Ford Excursion :: 2003 - Started Shuttering And Then Stalled
Feb 18, 2014
Ok, my 2003 Ex Limited with 109,000 started doing the same thing today that it has done many times before. It started shuttering and then stalled. It comes out of nowhere and then the overdrive light flashes at the same time. I have had the coil packs replaced in the past, but not all of them at once. I also had the torque converter replaced last year as well. I am pretty sure that it's more coil packs that need to be replaced again. I'm sick and tired of replacing coil packs on this truck, it seems like they go bad very quickly. It's so bad I'm thinking about getting rid of this truck and getting something different.
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I am fairly new to powerstrokes, but have a general understanding how the 7.3l operates, and how the fuel system works.
The problem i am experiencing is a crank, no start. The truck has been great for the year and a half that i have owned it. Always cranked great and never any starting or running issues. One day upon cranking, i started the motor; it started normal running good for a minute until the motor suddenly started shuttering and then the motor shut off, happened rather quickly. The truck started up immediately after that and died....repeating the shutter until dead. Now the truck will not start.
Specs on truck:
2002 7.3l
230,000 miles
Manual transmission
Here's what i have replaced so far:
New parts include:
IPR (motorcraft)
ICP (motorcraft)
EBPV (napa)
CPS (napa)
IDM (reman)
Here are some of the diagnostic values i have collected during cranking: (FYI: i am a little confused on what the values mean and what they should be in order for the motor to start):
ICP: 2218 psi
ICP duty cycle: 41%
EBP: 265 kpa
battery voltage: 12.0
Rpm: 355
Things i have checked so far:
Oil is new and level is good.
WTS light cycles as normal.
Fuel bowl is full and over flows with cap off while cranking.
Fuel tank is above half.
Glow plug relay is good.
I was throwing a code for the PCM, but i removed the bully dog tuner and the code has since cleared.
HPOP oil is an inch below full.
I made a gauge set and dead headed HPOP yielding 1500psi.
Upon cranking i am seeing some smoke, i guess, but its kind of hard to tell from the drivers seat.
This is where i am at so far. I don't have a way to buzz test the injectors or tell if they are leaking past the orings. I have the valve covers removed, but i have been putting off pulling the injectors to replace the orings.
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Well It has been an expensive month for my Ex. New starter, Then a miss-fire. I ended up replacing all 10 plugs, and all 10 coils and I got ford coils.
Today I got in it, hit the ignition. It started for a split second and stalled. Went to go fire it up and well, its turning over faster then usual like its not getting any fuel or something. Now I am at the mercy of a local town shop, because the tow to the shop I run is about 450.00. I am thinking its the fuel pump... But we will know shortly.
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With normal acceleration my ex up shifts at about 50-55 mph and makes a shuttering noise and has a slight vibration briefly during the up shift. Could a tranny fluid change work?
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Three weeks ago I started my truck as usual in the garage and let idle for couple minutes. Backed out of garage and accelerated, then it stalled, started again and drove about 150-200 feet and stalled again. This repeated two more times and then I decided I better try and "limp" back to the house. It has been in at the service dept. for three weeks now and they first told me it was the fuel pumps. Now they say its the fuel transfer pump, don't know if there is a difference.
My service dept has no straight.
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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I've recently purchased a 02 F-150 4x4 with 135k showing. About a week after purchase 4 COP's were replaced to eliminate a skip that started the day I drove it home. After a few hundred more miles it started shuttering at take off, much the same as the trans shuttering usually in higher gears/speeds. Only does it briefly in 1st gear and occasionally it goes into 2nd, but stops immediately after shift. After about 10 miles it stops doing it and until the trucks sits awhile it stays gone. About the same time a popping sound started coming from the rear axle at slow speeds. It changes sides as you drive and turn, and sometimes goes away intermittently altogether. Also is it possible or probable the two are related ?
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I purchased an '03 V10 Excursion back in '13 with about 145000 miles on it. I've added another 30,000 in the last year and a half. It's been good but has started missing and has gotten to the point where it will shut off at times and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. The MIL has never lit from the missing. Twice after it cut off the MIL was lit with a speed sensor error.
I've purchased a BAFX Products Bluetooth OBD2 interface and I've tried a couple of different Android apps with it, right now I'm using Torque Pro. It says it's an OBD I system which I saw references to in the "Why your MIL doesn't turn on" thread. I'm seen references to using Mode 6, but everything I've read seems to indicate that's an OBD II feature.
The missing gets better and worse. Some days it will seem to be fine and then other days I have to keep it rev'ed up to keep it from dying while stopping for a red light.
When it dies, it dies while stopped in drive or reverse. It has also died a couple of times while moving in reverse while connected to a 3,500lb trailer. Every time it's died it has started right back up.
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I have a 2003 excursion v10, and am now having some problems. My son drove the truck the other day, and the trucks battery died because he left the lights on, so he jumped it. The next day when i went to drive the truck, every light on the cluster was on, the radio would not work only appearing when the menu or load cd button was pressed, the windows do not function, nor do any interior lights....
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I have a 2003 Excursion 4X4 V10 (6.8l) gas with 130K.
About six months ago, the truck started stalling at irregular intervals. The truck runs fine for weeks at a time, but will suddenly die. This happens at idle, and under power. After stalling, the truck usually starts back up, but there has been a few instances where I thought it sounded fuel starved. It has stalled as many as four times in a row (within 15 minutes), but shortly after it runs fine again.
I researched this board, and tried the following: cleaned the MAF, and replaced the IAC Valve.
But, it stalled again, so in late February I took it to the dealer; a AAA approved repair facility which means they guarantee the fix for two years.
The dealer claimed to have pulled a P0231 code. As a result, they replaced the fuel pump and assembly, along with the fuel filter.
The truck ran fine until two weeks ago, then it went thru a series of stalls again. In each instance, the truck started right up, and I drove it to the dealer.
The dealer took it in again and had it for six business days, but they could not replicate the issue. I suggested they test the PCM/fuel relay and the signal going to the fuel pump - they said everything checked out okay. No charge, the ticket remains open.
What could be causing this? I am not too good with electrical stuff; in fact, I know very little. Another member explained a way to test the signal at the time the truck stalls, but I am not sure if I could competently do it. I am thinking I need to start replacing part after part until it stops? I don't mind doing that, but would need to know which parts to focus on. Should I start with the MAF? I cleaned it, but do not know how to test it.
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Last night pulled in at rest stop and truck started surging then stalled put dieselkleen in and topped off tank but no luck eventually would not run at all. Had it towed to ford and this morning started right up running fine. Having them change fuel filters. Not sure what to do got to get back to drive?
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I have a 1998 F150 5.4L 4WD with 192k mi on it. Recently ( suddenly ) the vehicle began shuttering pretty alerting under light load at 35 - 45mph. The engine idle was intermittently smooth then rough. I quickly drove the truck home and ran a Trouble Code check with my Autoxray EZ-scan 4000 and found the two trouble codes P0302 and P0171. I have checked for vacuum hose cracks and found none.
Replaced the fuel filter, PCV valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor ( dirty ).
Right after cleaning the MAF sensor the idle remained smooth - but stumbling immediately when put in drive. Driving at 35-45mph still exhibits intermittent shuttering and occasional very short bursts of what feel like complete engine shut-down. This all is evident under light to moderate load .
At this point what would you recommend ? Replacing the O2 sensor bank #1 ? Or is there a possibility maybe the EGR valve is faulty - or another vacuum valve somewhere ? Intake manifold leak ?
The severe stumbling and very short complete engine shut downs would indicate that maybe the computer is failing or it's a fuel delivery issue? What rational steps to take next ?
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Started the car got out of the parking lot and drove a few feet till it stalled and rolled to a stop. It cranks but would not turn over all the way to drive. Called mechanic to let them know that it would be towed. They asked if it had gas. It has a 1/4 tank. Tow driver asked the same question. I'm wondering if the fuel pump could be the culprit or timing belt. If timing belt than I wonder if the engine could be the bad kind (interference). And of course cost. It has just over 90k miles and it has received regular oil changes but not the recommended services. I'm biking to the mechanic to drop the key off and thought that I would try it again and look under the hood, but I need to know what to look for.
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I have a 2003 Honda Pilot with 117,947 miles on it. When I reach 40 mph there is a shuttering sound that vibrates through the front floor boards. Took it to a Honda dealer and they could not duplicate the issue. It happened intermittently. Does not appear to be related to outside temperature or level of gas in tank. What the issue may be for the shuttering?
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I have a 2011 Mazda 2, 1.5L w/automatic trans. The car only has 1800 miles on it. The other day i was driving it when the car started to lose power and then stalled out. I coasted to a stop. When I tried to restart the car it idled roughly and only in the 200-300rpm range. When I put in gear it would stall out. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and then was able to restart the car with no issue. Since then I put on another 40 miles with no problem.
Before the car stalled I had driven it for about 30 miles with the first 15 miles on the interstate. It was 100+ degrees outside and I was running the air. I have taken the car to the Mazda dealer but I am concerned that they will not be able to locate the problem since now the car seems to be running fine. What could be causing this problem?
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES, with about 120,000 miles. On February 14th, Valentine's Day, my car broke down and has not functioned since then. Here's what happened, I was driving the car when it started to shake. It continued to shake for about 5 minutes, then it stalled. I was able to start he car again and it began shaking worse than before. Then it stalled again and it has not run since then.
The mechanic I've been working with has tried a new CAM sensor, replaced the computer and checked some of the electrical wiring. But nothing has worked. It's been almost 4 months and I am eager to get my car functioning properly right again.
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I have a 2005 Pontiac Grand Am that won't start. It was working fine. Then one day, it half started and stalled and won't restart. It will crank over and there is fuel getting to the injectors. If I shoot in starter fluid, it will start for a second and die.
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Trying to figure out if she jumped timing or maybe PCM went out. Car started dying going up hills then stalled out on level road. Found coil pack for #3 and #6 bad and replaced it. Other's arced ok so I left them alone. Didn't work for starting it so I checked the fuel pressure and got 37psi with key on and engine off.What would cause it not to even try to hit? Considering maybe it's jumped timing or the PCM is going out.
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I have a 2014 Toyota Sienna that I bought new last year that currently has 10,000 miles on it. I was driving home today when the car stalled, and smoke started coming out of the front. Firefighters came and took out the air filter, which burst into flames. They said they had never seen anything like it before. They looked over the air filter box thoroughly, said there was no more threat of fire damage but that it smelled like an electrical issue, and I had the car towed to the dealership. The dealer called me and said they "found" a cigarette butt and theorized that a lit cigarette was sucked into the air intake, which caused the fire, and furthermore, I would be responsible for paying for the damages, because it was an "outside event" that wasn't covered under warranty. I do not believe it was a cigarette, because the firemen found no evidence of one, and neither did I when I took pictures of the air filter box. So my question is, is this possible? If so, doesn't this seem like a pretty big design flaw? I'm concerned that the dealer is just making this up, so they don't have to pay for anything. If that's the case, how can I ever feel safe driving this car again?
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My 2003 Taurus wagon stalled and ran out of gas even though the gauge read 1/4 full. Called AAA they came and put a can of gas (less than 2 gals.) in and the car started. I went to the nearest gas station a block away and filled the tank. It took only 10 gals. That means that there was 3 or 4 gal. in the tank when it stalled. What gives?
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I have a 2003 Ford Taurus with over 117,000 miles on it. I use the car to get home from Texas to Florida about twice a year, but otherwise hardly touch it since I'm a college student. I've noticed lately that the car has been jumping when either waiting at a light or driving at lower speeds.
However, yesterday something strange happened. I was waiting at a light and the car started bucking more than usual. It was at night, so the dashboard lights started fading and the car stopped. The air and radio worked still after the car shut off, but the car wouldn't move. I tried cranking it, but it wouldn't crank. I pulled the keys out, cranked and it started it successfully. While it waited at the light it bucked violently. Then, when the light turned green it ran no problem like it normally does at normal speeds. When I got to my car parked at my place, I let it sit in the parking lot for five minutes running and it didn't buck once.
I am about due for an oil change. I haven't reached 3,000 miles yet, but my last change was in August. I've read a few other topics with similar problems on here and people have suggested transmission flushes. I did have my transmission fluid flushed at about 70,000 miles. Is it possibly due for another one?
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