Ground strap from engine to firewall gets hot while starting and then stops getting hot, had batteries checked, replaced alternator, checked all battery connections, check all battery wire and connections, check ground from engine from block to fire wall , checked ground from battery to fender
2003 ford excursion,
Ok so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.
View 10 RepliesI got a new to me 1998 F150 a week or so ago but it got parked quickly when I realize the gas tank strap was broken. I took it to a dealer today and they replaced the strap.
View 3 RepliesTrying to get the a/c working on the EX. Tried to pull a vacuum and heard a leak coming from near the firewall. After a closer look I could see the larger line was rubbing against the rear head stud. That line is a hard to remove and replace. So if you have a studded 6.0, take time to look at your lines to make sure they have proper clearance.
View 1 RepliesThe hood release strap broke on my 2003 VW Passat. It fully came out from under the hood while the hood was closed. I had the car at a shop the day before, picked-up the car at night and found the part dangling above the grill the next morning (the work included work under the hood so they were the last ones to open the hood). Of course the shop knows nothing about it and said they've never heard of this happening before. The part broke at the end under the hood that connects to the release point and cannot be repaired (two eyelets broke on this plastic part). I found the part can be bought on-line for about $11 plus shipping. Obviously the first step is I have to somehow get a tool under the hood to release the hood where the strap made the release in the past. The question is how do I do that?
View 4 RepliesMy bumper is moving when my ex isn't parked on flat ground. Almost like the frame is twisting. Enough that it shifted up and cracked my grill. What could be going on? I didn't snap a pic but I'll try to get one. Get back on flat ground and it relaxes back to where it should be, flat and level.
View 6 RepliesJust bought a used, 03 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat. Having some minor electrical issues. While cleaning truck, I discovered a red wire coming into engine area on passenger side of vehicle. Wire has a built in 40amp fuse but isn't connected to anything. What this is for/ should be connected to???
View 1 Replies99 f150 4.6 4x4 ... auto.. so, driving on the interstate I had to accelerate hard to avoid hitting a crazy driver... after that I smell antifreeze... get home can't find a leak.. wait a bit and I see antifreeze leaking passengers side coming down the firewall outside... if you are laying behind the passengers front tire with your feet to the back tire.. looking up you see the catalytic converter.. behind that on the firewall a stream of antifreeze... follow the stream up and there is a piece of plastic just about were the firewall starts to go straight up from the floorboard bend.. putting my hands in that it goes inside..and its wet inside..
I can't tell what that's for really but. Am I guessing evap coils access? any rate. I don't feel any dampness inside yet.. but I do smell it in the cab stronger now. I haven't ripped up the carpet either. Im suspecting my heater core sprung a leak?? there is a good amount of fluid coming out and down the firewall outside I would say I have about a 6-foot puddle now. course I parked on a hill too. no fluid that I can tell is at all leaking off the heater core hoses.. they felt dry. Im guessing there is a drain port in that black box inside and that is where this is coming out?? no noticeable leak from the motor side.. it's all dry.. its actually going down the firewall and hitting a metal plate that carries out to a cross member on the transmission and then leaking down.. motor area is dry.
99.5 F-250 4 wheel drive. I have a rattle near the firewall in the shift mechanism. If I hold lever the noise stops. What is required to fix?
View 2 RepliesThe red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
View 1 RepliesF250 LD 99. Battery light flashing from time to time. When it happen voltage gauge in dash go up (but not in red zone so far). All other light are blinking too but not on and of like battery warning light then like stronger - weaker. So far at Internet is said should be ground. I saw one ground at firewall close to negative post of battery but where is other ground? Can it be voltage regulator (alternator)? Did clean battery posts, didn’t work. 4,6 engine. Voltage at battery posts with engine on is 14,7 - 15,1 V. With engine off 12,3 V.
Didn't managed to check voltage when is battery light flashing as it only happen when I drive not at idle.
Does that little clip that grounds the PCM case have a part number? I've been troubleshooting an "SES - but no codes that would cause it" issue, and noticed tonight that clip is not there. Even a photo would work, as I assume I could make one if I had to. It's just a piece of copper, right?
View 4 RepliesI've got an 02 Camry with the 2.4l 4, it's got a whistling sound from the engine that isn't ground-speed or engine-speed dependent, it's triggered by specific throttle positions...
Because of this, I'm 99.9% sure it's simply air whistling over the throttle plate at certain angles (my old 88 ford station wagon's throttle screamed like a banshee when the cruise was set to 78kph on level ground) but I thought I'd ask in here in case any variable cam timing system or something that can cause similar noises.
The noise has been there as long as I can remember, but it made me wonder the other day when I had my windows down (been trying to limit AC use to save fuel unless it's *really* hot) and heard it reflecting off passing traffic; Wouldn't Toyota have noticed something that loud and done something about it in an engine design?
I have no ground to glow plug solenoid, wiring is ok right up to the computer. Where I should go from there?
Its a 2001 E450 PSD. glow plugs not coming on at all.
should I be checking an engine temp sensor?
I don't have a wiring diagram so I am going in somewhat blind. ]
I found a loose blue/white ground wire in my engine compartment. Where this exactly needs to be ground ed to? Been having dash cluster light issues also.
View 2 RepliesOn the wiring diagram, it looks like the ground point 397 should be the one right next to the Kessy module. The one by the heater should be ground point 634. Does it matter or am I wrong?
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A months or so ago, after turning off my car I noticed a loud buzzing noise coming from the drivers-side lower firewall area. I cranked the car up and the buzzing stopped immediately. The problem began as intermittent but now within 2 minutes of turning my car the buzzing noise always starts, and runs my battery dead! I have taken my car to 2 local shops that have good reputations and they both began guessing and throwing parts at the problem to no avail my last resort is a dealership but it is 100 miles away and I'm not sure if they would do any better. I feel like this is something simple that an expert should have no problem diagnosing.
I have been searching around the internet and never seem to find someone with the exact same problem - until today!
[URL]
I've had a used 2007 V6 Camry for about six months now.
I recently started noticing a quiet set of rapid clicks/clacks sound coming from engine compartment/firewall area more or less on driver side. I'm not sure if it was there all along or if I just began noticing it.
It occurs after starting the car, putting it in drive and as soon as I let off the brakes and begin rolling. It might only happen going forward. I will have to notice if it does it in reverse.
It happens rapidly and stops and I don't hear it again until I repeat the steps above after the car has sat a while. I don't believe it will do it again, if say, after doing it once I stop, put it into park and then back into drive and go.
I don't believe it's the CV joints. It does it once and stops and is not related to movement of the steering wheel. It almost reminds me of a relay switching something.
I'll also add that I had a 1995 Prizm and 2000 Corolla that did the same thing. Both were manual transmissions. The click they made was much louder though their cabins were not sealed as well as the Camry. The clicks would happen only after the car had sat a while as soon as the car first started rolling and then would stop. Could it be the same thing in all three cars?
2003 Ford excursion 7.3L powerstroke eddie bauer edition, vehicle wont start unless the block heater has been plugged in and the block is good and hot. This is its only symptom. It is throwing the following codes when i try to start it. Mind you it is 70 degrees so it shouldnt have to be plugged in to start
P0470 : Exhaust Pressure Sensor. P1000 : OBD System readiness test not complete
My trusty 2000 v10 has begun to give us starting troubles. The symptoms are:
1) Most times it does start normally and runs great.
2) When it won't start - Engine does not turn over
3) Interior lights and other electrics work, battery reads 13v
4) There is a click from the relay when the key is turned
5) Wires look good, no corrosion found in fuse/relay boxes
6) No indication of funny stuff via dash board lights
7) I do not have a code reader
My resolution the past two times has been to verify volts and connections, then wiggle all fuses and relays, wiggle the shifter in the car, then it started.
I have checked the basics and have become suspicious of sensors after running the Pinpoint Test A listed in another post by ~Christina. My forum research indicated that other people had problems with:
- transmission range sensor
- crankshaft sensor.
- cam sensor
So how does one go about finding the location of and testing these? Are there other sensors to investigate?
I'm trying to figure out a small leak on my mothers' Santa Fe. Recently I smelled coolant after my mother had gone for a long drive. I checked the Radiator and overflow... need maybe 1 qt of coolant.
Now I'm trying to find the cause of the missing coolant ! While it's running, I see no leak. Shut it off and it starts to drip from a small plastic tube on the firewall inside the engine bay area (on the passenger side). It drips down onto a rubber boot covering some steering stuff. Is this from the heater core?