Ford Excursion :: 2003 - Track Bar Replacement?
May 23, 2017
I'm attempting to install new x codes on the front of my 03 x and I was wondering if the track bar should be replaced? Bought one just in case, oh and any tricks in getting that bad boy off?
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So I can clearly see the track bar clunk in and out about 1/4 inch when the wheel is turned in either direction...guessing its time for new bushings.
What's the latest and greatest on these? or is "whatever they have on sale at summet from moog" is fine?
OEM only? Truck has a 4" lift, stock bar attached to the drop bracket.
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I changed out my front springs awhile ago and recently pulled off the track bar and replaced the bushings with Energy suspension bushings.
Today I noticed that the Ex is sitting a bit low on the drivers side. I measured from the bottom of the fender to the ground, drivers side 40 inches, passenger side 40 1/2 inches.
It was really hard getting the track bar back in after the bushing change. Would an adjustable track bar fix this?
This is for a 2004 Excursion 4x4 with a 6.0. Bilstein shocks, approx 1 1/2 years old.
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I have the CaryT V/ modded B 33" kit installed, and re-torqued after 200 miles. But since the install the EX pulls to the left and I have a clunking in the front end. The alignment shop said they have my alignment "dead nuts", and it must be my tires. Well I replaced my tires and wheels and I still have the pulling problem.
The clunking I believe is coming from the adjustable track bar, the torque wrench only goes to 250 ft/lbs so went to 250 and then tightened a little more. I have no way to measure the 396 ft/lbs in the specs.
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I am looking in replacing the front shocks on my 03 excursion. It is 2w drive with the 5.4 engine. What recommendations for a smoother ride?
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Overdrive off button hasn't worked in a couple years and there is no power to the switch so I figure the wires across the column are damaged. Even after replacing the button a couple times the ends were always falling off so I'm ready to replace the entire shifter arm assembly. I also need to replace the bushings since the arm is loose.
I will also be installing yet another turn signal since the one from Rock Auto didn't last long. The new one will be from Auto Zone, which said the shifter arm is a dealer only item.
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I am in need of new radius arm bushings (both sides). How to be able to just unbolt the sway bar, unbolt the shocks, dismount the coil springs so they fall out to the sides and then drop the rear of the radius arms so they could press out the old bushings and insert the new? This is a 2WD and I think the process would be same for an F250 of the same year (2000 - 2004). The reason I ask is because I really, really don't want to have to get down to the king pin level and completely remove the radius arms if I don't have to.
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OK, this technically isn't for the Ex (since it's a diesel), but I do need to replace the spark plugs in a Ford V8 soon. Problem is I've been running diesels for a long time and haven't really kept up with spark plugs.
Seems like there's lots to choose from now. Regular old fashioned, double tip, triple tip, platinum, kryptonite, thermo-nuclear tip, etc. Is one spark plug really any better than another, or is it all just marketing gimmicks? Is it worth spending extra for some fancy sounding spark plug?
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I have a new-to-me 2001 Ex V10 4x4 w/ 132k. I'd say it's 85% and I'm slowly working to get it to 100%. Right now, I'm tackling the low hanging fruit. I'm trying to track down the front end clunks and creaks.
I cinched down on the driver side sway bar end link and it took out some of the clunk. I traced the remainder of the clunk to the drag link which I can rotate about 20-30 degrees by hand. Both grease boots are shot.
New rotors and pads get here Monday. While I change them, I'll be working the front end issues as well. I went ahead and bought the Energy Suspension sway bar bushing kit and will swap them all out. I also plan on replacing the drag link ends too.
My question is: do I need to replace my tie rod ends? The grease boots have definitely leaked but I can't detect any slop like the drag link. If the grease is leaking all over is that a sign that they need replacing?
I've never done steering work before but it looks straight forward. Any tips for a novice? Anything I should be aware of before I start? While I'm down there, is there anything else I should change while the steering is apart?
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I need to replace the body mounts in my Ex. How do you do it?
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Is there any particular front stabilizer shock I should purchase for a replacement for my 2003 X 6.0L diesel? Anything I should stay away from?
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While driving the other day I heard a loud bang under the ex. went back and found the rubber bump stop on the drivers side had rotted and fell off. After inspecting the passenger side it looks like it is about to fall off . I dont mind spending money to keep my equip in proper running order but I dont want to be taken advantage of doing it!
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So in order to get my hood to open, I have to pull the hood release lever in the cab, go pull up on the hood itself, then pull the release lever again, and pull on the hood to get it to finally pop. Is this a cable perhaps going bad? Or another issue I need to fix?
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Is it a do it yourself job to replace brake lines. Never done it before or even seen it done. Special tools required? Will the auto parts store know exactly what I need? Are these questions answering my question?(don't do it) ...
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I'm looking to replace the headlights and turn signals on my 2002 Excursion - I've seen loads on Ebay, but don't really know how to tell what ones are ok? I like the chrome style, and like the led lights too - but mainly I just want the front of the truck to look more modern (I am buying the 05 style grill too)...
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I have a 2001 Excursion and I need to replace my headlight assembly. What is the difficulty level of replacement? Any recommended assembly they would suggest that throws out some great light?
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I spent write a bit of time and this process is living proof i can't do it.
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I changed my rear axle grease a couple of weeks ago and now I see some fluid coming out of the pinion seal. Do you think I overfilled it or do I need a new seal?
How hard is it to replace the pinion seal, will I need a new crush washer and will it knock out the preload?
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I have a new set of towing mirrors for my beast and also a set of the LED smoked signals. It appears that the old ones just "pop" off but I would like to know for sure.
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I love my Ex and I love my dobermann, but the two did not mix one day. In a matter of seconds, he almost chewed completely thru the driver's seat belt. Guess he thought I was taking too long to get out. It's basically hanging on by a quarter inch of fabric and seriously needs replacing.
I figure it can't be that hard to replace myself, but I cannot see how to remove the molding/housing that hides the mechanics of it all. I've been searching for videos, but none of them are for the Ex. :
How I can remove the housing and change the belt myself. Looking for a video or pictures.....
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Have a growling noise in the rear when turning for the past two years. Getting worse so I assume I'm getting down to the metal on the clutches. Done all the other stuff like change the fluid and add friction additive. Have not pulled the cover and have the Mag Hytech diff that increases the capacity from 3 to 6 quarts of RP 75W-140 oil. Still does it. Just wanting to know if aftermarket clutch packs are available or is this a dealer only part. Ballpark how much are the clutch packs?
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