Ford Excursion :: 2003 V10 Will Completely Shut Down After Driving 100 Miles
May 15, 2014
I have an 03 v10 with a Powerdyne supercharger. The Ex came with an extra computer with a Superchip. The Superchip has a proper tune for the supercharger but when I install it with the extra "bad" computer the truck will completely shut down after driving ~100 miles. This is very dangerous because I lose power steering and brakes during the shutdown. The Ex starts back up after a few minutes and then shuts down more frequently until I reset the computer. I speculate that something is going wrong after the "bad" computer has learned the driving habits.
The other "good" computer works great and does not ever shut off the motor, but at full throttle the Ex will bog and I am losing HP produced by the SC. I don't think it has the optimal tune because my wideband AFR reads lean right before it bogs and I think it is bogging to protect the motor from a lean condition. I would like to install the chip into the "good" computer that never shuts the truck down to get the benefit of the proper tune, but I don't want to risk damaging it or experiencing the dreaded shutdown. A few questions :
- Why the truck shuts down while under power?
- Any reason to think that the chip will cause the "good" computer to shut down while driving?
- Could the chip be causing the shutdown, not the actual "bad" computer itself?
- Would the best option be to send the chip to 5star tunes and have them program a tuner with the superchip tune...and a few others?
- Any way to flash the "good" computer with the superchip tune?
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Yesterday when i was driving on highway on my dash board the lights came on: the check engine light, master light, brakes lights. After driving couple of miles my car completely shut down. I took the exit and after that the car didn't start at all. Even i couldn't start the ignition to connect my OBD scaner to read the codes. Now I even can't do something to read the codes or to turn the engine on somehow, what to do.
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I have a 2003 Sport Trac that basically died last night on me. I drove it 30 miles Shut it off for about 10 minutes came back out and it cranks but it will not start. I sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body and it ran for a second, so it's definitely a fuel issue. I am just not sure if it could be a fuel pump, Relay, or a dirty Fuel filter (I have not changed in the 87K I had the truck). Because it ran fine before it died..
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I am a new and very happy 7.3 owner. i have lurking around these forums and decided I didn't want to be a creeper anymore. So onto the fun stuff.
Yesterday my wife was exiting a freeway and the Ex shut off while exiting. once she came to a complete stop she tried turning it on and it would start then immediately shut off. she was able to turn it on and it would run then shut off as she drove across the intersection. once she made it across a good samaritan offered to park it for her. She noticed a little bit of black smoke but she told me that the guy was revving it to keep it running.
Luckily there was family at the mall and she waited for the flat bed to arrive. it sat for about 2 hours and they tried starting it and it would start then die. no more black smoke though. we had it towed to a diesel repair shop and they went to start it today and alas it started right up. they let it idle for 30 minutes and it was good. they test drove it and all good. they ran the codes and got the following:
P1876
B1352
B1483
U1147
One thing I did notice a couple of weeks ago, while driving on the freeway cruising about 65, the Ex surged a little and then ran fine. then another time it surged a little while idling. Some more info on the rig. it has a banks six gun tuner and has a cold air intake and exhaust. And it has a Banks Big Head wastegate. I bought the rig 2 months ago and changed all the filters and fluids.
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While driving along my Expedition will completely shut down, ignition, all accessories, everything, for a few seconds then come back alive. It happens generally up hills or around right turns.
It is like the main ground strap is loose and losing contact momentarily. I don't know where to look for this. Engine was replaced 1500 miles ago. Battery and all visible connections seem ok.
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so I was driving down the street the other day then my car completely shut off no interior lights car won't turn over radio wont turn on had to push it up the hill, to get it out of the street and get it towed.
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My 7.3 skips when driving, completely random, but it did skip many times in a row when driving over a bridge, moisture seem to be the culprit somehow. I have replaced CPS, UVCH, Glow Plug, Glow plug relay. I have not replaced the harness from outside the valve cover to the CPU that controls them. Its a 200.000km truck (125.000) miles, that has been well kept and seen little towing in its life. How did you fix your 7.3 from skipping? When it was not a CPS?
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My 08 prius completely shut off while driving on the california freeways today. No warnings no lights on the dash nothing. Just powered off. Will not start the ready light of any dash lights for that matter work.. tried to jump it.. nothing working. What the he'll can cause thus.. I'm about 500 miles from home with a car just parked. Could a 12v battery cause this no start issue?
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I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I took it to the dealership on June 30, for a routine oil change and other maintenance that was due. They did a cooling system flush, and oil change, a power steering flush, and a brake system flush, along with a multipoint inspection, and replaced the belt and tensioner. On July 18 on my way to work in traffic, the vehicle completely shut down with no warning signals. Shortly after the check engine light, the oil light came on. Until then, I had not noticed any warning lights.
At this time I reached down to get a bottle of tea from the passenger front floor board and noticed a slightly oily pink brown liquid on the plastic floor mat. When it was towed to the dealership, they tore the engine apart and reported that the engine overheated, the valve seats came off, the valves hit the pistons splashing metal onto the cylinder walls and requiring an engine rebuild. Is the dealership responsible for not having discovered whatever problem caused the engine to break down? Or causing it somehow during the maintenance on June 30? They feel it is not related.
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The front end on the ex started humming really bad today after driving 350 miles to Memphis Tennessee. When I noticed the humming I pulled over and unlocked the hubs thinking the front axle is low on gear oil. No change when back on the interstate. If I turn right at highway speeds the noise completely goes away. While driving straight its pretty loud. The more I turn left the louder it gets. Just had the front end apart to do all ball joints tie rod ends etc. the hubs looked great and didnt have any play at all. The noise happens between 40-65 mph. After 70 mph the noise goes away. Doesn't go away when I let of the pedal, hit the brakes, put in neutral while driving, or accelerate. Could it be the hubs?
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Camry LE V6. It started when the CD play stopped working, and rather than going to the dealer I just bought an OEM one on craigslist. It works great, except now when I take the key out of the car after about 30 seconds the electronics shut off completely. Dome light goes out, map lights don't work, keyfob doesn't work, etc. As soon as I put the key in the car and turn it to ACC or ON everything comes back, but if I take the key out I lose power within 30 seconds or so.
I am assuming this is a security feature because there is likely a mismatch in codes between the original, and new radios.
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Yesterday, I was driving on the highway at a 65-70 miles per hour (basically pushing it for my '96 RAV4). Suddenly, the car turned off. The engine cut out and the battery and oil signal came on. It did not lurch as if I had popped the clutch, nevertheless, I went to restart it as I was going down the hill and it made it home for the next 40 miles.
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I purchased an '03 V10 Excursion back in '13 with about 145000 miles on it. I've added another 30,000 in the last year and a half. It's been good but has started missing and has gotten to the point where it will shut off at times and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. The MIL has never lit from the missing. Twice after it cut off the MIL was lit with a speed sensor error.
I've purchased a BAFX Products Bluetooth OBD2 interface and I've tried a couple of different Android apps with it, right now I'm using Torque Pro. It says it's an OBD I system which I saw references to in the "Why your MIL doesn't turn on" thread. I'm seen references to using Mode 6, but everything I've read seems to indicate that's an OBD II feature.
The missing gets better and worse. Some days it will seem to be fine and then other days I have to keep it rev'ed up to keep it from dying while stopping for a red light.
When it dies, it dies while stopped in drive or reverse. It has also died a couple of times while moving in reverse while connected to a 3,500lb trailer. Every time it's died it has started right back up.
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I got a brand new 590 HP Ford F150 Raptor with the Roush Supercharger. The car's electronics have completely shut down twice (first at about 800 miles and again at 2500 miles). I called the dealer the first time it happened and they said i must have bumped the key. I figured it could have been a fluke, but then it happened again so the car is no longer safe to drive.
I've taken it into the dealer twice and they can't find anything wrong with it unless i can recreate the problem for them. Obviously if it happens once every 1000 miles, that is tough to do. The only common theme was that it happened both times while slowing down and turning left.
I've given up on having Ford service, so i'm about to just replace the ignition on my own dime. If i didn't put $25k into it already, i'd just make the dealer take it back under lemon laws.
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2003 F-150 v8 4.2 4x4 with 295k miles ...
Yesterday while driving in town going 35-40mph my F-150 gauges spiked just before the engine shut off. While still moving I shifted to neutral and tried to restart, no go so I was able to stir to the shoulder and park, turned the key off. Sat there for about 30-60 seconds and the truck started up and I was able to drive off. [added] Forgot to mention, there was no check engine lights or anything, when I drove off, it was as though nothing happened. Not sure if it matters but temps out here was about 105 degrees and I was blasting the AC (which seems to take longer now to cool things down a bit).
I've had the truck since '04 and the second owner, been pretty descent with fluid changes and such, in fact was on my way for quick oil change when this happened. The tech there thought it could be either the alternator (battery is roughly 6 months new) or the ECM.
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Truck in question is 2002 F150 4.6 with 150K miles. Crew was on interstate tonight driving 65 MPH and truck shut off. They called me out to trouble shoot. Engine had oil (was a quart low) and will not start. Starter engages but will not turn motor over. Had truck towed back to my shop. I removed belt just to see if it may be a locked up pulley i know, long shot)... it was not.
Employed called a shade tree mechanic he knows and trusts. He said was likely a broken timing chain and that is a common problem in 4.6. Said locked engine is probably because broken chain is wrapped around shaft. When I turn key fan does move about 1/4 inch.
1) Does this sound like a possibility or even a plausible explanation? Just trying to verify the information.
2) If this is the case, would a repair be advisable, or is engine likely shot and i should just replace it?
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My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
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My 2013 Avalon Limited was purchased in Dec 2012. It is my 3rd one - have always loved them. But THIS one has been a disappointment. It seems that every 10k miles the battery completely loses its charge and the battery must be completely replaced or fully charged - RIDICULOUS. I only have 30k miles on it! Is this a known issue with Toyota? I have gone from feeling completely confident in my car to not knowing whether it will start up when I need it!
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My car has worked fine since I got it 1 year ago, I just put a new battery a few months ago but when I tried to start it this morning it started for a second then completely shut off. I cant even take the key out of the ignition (infiniti q45 has a button on the ignition that needs to be pushed while taking the key out and that button is stuck now.) When I open the door, the lights on the side of the door and the open door sound work but they are both very distorted and faint.
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I have 2004 Toyota Camry V4 Automatic , I recently installed a Two way Compustar Remote Starter a month ago. While i was driving my vehicle on the highway (110 kmph) my car engine shut off completely with no lights. I parked my car on the shoulder and again start my car normally with the key and was able to start it normally. There was no engine check lights or any kind of warning.
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Down hill toward intersection with light that turned red. I braked fairly hard and then all of a sudden, brake pedal goes to floor and I go through the light. I pump brake once or twice and still nothing. Luckily I made it through without hitting anyone and eventually stopped with emergency brake. Turns out the line to the rear brakes blew. It was probably weak and maybe the pressure from braking hard blew it. This was sudden. There was no warning whatsoever. Reservoir was empty and practically no brakes in the front. There was enough front brakes to keep the truck from idling forward, but that is it. I thought that I should have had full front brakes with a modern day master cylinder. Looks like Ford blew it with this one. Very dangerous design.
Is there an upgrade available? I never want this to happen again.
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