Ford Excursion :: 2003 - Driveline Vibrations Mainly On Highway Speed And When Slightly Press On The Gas
Jul 4, 2009
I have posted several times about my 03 Ex and it's driveline vibes- mainly highway speed and when slightly on the gas... Took it to a local 4 wheel drive shop that specializes in lifts. They jacked it up and I ran the X up to highway speed with the rear in the air. It was amazing how rough it is, even at 55mph. I hardly feel it in the vehicle at that speed while driving.
Anyway, they felt the vibration but where it is coming from. They said pinion angle looked fine and since I have a retubed driveshaft and rebuilt rear, they ruled that out. The owner has an 04 with a 6 or 8" lift and 37's and seems to know about Excursions.
I then took it to the local Ford dealer and had the service manager drive it. He strongly feels it is gear mesh with the ring and pinion. I am not totally convinced as the rear is quiet, gear wise. For that matter, my slip yoke has quite a bit of torsional slop, likely as much as the backlash on the ring and pinion but the driveshaft shop said that it is acceptable.
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My driveline has been vibrating for some time now. I changed out the rear u-joints with no improvement. I found the spline to be sloppy. I think I need a new driveshaft.
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So tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
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This is on an 04 Excursion, 4x4, 6.0 SPD. I have started experiencing a vibration at highway speed, 60-70 mph. After 70 it smooths out a little but still noticeable. I've replaced both rear tires and still have the issue. When I put my foot on the accelerator I can feel it more but as soon as I let off it drops off dramatically. I am thinking u-joints, which will be replaced this evening...
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When I press slightly on the accelerator just to get the truck moving and than let off the engine stays at the higher RPM typically just over a 1000. This only happens in drive not reverse and everytime I just slightly step on the accelerator. The truck only has 1K miles on it.
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Lifting 09-13 F-150 with the two piece drive shaft. I am getting a lot of vibrations at highway speeds(55mph or higher). I have a Pro Comp 6 inch lift that was installed while I was stationed in Alaska. I have the drive shaft spacer that goes on the drive shaft at the pinion. I also have a carrier bearing drop kit from BDS that I am currently experimenting with (trying to find the sweet spot). I am at a loss though because my truck is no longer fun to drive. I drive an hour to work one way and it blows that my truck feels as though it will rattle apart. I have tried doing all the research that I can find about this issue.
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I have a 1999 f250 SuperDuty with a nasty vibration That begins at about 70mph. The truck is an extended cab 5.4l Manual trans 4X4 with a one piece driveshaft (No mid bearing). The Vibration appears to me to be a driveline vibration that is speed dependent. It is the same in gear, out of gear clutch in or out. I have replaced the wheel bearings/hub assemblies on all four corners, completely rebuilt and balanced the driveshaft the driveshaft, removed the front driveshaft, put brand new tires mounted and balanced on all four corners, new clutch, had the flywheel turned and balanced, and replaced the transfer case output bearings. Pinion bearing feels tight and does not leak.
Also the Input in the trans felt tight when i had the trans out. The truck had the vibration when i bought the truck and still vibrates after i have done all of this work. i did not change the motor mounts because they looked fine. when i bought the truck the tabs on the extension housing holding the trans-mount to the trans were broken so i make a huge "exhaust clamp" to straddle the trans and bolt to the trans mount.
After driving the truck up north last weekend the truck seems to shake going taking of at lower rpm as if the motor mounts and trans mounts are bad. I guess my questions is can a bad trans mount, motor mounts cause this Vibration at highway speed. if so is there a way to fasten the trans-mount to the extension housing without replacing the extension housing. If not what else can cause this issue?
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I've got a pretty nasty driveline clunk when going over 40mph and letting off and reapplying the accelerator. The way I'd describe it is: when I let off, it feels like something clunks forward, and when I get back on it, it feels like it clunks backwards.
So far I've had the U-joints replaced, replaced the tranny mount, greased the slip-yolk several times, and just changed the rear diff oil (and found no broken teeth or excessive wear in the gears) and it still does it.
Since I don't have a sig:
2001 Ex 4x4 7.3L PSD
5" RC Lift (but the clunking was present before the lift)
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My 2003 Camry makes a a grinding noise when the wheel is turned even slightly left. The noise is present at any speed, and is the same volume no matter what. I'm fairly certain its coming from the driver side front wheel. I changed that CV axle in January so hopefully that's not the issue.
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I have an occasional issue when pressing the gas pedal while stopped or at low speed the car hesitates and slightly kicks. It doesn't seem to happen at high speeds. The auto mechanic I took it to said he is getting a read that it might be the thermostat. My temperature gauge has not moved above normal. The auto guy says they need to start with the thermostat and see where we are with the problem at hand afterward. This does not make sense to me. Maybe the electronic read is right and the thermostat needs replacing, but how can this affect my occasional hesitation problem?
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I have a 1999 Grand Am 3.4L engine that has 227,000 miles on it. For quite a while now I've needed to press the gas pedal slightly in order for the car to start. Once it's started it idles fine. The car isn't throwing any codes and I've replaced quite a few things (not necessarily due to this...). Here's a list of what's new:
1) Camshaft Position Sensor
2) Plugs & Plug Wires
3) Mass Air Flow Sensor
4) PCV Hose
5) Fuel Filter
I've read about the Idle Air Control sensor, but I figured if there was something wrong with this it would throw a code and I'd have a dummy light on the dash (which there are none). What are some things I can look for to try to troubleshoot this issue?
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A few weeks ago I hit a large pothole while going around a slight curve at about 55 mph. I heard a loud pop and the truck jumped to the left. About a week later I starting noticing some vibrations. It happens when I'm going more then 35 or so and when I hit a bump or unsmooth surface and it will keep vibrating until I hit another bump, the other way to make it stop is to slow down to less then 20. I can feel the vibration pulsing less as I slow down utility it stops meaning it's definitely speed related not engine related.
So I took it to the shop. The found the passenger side front (the part that hit the pothole) shock was leaking, upper ball joint was toast (a lot of play) and the outer tie rod was loose (not as bad as the ball joint but bad enough). And the bump stop I installed about 7 or 8 months ago was gone.
I picked up the Ex yesterday after having everything replaced (did the lower ball joint as well, I figured might as well once it's all taken apart). While driving today, the video ration is still there. So I pulled into the nearest gas station and took a look at the front end. I noticed the driver side hub is still locked (even though it's on auto, probably have a leak in the vacuum line somewhere). So I pulled both auto hubs just for the heck of it and kept on driving. Now I barely feel the vibration.
So the question is, is my front differential causing the vibration? I don't believe it's the hubs, when it was at the shop I personally (and the mechanic) shook the wheels right and left and up and down and besides for the play in passenger side wheel from the ball joint, everything else seemed tight. I recently did the u joint on the same wheel and the stabilizer bar bushings. This is my work vehicle so when it really slows me down when it's in the shop.
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I have a '97 4.6L 4x4. I've had a few issues recently and am at wits end.
Symptoms: while pulling a boat at highway speed, the engine engine just died. After waiting about 20 minutes for a buddy to show up with a tow rope, it started up and ran fine...until I got home (10 miles). I parked and after approx 5 minutes of idling it died again. No CEL, and found no codes when scanned. 15 minutes pass, it fires up and works fine.
The next day, I hook the boat up again, dive to the lake, go fishing, drive home. Everything was fine. I unhook the boat and drive to work. Half way there my voltage gauge starts falling and 5 miles later all of my gauges end electric stuff dies. I drive two more miles to work and strange beep starts coming from under the dash on the passenger side (I think). After my 12 hour shift it starts and I start my 10 mile commute. Half way through I lose electrical power again but make it home. Now it doesn't have the juice to turn over.
Are these problems related, and what are the possible causes and cures? On an unrelated note, what's the easiest way to replace a rear leaf spring shackle?
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I have a 2001, 2wd, XLT, Super Crew with 4.6L and 180000Kms. I am the 2nd owner and have owned it for roughly 6 years. Since owning it I have towed the following: a 1500 Boat, 1000lb full utility trailer, a 2700lb boat, and most recently (Last summer) a 3500lb dry weight/4000lb full 22 foot camper trailer. None of these items ever caused me any problems til mis summer with the camper.
I have always got check engine lights for the stupid coil packs. It seems like I would replace one and a different one would go. I was camping one weekend a short hour distance from my home when I pulled onto the main highway and began to accelerate up to highway speed but it was feeling sluggish picking up to 100kph. When I merged onto the highway it was not a flat piece of ground and was a small grade of a hill, but nothing big. Before getting to the top I started to hear a strange noise, almost like a rattling, and the check engine light started to flash. After breaching the hill, it picked up speed, the light went out, and everything seemed fine.
This happened twice last summer with no other problems. At the end of the summer I once again had a check engine come on...I had blown out a plug, had it fixed and replaced 2 more COPs but still had codes showing for CC, M, F, O, OH, C, E and EV. My reader also said Freeze Frame, and MIL on. I had the truck in in Nov/Dec for an emissions test and it was given a conditional pass due to codes reading but no Check Engine light at this time.
I want to keep this truck...I will be towing the camper again, buit I'm considering getting a different truck. As it is I know I already have to have air bags installed in the rear to level out the load when towing. Hopefully that will cut back on some of the acceleration drag. At present time I have a check engine on...I'll check it again and post what its reading but most likely the same stuff.
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My truck is a 2002 F-150 4.2l standard trans. I noticed it was lacking a little power one day and the next day a little more so,Then the third day I was heading out to the Doctor (50 miles away) I noticed the truck was slowly and gradually getting worse to where it was hard to even do the speed limit on the highway and the light started blinking so I headed straight to the nearest Advance and had them pull the codes and it gave us 172 bank 1 too rich and 174 bank 2 too lean I replaced the two top o2 sensors (advance sold me)same thing....... plugs, wires, coil, air and fuel filters are all new... checked the PCV hoses all look good, I'm a cancer patient and need my truck for Dr's and treatments and no money to randomly buy parts, I have seen people pointing to intake gaskets and isolator bolts... Does this motor have a track record of this being a common problem?
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My 2000, F150, 4X4, 4.6V8, five speed manual idles great and sounds great and throwing no codes. It doesn't have a lot of zip, but it really never has, at least since I bought it at almost 60K miles.
I've never towed much of anything with it until recently. I started towing a 6 1/2' X 10' trailer with a 1,600 pound side by side or a 1,300 pound mower with a large grass collector. Both of these loads have lots of wind resistance.
The lack of power is REALLY showing up pulling these loads at highway speed. Sometimes, even on pretty flat ground, the cruise control will hold the throttle on the floor at 60 or 65 MPH and it can't pick up speed.
I have maintained the truck well, but there is something amiss. It is due a fuel filter, so I will change that. I've never replaced the O2 sensors, so I'm considering replacing the front ones.
I am thinking about using a vacuum gauge to see if I can detect plugged cats. As I recall, there are two on each bank. I have a scanner, so I was thinking about monitoring front and rear O2 sensors and see if I can get the 100 degree difference that indicates a properly functioning converter.
I'm thinking of cleaning the throttle body.
Something else that is odd about this truck. Being a stick shift, it does not want to go all the way back down to idle speed unless the vehicle is stopped. For illustration of what I'm saying, you can kick the transmission in neutral and coast, and it will stay above idle speed until the vehicle stops, THEN it will idle down normally. I have always thought that this might be because so few manual transmission trucks were built that this is something in the chip for an automatic that they didn't take out for the manual.
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I have recently picked up an older F350 2WD 7.3 DRW Lariat. the price was right higher miles but hey it is a 7.3, overall in very good shape.
So the issue at hand is the truck runs great most of the time and puttering around at city speeds you would never know there is any issue;
Get the truck out on the highway set the cruse at 70 to 72 and if you hit a rise in the road or other reason to slightly accelerate the truck chugs and bucks. For lack of a better description it goes chug chug chug, if you accelerate harder to downshift it goes away or if you back off the throttle it goes away. This happens with cruse on or off, a steady foot on the pedal will cause this as well.
I have also noticed that when you let off the throttle the sound the truck makes de-fueling is just very different and "off" sounding . Not sure how to describe it but it sounds funky ... clearly not right when compared to other 7.3 or my 6.0 truck.
What I have done, :
1. Had the truck scanned with an AE and a snap-on scanner both show no codes ran injector tests no contribution errors, not even in # 8.
2. Changed fuel filter
3. Changed Oil and Filters ( tried both full synthetic Rotella and Dino oil looking for a difference )
4. Cleaned out the fuel filter housing just in case.
5. Confirmed injector O-Rings are not leaking
This feels like a fuel issue, my next thought was start looking at fuel pressure under load at speed to see if there was a drop when this is happening ?
Is there a way to test fuel pumps in this truck ? Maybe a clogged pick-up screen ? Where do I start looking next ? I have reasonable mechanical skills but don't know this motor very well, this doesn't seem like a CPS issue..
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Continuing to find little easter eggs with my new to me 01 v10 excursion.
This issue is a bad vibration that feels like it's coming from the middle of the truck. It starts when I hit a bump and usually goes away when I hit another, but not always. At first I thought it was the road, then the transmission, but now with it starting when I hit a bump, I'm thinking a U-Joint on the driveshaft.
I considered the front axle u-joints but it doesn't matter which wheel I hit the bump with, be it a pot hole or man hole cover or seam in the road.
I'm not sure where to start. I'm doing the trans flush tomorrow and dropping the transfer case to see where that's leaking, so I'll be under there to try and figure it out.
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The truck, 2001 X, 7.3l diesel 4x4, with a couple of enhancements. (Link to original post of truck... [URL] ... )
Here is the issue, on this mornings drive to work the front end started to make a lot of noise. The noise (which was minimal) was originally thought to be caused by a front wheel bearing that was just replaced, Today it got really loud, and the steering wheel started to shake as well.
Pulled over, disengaged the hubs and the noise and vibrations went away. First thought would be that the U-joints need to be checked and possibly/probably replaced. That would be the simple solution. However, if it is not the u-joints, what else could it be?? Issue with the front differential???
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Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
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2013 SF Limited AWD = long base, 41K miles
Slow speed sharp turns left and right taking off from a stop I hear a thumping/light popping in the driveline. Seems like it could be a differential issue?
I also hear an unusual noise while accelerating in a straight line.....under throttle from a stop, it sounds like a rapid chirp on and off, every other second. Almost like a valve tick. The noise is heard under acceleration in gear, not when cruising at light throttle. I put the transmission in neutral while rolling, revved up the engine and the noise is not heard. Only happens when in gear and accelerating.
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