4 RepliesI had to replace my alternator (single unit) and after installation it seems only 1 of the 2 batteries is charging when I check them while the truck is running. What check or could be the problem?
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 Excursion was rear ended. Body shop replaced the bumper. I noticed that the reverse aid was no longer working. I checked and noticed that non of the sensors were working. It was working before they replaced the bumper. If the speaker is out, would the four rear sensor still tick? I find it mighty strange, that it worked before and after the accident. Now that they've replaced the bumber, Every time it's placed in reverse, the light comes on.
View 4 RepliesDriving home my radio quit working. I looked at the gauges and they all dropped to the left. The it looked like my lights quit working and then the truck just quit. All of this happened within 5 miles and 10 minutes. I jumped it and quit before I could even get going, it did start momentarily. Could not even get the gear shift into neutral; had to jump it to get that to happen.
It is 2006 F150 4x4, 5.4L engine and about 95,000 miles.
why after 3 or 4 plus days, a 1996 ford crown Vic will not start. have replaced alternator, courtesy of the ford dealer.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford F250 Superduty 4x4 6.0L Diesel with an alternator/battery problem. We have charged the batteries (had them tested at auto zone), and replaced the alternator and still cannot get the batteries to keep a charge. I'm not talking a slow drain, with the ignition switch on for less than a minute it drains about 4 amps and the truck dies. We also noticed a trouble code "TBC fault" and discovered that was to do with the trailer brakes. Disconnected the trailer brake system (have been noticing a "check trailer" warning occasionally recently). What could be causing such a massive drain on the batteries?
View 3 Replies2003 f350 6.0l single alternator. Replaced alternator a couple weeks ago with one from napa, noticed a humming with key on and the engine off . Traced it to the alternator, called napa they said it was not normal come get a replacement, put the new one on same thing. Charging in the 13.5 to 14v range the case of the alternator seems to get hot quickly when running.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 V6 F150 and replaced my alternator in about five minutes and now have been trying to re-install the serpentine belt for about 6 hours. How do you grab the tensioner pulley?
Also I selected the 130 amp new manufactured alternator at Advanced. Auto thinking the 130 amp might be somewhat of an upgrade to my original Motorcraft Alt and after several hours I also discovered them. pulley on the new alternator is about a quarter inch larger in diameter than the original alternator. I wonder if I should compensate for a half inch longer belt or try to get the same one on.
In any case I cannot find a way to grab and move the belt tensioner to allow me to reinstall the belt around the alternator. Are there any pictures anywhere on how to move the tensioner to create slack when reinstalling the belt?
After changing my dead alternator and resulting dead battery, I am having what seems to be electrical issues with my 2.8L VR6.
Neither of my keys can unlock or lock the car remotely and when I try to start the car, all the regular lights turn on in the dash, but the engine dosn't make a sound. Inside the car there is no power apart form the gauges, no windows, no AC, no sunroof, nothing. I have checked the fuses, unplugged the battery and plugged it back in, even changed the batteries in my keys to make sure that they weren't out, and nothing works. I have also tried to reprogram both keys and neither of them unlock the doors.
I think that it might have something to do with the anti-theft system, since I didn't touch anything while changing out the alternator.
Coming home tonight I drove the last 10 minutes in total darkness with only enough power apparently to keep fuel pump running. I just replaced the alternator two weeks ago but it seems to have gone again. At the alternator I have 11.3v at idle. There is a two wire plug plus the power cable. One of the wires has constant on power. The other has nothing. It is not switched even though I think it is supposed to be. Is it fused somewhere?
View 7 RepliesMy Ex is missing the label showing the serpentine belt routing diagram. I pulled one off the Autozone website for V10 with AC. It showed that there are 2 idler pulleys (one on the left and right side of the alternator). It also has the tensioner pulley.
I only have a tensioner on the left side of the alternator. The one on the right is missing. There appears to be a threaded hole where a pulley should go. Since I bought this used, I thought the previous owner took it off.
I used the bolt from the old tensioner pulley I replaced for the hardware and put a new pulley on.
I also looked at other V10s on used car lots and none of them had the pulley to the right of the alternator. Should there be one there?
I've attached some pictures of what it looks like. Sometimes there are no lines and just black but the display button still overlaps. Everything else seems to be working. I think this happened when I got the 12v battery replaced. I am also not sure I have a nav dvd. How do you eject those DVDs?
View 2 RepliesLong story short, I had to replace an alternator and I thought while I was at the shop already, and might as well get both belts replaced. (The Echo has a belt for power steering and a serpentine belt). After the shop replaced theses 3 thing. I drove off, alternator worked, belts didn't make noise. Then a week later, I got the infamous squeaky belt sounds while starting up the car. I've been trying to track down this sounds for a while now. And I found out it only come on when the engine is cold and when I'm driving with the engine cold.
I promise you that my belts made no noise before the belt change. Is it possible the shop didn't put the belt correctly? Also, I'm not that mechanically inclined, what causes belt the squeak anyways?
My battery went dead so I replaced with new. This did not fix the problem so I replaced the alternator. It's working now but the battery light stays on. I think I still have a problem.
View 3 RepliesOK...I ask that you bear with me while I explain my question/issue.
I bought a used 2006 F350 Super Duty diesel last October (Oct 2015) and it has about 124,500 miles on it now. Last week, the power cut out as I was driving home from running an errand. Jumped it and got it back to the house. Suspected the alternator as both batteries tested low (according to AutoZone). Purchased the 110amp alternator and after a few days...I was able to get the alternator installed. AutoZone charged the batteries back up.
Today, I was able to start the truck and drive it around the block in order to make sure everyone was okay - before I took it out on the streets. Got back to the driveway....ABS light comes on, radio shuts off, odometer light goes off, etc. I shut the engine off and let it sit for a minute. Try to start it back up...and nothing happens. Ended up disconnecting both batteries while I ponder the root cause of the issue.
Is it possible the 110amp alternator is not strong enough to handle the power requirements (and that's why the dashboard lights went out)? To the best of my knowledge, there's only 1 alternator. The only "extra" that's installed is the tow/haul package (which I haven't used yet). According to the Ford Parts web site - after I enter the VIN for my truck - the results show a 110amp alternator (heavy duty alternator).
Would exchanging the 110amp for the 140amp be the most logical place to start? Or is there something I missed as a replaced the alternator?
I decided to change out my alternator to a high output. After researching I've decided to go with a DC Power...I'm planning more lights and a power inverter. Any recommendation on which one? I don't care what it cost just don't want to over do it, can too many amps hurt anything? Also, on my previous EX I did the big 3 upgrade. Is it the same on a 2 battery setup?
View 14 RepliesBought a Powermaster 250amp alternator for my '05 V10. Says I need to upgrade my power and ground wires to 4 gauge with fuse on power cable. I don't really run too many accessories other than HID heads and fogs and 2 DVD screens for the boys.
Do do I really need to upgrade my wiring? Can't imagine I'm pulling much more amperage than stock (130amp on my truck).
2005 Excusrion V10 6.8L .. Have the PO720 code ..
Replaced alternator it was bad when tested
Replaced OSS - the voltage on this when running varies in the 1.3 - 1.7 range.
What should the ohm voltage read? What would you try next?
A few weeks ago my battery died and I had to jump start my car. After the jump start, my heat wasn't working - no air will blow out on heat or A/C. I checked the fuses - all good.
I pulled the blower motor out and tested it and it worked hooked up to a battery. At one point when the blower motor was still in the car I banged it with a hammer and it turned on momentarily then shut off again.
Since the blower motor seemed to work outside of the car, I assumed it was the resistor that was bad. Replaced , and still no heat.
Could the blower motor be bad and just have worked hooked to a battery intermittently?
What else could it be?