I have a 2003 Ex with 7.3L. Occasionally my truck stalls while decelerating, typically when hot and going slow or coming to a stop. I had my friend who works for Ford put is on their diagnostic system and did a buzz test and found no issues. I replaces the CPS. What to look for to resolve?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
The car occasionally stalls while at a stop and the car is idling. The car is supposed to idle at 900RPM but is idling at 550RPM. What would be suggested to prevent the car from stalling?
View 7 RepliesEver since installing my Joe Z axle back exhaust.I get a popping sound when coming to a stop, especially if decelerating harder. I know this type of thing happens to bikes when you don't get them tuned after but I haven't read anything about Tuning the Lex. Is this normal? Are other guys with the aftermarket exhaust and intake having this same sound at times?
View 12 RepliesI have noticed that my car occasionally seems to take off extremely slow from a dead stop? It almost seems as if the traction control is engaging, but I am not taking off fast, and it has also happened at low speeds (10-20 mph)???? It feels like I'm towing a damn boat behind me......
The TSB for the transmission was performed last year sometime.
I am having trouble with my 1998 F-150...XLT Triton? I bought the wrong motor for it and installed it, turn out it's a 1999 Windsor 5.4
Problem is that it runs rough and stalls when I stop or rolling to a stop it would die.... It seems ok while cold, but when driven for 20 minutes or more it does it.
I have used original 4.6 harness as well as original spark plug coils and only replaced throttle body, oil filter holder thingy mount, exhaust manifolds are from 4.6.
When the throtle body was on the 4.6 I didn't have when the motor ran. Only misfire due to intake manifold leaking into the 3rd cylinder spark plug.(I thought it was a bad head gasket and changed in....installed the timing chain wrong and messed up the whole motor)
Also I broke a rear brake line and now it only has front brakes and smells like fried transmission oil.. This is my first truck and first truck accidental engine swap. Also the 5.4 Intake manifold is missing 2 coolant sensors and it's giving me the P0118 ECT Sensor Circuit High input...
So I have the warranty on my car still and I've brought my R into the dealership to have it checked out. They want to do more "diagnostic" work on it since they're not sure what's wrong with it.
The Issue: When coming to a stop, the RPMS will occasionally surge up to 1500ish RPMS, before slowly dropping down to the idle 800ish.
CEL has come on twice in the past month after a day or so of this happening (first time, CEL went away on it's own after 3-4 days, 2nd time, I had the code cleared at the dealership).
Code: P0507 - Idle Air Control RPM Higher Than Expected
I'm thinking it's the PCV valve failing, or in the process of it. The dealership says they think it's an air leak somewhere in the intake system...which would make sense to me if it was a static, constant problem, but it's not. Therefore, through deductive reasoning, I believe it to be a moving part or a valve or some sort that is failing to operate properly.
The car is 100% stock. I have to take it back into the dealership in a couple of days, and I would like to suggest they check the PCV valve if that is the general consensus on here rather than waste more time.
1999 f250 7.3 diesel stalls and pushes while coming to stop. So when I am stopping my truck it will try to keep accelerating then it will die. It has almost push me into a other car in front of me. I can put it in neutral to keep it from dying but it is idling just fine. When I put it back in drive it acts just fine not trying to push the truck.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L that is fully stock. Back in December the truck stalled while braking to a stop at a red light. No check engine light, no O/D light flashing, just died. I restarted it and it ran as if nothing happened. It ran fine for a few weeks and just when I am thinking it was an isolated incident it happened again, restarted, ran fine. It seems to be shifting normally through all gears, every once in a while it feels like it might shift from 2nd to 3rd a little pre-mature but that may just be my imagination. A month ago I felt a VERY slight jerk, almost unnoticeable, while pulling into a parking spot and the O/D light started flashing. A couple days ago (which was a little over a month since it last happened) it done it at 3 consecutive red lights. Been running fine since. Had the code read and it was P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio. I changed trans fluid in February and fluid level is fine.
View 3 RepliesI have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
I have a 2005 4.2 with 89k 4wd. The brake pedal occasionally goes farther towards the floor when coming to the end of a stop. I have bled the brake lines. All brake pads, rotors, and lines are good. Could it still be air in the lines?
View 13 RepliesMy engine (2011 gti mt ~2000mi) occasionally shudders when coming to a complete stop, just for the last second or two when I've thrown it in neutral. Is this something I should be concerned about, and to what extent.
View 23 RepliesEvery once in a while, while driving my 06 350 SRW at slow speeds, I hear a grinding noise coming from the left side of the truck. It is almost like a winding grinding noise if that makes sense. It will grind slow to a stop, and then I hear a clunk.
This is a very intermittent problem. The tires are completely shot on the truck, and I thought that would be it, but considering it is intermittent and the clunk I hear as I come to a stop I figured it could be it.
My 1993 Isuzu pickup with a 2.3L 4 cylinder has started to stall when I take my foot off the accelerator, it runs fine as long as I am giving it gas, but when I take my foot off the gas to stop at a light, it dies. It always starts right back up. Recently, it also stalls when I crank it unless I am giving it gas. It seemed like vacuum but the shop did a smoke test and could not find anything. Finally I cranked up the idle adjustment so that it idles around 2k RPM. So far so good, but obviously not the right answer.
View 1 RepliesJust purchased a 99 passat v6 and it has a low idle surge and stalls when coming to a stop.It runs fine until it heats up about 15 min. then it surges up and down and stalls.
View 1 RepliesWife's daily driver often stalls when coming to a stop. I changed MAP, TPS, Fuel filter; Reputable mechanic changed IAC, Plugs, Wires, Cleaned Throttle Body. We reset computer and relearned idle several times, ok for a while then starts stalling routinely again. What to do next? Owner, driver, wife is getting frustrated with the big money spent to no avail to date and I am worried it will stall at a dangerous time, when she is driving. She loves the car - has had it for 20 years and wants to keep it. I need it to be safe and reliable for her.
1992 Pontiac Firebird 3.1L, Auto, Air
I recently bought a 98 civic ex for my daily commute. I've had it for almost 3 months. Recently, it has started to stall occasionally when I come to a stop. I then have to put the car in park and turn the key to start it again. After that it seems to run fine. It has started to do this more and more frequentlyand I worry that eventually it just wont restart. I've also noticed that the idle is sometimes very low so that even when it doesn't stall it feels like it has.
View 5 RepliesI picked up an '08 R32 about two months ago and was having issues with the DSG and the dealership determined it was an issue with the mechatronic unit so they swapped it. That made a huge difference, but the downshifting is still very hard when coming to a slow stop (to the point where the car jumps), especially from 2nd to 1st gear. About half the time when I back out of a parking spot, then put the car in drive and start to give it gas, the car doesn't move for a few seconds as the RPM's build, then it slams into gear.
This all happens in drive (D). I haven't even used the other modes to know if it's happening there too. The dealership says they don't see any issues with it and there are no error codes and that there is nothing wrong with the car, but this is by far the worst transmission I've ever had in any car I've ever owned. I find it hard to believe that VW and Audi would put this in their higher end cars, so I can only assume there is something wrong with mine.
I have a 02 PSD, and sometimes after I start it up my radio and power windows do not work. I have a red "security" light on my Kenwood radio that turns on when the truck is off. That light keeps flashing after I turned on the truck so I know it's still getting power, but for some reason it thinks the truck is off, and the windows don't go down. Other days it works perfectly fine, sometimes the radio and windows will stop working after driving normal.
At first it was a routine where I knew they'd start working shortly. But today was the last straw, I drove into work with no radio and windows not rolling down for 30 miles. Of course after I park, I turn off the truck, turn it back on and everything comes on like nothing ever happened. What can be causing this, I have checked all the wiring, no kinks, cuts, nothing. I remember reading something about a relay that can cause this but can't find that info.
My 1992 Buick Century frequently shuts down when coming to a stop or slowing down to make a sharp corner. I'm always able to restart it. I thought it was a torque converter lockup problem, but my transmission specialist said the transmission is okay. Last month, after the car died completely, I had the crankshaft sensor and harmonic balancer replaced by Firestone. Could it be the same parts that malfunctioned? Or, could it be another issue?
View 12 Replies2001 f150 supercrew 5.4 triton... Recently did a tune up plugs,coil packs,filters,belt the whole 9 yards. The truck starts fine accelerates great and cruises down the road great without missing a beat.
But every now and then when you stop at a light or park it begins to idle down to the point where it almost stalls. When it does this i usually stab the throttle and it revs right up without missing a beat and idles fine for a a while then same thing all over again.
Could this be the idle air control? Seems like something simple due to the fact it runs down the road and accelerates like a big dog.