Ford Excursion :: 2003 - Battery Light On Intermittently - Test?
Jul 13, 2012
My battery light is coming on intermittently but the truck seems to be running fine need to know how to test it to make sure that is the problem.
View 9 RepliesMy battery light is coming on intermittently but the truck seems to be running fine need to know how to test it to make sure that is the problem.
View 9 RepliesCame on intermittently other day, got it home then did not start. Charged for a bit, it started on the charger then off the charger a few times I assumed out was the alternator just replaced it. Battery light now on continually, hope I didn't destroy two batteries driving out for 20 mom after light first illuminated, they already to be only one year old. In addition to the ABS light now and the brakes feel unboosted? Hopefully fuses popped?
View 2 RepliesMy battery light keeps coming on and off, batteries were replaced by the dealer and checked out good at advanced auto parts.
2002 Limited 7.3L
I have been having an intermittent (2 times in the past 2000 miles) oil pressure gauge not reading. As I own a 6.0L I understand that this is just a pressure switch in reality and if the engine was starved of oil the HPOP system would kill the engine. The first time the oil gauge went out it was raining out. The second time was after going through a carwash and getting the underbody wash. At this time my battery light also came on for a few seconds.
Both problems seemed to go away after an engine restart. Today it is snowing lightly and my battery light came on again. I happened to be monitoring the battery voltage and FICM voltage via OBD II using Torque app. At no time while the battery light was on today did the battery voltage drop below 13.5V. The FICM was also stable at 48.5+/-.5V.
As the battery voltage read by the PCM is not actually dropping and the previous oil pressure gauge and the fact that my left blinker indicator is out I am thinking I may have electrical issues with the gauge cluster. I have never had these issues while driving in dry weather. Where do I start troubleshooting this? Also I am going out of town for the next two weeks and my girlfriend was going to use the vehicle. Is it OK for her to drive?
F250 LD 99. Battery light flashing from time to time. When it happen voltage gauge in dash go up (but not in red zone so far). All other light are blinking too but not on and of like battery warning light then like stronger - weaker. So far at Internet is said should be ground. I saw one ground at firewall close to negative post of battery but where is other ground? Can it be voltage regulator (alternator)? Did clean battery posts, didn’t work. 4,6 engine. Voltage at battery posts with engine on is 14,7 - 15,1 V. With engine off 12,3 V.
Didn't managed to check voltage when is battery light flashing as it only happen when I drive not at idle.
Alternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
Just bought my first F150. 1998 XLT 4.6l automatic. 126K miles, looks like it was mostly garage kept. All power, A/C, etc.
Picked it up this evening, drove it home after dark. About a 30 mile mostly highway speed drive. Everything went fine, no problems, no hiccups......Until I turned on my last street, about a half mile from home. The battery indicator light on the dash started blinking intermittently. I didn't notice anything else, just the red battery shaped light blinking.
What would cause this, what should I check? I don't want a big problem when I haven't even transferred the title yet!
I have a 2003 f250 super duty with a v10
i was towing a trailer up and down lots of hills and the battery light on the dash came on. there was no effect on the performance right away. as i kept driving into town i was starting to worry if i would make it.
as i pulled into the carls jr parking lot, the ABS light came on, all the gauges shut off and the truck died just as i pulled into a parking spot.
i figured it was the alternator, had it tested at AutoZone (failed twice) so i swapped it out for a lifetime warranty AutoZone one (very small town, nothing other than an AutoZone)
the truck started after being jumped but the battery light was still on. i figured that the bad alternator killed the battery. the battery was 4 years old and they usually only last 3 years in the AZ heat so i bought a new duralast gold.
the battery light was STILL on after that. the Autozone guy ran his test--- engine off- battery tested fine starting---he said something was wrong with the starter (but it cranked awesomely!) running--alternator tested fine
i just can figure out why when i drive down the road i dash light will turn on and off at random times. the truck seems to run fine. I've even been under the hood shaking the wire while i had someone watching the dash and i cant seem to make the light go on or off
Car was fine, then wouldn't start one day, after driving fine a couple of minutes before. Did this a few times previously, just tried a few times then it started again. There is no cranking when I turn the key, just a click. Lights work fine, stereo etc, no dip in power when turn key. I assumed it was starter motor so took it out and tested it - fine. Also tested battery - fine. Looked at a spark plug, fine, oil level fine. Don't see a reason the engine should have seized, as it was driving just fine, then wouldn't start suddenly, but I haven't tried manually turning the crank. I then looked at the switch on the clutch pedal that gets pressed when you push the clutch in, and allows it to start. Looked ok, but pulled the wires and bypassed it with a cable. Still nothing. Can the starter test ok but still be bad? Toyota Corolla 2003 80,000 miles ...
View 19 RepliesMy 2003 E320 (131K miles) had been intermittingly flashing a red "Battery/Alternator Stop Vehicle" light and annoying alarm sound as well as a "Malfunction Electrical Consumers Turned Off" sign. Then three days ago the "check engine" light came on; went away the next day. Then yesterday the engine completely shut down on me.
The car started the today; took it to mechanic who says it could be alternator or wiring problem. Suggested I take it to MB dealer to get diagnosis before shelling out 800 bucks on an unnecessary car part. My question: should i take it to MB dealer or just replace the part? (I am not original owner; don't know if alternator's ever been replaced).
When the battery light on my F-150 came on (about 100,00), the dealer put on a new alternator. This has now been done 3 times in the last year, and the battery light still comes on intermittently. They have no ideas about what to do.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 with the v10 4x4 with 130,000 miles problem started one day when putting on brakes the peddle felt like it pulsated a little like the abs had activated, then a couple of minutes later the light came on. Did not do again and the light went off, started doing it on and off every so often same thing. Took to private machenic he checked all the brakes and found the pins froze up on one in the back and one in the front. Took home did it again, took back he ran codes and found the vss coded changed it did it again before I got home.
Took back drove mechenic around with scanner hooked up did it again and showed code for vss. Got on here did search and could not find anything that really matched what I have happening. Seen several threads about the cops causing this but when it happens to me I dont lose my speedo or gauges only the abs light comes on and then after a while goes off. Now the light is coming on sometimes without hitting the brakes. The only other thing the mechenic said when we drove around was that the front wheel sensors one was reading a couple of mph faster than the other one untill you hit 20mph than they both read the same. going back to shop Wednesday but we dont have a clue where to go next.
Pulled the codes and erased them a few days ago for the first time and now it's about a once a day thing. I can drive for 2-3 stops and then I come out of a place, get in the truck, and when I start it up I have the light and the OD flashing.
View 14 RepliesIt's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold). I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue. Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well. Should I have the batteries load tested first?
View 14 RepliesPulled inside fuses one at a time and it seems to be #15 I hear a clicking sound coming from drivers door and have the fuse pulled for the battery saver relay when hearing it . My test light is dim then pulses when I close the driver's door?
View 6 RepliesI've been having a problem lately where I'm driving down the road and the brake light comes on and starts binging. I stop push the parking brake and release it a few times, then the light goes out and I'm on my way. Sometimes when I first release it the light doesn't extinguish and sometimes it is never on. I'm guessing there is a switch somewhere for the parking brake that isn't working so great. Is it around the pedal or somewhere in the brakes themselves? Is this a typical problem?
View 14 Replies2003 X limited 2wd 6.0L ... My cruise control was working intermittently. Could it be the buttons on the steering wheel itself? there is a cluster that I see. Does it pop off to expose the connectors/switches? Can these go bad? Can I buy new switches for the steering wheel?
View 2 RepliesRunning down the road today and the battery light came on. Went on and off intermittently as I drive home and the tuner showed 11.5v. Got home, shut it off (didn't mean to) and restarted it. Tested voltage at the batteries and was over 14. Need to take it for a drive and see if it repeats.
View 14 RepliesI found a decent deal on a 2nd gen prius. But I am going to need to repair the battery. I have already known that I can test and only repair the needed cells (since I looked into the situation when I was buying mine a year ago). Looking at the forums and saw there were a couple of chargers being recommended by the users; such as the supermate DC6 or the Hitec 44151 Quad X4.
I will likely want to charge 8 cells at time at least, as I would ideally like to get the car fixed in a couple of weeks.
So I think I have a slow battery draw. Did a test and the first result showed a 1.4/1.6 amp draw. So I started pulling fuses, and the F8 fuse (in the engine bay) dropped it to 0.4/0.5. F8 fuse is what I believe is labeled as the Radio. I have no audio upgrades. Just the stock RCD-510.
View 8 RepliesI have an 06 F350 with the 6.0 powerstroke. My battery light started coming on and will go out for a while, then come back on. Sometimes it flickers a little. I have checked/cleaned battery terminals (there was no corrosion). I have replaced the alternator. The batteries are just over a year old (10/12). I have not had any slow starting or any other symptoms other than the warning light. I am still having the same problems after replacing the alternator. I have checked with a voltage tester and it was reading 19+ when the light was off. When the warning light is on it was jumping from 12 - 15. This is an old tester so I'm not sure that it is working correctly. (not sure why I am getting the 19+). I'm going to go buy a new tester, but I was wondering if there is something else that could be causing the warning light. I know very little when it comes to electrical issues.
View 6 Replies