Ford Excursion :: 2003 - Contribution Code With 8 New Injectors
Oct 29, 2015
I have an 03 X with 225k on it. I put 8 new injectors in it because I was leaking fuel into the engine oil. I got them from dieselogic from ebay in Jacksonville FL. 4 of those were leaking and they warrantied them. Then 2 of them were getting contribution codes and they would not warranty them because they said I had fuel contamination. They did not send them back to me either. I got 2 more from advance auto parts. They were working fine. For a little while. So now here is where the problem is. I was getting a cylinder 1 contribution code. So I swapped cylinder 1 and cylinder 3 injectors. That code is gone now.
Now I have cylinder 4 contribution code. I swapped 4 and 6. Still have cylinder 4 code. When the engine is cold it runs perfect. When I drive it for about a mile or so and come to a stop sign it's still running perfectly. While I'm at the stop sign it's like someone flipping a switch and then the misfiring starts. And no codes until the "switch" is flipped. Ficm measures 48 to 48.5 at all times. I don't see any chafing of wires. And I forgot to mention that I had a leaking fuel into the oil again. Ran another dye test but did not see any signs of leaks this time. But that was after I swapped injectors around. Could have been leaking from the orings. I can't can't figure out this misfire. So I was thinking compression test next but why does it run fine when cold?
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2003 f350 dually. Fully bulletproofed about 10k miles ago. Everything was running great for about 5k miles. A friend of mine got stuck and I went to pull him out. Got him out but got on it really hard...never overheated or anything.
Next day truck throws a cyLinder 5 contribution balance code. Ran ok but idled rough. Pulled injector and put a used one from a running truck in it. Code went away and runing fine for a few weeks. Took a long trip from FL to Texas, and on the way home same code occurred but idle was not as bad. I would clear the code and it would be fine for a few hundred miles, then would show up again. Made it home, still was driving around town a little with the code only showing sometimes. A couple blocks away from home taking off from a stop sign lost all power and motor shut off. Turned out the Injector o ring blew and hydrolocked the motor.
So now, ordered all new 155cc30% injectors , 58v ficm and new oem injector harness. Installed and Drove the truck to Illinois. After about 700 miles I noticed a little rough idle and had a cylinder 4 cont code. Made to Illinois and back to fl. At fl line I had cyld. 4 and 5 codes now. Cleared and cyld 4 was gone but 5 stayed. Got home and balance test showed 4 and 5 bad injectors. Sent them off to be fixed just got them back in. Truck started fine, smooth idle, ran for about 10 miles and cyld 5 code come back and so does the rough idle. I'm at a loss now.
Will be doing compression test tomorrow. Other than a rough idle truck runs flawless, will roast the tires and pull anything hooked to it. No hot starts, no symptoms of anything else. Possibly a problem with the oil rail feed on that cylinder? Main ficm harness? Bent pushrod?
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I have a 2004 F250 with a powerstroke 6.0. I have done the egt delete and oil cooler upgrade. Last weekend I did head gaskets, arp studs, new heads, injector o rings, updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, glow plugs, glow plug harnesses, water pump, and exhaust gaskets. After everything was done and truck was primed and started it ran really rough. I drove it a little to possibly purge any air and it still ran rough and I got a code p0275 for cylinder 5 contribution. I removed valve cover and oil rail and swapped injector 3 and 5. 5 was covered in fuel. After reinstalling oil rail I cranked engine over and saw cylinder 5 intake valves were not moving. Removed rail and rockers. Pulled push rod and it was bent. Installed new push rod a and reassembled. Crank engine over to verify all rockers were moving. Reinstalled valve cover and started truck. Truck ran great. Cleared codes and test drove. After test drive truck sounded like it was missing so I checked the codes again and p0275 was back! I know at this point I need to check the harness but any other possibilies you may know of? FICM voltage it good at 48v and oil pressure reads good as well.
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I have a code for #6 low contribution and a thumping noise out the exhaust. When I turn number 6 injector off the popping/ thumping goes away. Truck is straight piped and deleted. It started doing this after getting on it hard to get on the high way. Sounds like beating an empty pop bottle on something
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I have an 04 f350 with an 03 6.0 motor. Truck started running very rough a two weeks ago. Checked codes and found p0274 and p0275. Both codes are for cylinder 5. I replaced #5 injector and truck ran like normal for a few days then began to miss again when operating temperature hits about 187+. It will show code p0275 once hot as it misses. When cold runs fine, starts fine. No smoke. Could I have put In a bad injector? It was purchased from AutoZone...
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My 2002 F450 7.3 won't start unless the heater is plugged in for 2-3 hours+ regardless of the weather. Today I did a cylinder contribution test and at first cylinder 2 got code P0266 (Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault) and cylinder 7 got code P0281 (Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault). I drove it 10-15 miles and did another test. Only Cylinder 2 got code P0266. No error on cylinder 7. I've used RevX with some success before, so I'm tempted to try it again see if it clears up the error on 2. My question though can injectors be an explanation for my hard start situation? (I've already replaced EGR, ECP, Fuel Filter, CPS and glow plugs seem to be fine also).
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#2 contribution/glow plug/injector code ????? Harness looks good. What's the malfunction?? Runs rough. Never seen those 3 codes together.
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I have an 03 ex with 03 motor. I use torque pro all the time and periodically check for any codes. Well, I got P0278 but no check engine light. It does seem to start a little different than our 05 with 04 motor. It sounds like it just doesn't fire right away or like it turns over and then decides to start. It doesn't make the destinctive sound at the end of cranking when it starts. I hope that makes since. I could tell it sounded different, that is why I checked for any codes. It also seems to run just fine down the road and at idle. Where to start or what to look for?
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My truck is currently stock and recently started making a knocking noise louder than it usually does. I researched and have found the injectors can make a knocking noise when not performing correctly. I took it to a local shop who hooked it up to a snap on scan tool and ran some tests. It passed the Buzz test but continually failed the contribution test on cylinder 8. I'm going to go home and remove valve cover and unclip the injector to see if the noise goes away. I'm sure hoping it does as an injector by the looks of things is definitely the cheaper option. I'm scared because if I was listening to a gas powered truck and heard the sound my trucks making I would assume it was a lower end noise. My truck only has 148,000 miles....
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The X 6.0 was running rough at 1700 rpm and cold it barely ran at all. The dealer did full compression test - pass with no issue. Fuel pressure regulator was bad, they replaced it. They also replaced the fuel filter. That didn't work, so back to the dealer and they diagnosed that the injectors were not optimal for about half of the cylinders. The recommendation was to replace the injectors and they gave me their quote...time for some DIY.
So, I dive in; order and install Warren rebuilt stock injectors (new down tubes and dummy plugs as well). I also went ahead and replaced both oil cooler and screen as well as the EGR cooler with an aFE improved design. I also noted the Turbo was throwing oil into the intake so I replaced the turbo with the PowerMax. Additionally, I replaced the FICM with a BulletProof unit set at 53V. Heck, I went ahead and installed an XPD coolant filter system as well.
Got the X back up and running this weekend and she runs nice, smooth and with authority. So far so good.
This morning I start her up, notice that she isn't running as smoothly. I drive and now the X is not running with that real authority (not as much power but she runs) and I note that some roughness is once again apparent at 1700 RPM.
Obviously, all of this work didn't take care of the root of the problem. What else could cause this issue? Will Rev-X take care of it (I'll get some of that ASAP)? How did she run so well for a few miles and now the problem is coming back?
I have the PHP FICM programmer and am looking to install that next but I doubt that will eliminate the root problem. I don't want to get frustrated so I'm trying to approach this systematically.
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1988 F250 351 5.8
I've worked for months on this truck and I now have it in the shop. The truck shows a 41 code and has a lean miss at idle that get worse during acceleration and cruise. The injectors were refurbished 6 months ago and the ECM was replaced 3 months ago. All sensors are new and within specs. Fuel pressure is good and there are no vacuum leaks.
The mechanic has verified that the condition is not electrical related. The O2 sensor will react if carb cleaner is sprayed into the throttle but other wise shows constantly lean. He's now checking all pins at the computer for any off condition. He is suspicious of the refurbished injectors. I'm wondering if the computer somehow went out again. Which way to go or what/how next to test?
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I am trying to find out how many o2 sensors are suppose to be on my 2003 excursion? I am getting two codes on my OBD reader, an "o2" and an "o2 heater" code flashing...... I have replaced both the o2 sensors i found, both were at the exhaust manifolds.
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I bought my Excursion about 3 months ago. So far I've replaced the Alt and battery all because it randomly die on me. I guess no the issue isnt the Alt or battery but an error P0231.
P0231 Low Voltage Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit
[URL]....
I've replaced what I thought was the fuse but not 100 percent sure. I cleared the error message and now it's still doing the random turn off. Now I'm getting an error P1000. Tried google search with very little success.
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I just bought an 03 Excursion 3 months ago and it has 104,000+ miles on it. I was driving to the lake to do a little night fishing this past Saturday. It ran fine up to me parking the truck to unstrap my boat. I noticed it start to idle rough and thought nothing of it. Started to back the boat down the ramp and got almost all the way to the water and it died. It restarted immediately but died several times trying to make it back up the ramp (with boat still in tow). No service engine light or anything for about an hour or so. Thought maybe I had gotten hold of some bad gas so I put in a bottle of sea foam and gas dry with no change to how it ran. Made it back home and the next day tried starting it again and it still idled rough and would die when put in gear. A friend brought over a code reader and got a P0149 which I've learned is a fuel timing error. Could it be the fuel pump or the solenoid on the fuel pump?
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My prius is almost mint, with 226k on it. I just recently got a code from it P0302, so I thought I'd check the fuel injectors, I took them out and cannot reinstall them without them leaking all over.. I removed and replaced new orings on the top and cranked down the bolts really hard and still a bunch leaking. Is there a trick I should know about?
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97 F150 4x4 XLT 5.4L... I had two cylinders misfiring, removed COP, injectors and plugs. Reinstalled all parts and reconnected all sensors. Now I am not getting fuel to the injectors. Double checked for disconnected wires and hoses, checked all fuses and relays, also the inertia switch. Fuel pump does not hum when key turned on. Tried hitting bottom of gas tank. My question is, before I pull the tank again, is there something under the hood I may be missing. It does get quite crowded at the rear of the motor.
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So we begin w/ another saga for the 7.3l Excursion......
A few months ago it started running like crap, real crap and blowing white smoke like crazy. Well I knew this from a previous episode and I had a bad or multiple bad injectors. I tried to trouble shoot which one it was and maybe just replace the one or two....but no it was worse than that. So Life was really busy it kinda got shoved aside until now.
I pulled all the injectors and had them rebuilt locally ..nice. They ended up being with mech for a couple of weeks because he went out of town...no problem. Well this entire time my rig was untouched and when I got them back #7 was full of water.....great, bad injector cup. #7 was the only one, the rest were dry. So I drained the radiator and the oil and left it overnight to completely drain and installed the new injector cup in #7. Next day I refilled via both heads because the valve covers were off, 4 gallons of oil and a new oil filter. Cleared the cylinders via the glow plugs and commenced to trying to get her started. Nada......just cranks, killed the batteries, recharged over night and left the box on them and still nada....but the oil was still very milky at this point.
So tonight I pulled all the injectors back out and drained the oil again, still a lot of water. This time I sucked out the HPOP reservoir and got a more milky water/oil out and I'm leaving everything open all night.
In the am I plan to check my overflow water level in the hopes it remains at the same level...if so I will reinstall all 8 injectors and refill the motor w/ 4 gallons of fresh oil and try again.
Oh, while I was attempting get her started I put my buddies Snapon scan tool on it and I got the p1271-p1278 codes w/ the buzz test. (low side to high side open circuit between idm and injector) So I found the pin test with everything connected at the idm pigtail and everything tested good. So I'm back to my not so fresh oil anymore is the culprit to it not starting.
Am I missing something here?
Also....another fun filled fact is that I seem to have a fuel leak somewhere at the rear passenger side. Every time my fuel bowl fills up, if I shut the key off it will drain down. Sometimes I can see fuel dripping quite vigorously onto my starter but I can not see where it is coming from. I have while it was dripping ran my hand along the head and the fuel lines and can not find where it is coming from. Any thoughts as to where in the hell this fuel could be leaking from?
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This is a 1999 with 200k on it. It has a really bad hpop so valley is full of oil. Haven't removed the HPOP to inspect the non serviceable plug or the hpop gasket. doing that this week. This truck I just bought and it has aftermarket injectors so dont know the miles in injectors. once the oil leak is resolved I can then give the injectors the once over to make sure theyre okay. Question is how much of a stream of oil should I expect to see as the engine runs?
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So I got all 8 injectors upgraded and excited when I get them back I put them all in in kind of a rush. And in that rush I left the cylinders full of excess oil. So obviously when I tried to start it hydro locked. Angry at myself. I kept trying to crank hoping it would fire and just shoot that oil out. Nope, so I went back to taking all the glow plugs out and firing it all back out. Put it all back together then tried to fire her up. Took a minute but she started and I let it run for a while. Hit the gas a few times and then it died. Couldn't get it started again. It would just crank, I checked the icp and ipr and the icp did not build above 35 psi and the ipr was at 98.04% so I just figured the o rings blew out when it hydro locked.
So I took it all back apart put new o rings on, took my time and put it back together right double checking everything. Got it all back together and went to start it, it would just crank around 160-170 rpms, battery voltage at 10.6 icp built up to 140 but now it won't build past 40. Ipr still goes to 98.04. The engine ran just fine prior to injector change, I put a new upgraded hpop prior to injector change, new ipr, icp, cps. Everything checks out, but it will not build oil pressure while crank I've killed a set of batteries then went all out and spent 350 at napa for some optima red tops. I did notice the cylinder 7 injector is the AE injector. It suppose to be in cylinder 8, idk if that's affect the oil pressure building up?
But as far as I know, I'm not building oil pressure. So idk if the hydro lock could have ruined something to keep it from building oil pressure?
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Are there more parts that i would have to get when putting in new injectors in my 2000 f250?
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When doing my last spark plug change I noticed that the electrical plugs to the fuel injectors seemed really loose. The plastic tabs on the harness plugs don't even lock onto the injector plug. Its actually amazing that they don't vibrate loose or stay electrically connected. The plugs are not cracked or damaged that I can see. Is this a problem? I feel that I should replace the plugs with something that has more of a positive "grip" to the FI plug....
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