I just got my 2003 excursion v-10 gas and its bad but when I'm towing my camper it weighs 8500 lbs empty and I'm trying to back it up on the beach the tranny ( when I'm in reverse ) starts spitting trans fluid out the vent on top ! went on fire twice ! the trans temp gauge never gets hot tho and other than that it works perfect, I was told this was a big problem?
View 14 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
This line is rusted out on my V10 and leaking fluid.
How hard/expensive is this to fix?
I'm in the middle of doing my exhaust manifolds right now, so I'm hoping it's a simple bolt-on fix.
Is there an easy way to drain the tranny fluid in the power steering pump, or do I need to take all of the fittings for the pump, gearbox and cooler apart?
2000 7.3 Excursion with stuff ....
2000 Excursion 7.3 unk transmission
Quick run down on the situation. It has been terribly hot here bumping 105 degrees. I was told by a man he could see fluid leaking and it was trans fluid. I checked it and filled it up and got it to the shop.
Next day they said it was not leaking and that it probably overheated. They recommended an after market trans cooler. They put it in and off I went. 60 miles later I got fluid all over the rear of the truck. I filled it up again and got it home. Shop says I need a new trans.
I have a 2000 2wd with the 5.4 in it. I tow a travel trailer and loaded is 6500lbs. Today leaving the campground I had to climb an extremely steep hill as soon as you left the campground. No time to build speed. The old Ex made it, but I was definitely worried. The truck ran fine the rest of the 2 hours home. I went to back my camper into its spot to store, and smoke started coming out from under the hood. When I crawled under it, tranny fluid was leaking on the ground. A pretty steady drip. I let it cool down, added fluid and drove around. Didn't leak anymore. Did the tranny just get hot and had to burp? The drip was coming from where the tranny connects to the motor.
View 8 RepliesA little background info...up until about 6 months ago my 01 Ex V10 was a grocery getter for the wife; only got a few thousand miles a year for the most part. Since we moved from Washington state to Texas it has turned into my daily driver (after a 2500 mile drive towing 8k trailer).
A couple of weeks ago we were running errands and after we got home there was smoke coming from under the hood, but I couldn't pin point it. I let it be because I figure it would let me know when something was really wrong. A few days later it did it again but this time I found the problem; transmission fluid was leaking out of the bell housing onto the y-pipe. I did my research and come to find out it is most likely the front pump seal that got soft from overheating. So my buddy and I drop the transmission and replace the seal. Put it all back together and everything seems great.
Another week goes by and we have driven the Ex fairly extensively around town and even took a couple short day trips and everything is great. Then as we are turning onto an on ramp to get on the highway I give it gas to speed up and all of a sudden the RPMs climb like it dropped into neutral. I had enough momentum that I got over onto the shoulder and started to check thing under the hood. Looked like I was low on trans fluid; ok so I added a quart. Put it in "D" and still nothing. Then I try "1", "2", "R" and they all work fine.
2000 with the 5.4 liter ... 263,000 miles ...
My old girl tends to spit and sputter especially when taking off from a stoplight. I put my foot in her and get the rpm's around 3000 and she starts acting right. Is it something more than say the obvious spark plugs or fuel additive??
The trans fluid appears to need to be changed. I do not know if it has been changed in the past as this 2001 F150 with a V6 truck is new to me and has 88K miles. I am wanting to drain the torque converter as well as drop the pan and change the filter. I am willing to take the risk of having to rebuild the transmission if the flush junks it up.
Three Questions:
1. Is there any issue with mixing the synthetic with ATF fluid as there would still be ATF in the cooler and other places unless I take it someplace and have it mechanically flushed?
2. Is there a way to determine if my 4R70W trans has a drain plug in the torque converter with out getting under there, looking thru the inspection port while some one is clicking the starter?
3. Is there any reason not to put a drain plug in the pan while it is uninstalled?
I pull a 23 ft travel trailer with my 99 f150 4.6l and so I decided I needed a trans cooler just to be safe towing in the dead of summer. I got a few quotes for right under 300. I couldn't justify the labor cost considering the cooler was under 100. So I made up my mind and decided to do it myself. I watched a bunch of videos for other makes and models but couldn't find nothing on my particular model year truck. I finished it today and I realized that my transmission fluid fluid is very dark. I have never serviced the transmission ever not even a drain and refill. I am going on my trip in about 7 days, and was wondering if I should even mess with anything to do with the transmission fluid. I put about a half quart of new fluid to top it off after the install of the transcooler but now I am worried that my transmission may not be in the best shape. Truck shifts fine as far as I concerned and acceleration is ok, so I am hesitant to do anything to it.
View 3 RepliesI just purchased a 2000 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 automatic... it ran great for a few days and even ran fine on the 100+mile trip home from the previous owners house. All the sudden it shut down on the highway today. I could barely get it started again and when it did start, it ran like hell, bucking and jolting, almost like a really bad misfire. I could also smell trans fluid being heated up, so I let it sit awhile and then it fired right up. It drove for about a half mile and began to act up again. I threw it in second gear to limp it home which it died several times on. Each time I'd let it sit for like 15 minutes with the negative battery cable off. It fires right up after that but the problem quickly returns. Also the overdrive button doesn't work, and the trans control switch fuse (spot 29) blows repeatedly. Also the power door locks do not work.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Excursion 7.3 2WD Limited and all of the sudden experienced a number of issues all at once.
1. Turn signals stopped flashing (hazards still flash)
2. Lost Rear back up sensors
3. Lost overhead trip computer
4. Lost Rear A/C - switch does nothing
5. Front A/C now only blows through the defroster vent
I've checked all the fuses and cant find any bad ones.
I replaced the multi-switch flasher and turn signals still dont work - only hazards.
Re packed / cleaned my hubs. Did a 600 mile trip and front driveshaft is locked again. Am trying for first time soaking them. They are in tranni fluid right now. I can't afford warn hubs. Is there any other tricks? Or will I have to soak them every few months?
View 13 RepliesI've got a 7.3 tranny that has had ELC Coolant and water mixed in with tranny fluid because of a bad radiator. I drained the fluid from the tranny a week ago and when I pulled off the pan today there is still junk in there. I'm planning on putting in a new filter, gasket and Mercon V but how do I clean the old stuff out of there? Picture.....
View 14 RepliesAfter doing some hunting/wheeling with my son, got back to town and 2003 Excursion w/ ~145K miles would not budge in any gear. No codes with Scangage. After 30 minutes I finally thought to rev it up and it shifted hard into gear, and drove normal home. What do do now?
View 4 RepliesThis is a 1999 with 200k on it. It has a really bad hpop so valley is full of oil. Haven't removed the HPOP to inspect the non serviceable plug or the hpop gasket. doing that this week. This truck I just bought and it has aftermarket injectors so dont know the miles in injectors. once the oil leak is resolved I can then give the injectors the once over to make sure theyre okay. Question is how much of a stream of oil should I expect to see as the engine runs?
View 11 Replies2003 Limited 6.0 130K. Just took a 1000 mile trip for spring break. While away, I noticed a small leak near the front passenger side of the truck. It is red so I assumed it was transmission fluid. It is leaking from, the best I can describe, a small housing that looks like it might be a filter near the tire (it looks like the old style canister oil filter housings). All the hoses are clean and where the hoses go into the radiator are clean. Is this an easy fix? I am a bit worried about trying to get the thing off without damaging the hoses.
View 3 RepliesMy trailblazer started with the spitting and sputtering (misfiring) last week. Over 100,000 miles on it, ya, in need of a tune up. So for obvious reasons new spark plugs seemed to be the logical choice. If it wasn't the problem, it can't hurt to change them. Truck's SES light did not come on, but truck was running pretty crappy, more when it was cold than hot, but definetely a loss of power. There is also a slight exhaust leak starting, where abouts right now I haven't pinpointed, deaf in one ear so it's hard to tell where it is coming from.
So I had my brother in law install the new spark plugs. We took the old ones out and 4 and 5 cylinder plugs had oil on them. Ah great, valve cover gasket and the gaskets the spark plugs sit on (don't ask me, not a mechanic lol) need to be changed. Started with just the plugs for now. Started truck up, still had a bit of vibration on idle, like it would from an exhaust leak, but still didn't seem right . But an even more noticable loss of power when driving, truck doesn't seem to want to get above forty.
Now my SES light is flashing almost consistently unless I'm stopped (idled). It almost feels like the cat is clogged. Did smell a heavier than normal gas smell when changing out the plugs. I know that the flashing SES almost certainly means a misfire. But why would it all of a sudden come on after changing the plugs? Tomorrow I am going to my friends garage who has the scanner tool (not just the one that reads codes) to see if it is a bad coil pack and to see if there is a specific cylinder that is misfiring.
But there is something about that exhaust leak that is leading me to believe it is the culprit of my problems. Leak came first, then the misfiring. Could the cat be clogged, which blew a hole in the exhaust and cause a misfire? And the new plugs just made the misfiring worse to cause the SES light to come on? Is there anything else I should check besides a faulty coil pack and compression check (even though I should have done that when I changed the plugs, but live and learn).
My passenger side rear vent window is leaking and I was gonna redo the weather stripping but I can't figure how to release the latch from the motor. It looks like a ball and socket type connection with a little wire clip in it, but I tried pulling it out and it wouldn't come out very far, and tried pushing in in more but no luck. I don't want to break the darn thing for sure.
View 9 RepliesI have to once and for all try to figure out what the heck is up with the AC and the defrost/vent switching back and forth. I have searched and searched and posted a few months back as well. But now that it's summer and 100 degrees out I've had a chance to test some more.
1 - I replaced both hoses going to the hubs up front.
2 - I am not sure how to test vacuum, but I did cap the hoses that lead to the hubs and still had the fluctuating back and forth
Looking for detail how to test for vacuum leak with a gauge directions ? What number is supposed to hold on the gauge and for how long etc...?
3 - It used to be that when I got to a high speed or RPM it would shift to defrost, but now I've noticed that once on the freeway going to work for instance and doing a constant 55-65 ( sub 2k rpm ) for about 20-25 minutes the vents hold fine. When I start to stop and go with higher RPM's it starts to 'break down' again. Could it be that there is a vacuum canister or pump ? I don't know ?? The diesels have a vac pump - do the V10's ? What can I check if there is no vacuum leak - what's next ?
I am adding an auxiliary trans fluid cooler to my C-6 in my F-250. Should the fluid route thru the aux cooler first then the stock rad cooler, or thru radiator cooler to aux cooler? Which stock hard line is fluid FROM the C-6 (HOT), and which is the return line (cold)?
Vehicle is 78 F-250 4x4 crewcab, 400/C-6