Ford Excursion :: 2003 - Burned DVDs Won't Play
Jul 30, 2007
I have a 2003 Excursion with the factor DVD player. I am having trouble getting copied DVD's to play. I keep getting the "Bad Disk" message. I have tried both +R and -R formats and I am burning Maxell brand media with the "One Click" software. BTW the disks play on my wife's 2007 honda.
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I removed my drift shaft to get balanced since I have felt a vibration at 55-60 mph. After removing the driveshaft I noticed there is some play in the output shaft when I grab a hold of the yoke on the transmission. The play is a slightly up and down. If my memory serves me right that should not be. Seal is not leaking but need diagram of this yoke off the output shaft. I know in past on other vehicles there is sometimes a crush washer. Also what is the torque specification for that output shaft nut?
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I have had a Clicking noise on my 2000 x 4x4 since 6 months coming from the front right side tire noticeable over rough roads or over bumps and I went on a journey starting with ford dealer to almost all well recognized service centers and every body says your front suspension is ok and no one seems to know where it is coming from. I thought it was my hub bearing since it fails almost every year but when I was changing the bearing, I noticed a big Excessive play in axle.
See video : My AXLE Shaft - YouTube
Also I noticed oil mixed with grease the grease is prawny with a reddish sort of color or that is some thing else.
See photos ....
Any way after replacing the hub Bearing with a used one and butting every thing together I went on a test drive. Noticed that the vehicle drive line is not right the car seems to wonder and the noise still there so i didn't get far i came right back and park my x then a funny burned oil smell was present.
Is it some thing i did wrong or is it bad situation gone worst ?
Items Checked Or Replaced In The Last 4 Months ( trying to fix)
Tie Rods. Ok
ball joints. Ok
suspension front and rear. Ok
Front stabilizer bar. Ok
control arm bushings. Ok
stabilizer bar bushings Ok
steering linkage. Ok
brake pads. A new front set installed
Rotors . Both front changed with oem parts
body mounts + sub-frame mounts. Some replaced
shock absorbers . New 4 set installed
- Rear Monroe 911176 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
- Front Monroe 911175 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
tires. Replaced with a new set off four
Hub Bearing. Second hand (that's when I saw it)
Spare Parts waiting list (Ordered):-
O ring ord part # 4C3Z-1K106-AA
(knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB).
and some other dust seals which i can't recall.
I am looking for how to fix axle play and get red of the noise. (this is a video from you tube for clearance)....
F250 wheel bearing, is this bad or not? - YouTube
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I've got a light burned out on my dashboard. No big deal (it still gets some light from an adjacent bulb) but just out of curiosity: How big a nightmare would it be to replace a lightbulb in the dash of a 2001 F-250 XL?
Do you have to pull the motor/trans and lift the cab off the frame like I've been told you need to do to replace a heater core? Local mechanics laughed at that job and told me to get some stop leak...
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I just noticed a wire burned in half on the front side of the intercooler plenum. See picture below,
Here is the left side showing the green wire stub going into the wiring harness on the front side of the intercooler plenum,
And this is the right side showing the wire going into the air intake duct between the turbo and the air filter,
I don't think it's been in this condition very long.
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2003 Ford Crown Victoria with only 49K miles. This was my great aunt's and this car sat a lot(no garage) She has passed and I need to sell but the radio won't play. CD and cassette are fine. Radio station appears on display but all I get is static. If I wiggle the wires on the back windshield I get reception sometimes but not often. I have taken wires off and cleaned terminals but that did not improve reception at all.
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I have a 2002 Extended Cab F150 2WD 5.4L 3.55 Open. I have recently begun to notice a clunking or "sounds like something mechanical shifting" when I come to a stop or take my foot off the brake before accelerating (as in, when the light turns green.) The shocks are shot, so, some of the noise when I stop is likely due to bounce back, but the noise when I take my foot off the brake is clearly not related to suspension relaxation.
I jacked up the front, passenger corner and checked the wheel play. I immediately noticed wheel play in both 12/6 and 9/3 hand positions. First thought was obviously ball joints, but when I looked more closely I found that the steering knuckle itself was not moving at all. (I only had one corner jacked up, so, the torsion bar might have been stabilizing the steering knuckle to some degree, but...nonetheless, the wheel play is still there.)
So, the wheel play is between the wheel/rotor, and the steering knuckle. To me this suggests wheel bearings. But, I'm not sure how much play is allowable between the wheel and the spindle. Should the rotor/wheel move at all with respect to the spindle/steering knuckle? How much is okay? Does movement suggest I need to replace the wheel bearings? (I installed the rotor and wheel bearings myself last year.)
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I have tried downloading music from CDs and DVDs onto the HDD included in my car's Fender audio system, but can't seem to get it to work. I read the owner's manual several times and repeatedly followed the steps for burning CDs onto the HDD - with no luck!
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I have a 2010 Premium with rear DVD (Lexus) installed. Almost all DVDs stop playing...just with normal DVD wear and tear no major scratches or gouges or dirt. They play in all my other non-vehicle machines with no problems. They have already replaced the first player and the second is actually worse. Also, it will non play and DVDs that I have burned without stopping after about 2 minutes into the movie...again...they play on all my other machines.
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I have 2014 gx 460 . I want control rear DVDs system in the font seat . But in screen don't show rear system . How can I do ?
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Is there an issue/TSB with 03 Camry regarding the steering?
I never drove it much until my 96 Corolla died out, and a couple of years back I started to noticed a little play in the steering wheel that is getting more noticeable.
When I took it to the stealership they told me no TSB but we could suggest a lubricant pack.
When I go over bumps in the road now I can sometimes now her a small click sound.
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I am working with a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with rear heat/ac, sunroof, and Homelink. I need to remove the overhead console to replace burned out map lights. I cannot determine how to remove the console.
The shop manual has instructions for 2 styles of overhead consoles but not the one in this vehicle. Those 2 styles have a sun glass or garage door opener compartment that you open to access some screws.
This console has the map lights at the front, the controls for the rear ac/heat in the middle, and a panel for the sunroof switch and Homelink buttons at the rear. There is no room for a compartment that opens.
I can get the front portion loose by pulling it down off the clips. The back seems to held in by screws. I do not want to apply much force to avoid damaging anything.
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My air conditioner had a problem a few years ago. While idling in the driveway on a really hot day the clutch on the compressor froze and nearly burned the belt off of the pulleys before I killed the AC. I continued to drive the vehicle for several months but without using the AC.
Fast forward 5 years (almost) and I just finished installing a new engine and putting a shift kit in the transmission.
Remembering the original AC problem I know that I need to get this fixed. I noticed while checking all the engine functions that the compressor clutch is not stuck any more (maybe all the oil leaking onto it worked with this).
As it stands now, the AC seems to cycle normally but it doesn't get cold and probably needs a charge at a minimum. Is it possible that the compressor clutch will work fine or is it a disaster waiting to happen? What else should I check in the AC system?
I'm not against replacing the whole system or any single part of it. I am also not sure whether the AC uses R12 or R134. How can I tell?
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A cab light (OEM) has burned out. I'd like to replace it. What style/part number bulbs are used?
The closest tangential reference I can find is to 194, with additional references to 168 and 912. A Google Image Search of makes it seem like I'm getting warmer.
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I bought this truck used and the guy said it needed a new blend door actuator so I bought a new one off eBay I installed it, plugged the wire back in and turned on the key and it started smoking, it burned up. The wires have been cut before and have been butt connected back together. I notified the place I bought it from and they sent me back a new one but I'm scared it will do it again.
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I need diagnosing why my A/C isn't working. I'm wondering if my clutch staying engaged has burned up my compressor before or after my clutch went bad. I don’t think it’s the air gap issue because I took my clutch off and checked and there were zero washers. I guess somehow I re-installed it with no washers maybe the last time I fooled with it.
I've only knew to check the air gap trick and when that didn't work, I wasn't sure what my next step could be. I tried looking at the high side pressure switch connector to see if it was burned up and it looked ok.
Can track down if my compressor is still good and replacing my clutch is the only thing I need to do or if I need to replace my compressor? Or if there's something else that's totally unrelated that I need to check?
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Driving today I noticed a hot smell, it went away shortly after. When I got home I noticed the electric door locks no longer function. I guess this will be a test of my 3rd party warranty!
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On my Ford E450 Class"C" motor home the steering wheel has approximately a one inch play in it so when I am driving the vehicle tends to wander and constant correction to the steering is required..I tried turning the steering wheel without the power steering engaged, engine off and with it running, engine on, and the vehicle not moving.
In both situations there was the approximate one inch play, and as far as I could tell, without the wheels moving.I had a Ford F350 truck which had the same problem and my local Ford service dealer said that there was nothing wrong.Is this a condition with all Ford steering? What may be causing this and maybe a remedy for this problem?
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I have a 2" ball mount and a 2" ball from my previous vehicle. That vehicle was equipped with a 2" receiver as well.
Recently I had been pulling a few stumps in the front yard...nothing major, but this was the first time the ball mount has been used in my '06. So I noticed that there is some excessive (to me at least) space between the mount and the receiver on the truck. This causes some rattle between the two. I know there are collars out there that I can use to remove the rattle, but my question is...have others of you noticed the same? Do any of you have excessive play between the mount and receiver?
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I have a 93 f250. Have a few inches of play in the wheel. Any way I can tighting this up?
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I have a 2006 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor and it will play Cd's but not burned CD. I tried using MP3's and FLAC file types with no luck. How to play a burned CD in a Crown Vic?
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